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360 rebuild
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59 in Calif
Posted 2016-01-16 12:41 PM (#501303)
Subject: 360 rebuild


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1102
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Location: Hayward, Calif
Got the block & heads at the machine shop. Block checked out ok. Std bore. Exh valve lip getting a bit thin so replacing all exh valves. Wanted to get 9.5 CR pistons but head combustion CC would only allow 9.3, so had to settle for that. As soon as the machinist gets done checking out the rods, I can take crank, rods, new pistons, everything to crank shop and have it all balanced. Hopefully end of next week I can start putting it back together. I ended up getting a flat tappet cam from Summit. Converting to a rollar cam was getting too complicated. Will post pics of rebuild later. Jerry
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wayfarer
Posted 2016-01-16 1:25 PM (#501306 - in reply to #501303)
Subject: Re: 360 rebuild



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Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon
...late to the party...but as to the con rod numbers, the only reason for the odd locations is if the engine was previously rebuilt and the rods were reconditioned...some machinists will then ignore factory stampings. Not kosher in my book.
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2016-01-16 4:56 PM (#501321 - in reply to #501303)
Subject: Re: 360 rebuild



Expert

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Location: Netherlands
I'm putting together a 360 myself as well.
My first ever smallblock

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59 in Calif
Posted 2016-01-16 5:10 PM (#501322 - in reply to #501303)
Subject: Re: 360 rebuild


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1102
1000100
Location: Hayward, Calif
I talked about this with my machinist. He wasn't too concerned about it as long as the even #,s are on the right bank and the odd #'s were on the left bank. I don't think any past reconditioning has been done. He has been around for a very long time & I have a great deal of respect for his knowledge. Jerry
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2016-01-16 6:57 PM (#501328 - in reply to #501303)
Subject: Re: 360 rebuild



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Location: Netherlands
I've seen it before after a motor had been rebalanced.
Of course it doesn't really matter anymore, but I too find it would take very little effort to simply keep the rods at their numbered order.

My 360 build will have KB-pistons to 'up' the CR, and 318ci '302' heads.
Will also use .028" thick headgaskets from Summit to further up the CR a bit more too around 10.5:1
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mrg-1121g/overview/make/dodge

The engine will run on propane only so the high compression ratio won't be much of an issue.

I went through the trouble of smoothing and polishing the ports and headchambers, and also the intake and exhaust valves.
On the valves I removed the little 'ski-ramp'.
The areas around the valves were unshrouded for added flow and I also removed any sharp edges in the head chamber to prevent pre-ignition due to 'hot spots'.

I also prepped the oilfilter base by adding 4 more oilreturn holes to the 4 currently in it.
Also blended the internal oilchannel to the pump so no sharp corners are present. The oilpump itself got smoothed internally and the transition at the mounting face to the rear maincap was camferred.
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59 in Calif
Posted 2016-01-17 11:37 AM (#501387 - in reply to #501328)
Subject: Re: 360 rebuild


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1102
1000100
Location: Hayward, Calif
Glad to hear someone else is working with this engine. Before I removed the pistons I measured from top of the piston to the top of the block and came up with .160 Did you happen to take this measurement also ? Once I get the new pistons in, I will take that measurement again. I'm using the stock 360 heads, which are an open chambered head. The cam lift is .420 The new pistons, ( 9.3 CR ) have a deep valve relief in the top for valve clearance. I'm wondering if I will still have enough valve clearance if I use that Summit .028 head gasket. What size drill bit did you use when adding more holes in the oil filter base. They look like 1/4" holes in the base I have, and just the 4 holes. Kinda makes me wonder why Chry thought the 4 holes was sufficient . Jerry
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2016-01-17 4:36 PM (#501429 - in reply to #501303)
Subject: RE: 360 rebuild



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Posts: 3575
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Location: Netherlands
The later 360's had more oilreturn holes in the filterbase.
Haven't mocked up the engine yet. I've spent quite some time working on the heads/valves/oil pickup and pump.
I've installed the cambearings but need to ream some of them a tad so the cam rotates smoothly.
After that I can install the crank and start measuring where the pistons end up and check valve clearance.

Here're some pics of my build;














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59 in Calif
Posted 2016-01-19 9:13 AM (#501620 - in reply to #501303)
Subject: Re: 360 rebuild


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1102
1000100
Location: Hayward, Calif
I got that same harmonic balancer from Summit. Thought it a bit pricey, $150. I also got KB pistons. I noticed the piston skirt is about 1/4" shorter and half as thick as original pistons. I'm guessing that difference was moved to the top of the piston to help keep the same weight. I would like to use roller rockers, but don't see much point if they only put the roller where the rocker contacts valve stem. I would think it would do more good if the roller was put in the rocker where it rotates on the rocker shaft. But haven't found any yet. Jerry
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