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Regular
Posts: 51
Location: Grass Valley,CA. | The 56 Ney Youker I bought recently runs like a sick dog. I suspect the carb. I am wondering if anyone can recommend a new replacement carb for the 354 Hemi or someone that rebuilds or sell a good rebuilt WCFB2314SA >
Thanks in advance.
Reg
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
 
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | There are plenty of specialty rebuilder in the game and a quick web search should reveal them.
I'll suggest http://www.harmsauto.com/ |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9664
 
Location: So. Cal | Where is your advance set to? You might try increasing it to get better response. |
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Expert
Posts: 3776
Location: NorCal |
If you only "suspect" the carb why not be sure before shopping for a new carb?
If you're not concerned with originality, a newer Edelbrock with an adapter plate is one option. |
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Regular
Posts: 51
Location: Grass Valley,CA. | I haven't checked the timing yet. Need to find the timing marks. 4 before TDC right ?
Thanks guys !
I've ordered a new set of plug wires but the plugs I pulled to check were gaped at 35 and had a nice light brown color to the electrode.
The exhaust is very stinky but there isn't any black smoke.
The engine kinda has a chug chug chug sound like a train and sounds and feels like it's running on only 6 or 7 cylinders most of the time.
Did I mention....I HATE WHERE THE DISTRIBUTOR IS LOCATED.
I'm not that concerned with the originality of the carb but I don't want to do a bunch of jerry rigging to make it work so how would I know which Edelbrock to buy. Has anyone here used one. If so which one ? |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9664
Location: So. Cal | I don't set the timing with a light. I set it where it responds the best, then test drive it. If it begins to ping when going slow up hill, I back it off until I reach an optimum point. Takes longer, but puts it where I want it instead of where a book tells me to put it. That point is usually around 5-10 degrees before TDC.
I like the old Carters better than the Edelbrocks. They are pretty much the same thing, except I've had more trouble with the Edelbrock's quality. My favorite is actually the old original AVS carbs. That's what I run. Getting the linkage mounted to the right spot and getting a new air cleaner are the only parts that aren't a bolt-on....oh, and you will probably want to run an electric choke as I believe that the original takes hot exhaust up to the carb, and I don't think that will work with the new carb.
Edited by Powerflite 2016-11-08 6:45 PM
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Expert
Posts: 2524
Location: Houston | I used to never use a light either...and for total advance I still am willing to do without one. But....you really need to use one to properly set up the engine.
A timing light can help you identify that your distributor advance weights are stuck, the vac advance is working, etc.
My guess is the advance mechanism is gummed up from age and is causing the engine to run poopy.
I'd make sure the advance is working properly, the vac can is not stuck or leaky, and I'd set the timing at (around)12 degrees initial with the vac advance disconnected. I'd set the total advance at 32-34 degrees. Then I'd reconnect the vac advance and expect to see the initial increase to 25 degrees or so. In order for that to happen, the vac advance needs to be connected directly to manifold vacuum - none of the BS 'ported' advance used on emissions carbs. Trust me..it'll run hard then.
Read this, too:
http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm
Edited by GregCon 2016-11-08 11:29 PM
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Regular
Posts: 51
Location: Grass Valley,CA. | My next move will probably be to do a compression test. I had a 315 Poly loose some lobes on the cam a few years ago and this engine might have the same problem.
Hope not !!! The darn seller on eBay lied about it being a good runner.
Here's his description on the auction.
1956 Chrysler New Yorker Two Door Hardtop 354 Hemi
STOCK - This 56 Chrysler 2 door Hardtop has a stock 354 Hemi V8 with single four barrel carburetor, PowerFlite 2 Speed automatic Transmission, Air Conditioning, Power Steering, Brakes, Windows and power Seats.
I have owned this car for Fifteen years, This is a California built car, see VIN Number: N56L4573. it has NO Body RUST, NONE!
I put a lot of hard work and money in this car, the paint was new in 2015, the engine runs great, we replace the head gasket set and rebuilt the carburetor, the transmission is in great shape as is the third member and I redid the brake system. the Carpet is New and has a New Trunk Kit. All this car needs is a little upholstery work!
Great: "Steering Wheel and Horn Ring"
All in all this is a great find, can be driven as is or you can trick it out by redoing the stock upholstery, ( back seat is perfect but has water stain), front seat drivers bottom is ripped and needs to be replaced. Chrome is good and Bumpers have no dents.
A/C and AM Radio needs some work! |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | IF it is the carburetor, buy a $60 rebuild kit and do it yourself. Guys like me did this kind of simple work which is why cars like yours have survived. Royze in Garden Grove has your carb kit. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 520
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado | Do the carb rebuild and check that the distributor is working properly before you pull out the check book for a new carb. You may also need to do some tuning of the WCFB. |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Years back I used a restoration kit, fitting the WCFB in my Beast, and some brake cleaner to clean the carb (really all parts) and install the new gaskets (plus the umbrella at the accelerator pump). During the cleaning I checked the function of the diaphragm pot (secondaries) as well. Nothing other than adjusting the idle mixture was necessary and my Beast runs fine all the time. I assume Wizard could confirm it. Happy Restoring! Dieter
Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-12-19 2:33 AM
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Regular
Posts: 51
Location: Grass Valley,CA. | Thanks Guys. As it turned out my carburetor problem turned out to be bad plug wires. #4, 6, and 8 plugs weren't firing very often if at all. While the car was lifted up on the rack I could see where the passenger side muffler (dual exhaust)had suffered an explosion of unburned fuel sometime in the past. She's running great now. but never seems to warm up to a normal operating temperature according to the dash gauge. Time to see if the thermostat was removed. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 494
Location: Alberta | I'm a believer in Keep It Simple although like many I get on a run away with these kinds of problems also.Slow and Steady wins the race here, Step (1) check the coil for output voltage output 35000 volts/3-4 amps to the plugs especially at higher RRM'S (2) check inside of distributor cap terminal contacts (no arc burns/corrosion/hairline cracks (3) check the distributor for shaft wear(possible) and lubricate. (4) check the points (no visible signs of arcing) adjust to [17th] (5) check all plug wires and plugs,set plug gap [35th] the appearance of electrodes and porcelain should appear very close to normal slight darkening of coarse from heat,this may reveal some plug fouling heavy carbon deposits possible.(6) Now adjust your timing 6-10 degrees BTDC engine running warm (7) connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum port on the carb (8) this vacuum gauge reading will give you some indications (17-21) on how and what condition this engine is in and carb adjustments required. I strongly suggest you read the chart provided with your gauge or download one off the net if you don't have one.Some great info provided on these charts.One other thing you have mentioned here is check thermostat [195 degree min. or bit higher] these hemis like to run warm other wise they start fouling up the plugs. Now if I can only practise what I preach here I may be able to actually start and run my 354 |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 769
Location: Oley, PA | RUSTORICHES - 2017-01-15 9:57 PM
I'm a believer in Keep It Simple although like many I get on a run away with these kinds of problems also.Slow and Steady wins the race here, Step (1) check the coil for output voltage output 35000 volts/3-4 amps to the plugs especially at higher RRM'S (2) check inside of distributor cap terminal contacts (no arc burns/corrosion/hairline cracks (3) check the distributor for shaft wear(possible) and lubricate. (4) check the points (no visible signs of arcing) adjust to [17th] (5) check all plug wires and plugs,set plug gap [35th] the appearance of electrodes and porcelain should appear very close to normal slight darkening of coarse from heat,this may reveal some plug fouling heavy carbon deposits possible.(6) Now adjust your timing 6-10 degrees BTDC engine running warm (7) connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum port on the carb (8) this vacuum gauge reading will give you some indications (17-21) on how and what condition this engine is in and carb adjustments required. I strongly suggest you read the chart provided with your gauge or download one off the net if you don't have one.Some great info provided on these charts.One other thing you have mentioned here is check thermostat [195 degree min. or bit higher] these hemis like to run warm other wise they start fouling up the plugs. Now if I can only practise what I preach here I may be able to actually start and run my 354
How do you measure coil output voltage and current? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 494
Location: Alberta | I probably didn't explain the test for the coil well I tend to assume somethings when writing out some type of instruction.Saying all that I assumed everyone has grabbed a bare spark plug wire just to feel the jolt which by the way is not recommended as it could be the last time you ever do that. So I searched good old Youtube for a good video and low and behold I found one that explains this very well. As you may expect It's not one with the usual "how much can I talk" or a product promo with "predicted results" Check it out see what you think and remember to test the coil a couple of times just to double check your readings, you may find it will change which means the coil is starting to fail or will at higher demands. One more thing that I was told by a professional "Old School Tune Up Expert" a spark plug may check out when bench tested but could fail in the cylinder head under compression.No charge, It's free advise so keep it and use it as such"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIx4dxew_UU
Edited by RUSTORICHES 2017-01-16 10:09 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 769
Location: Oley, PA | Good video for how to do a resistance check, which is pretty exactly how I've always done it.
I was mostly curious of how you would measure voltage and current. I suppose you could use a scope if you had one. |
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56 New Yorker and a WCFB
