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| Embracing rain, and probably have the best windshield wipers in the entire hobby!
I kind of want to get to know some of the mopar people out here. I did this stuff years back in souther indiana, even started my own local club in Seymour. I've taken a 15 year vacation and getting back into the hobby with a '60 Phoenix. I have to say, holy crap, these sure are no B body or A body or C body! I'm a bit overwhelmed with the learning curve on these cars compared to newer mopars. I need some help.
You know in the ham radio world we have what we call elmers. Old men that take the time to help the youngsters along in the hobby. Do we have such people for working on forward look cars? |
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Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Ask a question and see what happens.....
Marc. |
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Location: Perth Australia | I bought my phoenix to learn how to build my plymouth (where clips go, that sort of thing)
The stuff I have learnt on this site from asking questions and reading all the posts is amazing
This site would have to be one of the best reference sites for this era mopar you could ever find (even if theres a disagreement or two along the way)
There are a few of us on here that have built 60 dodges up from nothing, so theres not much that wont be known or cant be worked out
I will say though that I didnt know about the high beam light colour either, but my dodge is Australian built, so it uses a r/h/d 60 plymouth dash otherwise its pretty much the same
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Location: Williams California | Welcome to the site, Ben.
Where are you located?
---John |
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| Portland oregon. |
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Location: Northern New Jersey | Welcome Ben.
Great Group and Very Knowledgeable! |
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Location: Parts Unknown | We have members in the Po'land area. Bound to be someone close
enough to be helpful. Question is, if they know your kind of car well.
A 58 car is a whole different enchilada from a 60, as is a 56. I am in
Spokane, so prolly a little out of range. 
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| Doctor DeSoto - 2015-05-28 8:41 AM
We have members in the Po'land area. Bound to be someone close
enough to be helpful. Question is, if they know your kind of car well.
A 58 car is a whole different enchilada from a 60, as is a 56. I am in
Spokane, so prolly a little out of range.
I don't know about it totally being different. the suspension and brakes are certainly just like a '58. The engine is similar. It's certainly more 1958 than it is 1964.
That's the spot I'm in. I mean, when the windshield wipers didn't work I went looking for a fuse box... spent a good hour probing around before I finally realize, mopar just built them without one, which honestly scares the crap out of me. :/ |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Well, feel free to rattle my cage if "close enough for hand grenades"
works for you, drop a line. What's 300 miles ! .... right around the
corner !
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Location: The Great Northwest | There is a very knowledgeable Mopar guy in the Portland area with a fully restored 60 Phoenix. I'll see if it's ok to PM his contact info to you. |
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| 56300B - 2015-05-29 1:21 PM
There is a very knowledgeable Mopar guy in the Portland area with a fully restored 60 Phoenix. I'll see if it's ok to PM his contact info to you.
I would be very grateful. I'm not THAT inexperienced with mopars, it's all I have ever owned even. My first car was a 70 duster, then a '64 polara. Then I got a motorcycle, got into some trouble, moved to oregon, haven't had a car or a valid licence since. However, I've cleared that mess up and put that firmly in my past. So here we are with a '60 phoenix and a '60 seneca for parts. |
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Location: WA/USA | These cars are really pretty simple other than, 1) How the hell do you remove the inside door handles, 2) How many tons of TNT does it take to remove the drums off a tapered axle?
They only thing that is really intimidating is finding parts.
(I'm in Western WA).
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Location: Parts Unknown | A special tool easily removes the door handles and window cranks. I will be happy
to post a pic, if you like.
Tapered axles - the bane of the unprepared and impatient ! Another overrated problem ....
Get yourself a proper puller and a short-handle sledge .... about a 4-6 pounder, and an
acetylene torch kit with a scrapper's head.
Step 1: Put puller on studs with full thread bearing on all nuts holding puller arms.
Step 2: Hand tighten puller and then use that sledge to put some serious tension
on the arms. In a perfect world, this *should* cause the drum to release from the axle.
Step 3: Should drum not release per optimistic expectations, fire up that torch and
heat hub to a dim orange glow. Do not heat axle. If this does not cause drum to release,
allow to cool and sit overnight. Drum may be popped and loose in the A.M. If this still
fails to cause drum release, repeat procedure. If still no release, repeat, but rapid cool
with garden hose. Another option is to heat drum hub and apply ice to axle, expanding
the former and contracting the latter. Feel free to tap on drum with sledge throughout
process.
If all else fails, cut the #@! drim off the axle and get another one !
I put the lightest smear of anti-seize on my axles before putting drums on. Some here
have said this is a bad idea. Once done, I can remove drums YEARS after putting them
on with no real problem.
Having the right tools for the job makes some b!tch jobs a breeze, and this would be
one of them. I use my torch ALL THE TIME to warm rusty nuts and bolts before I try to
disengage them to avoid snapping the bolts off. Did it today on some hopelessly stuck
Model T bolts than had been married for 90+ years. 2 snapped off trying it without heat.
The other four got the torch and came apart easily. Heat = magic !!!
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| AceS - 2015-05-30 5:43 PM
These cars are really pretty simple other than, 1) How the hell do you remove the inside door handles, 2) How many tons of TNT does it take to remove the drums off a tapered axle?
They only thing that is really intimidating is finding parts.
(I'm in Western WA).
They make a tool for the handles. the ones on my 64 dodge were retained in the exact same way. You can make your own out of some 3/16ths steel plate, hack saw and a file. anyway that's how I made mine. But I'm a machinist too, so, making my own tools using a file, no big deal. |
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| Doctor DeSoto - 2015-05-30 7:28 PM
I put the lightest smear of anti-seize on my axles before putting drums on. Some here
have said this is a bad idea. Once done, I can remove drums YEARS after putting them
on with no real problem.
Yeah I wouldn't either. Although a very light oil, like air tool oil isn't so bad. In the machinist world we use taper retension for all kinds of stuff. Morse taper shank drills, taper and pull stud retension of cat 50 and cat 20 holders, the list goes on and on. One thing I noticed is those f**kers can get stuck for three reasons. The first one is the obvious one, the tool gets hot, the taper expands and slips a bit deaper into the spindle, then once it's all cooled off it's a bas***d to get release. the other one is exactly what you did with antiseize on the drum. grease gets on them, and that lets the tool get pretty deep in the spindle before it achieves lock up. Then the grease gets hot and cooks it into varnish and good fing luck getting that out. It can also cause the spindle to split during assembly of that mess. However, the 3rd one, no lubrication at all gets them stuck pretty good too! We give our tools a light coating of wd-40. they won't rust and it doesn't cook into varnish, and it's lubricating properties are fairly poor so it won't let the tool get into the taper too awfully tight before the oil film breaks down.
I'm willing to bed a dry lube is the best thing to use. Molbenium disulfide powder would probably work a peach in that application! |
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Location: WA/USA | Polybun - 2015-05-26 5:57 AM
I have to say, holy crap, these sure are no B body or A body or C body! I'm a bit overwhelmed with the learning curve on these cars compared to newer mopars. I need some help.
QUOTE]
I was actually trying to respond to the original question by covering the three things I hear about most frequently from he A-B-C body crowd I spend most of my time with. They are used to easily taking the door handles off with an allen wrench, and just sliding the rear drums off. Other than finding parts, there really is nothing to be intimidated about except parts availability.
I've been wrenching on FW look cars for years. Sorry to put you through the educational exercises.
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Location: Tacoma, WA | Try to make the meet coming up later this month in the Dalles (check the other thread in this Pacific Northwest section). Some people on here will be there. It will be fun and inspiring, with good people!
Edited by Dave L. 2015-07-09 2:04 AM
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| eh, the car isn't going to be running for that. Probably won't have it on the road till around the end of august. |
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Location: Tacoma, WA | It'll be years (if then) that my project car will be driving, but even without a car to bring it's fun just to take in the sights and sounds and hang out for some friendly Mopar fellowship with those such Ian who posted the event, and see some awesome cars.
Edited by Dave L. 2015-07-09 11:05 PM
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Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | Hi Polybun, if you get a chance get over to the Dalles and meet some of us WPC clubbers. I'll be there, coming from Vancouver Island with the wife in our 1960 Saratoga. |
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So here we are
