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Regular
Posts: 53
| So went out to pull the rear drum off "real quick" so I can see which wheel seal to order from Rock Auto as apparently there were two types of axles used on my Coronet...
Couldn't get it off (obviously) and I saw the keyway in there - I couldn't remember anything about it except that it was called a "keyway," so on to Google I went...
Ahhh crap...
Okay so I learned how to get it off and already ordered the tool. Question is, how do I put the drum back ON when I'm done swapping out my wheel studs?? Looks like you gotta tighten it down like crazy - will an electric impact do the trick you think, or do I need to get more creative or take it to a shop?
Any tips are appreciated! Man these old Mopars are a gift that just keep on giving... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
   
Location: So. Cal | A 1/2" electric cord type of impact should work fine to put it back on. Battery powered impact, not so much. I like the Snap-on or Blue-point type of puller to get them off. Heavy duty and always works effortlessly. Never had a drum that wouldn't come off with it. |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Clean the taper surfaces, the keyway and the wedge good, remove sharp edges and burrs with a emery cloth.
Cover the tapered shaft and the tapered drum surfaces with chalk powder, mount the drum and tighten to specification (145 foot pounds) in steps.
If the threads and/or the nut are damaged or not in very good condition, torque to 100 foot pounds.
The chalk prevents binding, fills up uneven surfaces and makes it easier to remove the drum in the future, all according to the fsm.
The taper is a mechanical bounding, hence no oil or grease is allowed.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 507
Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | ViperMan - 2018-07-02 6:20 PM Man these old Mopars are a gift that just keep on giving...
Yes, ...... a pain in the butt.
It is possible to cross thread the nut on the axle, (ask me how I know), due diligence required. |
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Location: Parts Unknown | This subject mystifies me. I have worked with these axles on
HUNDREDS of cars .... most were field relics and probably the
worst for what should have been "stuck" on, and only two or three
ever defied the puller and some toasting via the gas wrench. Just
apply good pressure and heat the hub. Repeat as necessary. They
will usually "pop" right off. You heat it, walk away, and as it cools,
you'll hear a "pop" sound. Walk over to find the drum sitting loose
on the spindle.
Putting them back on, you just righten the nut like normal. No
big deal. I apply a micro-thin smear of anti-sieze on mine before
I do, to avoid a bind up on future pulls. Then just cinch it up like
normal, drop a cotter pin in like normal, and go.
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Regular
Posts: 53
| Doctor DeSoto - 2018-07-03 9:43 AM
This subject mystifies me. I have worked with these axles on
HUNDREDS of cars .... most were field relics and probably the
worst for what should have been "stuck" on, and only two or three
ever defied the puller and some toasting via the gas wrench. Just
apply good pressure and heat the hub. Repeat as necessary. They
will usually "pop" right off. You heat it, walk away, and as it cools,
you'll hear a "pop" sound. Walk over to find the drum sitting loose
on the spindle.
Putting them back on, you just righten the nut like normal. No
big deal. I apply a micro-thin smear of anti-sieze on mine before
I do, to avoid a bind up on future pulls. Then just cinch it up like
normal, drop a cotter pin in like normal, and go.
This subject mystifies YOU?! I've worked on exactly NONE of these cars - how do ya think *I* feel?! 
I don't think my little Home Depot butane torch is going to produce the kind of heat you're talking about, so I think I'll stick with the $100 puller instead of going out and buying an entire oxy-acetylene setup... |
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Veteran
Posts: 236
Location: Morgan Hill, CA | I got the puller on mine and it worked great. No big deal at all. |
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Regular
Posts: 53
| Yeah I have the puller on its way. My only concern was if I needed a "pusher"... But it sounds like an impact and maybe a pry bar wedged against the studs and floor are all I need.
Do I just put the keyway in place as I'm putting it back together? There's no special process for reinstalling the keyway? |
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Veteran
Posts: 145
| After making sure that everything is clean and polished, I put the hub on first before I put the key in. After tapping the key in most
of the way, I let the nut and washer pull it in completely when they are tightened. This will let the hub seat before the key is at
"total depth". Seen a lot of Jeeps with split or loose hubs because the key was to far in when it was tightened. |
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Expert
Posts: 3775
Location: NorCal | Doctor DeSoto - 2018-07-03 6:43 AM
I apply a micro-thin smear of anti-sieze on mine before
I do, to avoid a bind up on future pulls.
If you do that you're still mystified when it comes to proper procedures. |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Perhaps, but I get a good, solid fit (still requires the puller
and some tension), but doesn't need an oxy/acetylene torch
to break things loose.
We have had this discussion on this forum numerous times.
I am failing to grasp the downside to using a micro-smear of
anti-seize, as long as a solid seat is achieved. On the upside,
when servicing those brakes, pulling the drums is not a major
production. Back when parts cars were common and easy to
come by, destroying a drum was no big deal ... just get another
one ! But after I got them turned and really working right, I
was in no hurry to risk warping them with red hot torch work.
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Expert
Posts: 3775
Location: NorCal | Doctor DeSoto - 2018-07-07 9:33 PM
I am failing to grasp the downside to using a micro-smear of
anti-seize, as long as a solid seat is achieved.
"Solid seat" and a layer anti-seize are an oxymoron. If there's enough goo to aid removal, then there's enough goo to prevent the taper's purpose i.e. [g]to grip. Tapers always go together dry or with the aforementioned chalk to aid the grip. Also, the anti-seize will allow the drum hub to seat deeper on the axle shaft at any given nut torque, so removal could be made more difficult.
This is nothing unique to Mopar axles, it's just common shop practice. |
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Regular
Posts: 53
| Well before this gets too off topic, I did get the drums pulled with no issue, but in the process of pounding out the studs to replace them, appear to have warped the sh!t out of the middle of the drum. I'm about to put it back together but have no idea if it's even going to roll... And of course, drums are apparently hard to come by... Sounds like a disc-conversion might be in my near future! |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The studs must be pressed out with an appropriate piece of steel tube as an anvil, also best to remove the swag before attempting to press out the studs or the splines in the hub will be damaged. Most probably you can throw away the drum and hub.
Check with John Fowlie, Big M for a "new" drum/hub…... |
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | See the link below for all the info you need regarding your tapered axles and brake drums.
http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html
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So NOW I learn about rear drums & tapered axles...
