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bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | I am having trouble locating the correct front wheel studs for my 1960 Phoenix, I need the smooth shank .625 diameter but all I can come up with are the .645 diameter or a knurled .625 diameter. Anyone have a good part number or source for these? Thanks, Chris. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | are you sure about the smooth shank? the oe studs in my 1960/61 plymouth and desotos were knurled. | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | Absolutely, I have them pressed out and have measured them as well as the holes in the hub multiple times to make sure I am not losing my mind. (The holes in the hub measure .620) (2017-06-26 16.55.23.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 2017-06-26 16.55.23.jpg (213KB - 292 downloads) | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | bisquick59 - 2017-06-26 7:29 PM Absolutely, I have them pressed out and have measured them as well as the holes in the hub multiple times to make sure I am not losing my mind. (The holes in the hub measure .620) sorry, i suddenly remember the studs of my 61 desoto had a smooth shank too (getting old) but i'm positive about my 60 fury having knurled shank studs (still have to old ones). | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3777 Location: NorCal | Search here: https://static.dormanproducts.com/document/WheelLugStudAttributes.pd... | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | That list is a tad discouraging....thanks for sharing 57chizler. I really don't want to drill out the hubs (and drums) but that may be my best option at this point. I'll definitley see if I can dress up my OG studs before I start with the drilling. I've got the front end all rebuilt and this is all that is preventing me from getting it back on the ground. | ||
ruchaven |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: York County, PA | I checked all my extra axles. They are smooth .625 studs but they are both left and right hand threads. I seem to recall reading somewhere in the mid 1960's when they changed to all right hand threads and there was a technical bulletin issued by Chrysler to retrofit to all right hand threads. A knurled stud is easier to install than a smooth stud, it won't go in as crooked and still work. I know one thing for sure, you do not want to drill your hubs and drums by hand just to make them bigger. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3777 Location: NorCal | I'd use the .625" splined stud, the studs don't need much press fit to be retained properly. | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | Unfortunately the .625 splined studs didn't work, I was able to push them out with my thumb. I'll scan that Dorman link again and see if I can find a larger spline, I am trying to avoid modifying those hubs. | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | ruchaven - 2017-06-30 12:10 PM I checked all my extra axles. They are smooth .625 studs but they are both left and right hand threads. I seem to recall reading somewhere in the mid 1960's when they changed to all right hand threads and there was a technical bulletin issued by Chrysler to retrofit to all right hand threads. A knurled stud is easier to install than a smooth stud, it won't go in as crooked and still work. I know one thing for sure, you do not want to drill your hubs and drums by hand just to make them bigger. Definitely trying to avoid modifying the hubs ruchaven, I have an adjustable reamer and access to a milling machine if it comes to that but that is a last resort. You wouldn't want to press those out and send them to me would ya? | ||
ruchaven |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: York County, PA | If your holes are really .620 all around and your studs are really .625 minimum all around, you are not going to push the studs out with your thumb with a .005 interference fit. Now if you really need a .630 O/S stud, then a .625 won't help you. I would not go with any aftermarket studs, I would really try to find Mopar OEM studs; I would think they should be fairly common to find because you are not limited to year, make, model. In my 1960 parts book, I show two stud sizes, .625 P/N 679118 and .630 O/S P/N 687901 for a Dodge. Try to get all right hand thread when you are looking. Do not mix right hand and left hand threaded studs together. These part numbers are not limited to a 1960 Dodge. Try to dress up the threads on your originals and try on your matching bolts. Failing that, check with Big M on here when he gets back as a supply source. Since you are in Washington state, network with Ian on here and his association with the WPC Club in your area. Someone out in your area knows how to solve your problem. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3777 Location: NorCal | I've been using Dorman studs forever. Where do you think the factory got theirs? | ||
ruchaven |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: York County, PA | Yes, I know Dorman has been around forever and marketed as aftermarket. But I have two 1960 Mopar parts lists, one issued in October 1959 and the other issued in July 1960. They are different. He may need the .630 O/S one posted in the parts list. Does Dorman have it? I don't know because I am not looking. I only know with having two 1960 Dodges at my house in pieces that they are not identical in every way. I am answering his questions in his posts. He needs studs that will fit regardless of who made them. Any other ideas you wish to contribute to solve his problem? And yes, I'm partial to prospective owners of a Dodge Phoenix. Edited by ruchaven 2017-07-04 3:59 PM | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | I'm sure you are absolutley right, the .625 splines barely took the paint off so that extra .005 should be perfect. I must not have measured the holes accurately. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | dorman sells a .628 x 1 1/2" knurled , work?---------------------------------------------later Edited by 60 dart 2017-07-04 5:25 PM | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | After searching that Dorman file again I found a .637 that may be worth a try since the knurling is in the correct location. The .630 would be a better option but the knurling is not on the whole shank and therefore wouldn’t engage the hub since it passes through the drum first. I think my best option would be tracking down some O.E. studs (I really appreciate that O/S part number ruchaven). I was able to dress up all of my right hand studs and three of my left hand but the other two were mangled beyond recognition. | ||
ruchaven |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: York County, PA | In case you want to know more about your car, put the online Imperial web site on favorites and use it. It is not just for Imperials. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the information contained there. Let us know when your car is on the road. | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | Quick update, a machinist friend is going to turn down the .645 diameter studs I originally bought so I don't have to modify my hubs or hunt down OEM parts and it will only cost me a bottle of bourbon. | ||
ruchaven |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: York County, PA | Great idea. It probably wouldn't hurt to have your friend also measure the holes on the hubs to make sure you get a good clean interference fit. Let the forum see the results as a lesson to those who are not familiar with this process. | ||
bisquick59 |
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Member Posts: 27 Location: Washougal, Wa. | Success! I gave an original stud as well as the first set I purchased, that measured .645", to a machinist friend. He determined the studs were .628" and turned them down accordingly. Thanks for all of your assistance! (2017-07-20 20.10.09.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 2017-07-20 20.10.09.jpg (242KB - 267 downloads) | ||
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