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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
 
Location: Hayward, Calif | Hey Guys, I'm finally getting to the eng. swap. The eng. I'm working with is a 360 I took out of a 76 Dodge Minnie Winnie Camper. I was unable to find any serial #'s stamped anywhere. The emissions tag on the valve cover shows Dec. 1975, 360 - 1 family. The casting # on the left side of block is, 4006830 - 360 - 5. The casting # on the head is 37699. It has roto caps on the exh valve springs, springs look like they had been painted yellow and now faded to brown. The int. springs are green, no roto caps. I question is,,,,, is this a typical 360 head, or possibly a truck version ? I plan to put 9.5 pistons in it and possibly a rollar cam. Early 80's Chry put rollar cams in these eng's, but so far haven't been able to find any spec's on it. Thanks, Jerry |
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Expert
Posts: 3393
 
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Try googling Mopar casting numbers for cc info and year application. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | The rotators are definitely truck pieces and not a terrible thing to have if you are not trying to spin it up a lot of the time. Rotators add a bit of extra weight that does not like high rpm..... Installing a roller cam tells me you may be trying for more rpm so new springs are a must. I'll suggest looking through the Crower Cams catalogue.
The head casting number is a pass car part, was also used on the Lean Burn engines so they are usable, again depending on the anticipated service. The 'best' 360 head will be the 'J' head, also used on 72 & 73 340 engines and 4-bb 360's.
Generally, the 360 is a good performer with the 9.5c/r you mention along with a reasonable cam profile (for the intended purpose) and electronic ign. Yes, a 4-bbl is needed on a good dual plane manifold; the oem TQ package or a 650 Holley would be my choice.
As for the roller cam question, the blocks are different between oem roller and non-roller. The roller block has taller lifter bores and mounting locations for the lifter hold down spider. The factory lifters use a figure 8 holder that the lifters sit in to keep from spinning, the spider holds these down to keep the lifters in. You will need lifters with a tie bar if you have a non roller block.
The oem roller cam specs are very mild...something like 250° and .400 lift...not much to brag about.
Edited by wayfarer 2015-10-04 7:43 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | COOL !! Thanks for the info. I'm restoring a 59 Dodge for the wife and she prefers economy over speed. The 360 and matching T/F trans was a gift, so decided to use it. My understanding the rollar cam will add to the low end torque. I have a 2.76 diff ratio in it now, but can change that if it is too tall. Planning to run 15" wheels. Since the eng/trans came out of a camper truck I suspect the stall speed on the torque converter will come in at lower eng RPM's than a standard pass car application. Correct me if there is no difference there. I plan to get a 4BBL manifold and TQ carb and the oil pan from a 76 Cordoba if the guy still has it. Thanks again, Jerry |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | Jerry, I would expect the camper converter to be on the tight side but not significantly different that a pass car. AFAIK, the cab and chassis used in the camper were just normal production units so I would not expect anything 'special' in the converter department. The 2-bbl 360 converter is likely in the 1800-2200 rpm range for stall speed.
As for the 2.76, my old 79 Cordoba had a 2.45 and it ran very well.
Gary |
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Expert
Posts: 3774
Location: NorCal | 59 in Calif - 2015-10-04 1:35 PM
Early 80's Chry put rollar cams in these eng's, but so far haven't been able to find any spec's on it. Thanks, Jerry
Your engine is a 360LA and no LA engines ever came from the factory with roller cams. The 360 Magnum introduced in '92 was a roller motor as were all that followed.
You'll find more specific info on your engine by checking the stamped info in the front of the block just below the cylinder head on the drivers side, about 3 minutes into the video in the link below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7IPrBInZ-8
Edited by 57chizler 2015-10-05 1:59 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | I cleaned and sanded that area below the left cyl head, nothing there, just a flat surface. No indication of any #'s ever stamped there. I thought this was a bit odd. Jerry |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | Engines w/o stamped ID numbers would indicate an over-the-counter replacement. |
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Veteran
Posts: 158
Location: Ottawa, ON | Gary, do you know if this is also true for early b-engines?
Edited by Polara61_383 2015-10-06 1:12 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3774
Location: NorCal |
Yes, parts room replacement bare blocks (BB and SB) are usually devoid of any stampings with the rare exception of blocks that have non-standard dimensions such as oversized bores/lifters, etc. Since the bare blocks were never "built" they have no build data stamped in them. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | I am not sure about post-62 engine assemblies, but pre-62 assembled engines, not just service replacement blocks, were w/o ID codes since it was still common in many states to use the engine number on the car title. It was expected that the servicing dealer/shop would transfer the ID to the new engine. |
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Veteran
Posts: 158
Location: Ottawa, ON | Ok thanks, that's interesting to know. I am still wondering why my presumably 61 Block in my 61 car doesn't have an ID stamp...But I do not want to take over this thread ;-) |
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Expert
Posts: 3774
Location: NorCal |
The raised casting numbers on the side of the block will include the casting date. If the casting date is nowhere near the year of the car you can safely assume the block is a replacement. |
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Engine #'s
