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'55 Plaza Suburban arrives today Jump to page : < 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ... > Now viewing page 4 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> 1955-1961 Forward Look MoPar General Discussion | Message format |
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I started fitting the sewn headliner I got from Newstalgia. I'm realizing I'm far more comfortable with the mechanical than trim work. It's going to be very "fiddly" trying to get this thing looking right. I'm now certain it's not a one-person job. (Plaza sewn headliner.jpg) (Plaza sewn headliner (2).jpg) (Plaza sewn headliner (3).jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza sewn headliner.jpg (107KB - 446 downloads) Plaza sewn headliner (2).jpg (92KB - 479 downloads) Plaza sewn headliner (3).jpg (83KB - 445 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I don't know why my photos look fine on my computer but sometimes flip sideways when I post them. I re-cropped the photo and am trying again. (Plaza sewn headliner (3).jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza sewn headliner (3).jpg (52KB - 449 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Pretty sure the dome light needs to come out/off BEFORE you install the headliner. Good luck. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | There's plenty of room to snatch it out of there. I had a hodge podge of bows from two different cars and I needed to figure out which bow fit best where. I'll pull the domelight before I start pinning/gluing anything in place. Edited by 71charger_fan 2017-05-31 8:21 PM | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | Putting this thing in is endlessly tedious. It's coming along though. (Plaza Headliner Install.jpg) (Plaza Headliner Install (2).jpg) (Plaza Headliner Install (3).jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza Headliner Install.jpg (88KB - 425 downloads) Plaza Headliner Install (2).jpg (77KB - 434 downloads) Plaza Headliner Install (3).jpg (90KB - 441 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Good for you for doing it yourself. I did one for a VW bug about 30yrs ago, and that was enough for me! | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I still have to figure out how to trim it over the middle windows. | ||
moparsteve |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1155 Location: somerville mass | ive seen this post since the beginning and havent commented but will now.. nice little wagon! not many 55 2 dr suburban wagons left... did it come stock w the wood grain? those stickers on the glass are from the past... flathead 6 or v-8... first v-8 offered in 55. i see your doing a full restoration... i can imagine how nice it will be.. if your into 55s in the ebay section a 55 belvedere conv. was just posted .. looks rough sitting a long time.. cant wait to see your wagon finished! 71 charger? rt? 440 440 six pak? hemi? | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | The wood grain is airbrushed. It's a 230 flathead. My '71 is an SE. It was a 383-2V with 4-wheel manual drum brakes and a 2.45 open rear. It's now got a .030-over 400 with an Edelbrock carb, 4-wheel discs, 3.55 sure grip 8.75 rear, tubular front suspension and k-frame, R/T tail lights, and a bulge hood off a '74 Rallye. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I made a pattern out of cardboard and marked it on some 1" wide aluminum to make headliner trim for over the middle windows. Car show tomorrow, so I hope to get them installed on Sunday and finish out this headliner. (Plaza headliner trim (2).jpg) (Plaza headliner trim.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza headliner trim (2).jpg (72KB - 418 downloads) Plaza headliner trim.jpg (70KB - 413 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | moparsteve - 2017-06-08 2:02 PM 71 charger? rt? 440 440 six pak? hemi? Since you asked, this is my '71 and our two '15 Challengers. (Charger & Co..jpg) Attachments ---------------- Charger & Co..jpg (101KB - 441 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | Making progress. (Plaza headliner.jpg) (Plaza headliner (2).jpg) (Plaza headliner (3).jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza headliner.jpg (84KB - 420 downloads) Plaza headliner (2).jpg (144KB - 414 downloads) Plaza headliner (3).jpg (105KB - 428 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | The rear view mirror was nasty. Rusty in places, the finish was cracked, and there was 60 years of dirt, tar, and nicotine built up on it. I scrubbed it, sanded it, primed it, and painted it in satin black to match the rest of what I've got going on color wise. (Plaza mirror.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza mirror.jpg (107KB - 429 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Looking good. I like the perforated material (vinyl?). What did you do for insulation above the headliner, attached to the underside of the roof? | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I know I should have put something up there, but I didn't. It's just bare steel. | ||
Viper Guy |
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Expert Posts: 2002 Location: Branson, MO | Great job! I tried to replace a headliner on a 1960 Chrysler I had but wound up having it done at an upholstery shop. Not enough patience and I didn't want to screw it up. By the way, it wasnt a wagon either which is probably even more challenging. Congrats on a job well done. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | My '55 sun visors were shot and the brackets were corroded. I painted the brackets in satin black to match the mirror and touched up a pair of extra '71 Charger visors and used them. (Plaza Sun Visors.jpg) (Plaza Sun Visors (2).jpg) (Plaza Sun Visor Bracket Dr Side.jpg) (Plaza Sun Visor Bracket Pass Side.jpg) (Plaza Sun Visor pass side.jpg) (Plaza Sun Visor.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza Sun Visors.jpg (84KB - 425 downloads) Plaza Sun Visors (2).jpg (80KB - 412 downloads) Plaza Sun Visor Bracket Dr Side.jpg (70KB - 424 downloads) Plaza Sun Visor Bracket Pass Side.jpg (148KB - 410 downloads) Plaza Sun Visor pass side.jpg (120KB - 416 downloads) Plaza Sun Visor.jpg (94KB - 410 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | Today, I got up the nerve to slice the headliner to install the LED dome light. I also wired two small LED spots into the dome light circuit and put them in the back on either side of the tailgate. (Plaza LED Dome Light (2).jpg) (Plaza LED Spot.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza LED Dome Light (2).jpg (90KB - 419 downloads) Plaza LED Spot.jpg (73KB - 409 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I lost the nuts to the lower left dash trim. Just my luck, they're #12-24 studs. I've never in my life needed a 12-24 nut. Local stores didn't carry that size, so I wound up buying an entire box just to reattach this piece of trim. (Plaza Dash Trim (2).jpg) (Plaza Dash Trim Nuts.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza Dash Trim (2).jpg (78KB - 411 downloads) Plaza Dash Trim Nuts.jpg (128KB - 417 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Thanks for reminding me. I knew I needed some 12-24 hardware, but couldn't remember what for. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I tried a test drive and realized after hearing an unpleasant sound that something was amiss. The alternator pulley was just enough out of alignment that it spit the belt off. So, I aligned the pulley and went to AutoZone and bought a new belt. Unfortunately, the listed belt is too short for my alternator conversion. So, for now, I'll have to reuse the old belt. (Plaza belt failure.jpg) (Plaza belt too short.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza belt failure.jpg (128KB - 422 downloads) Plaza belt too short.jpg (92KB - 426 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I have not been able to get a hard brake pedal. It's been driving me nuts. I got another new MC. Application says for '73 Charger manual discs. I bench bled it, installed it, pushed a quart of fluid through the lines and still have a mushy pedal. I think I'll pull it out, bench bleed it again, bleed the lines again, and hope for the best. If that doesn't work, I may give up and have it flat bedded somewhere they can pressure bleed it from the wheels to the MC and see if that finally fixes it. (Plaza New MC.jpg) (Plaza New MC Bench Bleed.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza New MC.jpg (139KB - 425 downloads) Plaza New MC Bench Bleed.jpg (126KB - 410 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | After experimenting with several different length belts, I think I finally hit the sweet spot. (Plaza Belt.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza Belt.jpg (155KB - 399 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | I wouldn't bother taking the brakes somewhere else. I have installed 100's of master cylinders during the days when I worked as a brake mechanic and never had a single issue with them back in the early 90's. Now, it is hard to get a good one off the shelf. New master cylinders are typically worse than rebuilt, but still not a guarantee. I don't know what happened with it, but they are obviously cutting corners with the seals in them somewhere. I recommend you take it back to the auto parts store and get a rebuilt one to try instead. Get your money back. Expensive returns are the only way to get the message back to these crappy manufacturers that it doesn't pay to sell crap. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I finally clamped off my rubber hoses and got a hard pedal. I unclamped the fronts one at a time and the pedal stayed rock hard. I unclamped the rear line and the pedal went to the floor. Wasted the day trying to bleed the air out of it. I even made a new piece of steel brake line from the tee on the rear axle to the left rear wheel cylinder. The right rear seems to bleed out fine and give me nice clear fluid. The left rear, however, constantly has small bubbles in it and sometimes is almost foamy. My new suspicion is that my new Chinesium wheel cylinder might be a piece of crap. I think I'll head over to NAPA tomorrow and pick up a new wheel cylinder, swap out the left rear and hope that finally fixes it. (phpJo08DdPM.jpg) Attachments ---------------- phpJo08DdPM.jpg (87KB - 446 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | There was some minor seepage at the left rear wheel cylinder so I switched it out. The pedal is better, but still not where I think it should be. However, I think I can tweak the adjustment of the brake shoes. I'm hoping if I adjust the shoes so that the drum drags, then just back off a hair, it might just cure the problem. Eventually, I might just take my flange-to-flange measurement to the junk yard and see what Ford/Mopar rear axle I can find to just swap out and get more modern, easier-to-adjust brakes. Maybe even rear discs. It was very disappointing to buy "NAPA Ultra Premium Brake Parts" and still wind up with the "made in China" on the box. However, the seals on the NAPA part seemed much better than those on the Centric I pulled off. Edited by 71charger_fan 2017-07-05 8:31 PM (Plaza Wheel Cylinder Box.jpg) (Plaza Wheel Cylinder.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza Wheel Cylinder Box.jpg (114KB - 396 downloads) Plaza Wheel Cylinder.jpg (128KB - 400 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | Trying to get a hard brake pedal on this car is driving me mad. I decided to again pull the drums and verify the setting of the shoes. Previously, I just did the best I could without the proper gauge. Today, I made a gauge out of some flat aluminum and a long 1/4-20 screw with the head cut off. Using this, I realized I was off by quite a bit getting the heel of the shoes where they needed to be. So, now, I've got the shoes set as close as I can get them to factory spec. After pushing over 7 quarts of brake fluid through this system, I still don't have the pedal I feel I should have and still get some bubbles when I bleed. I've got a buddy coming over tomorrow with a vacuum bleeder. I have one that runs off the compressor, but can't get a decent seal on the bleeder nipple with it, so it pulls air around the bleeder fitting. (Plaza brake gauge.jpg) (Plaza brake gauge (2).jpg) (Plaza brake rear.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza brake gauge.jpg (122KB - 401 downloads) Plaza brake gauge (2).jpg (96KB - 408 downloads) Plaza brake rear.jpg (113KB - 401 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | You should re-tighten your lines, especially if you have made a new line with a new flare. Oftentimes these can leak slightly, giving you some air into the line. | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | You could try some plumbers thread seal tape on the thread of the bleeder to create a seal. I have done this and it works. This has a secondary positive outcome. It keeps the brake fluid out of the threads. Another trick is to bump the slave cylinder with a rubber/plastic hammer to bounce any air pockets/bubbles up to the bleeder port. I am liking your posts, as I do all the guys threads who post info and pics of their progress. Nice work 71. Steve. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Attention, your brake hose is too short - it's stretching which is not a good thing. | ||
Old Ray |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 507 Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | 60 Imp - 2017-07-10 5:48 AM You could try some plumbers thread seal tape on the thread of the bleeder to create a seal. Steve. ...........umm .............doesn't the bleeder seal on the taper of the bleeder screw? | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | That was supposedly the "correct" replacement brake hose. Fortunately, it only pulls tight at full suspension drop. While the bleeder does seal on the taper of the bleeder screw, air often can sneak past the bleeder screw threads. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7385 Location: northern germany | Old Ray - 2017-07-10 11:56 AM 60 Imp - 2017-07-10 5:48 AM You could try some plumbers thread seal tape on the thread of the bleeder to create a seal. Steve. ...........umm .............doesn't the bleeder seal on the taper of the bleeder screw? :) yes, but when you bled the system you have to open the screws and the thread is not supposed to let any air pass then. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I ordered new brake line tubing and plan to (again) re-plumb the brake lines from the proportioning valve back. I'll also replace the Centric wheel cylinder on the right side with a NAPA one and replace the brake hose. I think I'll also relocate the frame mounting point for the brake hose to put it closer to the axle as it shouldn't be stretched tight when the car is jacked up. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | Until today, it's been too hot in the garage since Carlisle to work on the Plymouth. I finally got around to replacing the right rear wheel cylinder with another new one from NAPA and making up new rear axle brake lines. I looked, but couldn't find a rear axle brake tee listed for a '55. I saw one at Inline Tube listed for '59 to '76 8.75 rear. I ordered one and it was an exact duplicate of the '55 brake tee. I also picked up another new rear rubber line, but it's no longer than the existing one. I'm trying to make a bracket to move the brake hose mounting bracket inboard a few inches to hopefully put some slack in the line when the car is on a lift. (phpRLf23KPM.jpg) (php9tug4WPM.jpg) (php4TnR6NPM.jpg) (phpYibaudPM.jpg) (phpOSj3rFPM.jpg) Attachments ---------------- phpRLf23KPM.jpg (107KB - 390 downloads) php9tug4WPM.jpg (77KB - 383 downloads) php4TnR6NPM.jpg (96KB - 377 downloads) phpYibaudPM.jpg (105KB - 419 downloads) phpOSj3rFPM.jpg (128KB - 384 downloads) | ||
LostDeere59 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 406 Location: Hilltown, PA | Oh dear lord please tell me that isn't copper line . . . . !!! | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | It's copper-nickel brake line tubing. | ||
LostDeere59 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 406 Location: Hilltown, PA | 71charger_fan - 2017-07-25 10:19 PM It's copper-nickel brake line tubing. I need to ask - what is that? I'm only familiar with the steel brake line, and here in PA that is the only legally acceptable brake line material. Well, stainless is also acceptable. Please fill me in . . . Gregg | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | It's original equipment on some European cars. It's much more easily formed than steel, especially stainless steel. It's highly rust resistant both internally and externally. https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-line... http://copperalliance.org.uk/docs/librariesprovider5/resources/is49... | ||
Old Ray |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 507 Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | ....or even better (IMO) is Poly-Vinyl Fluorine coated. http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/poly-armour/ | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | That must be what the brake lines in my Jeep Commander are. They look like plastic. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | The new NAPA hose I picked up was the exact same length as the one I had on the car that was stretched overly tight when the car was jacked up. I used some scrap I had in the garage to make a bracket and spaced the bracket where the hose and hard line join off of the frame rail. It was just enough to allow the line to rest without being stretched. (phpsy3cEIPM.jpg) Attachments ---------------- phpsy3cEIPM.jpg (141KB - 394 downloads) | ||
LostDeere59 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 406 Location: Hilltown, PA | Thank you for the links. I've never heard of this material, but the information you provided makes it sound like a much better alternative. I'll have to see if it's readily available around me, or locate some online. I assume it works with standard double-flare fittings and is otherwise "drop-in" compatible with everything else in the system. You project is very cool and makes for great reading, especially with all the photos you've taken. Thanks for sharing a lot of great information Gregg | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I bought a 25' coil of it plus an assortment of fittings for $28.45 from Ebay. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I'm at the point of buying and installing a 3rd new master cylinder. A friend of mine came by Thursday and we spent the afternoon bleeding the brakes. I can pump the pedal and make it feel okay, but just getting in and pushing the pedal, it goes to the floor. I used my Mityvac bleeder that works with the compressor and pulled fluid until I saw no more bubbles. My buddy came by and we used his Mityvac hand pump and pulled a few more reservoirs full through the lines. Then we bled all four corners by me pushing the pedal and him working the bleeder screws. We pushed almost another quart through the system. We went over the system, component by component, and found no leaks. I have new calipers, new front hoses, all new hard lines, new proportioning valve, new wheel cylinders (again), new master cylinder (again), new rear hose (again), and new brake tee. This is driving me nuts. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Did you "bench bleed" the master cylinder before installing it? (I made that mistake back in Nov. so don't feel bad). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEPXgDGU6_0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOTkVAeU_n4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USdtwqju4GY Edited by 56D500boy 2017-07-29 12:08 PM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Like I said before, make sure you get your money back on it. We all need to send a message that they are going to pay to sell this kind of garbage. Me and multiple people I know have had similar issues with brand new crap master cylinders recently. | ||
LostDeere59 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 406 Location: Hilltown, PA | In my experience, when you run into something like this where you've been over the thing a dozen times and still can't find the issue, it's usually something so basic you keep assuming it's ok, but it isn't. So . . . You did a disc brake conversion - Are you using a disc brake master cylinder, and using the correct outlet for front/rear? Sounds silly but remember the drum brake side usually has a check valve that prevents complete fluid return to the M/C for the purpose of keeping a firm pedal. Generally the large reservoir is for the disc brake, but just to make it fun not always. Is the proportioning valve you're using for disc brakes, and is the orientation correct - both in terms of disc/drum AND in/out? Are your calipers mounted properly in relation to the discs? Low pedals that pump up often indicate that there is excessive "play" in the system someplace - meaning you need to move a bunch of fluid before the friction materials make solid contact with the drum/rotor. Calipers that are skewed in relation to the rotor, loose wheel bearings, and anything else that disturbs the needed "almost touching" relationship of friction material to contact surface can cause a low pedal. Are your calipers "over-returning". Rare, but I have seen rebuilt/reman calipers that for whatever reason actually pulled the disc pads away from the rotor. This should never happen - there is always some lateral runout in the rotor and this is used along with the natural pull-back of the square-cut o-ring on the caliper piston to barely retract the pad. Light drag is expected. But I have seen calipers that must have had a rolled o-ring that would actually pull the pad a notable distance from the rotor. Is your pedal to master cylinder linkage adjusted correctly? When doing custom installations it can be difficult to gauge that adjustment sometimes. Maybe what you perceive as a low pedal is really just the take-up of an improper adjustment. If you adjust the pedal so that you get good pedal application height are the brakes dragging? When you apply the pedal are you getting immediate movement of the brake shoes and pads, or are you stroking the M/C some distance before the fluid reacts? I find it difficult to believe that after 3 M/C's and all of that bleeding that you have a air issue. Are you still getting air when you bleed? If so where? I've seen faulty line flares, defects in fittings, and even calipers that will draw air in when the pedal returns. Unless you ended up with an unfortunate line arrangement that has a high spot/loop that is holding air, or you continue to find air when you bleed, I would focus on a mechanical issue rather than a hydraulic one. Good luck - I'll be curious to hear the solution. Gregg Edited by LostDeere59 2017-07-29 5:04 PM | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | I've got a reverse bleeder coming. I'll try pushing fluid from the wheel cylinders. If that doesn't work, I'm paying someone to figure it out. Meanwhile, I've started fitting new interior panels. (Plaza side panel.jpg) (Plaza side panel (2).jpg) (Plaza side panel (3).jpg) Attachments ---------------- Plaza side panel.jpg (93KB - 388 downloads) Plaza side panel (2).jpg (78KB - 387 downloads) Plaza side panel (3).jpg (67KB - 392 downloads) | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | This arrived today. I'm going to start by clamping off the rear brake hose. Then, use my bottle jack to get one rear wheel higher than the other then push brake fluid from the low side to the high side. That should, once and for all, eliminate the question of whether there's air caught in the hump of the rear line. Following that, I'll push some fluid up and out the MC with the front end elevated. I really hope this gets it once and for all. (phpSBq5ZmPM.jpg) Attachments ---------------- phpSBq5ZmPM.jpg (116KB - 395 downloads) | ||
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