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'57 New Yorker Coupe
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-20 12:20 PM (#552770 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
I am thinking of using these marine hemi wire covers. They have a lot more room at the back of them so that you can fit larger size wires into them without squeezing them against the wire covers. I'm not sure how different they will look compared to the auto versions.



(Marine Wire Cover.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-24 5:39 PM (#553057 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
I made some progress with the extra time off. I got most of the firewall put back together except the accelerator pedal linkage. I made a gasket for the backside of the heater core from 3/16" rubber. and used the white firewall sealer goo stuff to finish it off. I wish that stuff was a different color now. I didn't think about that before I put it up there, but it is OK, just that it is very visible now against the black. But too late to change it. The blower motor housing is formed at a weird angle for some reason so that I ended up having to use 2 layers of sealer to get it to fill the gap - even with the stock rubber gasket that comes with the unit. Weird that it fits so poorly to the firewall. Makes me wonder if it was made for something else, but both my '57 Chrysler units are formed the same so I don't know what to think.

I installed the remote master cylinder with the remote reservoir on the firewall. It fits really nice there. I was originally going to anodize the reservoir black, but I have too much black in here so having something a little different is good. The master is setup for disc/disc so I have a 10lb residual pressure valve in the rear line under the steering box. It's really nice to get that inner fender out of my way and on the car again. Hopefully, I can spend tonight putting the motor back together. Any suggestions for the best way to get the brake switch wires back into the engine compartment? I might be able to squeeze them past the main wire feed....

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-24 5:41 PM




(57NY Firewall Coming Along.jpg)



(57NY Firewall Closer.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Firewall Closer.jpg (188KB - 7 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-24 10:05 PM (#553077 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Posts: 2262
20001001002525
which reservoir and master cylinder did you use?

It looks good with the old one. I may use my old one now.

You used the rope sealant(clay like stuff around the heater box)?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-24 10:37 PM (#553078 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
The remote master cylinder comes from Ebay here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/remote-fill-master-cylinder-street-rod-rat-...

Unfortunately, the reservoir that comes with it is just a little too wide to fit well. It will rub the bellows and hit the hood spring if you try to use it, but it might work with manual brakes. But the aluminum reservoir from Classic Performance Products fits much better there, and looks better. Unfortunately, it isn't cheap though, and they recently raised the price on it. The part number is RR2 and you can get it through summitracing.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLP-RR2

They changed the lid design to look a little better than what is shown in the picture.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-24 10:40 PM




(Remote Master.jpg)



(RR2 Reservoir.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-25 12:41 AM (#553085 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Posts: 2262
20001001002525
hmm I was thinking hydro boost brake master cylinder.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-29 12:04 PM (#553380 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
I modified the voltage regulator to work with an alternator and re-painted the lid. I basically just use it as a bus bar connection to keep the wiring and inner fender looking stock. The diagonal connections need to be tied together for the alternator so I do that within the regulator housing using a remnant of the original wires. I accidentally cut the wire a little too short out of the coil so I had to splice another piece onto it. You also need to cut out the resistors that tie the different connections together underneath the regulator housing. I will be using one of Rotton Lennard's stealth alternators that look like a generator.



Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-29 12:07 PM




(Modified VReg.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-07 1:04 AM (#553840 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
I got most of the bottom end of the motor put together. The new rods look a lot better in there than those massive 426 hemi rods & welded plates on the crank. I almost forgot to include the bushing underneath the rear main cap for the oil pump - mine was missing of course so I had to pull one from another motor until I can purchase a replacement. But good thing I reviewed the assembly first to catch that. I am going to try to use the hotheads windage tray. It wouldn't clear the 426 hemi rods before, but I am hoping that it will clear these new Scat rods. I'll find out soon enough. I hope to get the heads on by the end of the week.



(392w-440Rods.jpg)



(392 Windage.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 1:32 PM (#554167 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
I went shopping at the mall and bought these new oil pressure hoses. I decided to purchase enough for all my vehicles. They look to be very well made. I believe the one that's different is for the '58 Dodge or maybe the DeSoto, I'm not sure yet.

http://www.moparmall.com/1957-1958-1959-MoPar-Oil-Gauge-Hose-p/mv-6...

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-12 1:34 PM




(Oil Pressure Hoses.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 1:47 PM (#554168 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
I also got tired of doing a lot of cleanup on a bunch of misc. parts so I gathered them up and had them sandblasted. The exhaust manifolds were part of that bunch. After sandblasting, I painted them with Eastwood's exhaust manifold high-heat paint. Hopefully it lives up to it's reputation for staying on there. First, I tried brushing it on with a sponge brush, but that failed because the sponge just started coming apart very quickly due to a chemical reaction. So I finished them off with a regular bristle brush.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-12 11:19 PM




(Eastwoods Exhaust Paint.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2017-12-12 2:52 PM (#554170 - in reply to #554168)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 2187
2000100252525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
Looks good Nathan.

Aren't 1533 377 exhaust manifolds for the LC3-300, i.e. 300D?



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-12-12 3:07 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 4:58 PM (#554181 - in reply to #554170)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
Thanks Dave. Not quite. Same casting number, but the 300D manifolds had a clearanced section on them like in this picture. The manifolds I have were used in the large Dodge trucks with Chrysler hemi motors.



(300DManifolds.JPG)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-13 1:19 PM (#554224 - in reply to #554181)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3172
200010001002525
Location: DFW, TX
You may need to cleave off a hunk of those manifolds to fit.

I can tell you with some experience that even with the clearance, things get really tight really fast with the hi-po 300D manifolds in a '57-58 chassis.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-13 1:34 PM (#554226 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
When I mocked it up in my '58, it didn't look that bad. The '57 box is bigger in some places and smaller in others so it may be different, but does this look like what you experienced?



(Truck Exhaust & BrakeMC.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-13 4:32 PM (#554247 - in reply to #554226)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3172
200010001002525
Location: DFW, TX
I want to say my manifolds were somehow "higher" up the head than that (closer to the valve cover) and that's where it got tight. Your manifold seems way down there in the pic.

Also, your steering box is VERY different design than the ones that are in both of my '57 NYers. My box is a much larger casting than what you show there (see pic).

The space between my valve cover and master cylinder is pretty close to what you have though - just about none!

The other area of concern was the pass-side upper control arm clearance to the manifold. Although on mine, it is pretty far away. About an inch.

I just looked in all my mock up photos and I don't have anything that shows this clearance clearly on both sides. I'll be able to get some pictures for you when I get the engine back in the car.



(20170315_120548.jpg)



(20170315_120549.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-13 7:23 PM (#554269 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert

Posts: 3629
2000100050010025
Location: So. California
Thanks Danny. That relief looks really overkill for the right side. I wouldn't use that manifold there because it will reduce your performance for no good reason. I would also be inclined to modify the edge of the control arm mount to clear the truck manifold rather than compromise the exhaust that much. But the left side is a different story. We'll see how it goes when I get it in there.

I fabbed up a baffle for my oil pan today. I put a 392 hemi into a '68 Barracuda when I was 16 and had a lot of fun with it. Back then I had to be careful about how hard I launched the car while going up even a small hill because I could easily lose oil pressure. I hope that this baffle will prevent that, although I don't know if I will have the same issues in this large barge. I designed it so that you have to insert the oil pickup with the pan towards the rear, and then scoot the pan forward after the pickup is inside the baffle. I did this to maximize the amount of coverage that it makes to the backside of the pan. I put oil drain holes in the rear corners and also in one spot on the front. I didn't put it on the other front side because I figure the oil can flow over the top of the baffle to the big access hole there. I am going to tack weld it in 9 places so that I could remove it in the future if it becomes necessary.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-13 9:00 PM




(392 Hemi Pan Baffle Notes.jpg)



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Attachments 392 Hemi Pan Baffle Notes.jpg (185KB - 1 downloads)
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