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Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-04-09 11:12 PM (#537729)
Subject: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Expert

Posts: 2038
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Location: Lower Mainland BC
Well bare metal more or less. I am working on one footwell at a time, right now it is the front passenger foot well. I was thinking of recoating it with one of those bedliner-type products. But one that dries, not that remains soft and stinky like tar. One that ends up with a texture but dries hard while remaining flexible. At least, that is my plan until you give me a better idea.

Maybe one of these: http://www.mechanicalcaveman.com/best-diy-truck-bed-liner-spray-on-...

Or this: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dupli-color-bed-armor-truck-bed-l...

or this: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ez-liner-truck-bed-coating-kit-04...
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Old Ray
Posted 2017-04-10 8:32 AM (#537756 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: RE: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



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Posts: 249
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Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains
I used the bed liner on my last project, sticks like crazy, but the sound deadening results are not great, and bad fumes (eye watering) for a couple of days then OK.

The guys with money use POR 15 (?) with excellent results and so should you.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-04-10 9:39 AM (#537764 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal


Expert

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those should work, have to worry about off gasing but they should all dry and shouldn't smell after that.

have you though about a por 15 ?

They also make spray on sound proofing.

And they also make inexpensive silver padding for heat and sound proofing. Some people use sticky roof tar paper with aluminum on one side. I would be worried about off gassing with that but I think some don't smell.

Go to home depot and use your nose I would expect most to off gas.

I have a couple gallons of quietcar. Its like lizard skin.

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plymouth
Posted 2017-04-10 10:18 AM (#537769 - in reply to #537764)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



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Location: McComb, Mississippi
I used por-15 with great results. I applied it liberally to the floors and only used half a quart. I let it cure for a week and then put n a layer of FatMat. I overlapped to try to keep moisure out. I removed the old firewall pad and used more of the same mentioned above. It really cut down on noise. Without the sound deadener, the car idled at 55 decibels. With the sound deadener, it is now 46 decibels.

Edited by plymouth 2017-04-10 10:20 AM
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johnnybiz
Posted 2017-04-10 10:29 AM (#537770 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: RE: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal


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I used por 15 it worked great it wont chip and you can paint right over it
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-04-10 11:44 AM (#537772 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Expert

Posts: 2038
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Location: Lower Mainland BC
Thanks. I knew about POR 15 but thought a) it's too ridgid and b) it wouldn't add any sound deadening. I guess that the bedliner would add some sound deadning but probably not enough. I was not aware of FatMax as an alternative to Dynamat. Dynamat is very pricy.



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-04-10 11:45 AM
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ronbo97
Posted 2017-04-10 12:56 PM (#537777 - in reply to #537772)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal


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Location: Connecticut

Over the weekend, I coated the floorboards of my 55 Desoto with Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint. Similar to POR-15. A few bucks cheaper, IIRC. Buy the Heavy Duty stuff. 

After a few hours, when the stuff had tacked up, I top coated with a rattle can of Rustoleum. Now it's going to dry for 48 hrs before I start reinstalling the interior.

Ron

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mstrug
Posted 2017-04-10 12:59 PM (#537778 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



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Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth)
I think summit racing has a Dynamat style deadener.

https://www.google.com/search?q=inexpensive+sound+deadening+material...
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Chrispy
Posted 2017-04-10 2:15 PM (#537783 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Extreme Veteran

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Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
This noico off amazon is the best bang for the buck i've found in peel and stick deadening that doesn't stink up your car. Its the finest in russian sound deadening lol

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Deadening-automotive-restoration-insula...
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-04-10 2:28 PM (#537785 - in reply to #537783)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Expert

Posts: 2038
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Location: Lower Mainland BC
With any of these Dynamat-style butyl/foil sound deadeners, can you apply carpet right over the material, i.e. onto the foil side, or do you need another form of padding under the carpet?

Remember I am a Noobie when I comes to car restoration, oops, I mean "improving" (over the current situation).

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Chrispy
Posted 2017-04-10 2:43 PM (#537787 - in reply to #537785)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



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Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
56D500boy - 2017-04-10 12:28 PM

With any of these Dynamat-style butyl/foil sound deadeners, can you apply carpet right over the material, i.e. onto the foil side, or do you need another form of padding under the carpet?

Remember I am a Noobie when I comes to car restoration, oops, I mean "improving" (over the current situation).

;)


When we did the 944 with it, we used a thin closed cell foam over the top of it just for that little bit of extra reduction and to prevent vibrations. That said, you should have no issues putting carpet directly on on the foil. Its a metal foil on top that you use a roller to appy and flatten the checkerboard in the foil, Spray your adhesive and apply the carpet right over it.

Do your doors. It makes a HUGE difference in road noise, since you have no door speakers you don't need to baffle the outer skin, but closing all of the openings with sound deadener really quiets things down. I would use the thin foam over the top on the door.

http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%252dTo.html

Edited by Chrispy 2017-04-10 2:45 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-04-10 4:27 PM (#537796 - in reply to #537787)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



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Location: So. California
Are you saying you noticed a huge improvement from covering the outer door skin or from covering the inner door skin? If you cover all the holes on the inner skin, what do you do if you need to pull the window or regulator out for some reason? These things tend to happen more often than I would like them to for various reasons.
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Old Ray
Posted 2017-04-10 4:30 PM (#537797 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: RE: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Veteran

Posts: 249
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Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains

Home made poor mans Lizard Skin.

I used Canadian Tire box liner as sound insulator base coating inside a pickup cab, but I mixed it with fiberglass microspheres (tiny air bubbles) that help as a heat insulator as well. Available at fiberglass supply shops cheap. It sticks, really sticks, watch out for the fumes while it is drying.

More info here:

http://www.canadianrodder.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16624

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johnsnowkornar
Posted 2017-08-25 10:35 AM (#546985 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: RE: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal


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Location: United States
Well uncovered metal pretty much. I am chipping away at one footwell at once. At any rate, that is my arrangement until the point when you give me a superior thought.
http://automobiledecor.com/best-spray-in-bed-liner-reviews/
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-08-25 11:53 AM (#546992 - in reply to #546985)
Subject: RE: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Expert

Posts: 2038
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Location: Lower Mainland BC
I've ended up using the spray bomb version of the Duplicolor bed armor. Looks good. Dried well. Feels good. WINNER (in my mind).

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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-08-25 1:24 PM (#547002 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal


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spray bed liner works great. I would go with the non abrasion kind and then follow up with stick em sound proofer.
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2017-08-25 3:30 PM (#547024 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



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Rustproofing aside, sound deadening takes a multilevel approach.
There's no one-type cure all here.

Just look at how the factory tackled stuff like this on luxury models;
They used heavy tar plates on the floorboards, followed by 0.5" to 1" thick foam, backed to another .5" thick carpetting.

Heavy tar plates prevent floorboards from vibrating / resonating with low frequencies.
Foam dampens the midlevel frequency (road)noises and the thick carpetting 'absords' a lot of the interior sounds.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-10-15 10:45 PM (#550357 - in reply to #547024)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Expert

Posts: 2038
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Location: Lower Mainland BC
Today (Sunday, Oct. 15) turned out much drier and warmer that I had anticipated so instead of finishing off the trunk divider panel project, I went after the remaining three footwells. Which is a good thing because earlier in the week I was successful in placing an order with Stock Interiors for a cut and sewn Bright Blue carpet set for my 56 Dodge. So working on the footwells was timely.

I had previously finished the right front (passenger) footwell with various rust paints (but not POR15) and the Duplicolor spray on bed liner. Today I started in the right rear foot well. First step was to cut away as much existing carpet and very thin foam underlay. It wasn't bad only a couple of spots that needed attention. I went at it with my portable drill and cup brush and got the few spots that needed attention. Then I painted those spots with ZeroRust Black. When I was dry I applied the first coat of bedliner. (Only the initial condition shows in the photo below).

Much the same for the left rear passenger footwell. This one was probably even better than the right one. One of the body to frame stainless steel bolts was it very good shape after a little wire cup brushing.

The driver's foot well wasn't as good. There had been some water leakage at some point (the kick panels were both bad). Nevertheless, 20 minutes (or less) with the cup brush in the drill and a little selective scraping improved matters greatly (followed by vacuuming with my Home Depot Ridgid 42 L shop vac) (very quiet). Then I painted the area with Rustoleum/Tremclad Professional gloss grey rust paint (it is very fast drying).

Tomorrow I will add the second coat of bedliner to the rear footwells and start coating the driver's footwell. I will source some less than the price of Dynamat sound deading. That stuff is way expensive. (I did use some in my driver's door after I rehabbed it).

Thanks for all your comments by the way. Some of those products that you suggested are not available up here in the Great White North.

Photos of today's work (I should say, while there is some surface rust, there is also some evidence of red oxide primer - doubt that that was originally there):





Edited by 56D500boy 2017-10-16 12:43 AM




(DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalRightRearPassengerFootwell.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalLeftRearPassengerFootwell.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalLeftRearPassengerFootwellDetail.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalDriversFootwell_Before.jpg)



(DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalDriversFootwell_After.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalRightRearPassengerFootwell.jpg (198KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalLeftRearPassengerFootwell.jpg (229KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalLeftRearPassengerFootwellDetail.jpg (246KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalDriversFootwell_Before.jpg (185KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments DaveFs56DodgeCustomRoyalDriversFootwell_After.jpg (146KB - 13 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-10-16 12:07 AM (#550361 - in reply to #537729)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal


Expert

Posts: 2206
2000100100
there is some excellent Dynamat competitors now.

I am trying out some Noico... its from Russia!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK

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59 in Calif
Posted 2017-10-16 11:33 AM (#550380 - in reply to #550357)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal


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Location: Hayward, Calif
From the looks of the pics and your description , you have just covered the rust issues. Rust needs to be 'killed' or the metal replaced. 'Rust Seal' is kinda like an acid that stops the oxidation process. It turn the rust black so you know it is working and can be painted over after drying. Should be able to buy it at a auto paint store. It's not to expensive, comes in a quart bottle. Try it you will be glad you did. Jerry
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-10-16 11:55 AM (#550382 - in reply to #550380)
Subject: Re: Suggestions re: covering floor pans after taking them to bare metal



Expert

Posts: 2038
200025
Location: Lower Mainland BC
59 in Calif - 2017-10-16 11:33 AM
From the looks of the pics and your description , you have just covered the rust issues. Rust needs to be 'killed' or the metal replaced. 'Rust Seal' is kinda like an acid that stops the oxidation process. It turn the rust black so you know it is working and can be painted over after drying. Should be able to buy it at a auto paint store. It's not to expensive, comes in a quart bottle. Try it you will be glad you did. Jerry


I did something like that on the right front passenger photo well. I used Rust Check brand "Rust Converter" spray. Turns the rust black and hard. I let it dry and then used Zero Rust paint and then the bed liner. That was so long ago (months) that I forgot to use the Rust Converter yesterday. Duh (LOL) Oops.

Oh well.

The under carriage is undercoated and this car will never see rain during my ownership (if I can help it) so the likelihood of further rusting in that drivers footwell is pretty low. That said, I will kick my butt for forgetting about the Rust Converter. I do have the two pieces of the driver's side footwell replacement metal should the next owner want to do that.



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