Wiz, the only dropped spindles I'm aware of for our cars are those by Fatman.  When installed they are intended for disc brake conversions, not for reinstallation of drum brakes.   I'm happy with the response I get from the way I set up drum brakes so I have never installed the one pair of Fatman drops I have on the shelf.  Driving as I age in south Texas involves little traffic and I have slowed down.

I continue adjusting torsion bars and using lowering blocks to get the stance I desire.  Now, that said, I have primarily owned cars with factory HD torsion bars, Chrysler 300s, DeSotos with HD bars (from 300s) installed, my '69 Coronet R/T came with "Hemi suspension") and a '65 Dart GT had Mopar Performance HD bars I installed.  

The only car I've done without HD bars (couldn't find any) was a '59 Coronet post coupe.  Adjusted down the standard bars and used 1" blocks rear.  It could be bottomed out in front but on these great TX roads it wan no problem at all.   This '59, like all '57-61 Forward Looks, was down almost 1" in the rear due to the LONG leaf springs sagging since 50 years ago when they were new.

Am currently (today) working out the stance of my 300C rat coupe.  Previous owner went to 8 leaf (!) springs and the rear was VERY tall.  Has 2" blocks now to compensate.  At the moment front still has travel before the bump stops but I may get slightly shorter polyurethane bumps if I decide it must go lower.   No as-is current pic of RatCee.

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I would submit there is nothing radically low about any of the cars I've shown.  Yet each is close to 2" lower than factory stock rear settings and closer to 3" lower than factory stock front settings.

Think I'm happy with RatCee's stance and got in a test drive and photo just prior to some heaqvy rain which isn't going to stop today.   Discussed in above post.   Took it through a low water crossing (currently dry creek) nearby at 30mph and did not bottom.

REMINDER:   Any time suspension settings are altered (or when parts are replaced), the follow-up is a fresh front end alignment.   I have made sure that the car's ride height is as close to square (same L-to-R front and same L-to-R rear).   With a torsion bar car it is very easy to end up with odd measurements at the corners.  

And I will have the shop tune in all the caster that is possible with the stock front suspension.   Typically this hopes to end up about 2.5-3 degrees positive.   For those that might not be familiar, more positive caster assists the car in wanting to maintain a straight line and steering wheel self-returns to center.   The extreme example being a friend who ran Bonneville for a long time and they used 13 degrees positive caster !

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