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57 Royal with 392 project Jump to page : < 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ... > Now viewing page 2 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> Members Rides | Message format |
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | pulled front trim and glass out, got the first 20 inches ready for painting (framestart3.jpg) (glass2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- framestart3.jpg (208KB - 479 downloads) glass2.jpg (248KB - 493 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Coming along nicely. I wish my windshield rubber looked like that. Mine is hard as a rock and in about 1000 pieces. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | round 1 of rust bullet, 2nd coat goes on tomorrow. (framepaintstart.jpg) Attachments ---------------- framepaintstart.jpg (143KB - 477 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | radiator support complete, two coats of rust bullet and one coat rust bullet black shell. (radsupport.jpg) Attachments ---------------- radsupport.jpg (241KB - 474 downloads) | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | Looking good! Steve. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | Tearing out dash to get it sandblasted... and my emblem haul as of late... (dashremove.jpg) (EmblemHaul.jpg) Attachments ---------------- dashremove.jpg (226KB - 472 downloads) EmblemHaul.jpg (230KB - 484 downloads) | ||
FIN ME |
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Expert Posts: 2788 Location: USA - KY | Great emblem haul you have there. The script styles of the old cars were so much cooler than most of what's on the new cars, IMHO. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | Dash out... gonna rebuild this harness on this sucker I guess also! I do like the video on youtube of the guy doing his Plymouth. dash is going to the sandblaster, brake assembly will be replaced with a power steering one. I have new guages and speedo all ready to go, so that part will be easy, new steering wheel...
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-07-23 11:39 PM (dashout.jpg) Attachments ---------------- dashout.jpg (180KB - 475 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | back from the sandblaster, metal etching the dash. front end rebuild happens soon. (dash1.jpg) (sandblast.jpg) Attachments ---------------- dash1.jpg (130KB - 486 downloads) sandblast.jpg (156KB - 480 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | this was a lot of work... digging in a those little crevices... (frontend.jpg) Attachments ---------------- frontend.jpg (210KB - 464 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | I can attest to that. Looking good. Edited by Powerflite 2017-08-05 5:32 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | I spun the oil pump on the hemi to build oil pressure tonight also. Next up, rust bullet black shell tomorrow. Then rebuild entire front end, buy calipers that fit and pads put in power steering after I clean out the floor pan area so I can steer it put doors fenders and hood on it(temporarily), take it to dmv to get out of state paper. Get it titled. lift it off the frame and get to cutting and welding. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | suspension goes on tomorrow! finally can get it moving again. (black.jpg) Attachments ---------------- black.jpg (227KB - 483 downloads) | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1739 Location: Alaska | You should try to find and install the factory front sway bar, it would help the handling especially with the extra weight. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Agreed. Even with my stock 325, there is a huge difference in handling between my '58 DeSoto with a sway bar and the '58 Dodge without one. Probably not what you want to hear right after painting it all up. I am going to fab the brackets for mine as soon as I get the New Yorker running. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | I have one, I will bolt it onto the frame and not weld it in. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | painted the stabilizer bar, need to find bushings, I will weld a bracket together that I can bolt on. Need to get calipers also (frontassembly.jpg) Attachments ---------------- frontassembly.jpg (243KB - 456 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | just need to add the torsion bars and hubs and I can get it rolling again, which is my main objective... (frontTogether.jpg) Attachments ---------------- frontTogether.jpg (144KB - 458 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | ugh spent 70$ on bolts and nuts. (AAJBrakes.jpg) (testfitPSandCenter.jpg) Attachments ---------------- AAJBrakes.jpg (217KB - 446 downloads) testfitPSandCenter.jpg (220KB - 444 downloads) | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3027 Location: N.W. Fla. | on my '60 Plym I used '77 NYer disc spindles. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | I like the AAJ, it came with bolts and I would probably spend just as much looking for a 77 scrap car, I am replacing all the bolts with new grade 8 stuff(the bumper bracket bolts were the big expense..). | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | getting closer to putting it back on the ground then I can hook it to the hauler and take it to the new garage for welding up the floors/body cleanup/paint. Im goign to have to cut that stablizer bar bracket adn weld it back up so i can get the bushings in on the ends. I got the others in fine.
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-08-20 12:47 AM (BrakeRotor.jpg) (stabBar1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BrakeRotor.jpg (242KB - 448 downloads) stabBar1.jpg (202KB - 485 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | stabilizer bar almost installed... (swaybarChrysvsDodge.jpg) (stabbarend.jpg) Attachments ---------------- swaybarChrysvsDodge.jpg (244KB - 430 downloads) stabbarend.jpg (244KB - 438 downloads) | ||
oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | Mr Fancy Britches, drilled and sloted. Don't want that Hemi to turn into a Mustang Video. lol Looking good!!!! Edited by oldwood 2017-08-20 9:39 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | hah yeah 75$ a rotor! I'm a high roller man, I'm going to out brake a Ferrari Anyone need a torqueflight? | ||
1977cutcher |
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Member Posts: 5 | Don't need a torqueflight however I might be interested in the left drum if it's in good shape. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | ive got drums in good shape, where you at? | ||
1977cutcher |
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Member Posts: 5 | I'm in northern Ohio. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | its on the ground. Now to clear it out and get it rolling. the cowl area is good, doesnt need welded, just needs a good cleaning and rust bullet... thatll save me a day or two. I need to get the drive shaft out, ill drop the tank also, get it boxed up and ready to go to other garage for welding on the body/rest of the frame finish. (ontheground.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ontheground.jpg (219KB - 454 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | getting it ready for moving... time is running out in ohio weather... trunk isn't that bad. (trunkdrop.jpg) (escaped1.jpg) (escaped2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- trunkdrop.jpg (220KB - 436 downloads) escaped1.jpg (246KB - 448 downloads) escaped2.jpg (224KB - 445 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | getting trans ready (parkingbrake1.jpg) (parkingbrake2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- parkingbrake1.jpg (242KB - 439 downloads) parkingbrake2.jpg (198KB - 443 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | way to much and have to cut it down but braces are good. (floorpan1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- floorpan1.jpg (240KB - 450 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | getting dash ready for new seam sealing and primer/paint, front passenger floorpan is in, rocker finishes up soon. I'm pushing hard to get the body done before winter... starting putting in ALOT of time. I don't like the design for the water routing on these cars, it routes the water down the front of the firewall? Any bit of seam sealer fail and you car is litterally full of water. its always best to use a solid pan and route the water outward. The FWL cars dont do that, they seem to route out those two holes(and the water sits in the "lip" just waiting to rust through and spill water down inside the car...\ I went with the Schott rockers and they are in town(local pickup), way better than the other cruddy junk. My floorpans come with a lip so im triple thick there with the lip and my floorpans are thick also. I need to grind down the welds and seamseal and paint up the floors. Finish drilling the holes for the support underneath.
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-09-27 9:51 PM (firewall.jpg) (floorpan.jpg) Attachments ---------------- firewall.jpg (246KB - 430 downloads) floorpan.jpg (239KB - 430 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | You have an earlier car like my '57 New Yorker. '57's made later in the year changed those drains to have 2 flanges with holes in them to hold the drain tubes, and the bottom lip is lower so it drains better and doesn't collect so much dirt and mud. http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=66044&... Edited by Powerflite 2017-09-27 10:32 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | Good thread, Chrysler must have said "were dummies" and better fix this as water sits there forever(hot engine bay maybe helped) but it was plain bad. I will open up those holes so they drain easier and seam seal it big time. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | okay which way does the heater diverter spring push to? toward the bottom and default out the defroster? or up and let the air at the feet? I assumed it pushes down. I think it took 6 hours to refurb that darn contraption. I stuck new rubber on the flapper and I'm not even done yet. I noticed the 58 Plymouth uses a steel flapper and it will rust. (diverter.jpg) Attachments ---------------- diverter.jpg (202KB - 426 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | It pushes up to default to "inside the car"... finally finished this beast... I think restoring this took more time than welding a fricking floorpan in... yeesh... I used foam board and gorilla tape(this stuff is insane). You can put this tape through the wash multiple times and it wont come off and I didn't want to try to start stapling this thing again. I enhanced it a bit with newer rubber and other materials, lubed everything, touched it up, better than new and wont mold like the paper backing it had before. (div1.jpg) (Div2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- div1.jpg (238KB - 436 downloads) Div2.jpg (246KB - 442 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | I have 3m seam sealed and tested for leaks around the trouble areas. I welded a few spots. I did find a tiny pinhole in the air intake area... I saw rust bullet flow inside the car. My cowl backside was pretty good, just a few pinholes, i will re-seam seal that whole area also so water can sit inside that area ever again. the 3m stuff is great. now I will dynamat the front firewall inside and a put in new padding once I rust bullet the inside. Then the dash can start going back in... Edited by mikes2nd 2017-10-04 5:02 PM (firewall1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- firewall1.jpg (280KB - 430 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Great work on your air box. Those things are kindof a pain to deal with. What color scheme did you decide on for this? | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | going white, blue interior like stock also. I "might" paint the fins yellow and see if it sticks | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | test fitting for cut line on rockers fits great (rocker1.jpg) (rocker2.jpg) (rocker3.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rocker1.jpg (241KB - 430 downloads) rocker2.jpg (131KB - 428 downloads) rocker3.jpg (197KB - 452 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | heavy body primer'd the hood and fender... wont see paint till spring. Got to get these floors in so I can wire and get the engine in and fired up over winter... Ohio isn't good for working on cars... (fenderprimer.jpg) (hoodprimer.jpg) Attachments ---------------- fenderprimer.jpg (242KB - 419 downloads) hoodprimer.jpg (199KB - 442 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | test fitting drivers floorpan for burn in.. (driversfloorpan.jpg) Attachments ---------------- driversfloorpan.jpg (239KB - 502 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | welded! (driverspanburnin.jpg) Attachments ---------------- driverspanburnin.jpg (247KB - 428 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | other rocker goes on tomorrow. Stopped by summit racings "scratch and dent sale". All this stuff is marked down pretty good got a 440 Pulley that fits the 392! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-10049 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-15427 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-pv17 Got a brake proportional valve and a air intake... still not sure about that... I need low profile though. (bsp-15427_xl.jpg) (mch-10049_w.jpg) (RSD-PV17_xl.jpg) Attachments ---------------- bsp-15427_xl.jpg (90KB - 397 downloads) mch-10049_w.jpg (10KB - 412 downloads) RSD-PV17_xl.jpg (44KB - 387 downloads) | ||
mogge65 |
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Expert Posts: 1295 Location: Nasco , SWEDEN | Great work , i canĀ“t wait for more progress and info | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | drivers side floor is done and rocker is welded in up top, I will do a final cut then tack in the bottom tomorrow. I really need to get this body done asap. test fitting the pulleys. I am going to have to figure out these brackets. No AC but I need power steering and alternator. I think I'm going to have to go high on the passenger side with the alternator. I would like to keep it down low but I will see. (pulleys.jpg) (driverrocker.jpg) Attachments ---------------- pulleys.jpg (306KB - 409 downloads) driverrocker.jpg (197KB - 391 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | picked up a radiator and a temp sensor/fan motor control module at summits scratch and dent. Tacked in the drivers rocker. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Rust repair looks like it is coming along well. Who made your rocker panels for you? | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | Schott, I was going to ask them about "other panels they could make. I know they used to make lower quarter patches and headlight caps. I bet they still have the stamps, they have huge presses... place is old school Griffin radiator sensor PC-91H, Derale High-Output Dual RAD Fan and Shroud Kits 16927, and Summit RacingĀ® Universal Fit Aluminum Radiators SUM-380308 The fan will need a little trimming in the area of the radiator hoses but the fit is great. (PF-91CH.jpg) (radiator.jpg) (fanshroudl.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PF-91CH.jpg (36KB - 405 downloads) radiator.jpg (20KB - 415 downloads) fanshroudl.jpg (60KB - 382 downloads) | ||
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