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The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-09 8:58 PM (#571409)
Subject: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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I've always been resisting the temptation to throw $10K for paint for my car. It's not worth it. Nice car but $10K into it would return about 10 cents on the dollar. So I have been rattle-canning the dark blue (using a 90's Dodge Neon Intense blue pearl) Duplicolor paint. The results are mixed but overall I am happy. Much better than when I got the car after 25 years under a polypropylene tarp.

The problem until recently (late August, early September) was getting a match on the light blue "Wedgewood". I was finally able to get a good match to a Mack truck light blue with adjustments to less green to match actual scans of my front passenger door. This good scan was done locally at Lordco in Burnaby (for those that know that store). I bought one initial can to try and when I found out it matched very well, I went back and bought a batch of 6 cans with this "custom" blend.

With the paint in hand, I painted the right rear quarter, the right rear passenger door, the front passenger door and the front fender. Mostly no issues until one day I tried too hard with the second coat and got some alligatoring on the top of the right fender. After waiting a couple of days, I sanded that out with 400 and the 800 grit. Came out fine. Then I did another coat. Worked great(ish).

Then I did the left rear quarter. Turned out okay. Then the weather turned cooler.

Lately, I've been working on the light blue parts of the hood and the driver's door and front fender during the past week or so. I did driver's door in the garage, heating it up with my little 1500 W quartz space heater (sitting on a 5 gal plastic pail) on reciprocating mode (blowing warm air left, center, and right ) for an hour or so and then applying the paint. Turned out okay. Did one coat using a previous "match" paint from Concept Finishes and then my new "proper" (not as green) Lordco blue as the second coat (with a bit of spot putty and 400 grit between coats). It will be okay when I eventually wet sand it as per a friends suggestions.

I did something similar for the front part of the hood, i.e. spot putty, 1K primer, the heater and the the Concept Finishes blue for the first coat. I was doing good. Then on Thursday or Friday last week (which ever was the "warm" day) I moved the car outside and painted the light blue bits on the side and front the hood with the Lordco blue on the street. It wasn't bad but there were some small glitches that I was going to have to fix.

So Saturday, I got the car out again and while my plan was to just sand and wipe on the street and paint in the garage (because of the wind), I got carried away and thinking that it was warm enough, I tried another coat on the front and sides of the hood. Disaster. Well not good. Where before I had a great finish except for the odd dust spec (or small fly), I now have patches of alligatoring (!!!) again. Merde. So I stopped and put the car into the garage and set up the heater on the front fender. I left it for an hour to warm up the fender and then sprayed the left front fender. I then set the heater back up to dry that coat. At last check, the fender seems to be good(ish).

Last time the alligatoring occurred when I painted a second coat over a first coat that wasn't very old. This time, it was over a first coat that was a couple of days old but on cold(ish) metal.

Would you believe it? Another sunny day today (Tuesday the 9th) (supposedly 18 C here) so I had to try again. Sanded off the latest alligator patches with 400 grit and then went over the light blue hood areas with 800 grit. Wiped it all down and got out a new can of matched paint to try again. Guess what? Happended again (but maybe in different areas). I think the problem is related to me trying too hard and applying too much paint and the solvents in the paint eating into the previous layer. Or something. I think it was warm enough. I know I should give up but I see another warm day coming so I will probably try one more time on the few remaining bad patches.

Remember that a real professional paint job is $6000 to $10000 plus locally so whatever I have done, spending a few hundreds on paint, even if not 100% perfect is financially better (for me). I am not trying to win any prizes, just make my car better than when I found it.

The most recent photos, including the Before (front hood area):

(Question: Why is it, without the front grill, I am seeing a 1950 or 1951 Ford??)




Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-10 12:45 AM




(DaveFs56DodgeRightFrontFenderResprayAfterFix.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_Before.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterOneRoundOfSpotPuttyAndPrimerGoingForTheSecondRoundOfSpotPutty.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterMoreSandingAndPrimerAndTwoCoatsOfLightBlueConceptAndLordcoShouldHaveStoppedThere.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_1.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_2.jpg)



(WeatherOct10to16_2018.jpg)



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Attachments DaveFs56DodgeRightFrontFenderResprayAfterFix.jpg (217KB - 308 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_Before.jpg (135KB - 302 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterOneRoundOfSpotPuttyAndPrimerGoingForTheSecondRoundOfSpotPutty.jpg (105KB - 308 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterMoreSandingAndPrimerAndTwoCoatsOfLightBlueConceptAndLordcoShouldHaveStoppedThere.jpg (220KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_1.jpg (225KB - 291 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_2.jpg (238KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments WeatherOct10to16_2018.jpg (51KB - 291 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-10-10 10:01 AM (#571424 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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yeah this weather is nutso crazy. its about to end, it will let me get my car painted so I can at least assemble it over the winter and get it running. I am painting the trunk, window and door jams today.

Doing your own paint job is not insanely hard. I have painted multiple cars in my garage/drive way. It will take more work.

I am running 110% to get this thing ready to work on in the winter... im sanding primer like nuts and getting them finished up. It the last warm day for me. I even clear coated/based in my garage. I can single stage outside even. (stupid bugs die and get sanded right out). Youll need to wet sand and buff the entire surface and potentially do some fixes but I can do a pro job. I did this paint job in my garage, 3 coats base coat, 5 coats of clear.



Edited by mikes2nd 2018-10-10 10:12 AM




(stealth 215.jpg)



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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2018-10-10 1:36 PM (#571433 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Tip to Dave : Roll the paint on. It's easier, less messy, and can be done inside with a minimal of masking.
Paint needs to be able to settle down before it hardens. So you should use paint that still cures fairly quick, but not take a full day, because the longer it stays tacky, the more dust can embed.
Spraypaint usually hardens too quickly, unless all the stars are alined.

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FIN_NV
Posted 2018-10-10 2:03 PM (#571435 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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You get what you pay for!
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-10 2:21 PM (#571436 - in reply to #571435)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Mike: Thanks for your comments. I don't even have a driveway, just my 12 x 20 jammed full 1942 garage on an alley and the street beside the house (corner lot). So I can only do so much.

BigBlockMopar - 2018-10-10 1:36 PM

Tip to Dave : Roll the paint on. It's easier, less messy, and can be done inside with a minimal of masking.
Paint needs to be able to settle down before it hardens. So you should use paint that still cures fairly quick, but not take a full day, because the longer it stays tacky, the more dust can embed.
Spraypaint usually hardens too quickly, unless all the stars are aligned.


Hey, my very first plan back in the fall of 2016 was to foam roller my car with Tremclad paints, at least to get the surface sealed and surface rust ( from being stored under a polypropylene tarp) stopped. Then I discovered that the Duplicolor paints I was going to use (eventually) eats Tremclad for lunch (nasty crazing). So that eneded that idea.

Then at one point, I was going to try rolling on Dulux Marine single stage Polyurethane paint - according to the Youtube videos, it olls on good and seems to dry nice and flat (no orange peel). I bougth a couple of quarts (one light blue, one darker blue) but they weren't close enough and they can't tint them so that ended that.

If I was to roll any of these latest matched paints, I can't buy them as a quart (or whatever) of single stage. I would have to buy them as a three part thing (one of which is catalyst) and mix them at home and either spray or roll them on. I am not brave enough to get the mixture right consistently. Hence the pre-mixed spray cans (and the consequences).


FIN_NV - 2018-10-10 2:03 PM
You get what you pay for!


Thanks. I know that full well. I am only trying to get my car to look better and good enough to get "Collector" plates, not enter a concours. If it was a 2 dr hardtop, I might want to spend the bucks on a professional paint job but as a 4 dr sedan, the pay back is minimal. So, yup, I will get what I paid for, i.e. "Better than when I bought the car".



Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-10 2:24 PM
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2018-10-10 3:01 PM (#571439 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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You might want to look into vinylwrapping your car.
Not as cheap as DIY-paint, but still cheaper than (pro) spraypainting.

I work in a signshop and the 'soft' wrapping vinyl kinds come by every so often. While I do say you have to practice (quite) a bit to get the vinyl to lay as you want it do, especially on curved material, but once done, the appearance is very good usually.
The higher end wrap-vinyls can be tailored with a hotair gun. Any sharp creases and distorted areas in the material can be restored to be smooth as silk again with it.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-10-10 8:00 PM (#571459 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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I bet I could roll paint on, then sand and buff it out to a flawless paint job Ton of work but if it went on thick enough you wouldn't notice.

All the true professional paint jobs are sanded and buffed to perfection.
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1960fury
Posted 2018-10-10 8:15 PM (#571465 - in reply to #571459)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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mikes2nd - 2018-10-10 8:00 PM

I bet I could roll paint on, then sand and buff it out to a flawless paint job Ton of work but if it went on thick enough you wouldn't notice.

All the true professional paint jobs are sanded and buffed to perfection.


I thought the same thing and I bet it could be, properly sanded and polished, smoother than a regular paint job, that mostly has a water-like surface.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-10 11:43 PM (#571473 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Rattle cans of paint just aren't worth doing. At least not for any area with lots of sunlight. Here in S. Cal, a rattle can paint job will last 1 year before it oxidizes and looks worse than when you started. The best thing you can do, in my opinion, is to fully prep your car for paint yourself, prime it with rattle cans to make sure it has an even color. Sand the primer down smooth, and take it in to a 1-day paint or Earl Shieb's. Pay for the quality of paint that you can afford and have them spray it. It will look far better than a rattle can job, last a lot longer, and be the same amount of work. It should only cost you about $800 for a decent quality paint. Well worth it in the end so you aren't doing the same thing next year, and the next year ....
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-11 12:07 AM (#571478 - in reply to #571473)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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I'm in the Vancouver BC Canada area so no baking sun here.

There are no Earl Shieb's. There is/was one Maaco but the reputation was worse than the worst, i.e. stay away.

I keep fishing for a low cost painter locally with car guys I meet but so far, nobody has taken the bait. I only get the "Paint jobs cost $10K" answers.

So I'm doing what I'm doing. Trust me it's going to better than what I started with.

I've still got some mechanical things to sort, e.g. front disc brakes, etc. before I commit big bucks to paint.

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57plybel
Posted 2018-10-11 4:22 AM (#571486 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: RE: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Watch out for the spot putty Dave, some brands are nitrocellulose which is really old technology ( great for guitars).... if you can find a high quality spot putty or just keep priming and blocking, you can avoid the reactions and achieve a reasonable finish. I did this decades ago as a kid, used all sorts of high end two pack products since but still dabble in spray bombs!!

 

Good luck and keep at it....Colin

 

 

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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-16 9:13 PM (#571823 - in reply to #571486)
Subject: RE: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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UPDATE:

On Saturday Oct. 13th, I wrote to a friend and said:

" Well that sunny day I mentioned arrived today. I did *some* sanding (and filling) of the glitches yesterday but I resisted trying to paint, waiting for a real nice day. There might be more coming but I decided that today was good enough. I sanded the hood light blue again today with 400 and 800 and the odd touch of 220 (followed by 400) and then a good wipe down. I shook the hell out of my paint can (previously started the other day) and then primed it by spraying horizontally onto my portable masking shield, aka one of my many used cereal boxes that I have been using for this paint project. With paint up to the nozzle I lightly (emphasis on *lightly*) sprayed the worst areas. After waiting a few minutes, I lightly sprayed the side bits on both sides and then the front. Then I repeated the process, trying to add paint but not so much that there was enough solvent (reducer) in the paint to attack the layer beneath. I think I did that three times where none of the coats actually got to more than just tacky. Seems to have worked well. There is one small wrinkled bit but it is very small and I am sure that I can sand it and polish it out next spring."

And then today (Tuesday, Oct. 16th):

"Ha. Passed on painting Monday trying to let the light blue cure a bit but today was too too good to pass up. Warm (19C) and almost no wind. Got the car out to warm it up in the sun. Sanded off the last of the spot putty on a couple of spots in the dark blue bit of the hood. Masked with Yellow frog tape on the light blue at the margin. Pressing hard on it only for the first 1/4" or so. Then newspaper with regular green masking tape onto the yellow tape, again, pressing hard only on the first 1/4" or so of the yellow tape. Sprayed the spot putty area with 1K grey high build primer and then I had lunch. After lunch I lightly sanded the primered areas and then the entire dark blue of the hood (with 400). Wiped it down and then sprayed the edges with dark blue, starting with a light coat and building up. Let that sit for maybe 10 minutes and then went at entire hood, starting in the middle and making long strokes down the hood, overlapping the coverage moving towards the outer edge. Two cans. One per side. Then after letting that sit for an hour or so, I started the engine to warm the hood for a bit. Then I sanded with a new piece of 400 and wiped it down. Got another new can out and started in the middle again. Long overlapping strokes. Got both sides done with the one can until the can started to fail (sputter).

Let it sit for 30 to 45 minutes while I did something else and then removed the newspaper and the masking tape. The green tape came off the yellow tape just fine and surprise surprise, the yellow came off the light blue with not one pull. Yippee.

The hood still isn't perfect but I think that there is enough on there now to do a wet sanding and polish in the spring.

And that was my day"



Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-16 9:15 PM
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-10-16 9:35 PM (#571828 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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yeah I forgot lots of guys have done this, lay it on thick sand it flat...

https://www.cartalk.com/blogs/craig-fitzgerald/how-paint-car-bucket-...
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CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Posted 2018-10-17 2:14 PM (#571865 - in reply to #571478)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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56D500boy - 2018-10-11 12:07 AM

I'm in the Vancouver BC Canada area so no baking sun here.




HEY!!!
I'm in Vancouver BC.....
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-17 3:12 PM (#571870 - in reply to #571865)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-10-17 2:14 PM
HEY!!!
I'm in Vancouver BC.....


Duuuude. (In your favorite "Stoner" voice)

Check your private messages

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Stroller
Posted 2018-10-20 11:46 AM (#572039 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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Heck I once ratteled canned a truck a friend of mine owned. Had a case of battle ship grey and cold beer in the cooler. We masked it with fender covers and shop rags. I did not recomened polishing any time soon. Then another time I got a 5 gallon bucket of exterior black house paint for $2.00.00. I painted my '70 dodge long wheel base step side with a swish broom and wash tub full of paint. It had a really good 50 foot look. Grooves from the broom gave the paint some funky light characteristics. But if you want to use rattle cans hit a piaint shop and get them to put the paint in rattle cans. That way at least it is automotive paint. I painted the tank, side covers and tail piece of '78 Suzuki with Acrylic Laquer. I don't think I could ever afford to have a car painted professionally with that stuff.
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-26 8:06 PM (#572439 - in reply to #571870)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Now with the top of the hood painted with three more cans of Duplicolor (last week) and the hood trim re-installed (Weds and today (Friday)):





Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-26 8:08 PM
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56D500boy
Posted 2019-08-24 6:53 PM (#586521 - in reply to #572439)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Not quite a year later, the story continues.

I had the left rear door professional fixed (dints removed - one I inflicted, two other before me - none could be handled by the dint doctor).

After I got the car back from the shop (1.5 day job), I removed the door handle (should have done that before) and spot puttied a few little glitches. When they were dry, I sanded with 200 and 400 sprayed them with a high build primer. When that was dry (the next day), I sanded the door with 400 and 800 and then began the process of painting the upper and lower bits, masking at the mid-door trim line. Did the dark blue first, several coats. When it was dry and cured a bit, I masked that area off and painted the lower door in the lighter blue. Turned out good.

A little lighter blue snuck under my "masking" (tape and newspaper) and deposited some over spray. I was not happy (because I had done a good job on the upper dark blue) but after I let it sit a day or so, I was able to use a clay bar to remove it. So disaster averted.

The other night, before going to an unofficial car show, I rinsed the car down and towelled it off with a micro-fibre cloth. Looked pretty good. People started asking why I didn't have "Collector's Plates"? I told them the paint wasn't good enough (because my trunk painting was the cr@p on the upper bit). (The front hood is much better.)

Today, I decided to try polishing the top of the trunk (the worst area on the car). I only did half of the top of the trunk by hand (with Meguires No.4 Heavy cutting compound, a bit of 2000 wet and dry (wet) and some Meguires No. 9 Swirl remover). I left the other half for comparison. I am happy with the results so far, knowing that I can get out my machine polisher and improve things more.

I did a much better paint job on the door tops and even the hood (finally figured out how to get a better result by that point) so I will be able to get them much shinier than they are with probably very little effort.

Some photos:



Edited by 56D500boy 2019-08-24 7:00 PM




(DaveFsLeftRearDoorAfterBeingAtTheBodyShop.jpg)



(DaveFs56CRD500Sedan_Aug22_2019_1_RealSmall.jpg)



(DaveFs56CRD500Sedan_Aug22_2019_2_realSmall.jpg)



(FirstTryWithMequiresNo4HeavyCutAndNo9SwirlRemovalOnTrunk_1.jpg)



(FirstTryWithMequiresNo4HeavyCutAndNo9SwirlRemovalOnTrunk_2.jpg)



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Attachments DaveFsLeftRearDoorAfterBeingAtTheBodyShop.jpg (95KB - 244 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56CRD500Sedan_Aug22_2019_1_RealSmall.jpg (246KB - 256 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56CRD500Sedan_Aug22_2019_2_realSmall.jpg (244KB - 252 downloads)
Attachments FirstTryWithMequiresNo4HeavyCutAndNo9SwirlRemovalOnTrunk_1.jpg (148KB - 248 downloads)
Attachments FirstTryWithMequiresNo4HeavyCutAndNo9SwirlRemovalOnTrunk_2.jpg (193KB - 239 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2019-08-24 8:12 PM (#586523 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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wet sand and buff it?
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56D500boy
Posted 2019-08-24 11:37 PM (#586527 - in reply to #586523)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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mikes2nd - 2019-08-24 5:12 PM
wet sand and buff it?


Yup. As I suggested:

56D500boy - 2019-08-24 3:53 PM

Today, I decided to try polishing the top of the trunk (the worst area on the car). I only did half of the top of the trunk by hand (with Meguires No.4 Heavy cutting compound, a bit of 2000 wet and dry (wet) and some Meguires No. 9 Swirl remover). I left the other half for comparison. I am happy with the results so far, knowing that I can get out my machine polisher and improve things more.


I carried on to the other half of the top of the trunk after I posted the above. Used some 1000 grit Wet/Dry (wet) and then No.4 with a 10" Simoniz(tm) random orbital and then No. 9. Then 2000, repeat again and again. Some machine. Some hand. No. 9 definitely provides shine. Buffed with the 10" and a microfibre bonnet. And by hand.

Photo tomorrow. (Dark now).



Edited by 56D500boy 2019-08-25 2:18 AM
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-09-20 9:36 PM (#615231 - in reply to #586527)
Subject: Another case of unintentional "Crinkle" paint - I thought I had got past that



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As discussed above, early in my attempts to rattle can my 56 Dodge (because I don't think that a $10K to $15K paint job is money well spent on my car), I encountered issue with paint crinkling. Both with the DupliColor Intense Blue (Dodge Neon) paint and the light blue paint I had made for (matched to) my car. Initially I freaked out when I created a Crinkle but eventually I learned to a) not apply too heavy a coat and b) wait for the crinkled paint to dry (enough to sand) and then sand the crinkle(s) out and go again (maybe two days later). Eventually, I got the car fully painted (except for the roof).

A couple of weeks ago, I finally painted the roof of the car with DupliColor Chrysler Stone White (total of 8 cans (one can per quadrant, two coats)). I tried to follow my "not too heavy Dave" mantra and somehow I succeeded (in my opinion) without any crinkling. I had sanded the entire roof and wiped it with a moist micro fibre cloth and let that dry well before I painted. No solvent wipe downs. Sanded between coats. No crinkling.

Result:





REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=76336&...

Today, I started to repaint the dark blue on my driver's door and, in doing so, I removed the piece of stainless trim that extends from the belt moulding on the door to the trim on the hood. I could see that there was a bit of surface rust on the upper leading edge of where I removed the trim, as shown in this photo:



So I sanded the ridgeline between the OE factory paint and the Intense Blue that I had applied some years ago and then added some red spot putty to the area in question. After the spot putty dried, I sanded the area with 220, 400, and 600 grit and wiped it down with a dry blue shop towel.

Then I added some paint as a base coat over the spot putty. I was sure that I didn't add to much paint and then moved on to other areas of the door that I had spot puttied, sanded and wiped down and added new paint to those areas. When I looked back at the area that I first painted, I couldn't really believe it: Crinkle City. Merde.

So I will let it dry overnight and sand it out tomorrow and then try again. (I will be using a new can of Intense blue and I will be sanding the entire area with 400 and 600 grit wet and dry (dry)). I thought I had moved beyond the Crinkles but apparently not.

Today (fortunately, most, but not all of this mistake will be under the stainless trim when I add it back):



Edited by 56D500boy 2021-09-21 2:51 AM




(56DodgeWithIntenseBlueCrinklePaint_LOL.jpg)



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Attachments 56DodgeWithIntenseBlueCrinklePaint_LOL.jpg (117KB - 165 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-09-21 2:37 AM (#615236 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Crinkles happen because of incompatibility of the two substances. It can happen even with the same substance, between 2 different layers. The cure to avoid this is to let if fully cure first. Some materials require a week in the sun before they are really fully dry.
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60 dart
Posted 2021-09-21 4:19 AM (#615237 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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was the putty nitra-stan --------------------------------------later
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ronbo97
Posted 2021-09-21 9:38 AM (#615240 - in reply to #615237)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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If you head over to YouTube, a guy named Weird Beard did an 18 part series on body work and painting a 59 Dodge Coronet. He works out of his garage and has no fancy spray booths. But he knows his stuff and is very good at explaining things. You can learn a lot by watching him work.

For now, here's a link to the chapter on painting the Dodge. But I recommend starting with the first episode and working your way thru.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygB3aRoNAD4&t=4s

Ron

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56D500boy
Posted 2021-09-21 12:17 PM (#615241 - in reply to #615240)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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ronbo97 - 2021-09-21 6:38 AM If you head over to YouTube, a guy named Weird Beard did an 18 part series on body work and painting a 59 Dodge Coronet. He works out of his garage and has no fancy spray booths.


Thanks Ron I am sure that I will learn something watching at least that one painting video.

However, a guy in a 40' x 40' barn with a good compressor and a spray gun does not compare very well to my situation with a cramped 12' x 20' garage and rattle cans.

That said, I can see that I will eventually (sooner than later) need to remove my hood and strip it down to bare metal and redo it at some point. It looks so easy in Weird Beard's video, him spraying his hood (and trunk) sitting on waist-high stands.

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Powerflite
Posted 2021-09-21 2:42 PM (#615247 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Crinkles happen because of incompatibility of the two substances. It can happen even with the same substance, between 2 different layers. The cure to avoid this is to let if fully cure first. Some materials require a week in the sun before they are really fully dry.
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57burb
Posted 2021-09-21 4:20 PM (#615253 - in reply to #615241)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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That's called 'lifting.' Paint lifts for a couple of reasons.

First, there may be contamination; things like fingerprints, grease, spray lube, etc. Be sure to use a good naptha-based wax and grease remover before laying any paint. That "soy" s**t at the parts store is no good.

Second, it could be an incompatible type of paint underneath what you just sprayed, or your new paint is so aggressive and/or laid on so thick that the solvents in it have disrupted whatever is below. Most people don't realize that paint in spray cans is incredibly harsh! The amount and type of solvents in spray paint are MUCH more aggressive than typical automotive paint reducers. Paint in a can is expected to bond to whatever dirty, nasty, unprepared crap that people spray it on. You can lay that stuff on as thick as you want over bare metal, but if you're spraying on top of existing material, take it easy. Several moderate coats with ample flash time is better than one thick one.
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-09-22 9:55 PM (#615288 - in reply to #615253)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Thanks for your comments and hints guys. I think it's going to be fine. I sanded out the "Crinkle", applied some spot putty, let it dry and then sanded that out and started adding light coats of paint.

The painting went on for a couple of days.

Today I sanded the entire dark blue portion of the door, fender and cowl (partial) with 400 grit and then 600 grit (both dry). Wiped the areas down and then added at least three light coats. I had to remind myself to a) be light and b) quit while I was ahead. No crinkles (YAY) and no runs (YAY*2).

I will let the area cure for awhile before I wet sand with 600, 800, 1000 and maybe 1200 (which I need to buy). Then Meguires No. 9 and No. 4.



(56DodgeDriversDoorRepaintAndCrinkleCorrection_1.jpg)



(56DodgeDriversDoorRepaintAndCrinkleCorrection_2.jpg)



(56DodgeDriversDoorRepaintAndCrinkleCorrection_3.jpg)



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Attachments 56DodgeDriversDoorRepaintAndCrinkleCorrection_1.jpg (187KB - 156 downloads)
Attachments 56DodgeDriversDoorRepaintAndCrinkleCorrection_2.jpg (142KB - 150 downloads)
Attachments 56DodgeDriversDoorRepaintAndCrinkleCorrection_3.jpg (150KB - 154 downloads)
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imopar380
Posted 2021-09-23 6:06 PM (#615305 - in reply to #615288)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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I've never had the gumption to do any exterior body panels with spray cans, but I've done my whole engine compartment
in my 1960 Saratoga with spray cans, (turquoise) mixed at a body shop supply, and now we've done on Islander_62's 1960 New Yorker
(petal pink) engine compartment. I've been very pleased with the results, but it's not metallic paint, which is obviously more of a challenge.



Edited by imopar380 2021-09-23 6:22 PM




(engine1.jpg)



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(engine4.jpg)



(engine5.jpg)



(engine6.jpg)



(engine7.jpg)



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Attachments engine5.jpg (166KB - 144 downloads)
Attachments engine6.jpg (211KB - 142 downloads)
Attachments engine7.jpg (153KB - 143 downloads)
Attachments engine8.jpg (178KB - 141 downloads)
Attachments engine9.jpg (199KB - 144 downloads)
Attachments engine10.jpg (221KB - 152 downloads)
Attachments engine11.jpg (184KB - 138 downloads)
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-09-24 6:38 PM (#615330 - in reply to #615305)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Good job, Ian. I trust Chris is paying you well (LOL )

Back on my job, I borrowed a neighbours 8" variable speed polisher and bought the appropriate foam pad (3M 05273) and polishing compound (3M 36060) (that is what he uses).

I took his advice and wet sanded with only 1500 grit (had to buy some this AM) and then started with the polisher and 3M compound. Gave it a couple of goes, with some minor area sanding with the 1500 in between. It has worked really well and now these panels are the best lookers on the car. On that basis, I'm quitting (I am not looking for perfection, just "better") and moving on to another panel. I don't want the paint to be perfect and this area is now approaching "perfection" = time to quit

The 3M 05273 8" foam pad (Velcro on the back) (2 in a package):



The results (looks better in person - except for one small spot that stood up and got 1500'd real good - I will do a minor paint repair for that):



Edited by 56D500boy 2021-09-24 11:45 PM




(56DodgeDriversDoorRepaint1500GritW&DPlus3M36060RubbingCompound_1.jpg)



(56DodgeDriversDoorRepaint1500GritW&DPlus3M36060RubbingCompound_2.jpg)



(56DodgeDriversDoorRepaint1500GritW&DPlus3M36060RubbingCompound_3.jpg)



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Attachments 56DodgeDriversDoorRepaint1500GritW&DPlus3M36060RubbingCompound_1.jpg (126KB - 146 downloads)
Attachments 56DodgeDriversDoorRepaint1500GritW&DPlus3M36060RubbingCompound_2.jpg (146KB - 145 downloads)
Attachments 56DodgeDriversDoorRepaint1500GritW&DPlus3M36060RubbingCompound_3.jpg (137KB - 140 downloads)
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imopar380
Posted 2021-09-24 10:25 PM (#615333 - in reply to #615330)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Wow, Dave that is indeed looking good!
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-10-08 9:40 PM (#615686 - in reply to #615333)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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imopar380 - 2021-09-24 7:25 PM
Wow, Dave that is indeed looking good!


Maybe too good. I need to control myself. I now own the 06068 blue top machine polish (ultrafine swirl remover) that can make that shine even "better" (show up the imperfections even more )

Somebody stop me!!





Edited by 56D500boy 2021-10-09 2:21 AM




(3m-polishing-kit496.jpg)



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Attachments 3m-polishing-kit496.jpg (45KB - 138 downloads)
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-10-09 9:47 PM (#615728 - in reply to #615686)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Of course, "armed" with my new found "knowledge" and "skills" (LOL) and now the 3M 06068 Ultrafine machine polish, I've tackled the white on the car roof and pale blue on the driver's door and left front fender, starting with 1500 wet and dry (wet) (sometimes a bit of 1000 wet and dry (wet), followed by the 06060 3M rubbing compound and/or the 06068 Ultrafine. In general, the results are good but not perfect. (I don't know why I would even try for perfect, I will never get it).

What I have learned in the past couple of days (in the garage with the 3000 W over head heater on for a few hours):

1. Don't wear anything thing with any metal or hard plastic that could scratch/chip the paint. I had my garage jacket on when doing the roof and at one point, I reached out with the polisher (to get to the more than mid-point in the roof). Apparently one of the snaps on the jacket scratched/chipped some of the "new" (6 weeks or so old) white paint. Naturally, I thought that I could fix it by dropping paint into the divot, letting it dry and sanding it flat and then polishing the result. That might have worked if I hadn't sanded through the new paint in a small area beside the divot. This necessitated respraying that area (about 4" x 4") and trying again. It's coming, but it would have been way easier if I just hadn't worn that jacket and caused the scratch. Live and Learn.

2. I had sprayed most of the light blue in Oct. 2018 so it should be well cured. (It is). I had always assumed that if I got enough paint on, I would be able to sand and polish out any perfections that might have occurred. For the most part that is true but there are exceptions:

i) some imperfections (deep orange peel) are really too deep to sand out easily

ii) sanding too aggressively to remove the imperfections, even with 1500 (and certainly 1000), can (and did) result in burning through the "new" (3 year old paint), exposing the old paint (similar but not exactly the same light blue). I might have to respray a small area (2" x 3") to correct that one.

iii) sanding out some "dust" spots might work or might not work. Sometimes, the "dust" is removed but it leaves a divot that might need attention (a drop of paint and resanding) to look good. I am in the process on that one in two areas of the front fender.

3. I need to use the 06060 Rubbing compound sparingly because it is aggressive (duh!). The 06068 Ultrafine machine polish is much safer and more controllable (especially when applied and removed by hand).

Bottomline: I have much more respect for automobile painters and their skills.

That said, I still don't want an expensive paint job because I would just be worried about it all the time when I have the car out. This way, I can still correct any issues that occur using what I have learned and the paint and supplies that I have acquired.

Or so I think

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dels56
Posted 2021-10-12 8:45 PM (#615809 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


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Hi Dave, you have been working hard since I was at your place. Looking Good. What do you charge for a complete paint job?

Del S
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-10-12 9:15 PM (#615811 - in reply to #615809)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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dels56 - 2021-10-12 5:45 PM
Hi Dave, you have been working hard since I was at your place. Looking Good. What do you charge for a complete paint job?
Del S


LOL. As if.

Thanks Del.

If I had a garage the size of your's or one of my neighbours (who I found out yesterday is hiding a rodded 51 Chevy 1/2 ton that he garage-painted and a 55 Chevy 2dr post, I might
a) try painting mine with a compressor etc.
b) take on a different neighbour's 82 VW truck (I owe him for all the welding he has done for me)

But nothing else. (I know you were just joking)

As for my paint, I am finding that the wet sanding and polishing is making me hypercritical of my own work and "making" me trying to correct small flaws. I have to learn to resist that temptation and just wet sand (1500 and 2000) and polish (the Ultrafine machine polish) and stop there. STOP Dave STOP!!

My mantra was (and still is, when I remember): "Better not perfect"



Edited by 56D500boy 2021-10-12 11:11 PM
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56D500boy
Posted 2022-04-19 2:42 AM (#620956 - in reply to #615288)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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After being off for months and me driving the car with no driver's door trim or window (on dry sunny days), I finally got around to reinstalling the trim. There were some issues with the clips I was using (I will do a separate post on that).

The trim at the bottom of the driver's door window is a NOS piece that I picked up by mistake during Covid (I thought it was the wider middle piece) but it is very nice so I installed it. That lead to me cleaning and polishing the next piece forward of that, the one that sits on the cowl and matches up with the hood trim. It turned out very nice.

Anyway, this is progress.



Edited by 56D500boy 2022-04-19 3:03 AM




(56DodgeCustomRoyalFinallyWithDoorTrimBackOn.jpg)



(56DodgeCustomRoyalFinallyWithDoorTrimBackOn_2.jpg)



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Attachments 56DodgeCustomRoyalFinallyWithDoorTrimBackOn.jpg (134KB - 101 downloads)
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Mopar1
Posted 2022-04-19 2:30 PM (#620962 - in reply to #572039)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Stroller - 2018-10-20 10:46 AM

. But if you want to use rattle cans hit a piaint shop and get them to put the paint in rattle cans. That way at least it is automotive paint.
Didn't know that could be done. My understanding is regular rattle can paint doesn't have the hardener that car paint has so it will always be soft compared to real car paint.
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JedRhule
Posted 2022-04-25 10:17 PM (#621109 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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In 1963, I painted my first car, 1951 Chevy coupe, with an attachment on the output of a 'sausage' type vacuum cleaner.
From 100 feet away, it looked like a $100 paint job.
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57desoto
Posted 2022-04-26 6:00 AM (#621110 - in reply to #621109)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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JedRhule, I did the same thing -- first car painted was a 1964 (I think) Build Electra 225, with vacuum cleaner exhaust. Finish came out like 80-grit sandpaper! That was a long time ago...
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wizard
Posted 2022-04-26 11:20 AM (#621116 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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Been there, done that 63 Chevy looked really nice at a distance
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Powerflite
Posted 2022-04-26 11:54 AM (#621119 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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I've found that if you are painting a panel, fender, or hood etc. that you want to match to really old paint, that using cheap spray paint works best. Spray it on, let it fully dry, and sand it down a little with 600 grit. Use a color that is a little darker, and as the sun bakes it in, it'll match the old paint on the car really well. That's really the only reason for painting with a spray can on parts that will see UV. But my situation is probably worse than most people's because a spray can job will only last 1-2 years before it's fully oxidized by the sun down here.
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56D500boy
Posted 2022-05-29 9:25 PM (#621793 - in reply to #615811)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



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56D500boy - 2021-10-12 6:15 PM
As for my paint, I am finding that the wet sanding and polishing is making me hypercritical of my own work and "making" me trying to correct small flaws. I have to learn to resist that temptation and just wet sand (1500 and 2000) and polish (the Ultrafine machine polish) and stop there. STOP Dave STOP!!
My mantra was (and still is, when I remember): "Better not perfect"


Well guess what? I am finding it really difficult to STOP trying to make things perfect (when I know that they are not and will never be).

I wet sanded and polished the passenger side dark area of the hood yesterday and, in doing so, I found a couple of spots that I just HAD TO fix. Same with a spot on the rear fender (upper) and part of the trunk. Can't let them go.

I truly hope that I can stop "fixing" things after these few areas (that I have now spot puttied and will be spray painting tomorrow).

Truth to be told, I know that both the hood and the trunk need to be taken off, stripped to bare metal and started over, especially the dark part of the front hood.

Not sure if that will EVER happen or not.



Edited by 56D500boy 2022-05-29 9:26 PM
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