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help with control arm removal Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Steering and Suspension | Message format |
finman |
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Regular Posts: 97 Location: Queens NY | Any or all info on how and in what order to remove upper and lower control arms,1958 dodge. And does the torsion bars come into play. Thanks | ||
fenix |
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Expert Posts: 2119 Location: atlanta | Are you replacing the ball joints? 1. jack up car and place stands under frame about where the front of the doors are. 2. unwind" the torsion bar preload by turning the tb adjusting bolts/screws ccw. 3. there should be a cup inside the rear of the tb's, remove them, inside the rear of the tb's is a clip in a machined groove, remove them. 4. undo the lower control arm retaining nut on the front of the front crossmember, one on each side 5. There's a tool available to clamp to the tb's and drive them towards the rear,there's a cup seal in front of the rear tb crossmember, if your not removeing the tb's completely, slide it towards the front and slide the tb's to the rear and let them stay there while working on the control arms, best advice is do not nick or scar the tb's, this may lead to failure of the bars when under load. 6. DO NOT switch tb's from side to side or front to rear, best to mark them clearly before removal. 7. you'll need a pickle fork to release the ball joints, or, since you will probably be taking the control arms to a shop to have the control arm bushings removed and replaced as well as the ball joints themselves, I would remove the upper and lower control arms with the ball joints attached, by unbolting the outter tie rod ends and take the assembly's to the machine shop and let them do their magic. I would find a shop before disassembling anything, best to find an experienced shop because they can do more damage than good if they don't have the tools and experience, especially the r&r on the ball joints. You might try youtube, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. hope this helps Edited by fenix 2015-04-18 11:16 AM | ||
finman |
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Regular Posts: 97 Location: Queens NY | Thanks fenix. I was trying to relieve the tbars by turning down the bolt ccw. Seems to have binded up now the barrel nut on the adjuster is spinning. | ||
fenix |
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Expert Posts: 2119 Location: atlanta | I had the same problem with one of mine, i guess it was rust/dirt in the threads of the 1" bolt, it came half way out and stuck, then it wouldn't go up or down, finally had to get a plasma cutter and cut the bolt off! | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | I've fought a barrel nut with a good sized pipewrench once for a long time. In the end I won but needed a new bolt and barrel nut. | ||
fenix |
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Expert Posts: 2119 Location: atlanta | I know the feeling, I had a 4 foot jack handle on a 3/4 drive breaker bar, no joy, and a hacksaw? might as well use a butterknife, I had to hire a guy with a plasma cutter. If ya screw the bolt/barrel nut up, i have one you can have. | ||
finman |
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Regular Posts: 97 Location: Queens NY | Ok thanks. The barrel nut is popping out of its groove and just spins till it sets itself again. I trying to figure how to stop it from turning so i can at least get some threads to show.the rest of the car went smooth this front end is a bull fighting me all the way Edited by finman 2015-04-18 4:00 PM | ||
fenix |
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Expert Posts: 2119 Location: atlanta | Sounds like deja vu all over again! | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | You grab the barrel nut with a pipe wrench, wedge it or tie it down somewhere so it won't move, and go at the bolt with a good ratchet wrench with a nice piece of pipe over it to act as an extension. And try to go back and forth. Adding heat to the barrel nut will usually help better. At some point you will give up hope the nut and bolt will still be usable and just cut the bolt instead. Edited by BigBlockMopar 2015-04-18 5:29 PM | ||
finman |
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Regular Posts: 97 Location: Queens NY | Ok that was my next question if i could use heat. There is less than a 1/4" of tread showing | ||
finman |
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Regular Posts: 97 Location: Queens NY | Man just needed alittle heat got both of them out . one bolt has some stripped treads. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | this is a 57 dodge dr ht. I can't get the big bolt to turn at all yet. do I have to undo that bolt to move the bar back to get to the control arm nut that holds it to the control arm? this is a 1960 diagram but it looks like exactly what I have. There are few nuts around the area where the big bolt for the tbar is but those hold the trans support in I believe. I thought someone say you could pull the control arms off without taking tension off(car is up in the air so tension is off the arms). I can get the clip off the back so maybe I can move it back. (controlarmremove.jpg) Attachments ---------------- controlarmremove.jpg (249KB - 156 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | okay tried today after I soaked a couple days. You must soak them and then I used a wire brush to clean the crud off the threads(they are fine threads). Big breaker bar and they turned, I kept turning and it came out. I didn't want the barrel nut to spin so I kept turning it off till it came out completely. my one bolt looks pretty fragged. If your barrell nut wants to turn throw something up in there like a couple dollar coins or a thick washer. mine was full of rocks and crud so it wouldnt spin. Edited by mikes2nd 2017-05-02 5:52 PM (torsion.jpg) Attachments ---------------- torsion.jpg (236KB - 164 downloads) | ||
dlyle |
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Veteran Posts: 236 Location: Morgan Hill, CA | Those bolts are available NOS on ebay.....just got a set for my 57 Fireflite. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | I am going to make this tool I guess. I used the harbor freight ball joint popper also... cant stand dumb pickle forks anymore... (BAR-05.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BAR-05.jpg (46KB - 153 downloads) | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1957-8-TORSION-BAR-BOLT-and-Swive... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1957-8-FRONT-END-TORSION-BAR-ANCH... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1957-8-FRONT-END-TORSION-BAR-ANCH... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1957-8-FRONT-END-TORSION-BAR-ANCH... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-1959-Chrysler-Dodge-Desoto-Plymouth-To... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1957-8-FRONT-END-TORSION-BAR-ANCH... Edited by mstrug 2017-05-05 5:30 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | mikes2nd - 2017-05-05 3:19 PM I am going to make this tool I guess.
Okay quickly realized you don't need that tool to get the torsion bar out... just a 2*4 and a sledgehammer... the nut must be off the front, the clip off the back and plenty of rust break did the trick. Stuck it on the front of the lower control arm and whacked away... it slid back enough to get the lower control arm off and everything is apart.
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