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Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth
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Mopar1
Posted 2019-12-03 6:58 AM (#591037 - in reply to #591028)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



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Powerflite - 2019-12-02 7:05 PM

What would you do for it, other than nothing?
I didn't stick any 331 badges n my '60 Plym….
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Handygun
Posted 2019-12-10 7:30 PM (#591425 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


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Nathan in past conversations we've had I told you your car was a inspiration for me to build a FL car with a early Chrysler. When I was having grief fitting a decent free flowing exhaust in my Plymouth, Chaney (Dukeboy) suggested using a front frame clip from a crown vic-impala-Dakota and I thought no way would I get rid of torsion bars for coils especially on a 57-58 car however in your case to me it doesn't seem bad. You would pick up room, get rid of kingpins, better brakes, parts avail anywhere, a swaybar, etc etc just a thought. And I still dig your car hydramatic or not.
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-12-10 8:05 PM (#591428 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



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A rack & pinion would give me more space, but I'm not fond of such suspension conversions. If this were the only car I played with, I might consider doing some trial & error with frame & suspension changes, but I just don't have the time or interest in going down that road. Not only that, but I have already finished the hard part of making the headers so I'm not going to back away now. I'm not really looking for stellar performance, just trying to get the exhaust from pointing straight down and getting it off the ground. I picked the 700R4 because I believe it is the best overdrive trans out there that doesn't use a computer. But I find that the overdrive isn't really needed with an automatic, so if I were to do it over again, I would just install a pushbutton 727 so I could still get park and use the buttons. Using the buttons & having park too on this overdrive trans is more trouble than it's worth so I'm shifting it with a hand cable instead. When the time comes that I stop using it to tow my camping trailer in the mountains, and I can live without park, I'll hook it up to the pushbuttons again.

By the way, I think I figured out why the motor would backfire under load. Once I took it apart, I found that the timing chain was VERY loose. Makes sense, but I tried measuring the slack with the distributor and only measured five degrees of play so it didn't sound bad. But checking out the chain directly, it feels pretty loose. I'll try measuring the slack at the cam and see how it compares, but I suspect that I just didn't measure it accurately enough at the distributor.
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