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Member
Posts: 37
| I have just joined the land yacht club with a 1961 Crown Imperial. The motor is currently frozen and I plan to do a budget rebuild (new bearings, rings, cam, lifters, reground valves, honed cylinders), brakes, etcetera over the winter and will be cruising as soon as I can.
My main question is this: how do I get the block unbolted from the transmission?
Specifically, where are the bolts and how many are there? I have removed all the accessories, pulleys, and radiator to save weight and bulk while yanking it but there is also a considerable amount of compost from rodents and mammals living in the engine bay, most of which has been cleaned out but there is enough left to make it difficult to feel my way around the bell housing. It was parked ages ago, and still has a "MoPar Original Equipment" and early-1970's MoPar oil filter under the hood.
my personal email: harplou@bulldog.mcpherson.edu |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9900
   
Location: Lower Mainland BC | Congrats/condolences. 
Here is a photo that might or might not help you:
1961 Chrysler (should be close):
The larger holes will mostly be for transmission to block bolts (except two will be for the starter):
Prepare to get dirty.
Edited by 56D500boy 2017-11-13 2:28 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6498
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Make sure the car is supported very well before going down south. Support the tranny when you unbolt the engine. Using a long extensions(s) and a wobble socket,ujoint,wobble extension will help.
Edited by mstrug 2017-11-13 5:18 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 943
| I have had a difficult time separating the engine from the trans when they are stuck. It is tough to get the torque converter off. You may wanted to pull it with the torque converter and just unbolt the trans from the torque converter. |
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Member
Posts: 37
| Thanks for all the advice. I was planning to let the air out the front tires to get the nose of the car as low as I can so I don't have to hoist the motor to high. Hopefully I can get the heads off (to save weight) and free the motor before it gets hauled out of the engine bay. What exactly is the torque converter bolted to and do I need to take the inspection cover off the trans to undo anything? If anyone has a trans mount, I will need one of those as well. |
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Member
Posts: 16
| The cast iron torque converter is bolted to the flange at the rear of the crankshaft by eight studs projecting off the front of the converter. If you remove the plate at the bottom front of the bellhousing you'll see the flange/converter attachment. |
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Location: North Australia | LouisHarper - 2017-11-14 3:21 AM
I have just joined the land yacht club with a 1961 Crown Imperial. The motor is currently frozen and I plan to do a budget rebuild (new bearings, rings, cam, lifters, reground valves, honed cylinders), brakes, etcetera over the winter and will be cruising as soon as I can.
My main question is this: how do I get the block unbolted from the transmission?
Specifically, where are the bolts and how many are there? I have removed all the accessories, pulleys, and radiator to save weight and bulk while yanking it but there is also a considerable amount of compost from rodents and mammals living in the engine bay, most of which has been cleaned out but there is enough left to make it difficult to feel my way around the bell housing. It was parked ages ago, and still has a "MoPar Original Equipment" and early-1970's MoPar oil filter under the hood.
my personal email: harplou@bulldog.mcpherson.edu
Welcome to the club. Why have you not posted pictures of this Imperial?? 
I am sure you are aware you are dealing with some seriously heavy artillery here. The engine weighs approx 450 KG. The Torqueflite is around 95 KG.
I removed the engine and box as a unit on my Imperial.I used a movable gantry I made for the job. Then broke them apart on a trolley I made for the job. It made the job easy, What I am saying is if you have the gear it is easy/doable. if you don't, be aware you are dealing with some heavy metal! last thing you want to do is injure yourself, or worse, damage the car!
On the 61 you have the added problem of the integral front fenders and front end, so you will need some serious weight management equipment.
Steve. |
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Member
Posts: 37
| I don't have a smartphone or else I could post good photographs. It's a really neat car, I finally got the driver's door open last night and the vin tag says it's the 854th car made that year.
Does anyone here have some spare 413 pistons? I removed the passenger cylinder head last night and there was one rusty piston out of the four on that side. I feel like that's what is holding up the show of getting the motor free (as opposed to rings sticking), as the others weren't corroded at all and I could see a gap all the way around those other three pistons. |
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Member
Posts: 16
| Are you talking a coolant leak (gasket leak/ head crack) on that cylinder as a culprit for the rust? |
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Member
Posts: 37
| No, the two cylinders that corroded are next to each other in the firing order (rear cylinder passenger side, front cylinder driver side) so I believe the valves stuck open and some water snuck in over the years. Not very much was in there and oddly enough the ATF I poured in to free the rings never made to either of those places, but it got into the other six cylinders. I plan to find a usable motor and swap the crank in so it still mates with my current trans. This motor is a 413 RB, would 383 B heads work A-OK? My friend has a set and they fit on the block with no wobbling or otherwise and the bolt holes line up. |
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Member
Posts: 37
| It might have been a gasket leak, as they are the original DPCD metal gaskets. It would be odd for only two cylinders to rust at opposite ends of the firing order, which is why I suspected a few valves to be hung open. |
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Member
Posts: 37
| Is there any difference between pre-1962 and 1962-1965 413's in terms of where the bolt holes are located for accessories? I have a lead on a late 413 short block. |
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Member
Posts: 16
| When you speak of "late 413" remember the 413's carried on into the 70's as motorhome/utility engines. Is this an already rebuilt short block? If so check the short block pistons. Most commercially stocked pistons for 413's are low compression ratio dished ones. Great for going into a bread truck, will leave you underwhelmed in your Imperial. Remember your crankshaft for '61 uses that boltable torque converter. Different crank/different tranny.
Edited by Direwolfe 2017-11-20 1:15 PM
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Member
Posts: 37
| He claims it looks like it was rebuilt at some point. Hopefully they put normal pistons in it. |
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Veteran
Posts: 135
| I have a 413 out of 63 imperial and just got my motor back from engine shop and running they had to special order pistons cause motor Sat do long had to bore 30 over pistons r hard to find they told me |
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1961 Imperial engine removal
