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Elite Veteran
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Location: Sydney, Australia | My master cylinder has started leaking at the firewall and I've noticed a broken bolt for the master[havent had car long] once I remove the old master, is the old broken stud easy to remove or is it welded in.. What can be done in this scenario?
Also is this what I need for a non power assist set up? http://m.ebay.com/itm/281756732125?_mwBanner=1
Do I need to get a new rod from the brake pedal or the old one is fine to use? I've just noticed you can buy them with or without..
Edited by matte 2016-03-19 5:06 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6498
 
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Hi Matte; Here is a pic of the bracket, its from a power unit, but you can see it is a stud welded in. once you get the master off, You maybe able to drill it out and put in a bolt or 2. remove the assembly and weld in a new bolt. Third: Grind it smooth drill for a tap size and tap that thang! Install stud with nut under the hood of the car. and use some red lock-tite on the stud. Marc.
Edited by mstrug 2016-03-19 6:10 PM
 (58plyboosterplate1.jpg)
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 58plyboosterplate1.jpg (189KB - 195 downloads)
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Thanks Marc! I didn't realize that the bolts were apart of the pedal bracket(excuse my ignorance). So if I undo the nuts from the master and take the master away, should I be able to remove the pedal setup or is there more to it? |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | There are at least 6 more bolts holding on the bracket. four are under the dash, 2 on the fire wall. It comes out from under the dash board. look at the pic. It will be a little different for a manual brake setup. See all those square nuts welded to the bracket? That's what holds it in. If you have a clutch it's even harder! Marc. |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Sydney, Australia | Thanks again. I reckon I'll take out the setup and drill out the old broken one and replace it with a bolt.. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Guys, I'm completely confused about ordering a Master. I'm looking at 2 different Masters with 2 different parts numbers but in the interchangeable part numbers they both show MC36063. The thing is whilst the Centric one lists it's a compatible Master whilst the Cardone one isn't compatible although it sports the MC36063 same as the Centric one shows it's compatible with. Confusing or is it just the my little knowledge of Mopar?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Premium-Master-Cylind...
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-New-Master-Cylinder-C... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | unless i was going for a show car , there's no way in this world i'd use a single pot master -----------------------------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | I agree. Get a mopar 1/1/8" bore Master cylinder for drum/drum app.
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=59648&...
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/search/query.asp?fid=0&action=sea...
Edited by mstrug 2016-03-22 5:33 AM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | What is the advantage of the duel pot vs single? Pressure?
I'm not sure which one I need..10-327 for a reman? No new ones. So I would also need to get new lines made up and also do some other things?
I just notice I put 1959 in the title instead of 1958!
Edited by matte 2016-03-22 6:44 AM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Dual circuits. One can fail and still have brakes to the other! You just have to send fluid to the rear and replace the 't' or plug it. They all tee together at the frame. Use the front lines as normal, adapt a new line to the rear line from the rear master cylinder outlet with a union. 10# check valves doe drum brakes will be needed if not in master cylinder. Marc. |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Sydney, Australia | I removed the old master and the removed the pedal rod with I guess what is called the "plunger". Does the plunger detach from the rod by using force or is there a type of clip? Also to fit the rod into the new MC does the rod just push in and that's it? |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | matte - 2016-03-28 6:29 PM
I removed the old master and the removed the pedal rod with I guess what is called the "plunger". Does the plunger detach from the rod by using force or is there a type of clip? Also to fit the rod into the new MC does the rod just push in and that's it?
Anyone done this before? |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Sydney, Australia | Such a shame.......... |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: North of the 49th | matte - 2016-03-28 5:29 PM
I removed the old master and the removed the pedal rod with I guess what is called the "plunger". Does the plunger detach from the rod by using force or is there a type of clip? Also to fit the rod into the new MC does the rod just push in and that's it?
In 1959 Chrysler did a few things , they eliminated the brake pedal return spring so the pedal was made to return with hydraulic pressure from the wheel cylinders , AND the master cylinder push rod was made non adjustable & was "retained" in the master cylinder piston. In actuality its held in place with a very durable and very tenacious nylon ring that sits at the front of the master cylinder push rod and catches a groove inside the master cylinder piston... its a bear to pull out if you try, but can be done... sometimes the ring survives sometimes it doesn't.
Thats why 1959 M/C service packages came with the piston and pushrod/ boot as an assembled unit. I have had a number of them over the years. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Hey thank you for the answer. I made an error in my title and when I noticed it I couldn't change it. It's actually a 58... Does it still have a nylon ring holding the pushrod? If so would the new MC have the ring inside the new piston? |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: North of the 49th | That nylon ring is the only way I've seen the rod retained and I've never had an instance where the ring was included with a Master cylinder that did not have a retained push rod. I managed to get a few rings from a brake and clutch specialist where I used to get my brake shoes custom relined...regrettably he's been out of business for at least 10 years. The 1959 "upgrade/change" date for the M/C is valid for Canadian built cars don't know about "Export" or U.S. built ...
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Sydney, Australia | I really hope it's included with the new master because waiting for parts to come over takes a while and I've only driven the car 20km since getting it back in Feb... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6498
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | 
 I temped one in today:
Edited by mstrug 2016-03-31 6:54 PM
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Sydney, Australia | That looks good. Is that to your 4 door project or another? I had to buy a single pot at this point in time because the car has been imported as all original. If I take it for the inspection and anything has been changed(even if it means making it better and safer) it then takes me into a world of headaches with engineers inspections and reports etc... I will get a dual later down the track and also a booster at the same time. Once it's registered in my State in Australia, it's easy to get away with improvements to the car...
I've got a GMH 60's car that's been in the family since new and handed to me in 1995. It has a single pot manual drum brakes and also an 80's HP car with a single pot which was my daily for 4 years.. I've never had a problem with any of those cars brakes but I always checked and maintained everything.. I guess the most frustrating thing about the brakes on the Dodge is you can't just open the bonnet and glance at the brake fluid level or unclip the lid..
HaHa I live in a city suburb so I could pretty much walk faster than the traffic flows on a busy day..
I just hope once I remove the pushrod from the piston that all I need to do is push it into the new MC and the new piston. It looks to be complete as it also has the new rubber boot on the outside...
At what level should this type of single pot be filled? There is no type of indicator so I guess most of the pot is filled..
Edited by matte 2016-03-31 9:07 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | I'm hoping they send the bleeder nipple with the new Master cylinder but do I need to bench bleed a new single pot MC? Because the line connection faces down, won't the fluid just flow out when I disconnect the bleeder(if sent) and connect up the brake line?
Also I can't find any torque setting for the MC bolts. Anyone know these?
Edited by matte 2016-04-06 8:34 PM
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Member
Posts: 43
Location: Peoria< IL | I would not buy the Centric master cylinder you referenced. I just purchased one for my '55 Plymouth and I had a problem with the bottom port not being correctly theaded and there was no inverted flare fitting for the hose. It was just a raw 1/4-18 NPT fitting with a deep bubble shoulder on the top. Nothing adapter-wise was included to get the OEM 7/16-24 hose to thread in. Pics are below.
I am at a loss as to where to go next. I've heard the Dorman M36063 will work for our FL cars with an original 1 1/8" bore, and it does include a step-down adapter. My '55 master cylinder did not have a pushrod retainer, but there is a notch on there that the boot slides over and keeps it fairly taught. Perhaps that's all it needs?
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original.jpg (107KB - 204 downloads)
Centric.jpg (73KB - 218 downloads)
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1959 Dodge Regent/ Plymouth Belvedere master cylinder
I temped one in today: 
