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57 Royal with 392 project Jump to page : < 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 > Now viewing page 7 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2207 Location: Muskego, WI | Looking great, and more like a car every day. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Lower valence i think will stay color matched... not a huge fan of the silver...
painted a hood hinge and a trunk hinge, both were buggered... Took like 5 trunk hinges and 3 hood hinges to get good ones...
Edited by mikes2nd 2019-11-11 3:58 AM (lowerValence.jpg) Attachments ---------------- lowerValence.jpg (239KB - 484 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Winter plans are 0. get car on dolley and down to bmv for title 1.cut end buff small pieces for final assembly.anything in the front end. 2 get roof wrapped 3. get wiring harness rough installed under the dash and run. Start mapping the new harness to the old dash 4. Put a volt meter in place of amp gauge, keep face and needle though 5. get dash installed, power steering column completed 6. gas tank and fuel pump installed in the rear of the car(mapping electric pump). 7. fuel line 8. brake line hookup 9. carb install 10. glass install and finish roof /glass install 11. radiator and fan install | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3082 Location: N.W. Fla. | Should have got Title before doing any work on it. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Mopar1 - 2019-11-11 3:50 PM Should have got Title before doing any work on it.
just a formality, i have a clean matching title. You take it out to any small bmv and they send the title in. ive done it many times. I have to have a out of state inspection, a little 70 year old little asian lady comes out and looks for the vin number and odometer... You cant have a car in pieces though, it has to look like a car :) I bought this car off a cop in missouri so i dont think it was stolen... I can call him up and tell him though | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Test fitting front end... putting it together to take to BMV office (frontend2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- frontend2.jpg (236KB - 453 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | I went with the Edelbrock AVS2 Laying out the wiring harness. I got a 59 Dodge hood and lower front bumper... My 59 dodge front end is complete. (avs2-pair.jpg) Attachments ---------------- avs2-pair.jpg (145KB - 421 downloads) | ||
KcImperial |
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Expert Posts: 2490 Location: Kansas City, KS | I put one of those AVS2's on my 383 last year, very happy with it. It's now the best running, carbureted car I own | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | KcImperial - 2020-03-02 11:20 PM I put one of those AVS2's on my 383 last year, very happy with it. It's now the best running, carbureted car I own yeah i dont want to go with some ratty old carb... Seems the AVS2s are the real deal, i looked at the holley brawler also but this is low profile, came with a free air cleaner and 20$ off | ||
22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 723 Location: Finland | I really like that color... pretty close to the one I have on my Firedome... (IMG_3687x.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_3687x.JPG (41KB - 416 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VqVSVCwwwI cutting and buffing... | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10351 Location: Lower Mainland BC | mikes2nd - 2020-03-02 6:17 PM I went with the Edelbrock AVS2 Mike: Not sure what manifold you are using. After watching two videos on the AVS2, I am interested in a 500 cfm one for my 56 Dodge D500 315 hemi. Might be over kill but I am not happy with my rebuilt stock D500 Carter WCFB 2442S four barrel. The AVS2 sounds promising. I still have the stock WCFB manifold so I think that I would at least need a spread bore type adapter. After that, I don't have clue. Any thoughts? | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3082 Location: N.W. Fla. | 56D500boy - 2020-04-06 12:59 AM The AVS is a square bore, you'll need the HH small bore to big bore adaptor. Never seen hard numbers on the WCFB, supposedly 375-450 CFM.mikes2nd - 2020-03-02 6:17 PM I went with the Edelbrock AVS2 Mike: Not sure what manifold you are using. After watching two videos on the AVS2, I am interested in a 500 cfm one for my 56 Dodge D500 315 hemi. Might be over kill but I am not happy with my rebuilt stock D500 Carter WCFB 2442S four barrel. The AVS2 sounds promising. I still have the stock WCFB manifold so I think that I would at least need a spread bore type adapter. After that, I don't have clue. Any thoughts? :) | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3969 Location: DFW, TX | WCFBs are 385cfm. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | fitting radiator... cut and buffed a fin... going to wrap it.. I am using a hot heads hemi manifold. Edited by mikes2nd 2020-04-08 10:02 PM (finbuffed.jpg) (radiator1.jpg) (radiator2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- finbuffed.jpg (244KB - 416 downloads) radiator1.jpg (216KB - 411 downloads) radiator2.jpg (238KB - 402 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10351 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 57burb - 2020-04-06 3:06 PM WCFBs are 385cfm. I am told that my 56 D500 2442S WCFB was 320 cfm so not all WCFBs were created equal (??) | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10351 Location: Lower Mainland BC | mikes2nd - 2020-04-08 6:56 PM cut and buffed a fin... going to wrap it. Great job on the fin. Going to be a shame to wrap it and cover up your excellent work. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | so i tried pulling the rear hub off the axle and it broke my puller... 3 hours down the drain Even more reason to go out and find a new posi axle.. Im off to hunt at the pull a part. the cut down ford is 57.5... a little short but I can deal with offset and a spacer if i have to. Painted the inner rockers, gas tank is in, electric fuel pump is mounted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geyuFv4zw_g
Edited by mikes2nd 2020-05-26 10:42 PM (rearpullerbroke.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rearpullerbroke.jpg (129KB - 382 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10063 Location: So. Cal | Another reason to buy a good quality puller. Many people have had gobs of trouble with crappy quality pullers, and yet, John Folie has literally pulled 1000's of them with his puller without fail, and so have I. Just because we are smart enough to use a puller that is actually suited for the job. (Hub Puller.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Hub Puller.jpg (68KB - 394 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10351 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Three things: 1. What is this 3M wand? Looks good. 2. I used one Eastwood can per rocker cavity on my 56 Dodge. If I get a 3M wand, I might go again. 3. What drum puller did you break? I am waiting for the borders to re-open so I can order one of Les Fairbanks's pullers. Thanks Edited by 56D500boy 2020-05-26 11:37 PM | ||
normsclassicradio |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 310 Location: Kalispell, MT USA | mikes2nd - 2020-05-26 8:37 PM so i tried pulling the rear hub off the axle and it broke my puller... 3 hours down the drain Even more reason to go out and find a new posi axle.. Im off to hunt at the pull a part. the cut down ford is 57.5... a little short but I can deal with offset and a spacer if i have to. I broke the same puller. I just drove the studs in and removed just the drum. I did however find one of the heavier pullers as pictured if I need to change the axle seals. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | I ordered a new puller. If it breaks it has a warranty. If i cant get it off I will leave it overnight. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012P0QV5K It was an older 60's puller. Cast iron but still very stout. A Henco? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-3-Jaw-Henco-Wheel-Hub-Puller-No-66/... here is the spray wand I used. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfisO8h8vYY | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10063 Location: So. Cal | That one works sometimes, if it isn't too stuck. The snap on or blue point 4567-G is the one I recommend. Right now the cheapest is $220 on Ebay, but they come up for $80-$150 if you are looking out for them. Edit: Found one for $90. Much better price. Someone buy it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-BLUE-POINT-HEAVY-DUTY-WHEEL-HUB-PUL... Edited by Powerflite 2020-05-27 7:16 PM | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10351 Location: Lower Mainland BC | mikes2nd - 2020-05-27 3:53 PM here is the spray wand I used. Thanks for the video link. 3M 08851 wand kit is definitely better than the Eastwood four-holer that I used with their cavity paint. Looks like I need to do that all over again - with the 3M wands. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2207 Location: Muskego, WI | Use some heat with the puller next time, that is the key. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2207 Location: Muskego, WI | Use some heat with the puller next time, that is the key. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | yeah tried heat, ill see if this puller works, heat, liquid wrench, let it sit overnight... ill whack it also | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | got the drum off... heat again. cheap amazon one works... its a hd version
picked up a Ford 8.8 rear end, 31 spline, 59.5 inches, ordered a new brakes kit, I will be using the stabilizer bar also on the rear end. Edited by mikes2nd 2020-06-06 9:10 PM | ||
bbdakota |
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Veteran Posts: 129 | 8.8 much better than those tapered axles! | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | that thing kicked my butt... but I got it out... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1Pj56zPD5Q | ||
bbdakota |
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Veteran Posts: 129 | Nice score! I'm curious as to why you took the axles out? Maybe to do the hot work on the axle tube? I didn't take my axles out to relocate the perches. No problems so far | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | im going to full rebuild the posi, clutch discs and stuff also. Ill check the end bearings. What pinion angle did you use? Did you just move the perches out 3 inches on each side(same angle) and weld it in? I was pretty shocked finding a nice posi in a junkyard. People usually grab these immediately. Did you hook up the parking brake? I know these tubes are fairly thin? they said dont put high heat on them. Ordering some brackets also, just ordered the lsd clutch pack kit. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ford-rear-axle/
Edited by mikes2nd 2020-06-11 11:00 AM | ||
bbdakota |
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Veteran Posts: 129 | Oh, that makes since. I measured the pinion angle of the old rear and set the 8.8 to match. I put mine in my 56, still have the emergency brake on the tail of the transmission so I didn't use the emergency brake on the rear | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3969 Location: DFW, TX | Nice job! I used a Fox body 8.8, converted to 5-lug. So I have drum brakes, but that allowed a Ranger e-brake setup that worked nicely. I also measured pinion angle from the stock Chrysler rear end, and matched that when welding on new leaf spring pads. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Okay went to summit... Farmtruck was there. Got new axle cover, gasket, new end seals, 3 quarts of 75w140, some cam breakin lube, two brackets. (200$) they are all covid'd up, customers not wearing masks.... clearance section is slim but they did have some nice mopar trans for 70% off. Original explorer pinion angle was 12, went with 6(same as dodge). I will cleanup and paint the springs. I started putting rust converter stuff on after i welded the spring perches on. Im going drag racing now I think, if the tranny (total unknown) is good, ill give it a shot. I am still waiting on the lsd discs but i will get it all painted and ready to go. I still have to check my stock ratio. I have a new torque converter also if I need it. Welding and grinding is a dirty job but no blood drawn today so it was all good. Moved perches 4.25 inches from the inner edge of the outer flange.
Edited by mikes2nd 2020-06-13 12:14 AM (AxleBracket.jpg) Attachments ---------------- AxleBracket.jpg (138KB - 387 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10063 Location: So. Cal | I don't like those mopar spring perches. They make the hole too big for some reason. It's odd because even the cars from the early 70's have smaller holes in them. Maybe the larger head bolt is available for that size hole, but I haven't found it. So I always purchase a different set with a smaller hole. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | yeah i saw that after the fact... i will put something to fill the hole a bit, either make a bushing or something and weld it in so its a nice fit. I wont have any play. I have to see about the rear stabilizer bar attachments | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Axle diff cleaned and clutch pack rebuild. I did get a new retainer spring from amazon so cant button it up today. Fricking pita... goes in tomorrow. its just good primer and rattle can but it works, i could have busted out the paint gun but would have been overkill a bit. Wasn't worn that bad, nice and clean, new seals, all painted, still have to resize those holes though. I put the stablizer bar on also. Im bummed i should have put 10 inch back brakes on it :( Still have to clean the caliper brackets and paint. I have a Torsion 2 rear diff I could throw in :) It cost me a grand but its very cool the way it works... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEiSTzK-A2A torque cap bolts to 70-85 ft lbs... https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/fordgearswap Edited by mikes2nd 2020-06-14 12:31 AM (axlepainted.jpg) Attachments ---------------- axlepainted.jpg (244KB - 390 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | taking way too much time... just annoying crap after more annoying crap... I'm trying to get the axles in.. got the lsd spring in one day delivery... decided to replace it, thought i was all ready to go... I forgot to order the dust shields.. Which are now discontinued, i should have went with the mustang brakes, those are plentiful. I was going to put the rear parking brakes in the car but now decided against it. My parking brake setup is new old stock so im not going to put the parking brake hardware in it. Pita to get the springs off and get them completely painted but its ready to go in. Hope they are okay, it goes in tomorrow come hell or high water, I still need to figure out a rear stabilizer bar hookup. I will get the brake lines next, start thinking about exhaust... get it all back on the ground and done underneath soon. The wiring, finish the cutting buffing and start the interior/glass and fire it up (springsdone.jpg) (Diff.jpg) Attachments ---------------- springsdone.jpg (240KB - 379 downloads) Diff.jpg (244KB - 380 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Houston we have a small problem... I might not be able to get the stablizer around the shocks... or i have to change the mount(move it out)? And I havent hooked the shocks up yet, i assume you guys got the extra distance. All in all its working out so far. I might make a bracket to bring the shocks in a bit, that would put them back in the original spot and maybe get around the stablizer bar issue Edited by mikes2nd 2020-06-16 1:08 PM (axleIn.jpg) Attachments ---------------- axleIn.jpg (216KB - 365 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Finishing rear axle today(couple hours) I will flare the brake lines also. going to get the rotors pads and calipers on also hopefully. I gave up on "dust shields"... not a big deal | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | Finishing rear axle today(couple hours) I will flare the brake lines also. going to get the rotors pads and calipers on also hopefully. I gave up on "dust shields"... not a big deal (rearaxle.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rearaxle.jpg (211KB - 374 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | got axles rotor calipers on... got the brake lines made. Explorer lines worked well, i have to weld some brackets on so i should have done that before hand, rear diff is ready to be filled with oil. Have to check about the friction modifier... I hook up the rear brakes, the whole rear will be done tomorrow. Spiffy slotted drilled rotors! nice shiny red calipers... no dust shields I will start "fitting" the driveshaft also. If I make some "extension brackets I can use the stabilizer bar to clear the shocks. I may still do that real quick. Pross: No brake adjustment needed, never dragging, simply install Easy brake changes Can use parking brake Easy cheap ratio changes posi/limited slip (performance) Performance Strength Ease of replacement Possible use of stabilzer bar cheap replacement parts(pads, rotors, calipers) etc vs original Cheap to rebuild posi
Lose center bump stop(possible to make one). Cost to buy axle and basic parts Cost/effort to put new perches on Speedo may be off(or you need new gear) if changing ratio. Lose "originality" But brake upgrades dont matter that much.
Edited by mikes2nd 2020-06-20 1:13 AM (RearBrakes.jpg) Attachments ---------------- RearBrakes.jpg (235KB - 394 downloads) | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3969 Location: DFW, TX | One more "pro" is that you will keep the same 4 5" bc bolt pattern and 1/2" right hand thread lug nuts. One possible "con" is that the Ford axle stub (the center protrusion) is bigger than the stock Mopar, so you won't be able to get an OEM wheel to fit over it. But you can easily find wheels of any size that will work, and most people swapping to a Ford rear end won't mind replacing the wheels. Edited by 57burb 2020-06-20 10:47 AM | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10063 Location: So. Cal | Easy cheap ratio changes is a con because you are comparing it to an 8 3/4 which, with the 9" & 8" Ford, are the kings of cheap easy ratio changes. The same could be said of strength. Another con is the cost of a new driveshaft & getting that Toyota designed flange for it. Another con is the offset pinion, which if you don't have bad angles from something else, will work, but it puts your angular offset more towards its limit of acceptance. From my point of view, the only positive this has going for it is a cheap way to get disc brakes. An 8 3/4 converted to disc has everything positive over this axle. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | yeah forgot about the left hand thread thing... I know people/shops rip the studs off these cars thinking its "being" stubborn and SNAP! Ratio changes aren't outrageous. Kind of a pain with the 8.8 but very cheap. Yes drive shaft change and flange, the flange normally comes with the axle. Its a strong ford flange btw There is offset to the original axle, its slight, i think it was 1.25 inches, the ford is 2 inches. Ive never seen a 8 3/4 posi axle in my life... These 8.8s are everywhere. Maybe if you go to Carlise or large mopar swap meet? but i doubt your getting that for 200$. | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10063 Location: So. Cal | Yeah, the sure grips are more expensive too, but readily available from swap meets or craigslist. I have 5 or 6 sure grip gear sets in my garage, but I don't really care to use them except in a performance oriented vehicle like my Barracuda. There's no need to install one in my DeSoto or New Yorker. They just reduce the fuel economy without adding much benefit for how these cars get used. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | hah of course you have 5 or 6... i saw a beat up old one for 600$ local... how do you even rebuild one? im going drag racing with my Hemi man... (brakesOn.jpg) Attachments ---------------- brakesOn.jpg (141KB - 392 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5116 | getting the underneath done finally... exhaust was 390$, headliner 330$... things are adding up a bit need to finish brake lines and measure driveshaft for cutting today. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74jHUC1Fnr4 | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3969 Location: DFW, TX | It all adds up! Just a couple of things I wanted to mention. It's good that that inline pump is easy to change out, because you'll be doing it all the time. I don't care where it was made, it just won't last as the only pump on a car. And it will probably struggle to feed that Hemi. The bright silver bolts and washers you have in the inner fender will jump right out, so you might want to hide them by spraying them with undercoat. And you will want more crankcase ventilation than just that cap. Do you still have the road draft tube at least? I would strongly suggest adding a PCV valve at the back of the valley pan. I did on my Hemi, and it made a pretty significant improvement in controlling oil vapor trying to push out of the spark plug tubes and everything else. Looking good, man... | ||
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