The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and TrimMessage format
 
56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-09 8:58 PM (#571409)
Subject: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert

Posts: 3682
20001000500100252525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
I've always been resisting the temptation to throw $10K for paint for my car. It's not worth it. Nice car but $10K into it would return about 10 cents on the dollar. So I have been rattle-canning the dark blue (using a 90's Dodge Neon Intense blue pearl) Duplicolor paint. The results are mixed but overall I am happy. Much better than when I got the car after 25 years under a polypropylene tarp.

The problem until recently (late August, early September) was getting a match on the light blue "Wedgewood". I was finally able to get a good match to a Mack truck light blue with adjustments to less green to match actual scans of my front passenger door. This good scan was done locally at Lordco in Burnaby (for those that know that store). I bought one initial can to try and when I found out it matched very well, I went back and bought a batch of 6 cans with this "custom" blend.

With the paint in hand, I painted the right rear quarter, the right rear passenger door, the front passenger door and the front fender. Mostly no issues until one day I tried too hard with the second coat and got some alligatoring on the top of the right fender. After waiting a couple of days, I sanded that out with 400 and the 800 grit. Came out fine. Then I did another coat. Worked great(ish).

Then I did the left rear quarter. Turned out okay. Then the weather turned cooler.

Lately, I've been working on the light blue parts of the hood and the driver's door and front fender during the past week or so. I did driver's door in the garage, heating it up with my little 1500 W quartz space heater (sitting on a 5 gal plastic pail) on reciprocating mode (blowing warm air left, center, and right ) for an hour or so and then applying the paint. Turned out okay. Did one coat using a previous "match" paint from Concept Finishes and then my new "proper" (not as green) Lordco blue as the second coat (with a bit of spot putty and 400 grit between coats). It will be okay when I eventually wet sand it as per a friends suggestions.

I did something similar for the front part of the hood, i.e. spot putty, 1K primer, the heater and the the Concept Finishes blue for the first coat. I was doing good. Then on Thursday or Friday last week (which ever was the "warm" day) I moved the car outside and painted the light blue bits on the side and front the hood with the Lordco blue on the street. It wasn't bad but there were some small glitches that I was going to have to fix.

So Saturday, I got the car out again and while my plan was to just sand and wipe on the street and paint in the garage (because of the wind), I got carried away and thinking that it was warm enough, I tried another coat on the front and sides of the hood. Disaster. Well not good. Where before I had a great finish except for the odd dust spec (or small fly), I now have patches of alligatoring (!!!) again. Merde. So I stopped and put the car into the garage and set up the heater on the front fender. I left it for an hour to warm up the fender and then sprayed the left front fender. I then set the heater back up to dry that coat. At last check, the fender seems to be good(ish).

Last time the alligatoring occurred when I painted a second coat over a first coat that wasn't very old. This time, it was over a first coat that was a couple of days old but on cold(ish) metal.

Would you believe it? Another sunny day today (Tuesday the 9th) (supposedly 18 C here) so I had to try again. Sanded off the latest alligator patches with 400 grit and then went over the light blue hood areas with 800 grit. Wiped it all down and got out a new can of matched paint to try again. Guess what? Happended again (but maybe in different areas). I think the problem is related to me trying too hard and applying too much paint and the solvents in the paint eating into the previous layer. Or something. I think it was warm enough. I know I should give up but I see another warm day coming so I will probably try one more time on the few remaining bad patches.

Remember that a real professional paint job is $6000 to $10000 plus locally so whatever I have done, spending a few hundreds on paint, even if not 100% perfect is financially better (for me). I am not trying to win any prizes, just make my car better than when I found it.

The most recent photos, including the Before (front hood area):

(Question: Why is it, without the front grill, I am seeing a 1950 or 1951 Ford??)




Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-10 12:45 AM




(DaveFs56DodgeRightFrontFenderResprayAfterFix.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_Before.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterOneRoundOfSpotPuttyAndPrimerGoingForTheSecondRoundOfSpotPutty.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterMoreSandingAndPrimerAndTwoCoatsOfLightBlueConceptAndLordcoShouldHaveStoppedThere.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_1.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_2.jpg)



(WeatherOct10to16_2018.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeRightFrontFenderResprayAfterFix.jpg (217KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_Before.jpg (135KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterOneRoundOfSpotPuttyAndPrimerGoingForTheSecondRoundOfSpotPutty.jpg (105KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeFrontHoodArea_AfterMoreSandingAndPrimerAndTwoCoatsOfLightBlueConceptAndLordcoShouldHaveStoppedThere.jpg (220KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_1.jpg (225KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeD500UnderRattleCanPaint_FrontAndHood_Oct9_2018_2.jpg (238KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments WeatherOct10to16_2018.jpg (51KB - 1 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mikes2nd
Posted 2018-10-10 10:01 AM (#571424 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


Expert

Posts: 3036
2000100025

 

yeah this weather is nutso crazy. its about to end, it will let me get my car painted so I can at least assemble it over the winter and get it running. I am painting the trunk, window and door jams today.

Doing your own paint job is not insanely hard. I have painted multiple cars in my garage/drive way. It will take more work.

I am running 110% to get this thing ready to work on in the winter... im sanding primer like nuts and getting them finished up. It the last warm day for me. I even clear coated/based in my garage. I can single stage outside even. (stupid bugs die and get sanded right out). Youll need to wet sand and buff the entire surface and potentially do some fixes but I can do a pro job. I did this paint job in my garage, 3 coats base coat, 5 coats of clear.



Edited by mikes2nd 2018-10-10 10:12 AM




(stealth 215.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments stealth 215.jpg (236KB - 1 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
BigBlockMopar
Posted 2018-10-10 1:36 PM (#571433 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert

Posts: 3473
200010001001001001002525
Location: Netherlands
Tip to Dave : Roll the paint on. It's easier, less messy, and can be done inside with a minimal of masking.
Paint needs to be able to settle down before it hardens. So you should use paint that still cures fairly quick, but not take a full day, because the longer it stays tacky, the more dust can embed.
Spraypaint usually hardens too quickly, unless all the stars are alined.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
FIN_NV
Posted 2018-10-10 2:03 PM (#571435 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert

Posts: 4570
200020005002525
Location: Northern New Jersey
You get what you pay for!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-10 2:21 PM (#571436 - in reply to #571435)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert

Posts: 3682
20001000500100252525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
Mike: Thanks for your comments. I don't even have a driveway, just my 12 x 20 jammed full 1942 garage on an alley and the street beside the house (corner lot). So I can only do so much.

BigBlockMopar - 2018-10-10 1:36 PM

Tip to Dave : Roll the paint on. It's easier, less messy, and can be done inside with a minimal of masking.
Paint needs to be able to settle down before it hardens. So you should use paint that still cures fairly quick, but not take a full day, because the longer it stays tacky, the more dust can embed.
Spraypaint usually hardens too quickly, unless all the stars are aligned.


Hey, my very first plan back in the fall of 2016 was to foam roller my car with Tremclad paints, at least to get the surface sealed and surface rust ( from being stored under a polypropylene tarp) stopped. Then I discovered that the Duplicolor paints I was going to use (eventually) eats Tremclad for lunch (nasty crazing). So that eneded that idea.

Then at one point, I was going to try rolling on Dulux Marine single stage Polyurethane paint - according to the Youtube videos, it olls on good and seems to dry nice and flat (no orange peel). I bougth a couple of quarts (one light blue, one darker blue) but they weren't close enough and they can't tint them so that ended that.

If I was to roll any of these latest matched paints, I can't buy them as a quart (or whatever) of single stage. I would have to buy them as a three part thing (one of which is catalyst) and mix them at home and either spray or roll them on. I am not brave enough to get the mixture right consistently. Hence the pre-mixed spray cans (and the consequences).


FIN_NV - 2018-10-10 2:03 PM
You get what you pay for!


Thanks. I know that full well. I am only trying to get my car to look better and good enough to get "Collector" plates, not enter a concours. If it was a 2 dr hardtop, I might want to spend the bucks on a professional paint job but as a 4 dr sedan, the pay back is minimal. So, yup, I will get what I paid for, i.e. "Better than when I bought the car".



Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-10 2:24 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
BigBlockMopar
Posted 2018-10-10 3:01 PM (#571439 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert

Posts: 3473
200010001001001001002525
Location: Netherlands
You might want to look into vinylwrapping your car.
Not as cheap as DIY-paint, but still cheaper than (pro) spraypainting.

I work in a signshop and the 'soft' wrapping vinyl kinds come by every so often. While I do say you have to practice (quite) a bit to get the vinyl to lay as you want it do, especially on curved material, but once done, the appearance is very good usually.
The higher end wrap-vinyls can be tailored with a hotair gun. Any sharp creases and distorted areas in the material can be restored to be smooth as silk again with it.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mikes2nd
Posted 2018-10-10 8:00 PM (#571459 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)


Expert

Posts: 3036
2000100025
I bet I could roll paint on, then sand and buff it out to a flawless paint job Ton of work but if it went on thick enough you wouldn't notice.

All the true professional paint jobs are sanded and buffed to perfection.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
1960fury
Posted 2018-10-10 8:15 PM (#571465 - in reply to #571459)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert 5K+

Posts: 5476
5000100100100100252525
Location: northern germany
mikes2nd - 2018-10-10 8:00 PM

I bet I could roll paint on, then sand and buff it out to a flawless paint job Ton of work but if it went on thick enough you wouldn't notice.

All the true professional paint jobs are sanded and buffed to perfection.


I thought the same thing and I bet it could be, properly sanded and polished, smoother than a regular paint job, that mostly has a water-like surface.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-10 11:43 PM (#571473 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert

Posts: 4722
20002000500100100
Location: So. California
Rattle cans of paint just aren't worth doing. At least not for any area with lots of sunlight. Here in S. Cal, a rattle can paint job will last 1 year before it oxidizes and looks worse than when you started. The best thing you can do, in my opinion, is to fully prep your car for paint yourself, prime it with rattle cans to make sure it has an even color. Sand the primer down smooth, and take it in to a 1-day paint or Earl Shieb's. Pay for the quality of paint that you can afford and have them spray it. It will look far better than a rattle can job, last a lot longer, and be the same amount of work. It should only cost you about $800 for a decent quality paint. Well worth it in the end so you aren't doing the same thing next year, and the next year ....
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-11 12:07 AM (#571478 - in reply to #571473)
Subject: Re: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Expert

Posts: 3682
20001000500100252525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
I'm in the Vancouver BC Canada area so no baking sun here.

There are no Earl Shieb's. There is/was one Maaco but the reputation was worse than the worst, i.e. stay away.

I keep fishing for a low cost painter locally with car guys I meet but so far, nobody has taken the bait. I only get the "Paint jobs cost $10K" answers.

So I'm doing what I'm doing. Trust me it's going to better than what I started with.

I've still got some mechanical things to sort, e.g. front disc brakes, etc. before I commit big bucks to paint.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
57plybel
Posted 2018-10-11 4:22 AM (#571486 - in reply to #571409)
Subject: RE: The trials of rattle-can painting, i.e. I'm a cheap @ss ;)



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 576
500252525
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Watch out for the spot putty Dave, some brands are nitrocellulose which is really old technology ( great for guitars).... if you can find a high quality spot putty or just keep priming and blocking, you can avoid the reactions and achieve a reasonable finish. I did this decades ago as a kid, used all sorts of high end two pack products since but still dabble in spray bombs!!

 

Good luck and keep at it....Colin

 

 

Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread



(Delete all cookies set by this site)