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60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | So, I have this 1960 Imperial, and it is running great. Not driving much just now, we are having some pretty heavy monsoon weather and the car is in preservation mode in the shed. I have started to collect a couple spares like starter solenoid etc, and am wondering what I should be looking for to put into the ready use inventory. Any suggestions? I was thinking starter clutch and solenoid kit as well because the starter does get a work out because the car is not driven every day. Seems like you can find small parts for cheap if you keep your eyes open. ps, I am super paranoid of breaking the front windshield, but this is a big dollar item to buy and get here to Australia. (about $3 to 4 K !!) Steve Edited by 60 Imp 2015-03-03 6:49 AM | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Get Points, condenser, Cap, rotor, water pump, coil, ballast resistor, brake hoses, fuses, hoses, belts, muffler, wheel bearings, brake shoes, wheel cylinders/kits, and gaskets. Marc. | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Just curious. Are you just talking about common mechanical parts that might need replacing over time and what parts are available now that might be harder to find in the future or are you talking about correct used or NOS restoration stuff? For gerneral mechanical parts, I have a spare rebuilt starter, generator & regulator[but now is common GM alternator], rear brake shoes reshod[front converted to common disc parts], i have a pair of rear wheel cyls that I had brass sleeved, carb, new after market fuel pump, hoses, belts, front wheel & rear axle bearings, distributor & ign. parts and ballast resistor. These are all fairly commonly replaced parts and I keep a box of many of these parts in my spare wheel well on top of the spare especially when I take long trips. If you are talking about spare harder to find parts that you might need for a restoration or [hopefully never] some sort of damage repair? I say buy every and any part that you can afford to buy and store. Just don't get crazy and turn into a hoarder. I have a spare tailgate, ft. & rear bumpers, taillight housings & all lenses. From the doors forward parts are a little easier to find for my 60 Plymouth Suburban. If I find andthing for 60 Plymouth Suburban ONLY I will try to buy a spare. Idealy, a whole spare parts car. Oh, and anything plastic or vinyl that probably won't be reproduced. If money and or storage space is tough, everything is rebuildable if you can deal with the down time. Thanks what I keep for spares, Karl. Edited by udoittwo 2015-03-05 8:53 AM | ||
sconut1 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 782 Location: Edmonton, Alberta | You had a set of wheel cylinders re-sleeved? That's cool. Was it expensive to get done? Will a regular wheel cylinder rebuild kit now work on your wheel cylinders? | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | sconut1 - 2015-03-10 11:43 PM You had a set of wheel cylinders re-sleeved? That's cool. Was it expensive to get done? Will a regular wheel cylinder rebuild kit now work on your wheel cylinders? I bought a pair of NORS cylinders from NAPA a while back. They lasted around 4 months and then started sticking so the brakes would get REALLY hot. So, I replaced each one and now those are sticking. I bought yet another NORS set and sent them out[brand new] to be resleeved with brass. Reading all about resleeving, stainless is a lot more expensive and doesn't give you much more life than brass, which will last the lifetime of me, you and your car + they said stainless has more issues with the holes lining up[?] and moving in the cylinders. It cost me a little over $100 for the pair and I got them back in just a few days. IF you have originals and don't ever want to mess with them again, get them resleeved. No more issues with pitting in the cylinders or wear as coppro/nickle is much stronger than cast iron. The wheel cylinders I used were made in China but I went with Wagner rebuild lits once they were resleeved. I honestly believed the problem with the NORS ones was the rubber parts were not the right size[?]. They will resleeve then to the size they were unless you request something different. P.S. - if you ever start working on the brake lines, switch to copro/nickle. It has a higher bursting strength than the standard steel, it will resist corrosion until you are long gone and it looks really nice. A little more expensive but you can buy 25 feet[enough for 1 car] of it plus a bunch of fittings for less than $50 on ePay. Later, Karl. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Who resleeved you cylinders? marc. | ||
KcImperial |
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Expert Posts: 2490 Location: Kansas City, KS | I keep a stash of the following (stock up when finding cheap) and regularly use them Door handles - inner and outer Door latches! Brake booster Switches - headlight, windows, etc Tail lamp lenses | ||
JT Vincent |
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Expert Posts: 1493 Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | Door handles - inner and outer-- easy to find, although ones without pits are hard to find (especially the outer ones). Door latches! - some of the yard guys on here have those. Brake booster - easy to find, a few hundred US$ to refurb. Switches - headlight, windows, etc --The dimmer switch is a $12 part. The rest, no idea. Tail lamp lenses | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2631 Location: Minor Hill, TN | Why don't you convert to electronic ignition that way you will not have to worry about points. In the future I plan to convert my '61 to electronic ignition | ||
Ray |
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Expert Posts: 1497 Location: Fairfax, Minnesota | 1961plymouthfury - 2015-04-12 2:24 AM Why don't you convert to electronic ignition that way you will not have to worry about points. In the future I plan to convert my '61 to electronic ignition I installed a pertronix 12 years ago and have always been concerned that it would fail and parts/replacement would be a few days away. I think I will take the advice of several forum members find a backup points distributor to carry in the trunk for my next road trip. | ||
PlymouthFury |
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Expert Posts: 1324 Location: Hickory, NC | Its very easy to install a 1970s MoPar Electronic Ignition system in your FL car. The LA318 distributor bolts right into a Poly 318. RB and B distributors can be bought as well. Minor wiring needed and mounting of the ICM and ballast resistor. (They can be hidden if needed) These systems are virtually bulletproof and all parts can be readily bought off the shelf at parthouses. Always carry a spare ICM and ballast resistor. | ||
davidsmith |
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New User Posts: 3 | I also had my pertronix installed a few years ago. There are great advices to be found on this forum. | ||
vasilick |
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New User Posts: 3 | I`m new to this forum, but I already found a few great threads that interest me. Looks like it was a great idea to become part of this community. | ||
duanearr |
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New User Posts: 2 | Rotor, brake fuses, brake shoes,hoses, belts, wheel bearings, water pump, wheel cylinders/kits....these are the parts I had to change lately .... | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2631 Location: Minor Hill, TN | It will never hurt to stock up on spare parts | ||
ruchaven |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: York County, PA | Welcome to the new members. Update your profile so we know where you'all are from. Catch ya later. | ||
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