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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
  
Location: Sydney, Australia | Can anyone help with the timing numbers of a 1969 383 with a mild cam? Also my carb is a 600 or 650 edelbrock.
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Expert
Posts: 3393
 
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Around 10-12 base and 36 total at 3000, without the vacuum advance should be in the ball park. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Shep - 2016-11-19 5:05 PM
Around 10-12 base and 36 total at 3000, without the vacuum advance should be in the ball park.
Great thanks mate.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | I'm a bit lost on buying a timing light. I'll probably use it once in a blue moon so looking for a cheapo one. They range from $20 and go all the way up..
The thing is to do the 2 settings do I need to buy one with advanced settings or just one that reads the white line? I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to these..
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | No one used a timing light?
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Veteran
Posts: 158
Location: Ottawa, ON | One thing my dad once told me (especially when it comes to tools): if you buy cheap you will end an buying double. My advice is spend a little more and by an adjustable one |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Polara61_383 - 2016-11-21 5:35 PM
One thing my dad once told me (especially when it comes to tools): if you buy cheap you will end an buying double. My advice is spend a little more and by an adjustable one
Is the adjustable ones, I need to do initial timing and total timing? Sorry I know nothing about timing and timing lights..
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Expert
Posts: 3393
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Actron makes a reasonably priced set back timing lite. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Shep - 2016-11-19 5:05 PM
Around 10-12 base and 36 total at 3000, without the vacuum advance should be in the ball park.
Hey Dave can you explain the procedure or is it too lengthy?
I understand that I would set the light to 36 then bring the revs up and the white line should be inline with the arrow but I don't understand base or actually the whole thing.
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Veteran
Posts: 158
Location: Ottawa, ON | [url]http://www.mopar1.us/engine2.html Here is a good article on timing and adjustments.
I don't really know the specs for a 69 B-Block, but here is what worked best for me: You'll need either a static timing light and timing tape or an adjustable timing light (preferred). Start with a warm engine and shut it off. Then you pull and plug the vacuum advance (you could test now if the diaphragm is still good by either sucking on it or using a vacuum pump). Next step is to hook up the timing light to the ignition wire of cyl. 1 and slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Then start the engine. Set the timing light to 36°BTDC (You could even start with 38°, depends on several factors like mixture, compression ratio etc. etc.) and have someone hold the engine at steady 3000 rpm. Now while looking at the marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing cover with the timing light you start to twist the distributor so that they line up. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt, reset your idle speed to spec and check your initial timing (now you want to look at the marks on the balancer and cover but now you start adjusting the timing light until they line up). You can now read the initial timing from the timing light (should be somewhere around 10°BTDC). Then tighten everything once more, remove the timing light and do some test runs and listen for pinging/knocking. For this you want to get the engine fully warmed up and in the highest gear try to accelerate hard on an uphill grade. If there is no pinging you are done (or could even advance the timing a little more). If you can hear pinging retard the timing in 2° steps and repeat. With this procedure you'll end up with the ideal perfomance timing for your engine. This is not neccessarily what the manual wants. For my 383 I ended up with 37°BTDC at 3.000 rpm and 14-15° at 550 rpm. |
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Expert
Posts: 3393
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Polara61_383 - 2016-11-22 4:27 AM
[url]http://www.mopar1.us/engine2.html Here is a good article on timing and adjustments.
I don't really know the specs for a 69 B-Block, but here is what worked best for me: You'll need either a static timing light and timing tape or an adjustable timing light (preferred). Start with a warm engine and shut it off. Then you pull and plug the vacuum advance (you could test now if the diaphragm is still good by either sucking on it or using a vacuum pump). Next step is to hook up the timing light to the ignition wire of cyl. 1 and slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Then start the engine. Set the timing light to 36°BTDC (You could even start with 38°, depends on several factors like mixture, compression ratio etc. etc.) and have someone hold the engine at steady 3000 rpm. Now while looking at the marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing cover with the timing light you start to twist the distributor so that they line up. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt, reset your idle speed to spec and check your initial timing (now you want to look at the marks on the balancer and cover but now you start adjusting the timing light until they line up). You can now read the initial timing from the timing light (should be somewhere around 10°BTDC). Then tighten everything once more, remove the timing light and do some test runs and listen for pinging/knocking. For this you want to get the engine fully warmed up and in the highest gear try to accelerate hard on an uphill grade. If there is no pinging you are done (or could even advance the timing a little more). If you can hear pinging retard the timing in 2° steps and repeat. With this procedure you'll end up with the ideal perfomance timing for your engine. This is not neccessarily what the manual wants. For my 383 I ended up with 37°BTDC at 3.000 rpm and 14-15° at 550 rpm. . Good way to set it up. |
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Expert
Posts: 2519
Location: central Illinois | Shep - 2016-11-22 7:33 AM
Polara61_383 - 2016-11-22 4:27 AM
[url]http://www.mopar1.us/engine2.html Here is a good article on timing and adjustments.
I don't really know the specs for a 69 B-Block, but here is what worked best for me: You'll need either a static timing light and timing tape or an adjustable timing light (preferred). Start with a warm engine and shut it off. Then you pull and plug the vacuum advance (you could test now if the diaphragm is still good by either sucking on it or using a vacuum pump). Next step is to hook up the timing light to the ignition wire of cyl. 1 and slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Then start the engine. Set the timing light to 36°BTDC (You could even start with 38°, depends on several factors like mixture, compression ratio etc. etc.) and have someone hold the engine at steady 3000 rpm. Now while looking at the marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing cover with the timing light you start to twist the distributor so that they line up. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt, reset your idle speed to spec and check your initial timing (now you want to look at the marks on the balancer and cover but now you start adjusting the timing light until they line up). You can now read the initial timing from the timing light (should be somewhere around 10°BTDC). Then tighten everything once more, remove the timing light and do some test runs and listen for pinging/knocking. For this you want to get the engine fully warmed up and in the highest gear try to accelerate hard on an uphill grade. If there is no pinging you are done (or could even advance the timing a little more). If you can hear pinging retard the timing in 2° steps and repeat. With this procedure you'll end up with the ideal perfomance timing for your engine. This is not neccessarily what the manual wants. For my 383 I ended up with 37°BTDC at 3.000 rpm and 14-15° at 550 rpm. . Good way to set it up.
Agreed! Polara nailed it. Like he said, pay attention to the vacuum advance and be sure it operates correctly. Makes a huge difference in off the line performance and gas mileage. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Thanks Polara that's exactly thats the explanation I needed. I would watch or read the how to adjust..... and it would miss an explantation out or I would just get lost.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | So much on my plate these last few months, I'm only getting back to attempt the timing now.
What RPM should a 1967 4 BRL Carb 383 idle at? When setting the idle should it be in Drive or Neutral? No Air Con.
Edited by matte 2017-04-03 11:48 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3393
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | About 500-550 in neutral. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Shep - 2017-04-04 6:04 PM
About 500-550 in neutral.
Thanks mate.... Once again you've helped out and given the information. True enthusiast, like a handful of others.
Edited by matte 2017-04-04 8:01 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | More silly questions to add to my bag
When pulling the vacuum advance diaphragm tube off the carb so I can connect the vacuum gauge to the carb, do I need to plug the diaphragm end?
Also when doing the timing I plug the diaphragm tube but do I also plug the carby as well?
Edited by matte 2017-04-07 5:40 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 158
Location: Ottawa, ON | You just need to plug the tube that goes into the carb. |
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Timing on a 383
