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AAJ Brake Conversion Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Brakes, Wheels and Tires | Message format |
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Hi Guys, my car is a 1958 Plymouth Belvedere V8 318 2x4 Barrels Carbs Power Brakes assisted All Drum Brakes all round I would like to convert my front drum brakes to Disk with the full conversion kit ($900) from AAJ BRAKES, totally fed up with my front drum brakes locking up, thudding sounds and screeching to the right when the car comes to a complete stop at slow speeds... Are there any issues with the conversion, will I'll be able to keep my original size wheels with the hubcaps and is it a lengthy and straight forward process to do Any thoughts from people who have completed this conversion, would be much appreciated Cheers Roberto PS I'm in Australia | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Use the bolts it comes with and thread locker too! Torque the nuts to spec. Make sure bleed port is on top of the caliper when installed. Ensure the hose don't kink when steering is at full lock. Prebleed the master cylinder before you install it. Use a proportioning valve: http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how-to-series/four-things-to-know-... or: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/residual-pressure-valv... with: adjustable valve for front: http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves.aspx Marc. | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Hi Marc, thanks for the info does the proportioning value come with the kits or do you buy it separately Any other input from others will be great as well Cheers Edited by roblun 2016-08-28 1:49 PM | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | I had a lengthy conversation with Roger who runs AAJ brakes this morning. He seems more inclined to sell brackets and give you some part numbers to get at your local parts store. This will save you a boatload on shipping as well as give you some piece of mind knowing the parts are available over the counter. I have read here in multiple threads his kits work so you should be fine in that regard. Send him an email or give him a call. He will set you up with what you need to know. I would for sure go the disc route if 100% originality is not a concern. He spent the time and money developing the brackets /kits over the years, he is a forward look enthusiast so I would give him my business. | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Thanks 51 coronet, I have already sent him an email, I live in Australia so it would be probably hard to find those sort of parts here, just getting info to see how long it would take a mechanic at a workshop to do the whole conversion, also from what I have read on other threads that I don't need to do any other modifications with this kits to my car, I'm not really concern about the originality of the brakes, I've almost restored most of the car and the only thing that is stopping me from driving it are those darn front brakes Cheers Cheers | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Got a reply from Roger Hi Roberto, Can you get the rotors and calipers over there? Rotors alone weigh 52-55 lbs. For a super kit it will be $1690.00 US funds only. PayPal only. with S/H/I but for a kit without rotors or calipers it will be $1080.00. I sent you our list to see by chance you can save alot of money . PayPal address is aajbrakes@comcast.net Thanks for your interest in our kits, Roger Would anyone from Australia know where I could get the rotors and calipers Cheers Edited by roblun 2016-08-28 7:08 PM | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | Next step is to ask Roger what vehicle the calipers and rotors are from originally. You may be able to get free shipping or better yet be able to source them locally. I would set an alarm to talk to Roger at about 10am pacific time on a Sunday to see if he will disclose some information for you to help you out (I say this day because this is when he called me and stated its about the only day and time he has a chance to talk on the phone). Or search these forums for someone who did the swap and see if they know exactly what parts were used with some part numbers or a specific vehicle the parts are used on. Either way I think its just a matter of time till you get the info. Good luck to you | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | I'm actually in New York City on a holiday, until the 7th of September, I can actually purchase more luggage roughly 50lbs for $123AUD with Qantas and bring them back in a suitcase if they can fit in a normal size suitcase, any thoughts? Cheers | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | No help Rob, but I have a disc brake kit here from an unknown supplier, (as in I dont know who made it) but It has machined up hubs to suit the rotors its supplied with, but at this stage, I have no idea what the rotors are off or the calipers ect. I havnt looked into it to much yet, but it looks like 15" wheels would be a must I worry about a kit that uses parts off a car thats not, or ever was available here and especially, if they were a crapbox in the US that no one loves as the parts will dry up Original parts for our cars over here are hard to get anyway, so maybe not such a problem, but I would prefer to try and make it easier. Did you try "Hoppers Stoppers" ? | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Hi Mick, I've bitten the bullet and purchased the whole kit, I'm here in New York City with my partner and 4 friends All up the parts weigh 100lbs/ 45kgs, we are each allowed to carry back 2x 23kg per person so I'll get the parts back home For free, $900USD for the super kit and post to Australia $790USD all up it would of cost $1690 USD so with the money I Saved on postage I can use to pay for the conversion, I spoke to Roger and Barbara they are totally awesome people, Roger Said that it shouldn't take that long to do the change over probably the whole afternoon. | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Be interesting to see if the parts are similar to the stuff thats here | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Ok made it back to Fremantle with all the Brake parts, parts spread out through 6 suitcases, very lucky to be traveling with 6 people and manage to get 100lbs/50kg of parts back home from AAJ Brakes saving around $600-$700AUD on postage to Australia, thanks to Qantas for allowing a few suitcases through as well | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Hi there, just wondering if anyone has performed the Disc brake conversion from AAJ for a 1958 Plymouth Belvedere, the mechanic wants to use the original Master Cylinder, not the one that was supplied. Also will I have to change my brake Booster for the conversion, does anyone out there have any photos of there conversion or info that was performed on a similar car...Cheers Edited by roblun 2017-03-31 8:16 AM (IMG_1346a.jpg) (IMG_1348a.jpg) (IMG_1357a.jpg) (IMG_1360a.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_1346a.jpg (225KB - 293 downloads) IMG_1348a.jpg (214KB - 213 downloads) IMG_1357a.jpg (216KB - 218 downloads) IMG_1360a.jpg (215KB - 195 downloads) | ||
imopar380 |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7205 Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | I have a kit on my 1960 Chrysler, did not have to change out the power booster. Roger specified a GM dual pot master cylinder when I bought mine and it fits under the booster, but there was a special adapter to mount the master cylinder as the bolt pattern is different. I also then had to have a new push rod made, longer than the original that goes from the pedal linkage into the master cyl. I believe your bellows booster takes up exactly the same space as my canister type booster. Edited by imopar380 2017-03-31 1:02 PM (engine.jpg) Attachments ---------------- engine.jpg (157KB - 217 downloads) | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Your mechanic is lazy and stupid. Change mechanics. You or your new mechanic can install a new 2 pot master cylinder with your booster or get a modern booster and use a modern new master cylinder. Safety first. DO NOT use the original single pot master cylinder. | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | The Kit I have is the Super kit, with the new push rod that goes to the pedal linkages was that an easy job to do? I cant remember if I have the special adapter to mount the master cylinder, or is it supplied? Edited by roblun 2017-04-01 1:26 AM (Super Kit.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Super Kit.JPG (59KB - 226 downloads) | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | the gm/vette style master is a 2 bolt and our masters are 4 bolt , therefore an adapter is needed but the adapter is non-expensive -----------------------------------------------later | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Thanks for the info, so the adapter would look like this then (IMG_1594.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_1594.JPG (18KB - 210 downloads) | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | I am using a 4 bolt new 1-1/32" master cylinder. for a 1971 dodge: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309082&cc=1082360&jsn=57... disc/disc style: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309084&cc=1082360&jsn=57... Edited by mstrug 2017-04-01 8:11 AM | ||
matador440 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 690 Location: BELTSVILLE, MARYLAND 20705 | If you need help or have questions ?? I have installed approx 20 of Rogers kits on FOREWORD LOOK CARS and TRUCKS. Its a long afternoon job. The bolt on rotors and calipers, pads is relatively easy. With the dual master cylinder you have to re plumb the front brake lines and mount the front brake hoses in a different spot than the original drum brake hoses. This takes some measuring with the tires in place so you don't mount the hoses and have the tires hit the hoses when you turn the wheel. The new brake hoses actually mount on the back side of the spindle rather than in front side of the spindle like the original ones. This is why you will need to make new metal brake lines. I have pictures if you need them | ||
imopar380 |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7205 Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | roblun - 2017-03-31 10:18 PM The Kit I have is the Super kit, with the new push rod that goes to the pedal linkages was that an easy job to do? I cant remember if I have the special adapter to mount the master cylinder, or is it supplied? That kit pictured HAS a Mopar dual pot master cylinder. That is NOT a GM master like the one that came with mine. This one should fit under your booster, but check with Roger regarding some slight mods that may have to be made in order to get the lid off. You do NOT need the adapter with this kit. | ||
roblun |
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Veteran Posts: 201 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Thanks guys I really appreciate your information, any photos would be great as well... cheers Edited by roblun 2017-04-02 9:34 AM | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Here is my setup: Pic 4. in a 57 Belvedere 2 door hardtop. Pic 1,2,3 in a 57 4 door sedan... Edited by mstrug 2017-04-02 2:18 PM (Clutch and brake 2 mockupdate 004.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Clutch and brake 2 mockupdate 004.JPG (147KB - 224 downloads) | ||
Fick4fun |
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Veteran Posts: 135 | It really is a simple install I'm doing it on a 63 imperial and it is going well. Haven't finished yet need to figure out what to do with booster as I think mine is bad | ||
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