This day I cleaned the A-Pillar moldings (posts left/right on the windshield). These are made out of die cast (zinc).

The dashboard chrome molding around the aluminum plates are looking really sad (cleaned as well). The aluminum plates I'll replace with reproduction from Jan.

Some more parts from the parts stack in my attic are visible. E.g. the directional switch.

Happy New Year!

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8242 A-Pillar molding cleaned.JPG)

(IMG_8241 Dashboard bezels and part of directional signal switch.JPG)

IMG_8242 A-Pillar molding cleaned.JPG (286KB - 361 downloads)

IMG_8241 Dashboard bezels and part of directional signal switch.JPG (316KB - 357 downloads)

Today I was lucky, I got a thermostat housing (thank you Nathan) that looks surprisingly identical to the one on the engine and a NOS cap for the power steering pump. The original power steering pump cap I brushed with the rotating brush and discovered a rusting through hole and heavy corrotion ontop of the cap. The rubber seal on the other hand is still fine. There was no water inside the power steering pump.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: condition of the die cast parts of the passenger compartment. Most probably made out of Zamak 3. Humidity (greater than 65%) is a main factor for blisters and pittings (as signs of zinc pest). Parts made after 1960 are usually considered free of the risk of zinc pest since the use of purer materials and more controlled manufacturing conditions make zinc pest degradation unlikely (wikipedia)

Long time at the body&paint shop to visit my Letter and helping mounting a rear fender of a 2019 Renault Clio. I marked some resting issues and showed it to the boss, e.g. the hole under the drivers side rear seat. it should be flat and round as the one on the passenger side. The trunk floor is in work now (recessions on the welding line).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8266 front foot well area passenger side.JPG)

(IMG_8267 front foot well area drivers side.JPG)

(IMG_8268 rear seat area passenger side.JPG)

(IMG_8270 rear seat area drviers side.JPG)

IMG_8266 front foot well area passenger side.JPG (256KB - 356 downloads)

IMG_8267 front foot well area drivers side.JPG (258KB - 345 downloads)

IMG_8268 rear seat area passenger side.JPG (264KB - 356 downloads)

IMG_8270 rear seat area drviers side.JPG (299KB - 351 downloads)

First of all a question. What do you use to close the gaps at both A pillar base junction to the rocker panel?

On the passenger side the jumping cracker is history (I'm very, very happy - got my Letter with that jumping cracker, noticeable even with the carpet installed). On the drivers side rear passnger seat floor, the hole is round again and the floor is even like before (destoryed by the lock smith shop, with no notification).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8314 A pillar base passenger side.JPG)

(IMG_8315 A pillar base drivers side.JPG)

(IMG_8316 rear passenger floor drivers side.JPG)

(IMG_8317 foot well passenger side.JPG)

IMG_8314 A pillar base passenger side.JPG (151KB - 352 downloads)

IMG_8315 A pillar base drivers side.JPG (169KB - 352 downloads)

IMG_8316 rear passenger floor drivers side.JPG (153KB - 346 downloads)

IMG_8317 foot well passenger side.JPG (141KB - 335 downloads)

I hope Dieter, soon you will come to the lucky part of your restoration. Have you all parts ready for assemble?

Good Luck!   - SERGE -

The propeller shaft is free from rust. Pending works are coat of final color, replacement of the u-joint, replacement of the dust boot and a new grease package (2 ounces, 56 gramm).

(2) The propeller shaft is finally painted. I'm waiting for the parts ordered at RockAuto. After I got the notification, I'll visit Leif to visit him and pick up the parcel. I'm asking me, if the dust boot already once has been replaced. I'm missing two tabs at the front cover of the B/T.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8327 rear end propeller shaft.JPG)

(IMG_8332 front end propeller shaft.JPG)

IMG_8327 rear end propeller shaft.JPG (188KB - 333 downloads)

IMG_8332 front end propeller shaft.JPG (123KB - 332 downloads)

I got the new brake lines this morning. Checked the content of the parcel and packed the brake lines into the box again (waiting to be installed) in my attic.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8351 new brake lines.JPG)

IMG_8351 new brake lines.JPG (306KB - 331 downloads)

Thanks for your question. No, I'm keeping the original four drum set up. For the speed of the traffic in Switzerland it's enough. For sure with a disk brake set up at the front axle, the braking power would be better, but no chance to get the historic state when getting to the traffic administration.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

I did a phone call to the engine restorer.. the engine block is at the zyinder grinder shop. At the restorers the crankshaft has been polished (.01 under size prior polishing - once grinded is the judgement of the engine restorer). Bearings for the crankshaft and camshaft are ordered.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

The body and paint shop owner works very carefully (more than most generic swiss professionals). We visited the freshly primed Letter and discussed about the further steps. The body&paint shop owner announced, that the rear end is almost finished.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8418 rear end three quarts view passenger side.JPG)

(IMG_8419 driver side rear end sight to the front.JPG)

(IMG_8421 passenger side rear end.JPG)

IMG_8418 rear end three quarts view passenger side.JPG (315KB - 302 downloads)

IMG_8419 driver side rear end sight to the front.JPG (288KB - 302 downloads)

IMG_8421 passenger side rear end.JPG (284KB - 302 downloads)

As almost ever Saturday moring I did visit the paint and body shop. The boss (owner) worked at my Letter. The passenger side rear panels are almost finished. The four dark spots are small recessions (0.1 millimeters or less). We walked around my Letter and were discussing the work to be performed at the rear end panel. The boss  will do a final inspection and correct small imperfections all around prior to apply the primer. The the sanding will be done and the final layers of the original color will be applied. From the boss I heard, all imperfections will be solved prior the final layers of the original color. So there is no correction at the surface with the final coatings of the original color (the boss worked some certain time to get the formula of that color).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8484 passenger side quarter panel.JPG)

IMG_8484 passenger side quarter panel.JPG (209KB - 286 downloads)

This morning I visited the shop again. The drivers side wing is almost finished. There is only a slight surface of filler (just with the primer there is no correction without filler).

Happy Restoring

Dieter

BTW: the most left hand part of the vertical line of the rear sheet metal the boss will adjust the line. It's about 1 centimeter to high compared to the correct passenger side area. The tempory body worker made an error.

(IMG_8514 drivers side wing almost finished.JPG)

IMG_8514 drivers side wing almost finished.JPG (343KB - 273 downloads)

Little further progress at the 300 F. Checking the clearance around the tail lights. Last Saturday the owner of the body and paint shop told me, he did order the primer for the 300 F.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8611 tail lights fit in - check.JPG)

IMG_8611 tail lights fit in - check.JPG (233KB - 252 downloads)

this afternoon I did open the B/T of the propeller shaft of my Letter. There was a big, big load of old grease inside (all small parts cleaned with White Spirit). One button doesn't look that nice.
Ways earlier while shifting the B/T-case forth and back while putting force CW and CCW (during shifting and pulling) I didn't feel any scores.

What to do now?

(2) Some time back I purchased a B/T overhaul kit, containing the pin, 2 rollers, needle bearing, 2 shoes, 2 springs, two rubber O-rings, case cover (/wo "Detroit" stamp) and the gasket.

The original cover has/had two missing tabs, an eaten up gasket and two bumps in the covers from the rollers. It fits the completely crushed driver side rear axle rubber stop on the rail over the axle (replaced on both sides).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8690 ball-trunion internal cleaning and surprise.JPG)

IMG_8690 ball-trunion internal cleaning and surprise.JPG (282KB - 235 downloads)

It's almost impossible to get a NOS b&t restoring kit with a good housing... for me.

I guess it's the Chrysler Joint Package 1739 680 (16-03-1 in the 1960 Chrysler parts catalog).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

I'm just asking myself if the b/t-case is not to salvagealbe?

The damage is on one side where the shoe rides. The output torque of the transmission (highest at the transition from stand still to drive under full throttle) is transferred over the parallel, good surfaces.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

of course the singers politeness is quite

(IMG_8693 ball trunnion case inside.JPG)

IMG_8693 ball trunnion case inside.JPG (220KB - 233 downloads)

Big thank you for your comment.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I had a phone call to the engine restorer. The engine block is right now at the cylinder grinder shop since some time.

56D500boy - 2021-05-12 8:21 PM . Dieter: Check your bluemail email.

thanks Dave

It's 4.25 inch (around 10.8 centimeters)

As far as I know, the same size like on the 1956 New Yorker, because the restoring kit from epain I purchased ways earlier than I purchased the 300 F.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Dear Sven

For sure a NOS will last ways longer than a preused. I do not drive ten-thousands of miles every year (neither with the NY nor in future with the 300 F). Actually we all will not know what the future will bring (e.g. how long will we be able to get fuel for our beaties nor how long we will stay on live. But for sure another 60 years I will not survive ( would turn almost to 120 years old, more than the maximum biological livespan of a human). For absolutely sure I will not convert one of my Chrysler cars to an electric drive. In my opinion every oldtimer already converted lost his soul.

Stay healthy, kind regards to Ingegerd as well

Dieter

BTW: I know (read) that Porsche and some industrial co-investors will erect a plant to produce eco-friendly fuel for old Porsche cars (a Liter, a little bit more than a liquid quart) will most probably cost CHF 4 to CHF 5 (USD 19 to USD 23.- every gallon).

Actually I have the worst case scenario at the drive line (transmission, e-brake drum, propeller shaft)...

I'm getting a 4 3/8" B/T, hopefully cut at the front welding seam of the propeller shaft. The brake drum (on the existing A466) fit's the small (4") B/T (with a discolored pin and a beyond repair body). The A466 transmission is a Plymouth High Power version. At the parts catalog I noticed several 59" propeller shafts for different cars (apparently some with the small B/T and some with the big B/T). At an uncertain time at my 300 F not only the original A466 has been dropped, but the propeller shaft as well. I hope that a very, very kind (and positiv thinking about me) would like to investigate where the original transmission sits and will inform me.

I know a very precise working mechanic shop rebuilding propeller shafts as well (when I visited their site, I realised, that this would had been a valuable alternative for rebuilding the engine).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW:

original propeller shaft: 1856 933
original brake drum:     1857 032
original A466:              1949 808

Hi Sven you might be right. But it's not only the parts price for the brake drum and the propeller shaft, the shipping costs (plus import fees, car parts additional fee and VAT) are a big factor as well. I guess I do not have to hurry. I got several more weeks delay for the body and the engine (at least the engine is/was at the cylinder grinder shop since/for few weeks, I'm more interested that the body&paint shop owner works on cars (BMW from a dealer) that bring him good money). I don't know your opinion, but for the car power test stand, I could use the existing propeller shaft slightly shaved the brows at the inside of one arm in the case and use the propeller shaft sub project for my next winter holiday season.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

The first trial with the 2001 Dodge Neon CV boot 614-001 at the temporary wrong propeller shaft mounted for break in and power test of the engine. The brows in the case I shaved with a small, round rasp. I used silicone oil instead of grease. But I was able to work the boot through the case with loads of patience and no #@*&^%.

I still hope I'll get a 1658 931 or 1658 933 propeller shaft from Williams CA, 95987

Happy Restoring

Dieter

The first trial with the 2001 Dodge Neon CV boot 614-001 at the temporary wrong propeller shaft mounted for break in and power test of the engine. The brows in the case I shaved with a small, round rasp. I used silicone oil instead of grease. But I was able to work the boot through the case with loads of patience and no #@*&^%.

I still hope I'll get a 1658 931 or 1658 933 propeller shaft from Williams CA, 95987

Happy Restoring

Dieter

BTW: other members here will discover immediatly what fault I did.... (;)

(IMG_8699 wrong propeller shaft first trial with the CV boot.JPG)

IMG_8699 wrong propeller shaft first trial with the CV boot.JPG (246KB - 225 downloads)

Hi Sid

Yes, but until now no answer...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

I got an answer from John (Big M). More later on.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

I know, if I'll get the parts I have to restore a second propeller shaft and brake drum, I guess, both will be black (brake drum satin, propeller shaft glossy)

I'm getting the parts I did wish to get. Big thank you to John Fowlie.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

On the license frame (rear) the plate is flat. The whole assembly has minor surface rust. But both threaded stems are shot. One broke off during removal from the body, on the other I could not turn the hex nut to the bottom end. As you can see, the flat button (top view) is spot welded to the bracket with several spots. First I tried to free the circumference with the Dremel. Then I destroyed two drills while trying to drill through the spots.

Next Saturday the big angle grinder to work the buttons from top to down to remove both stems. With no threaded stems the bracket is easier to clean.

I guess this solution has been chosen by Chrysler Coorperation back in the days to shorten the mounting time on the assembly line. Space for an allen or a hex screw is more than enough.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8727 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder bottom.JPG)

(IMG_8726 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder top view.JPG)

IMG_8727 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder bottom.JPG (174KB - 217 downloads)

IMG_8726 mounting bracket hinge of the license plate holder top view.JPG (176KB - 231 downloads)

Hi Dave

Thanks a lot. I got the message from John and paid the requested amount.

This morning I visited the body and paint-shop once again. The owner said, he wanted to give me a surprise... following pictures are some of the collection I got from the owner of the body and paint-shop. Every time my Letter was resting for a natural coring time of the layer - no heat or infrared lamp to enforce the curing time.

Happy Restauration!

Dieter

BTW: asking for August 2021 to be finished... depends on how many regular cars are dropping in.

(20210526_182812 three quart rear view drivers side first layer of filler.jpg)

(20210526_182822 three quart rear view passenger side first layer of filler.jpg)

(20210526_195225 view to inside passenger floor and part trunk floor.jpg)

(20210526_195232 view to inside foot well and propeller shaft tunnel.jpg)

(20210526_195237 view to the trunk floor.jpg)

(20210527_170553 three quart rear view passenger side one more primer layer.jpg)

(20210527_170600 three quart rear view drivers side one more primer layer.jpg)

(20210528_092131 marker layer all over as I met my Letter.jpg)

20210526_182812 three quart rear view drivers side first layer of filler.jpg (291KB - 229 downloads)

20210526_182822 three quart rear view passenger side first layer of filler.jpg (295KB - 224 downloads)

20210526_195225 view to inside passenger floor and part trunk floor.jpg (157KB - 224 downloads)

20210526_195232 view to inside foot well and propeller shaft tunnel.jpg (171KB - 229 downloads)

20210526_195237 view to the trunk floor.jpg (169KB - 213 downloads)

20210527_170553 three quart rear view passenger side one more primer layer.jpg (254KB - 217 downloads)

20210527_170600 three quart rear view drivers side one more primer layer.jpg (247KB - 221 downloads)

20210528_092131 marker layer all over as I met my Letter.jpg (252KB - 221 downloads)

Thank you Ralf, it will be a stunning pearl (body wise).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

For the steering pump of my Letter I purchased a stock NOS cap moparts # 2120 617. It's too small, it would fall into the filler neck of the P/S pump I got with my Letter. Will see if I got another than stock pump with the belt tensioner.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Both front fenders are under work again to level out the last and smallest imperfections. Some work on the body performed as well.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: thank you for shipping at John.

BTW2: pls do not complain about the plaster. As you can see on the drivers side fender, almost all will be shaved off (pls keep in mind, that - from the factory - a thick layer of filler under the final coat was applied back in the time where these cars were build - not only American, but European cars as well).

(IMG_8805 front fender drivers side.JPG)

(IMG_8806 front fender passenger side.JPG)

IMG_8805 front fender drivers side.JPG (320KB - 196 downloads)

IMG_8806 front fender passenger side.JPG (437KB - 185 downloads)

Thanks for your clarification. At the pictures of the freshly sand blasted body you might see some lead filler. It doesn't shave off when sand blasting, but I guess most of the imperfection came from the street with the about three or four pre-owner (rear drivers side fender replaced, front drivers side fender replaced (light yellow appeared under the drivers side rear mirror) and ... not to talk about the accident damage at the passenger side front).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I don't know if the model year consultant of the Chrysler 300 Club Internation just looked after the originality or if he discovered all damages at the body as well. From the seller and the Chrysler 300 Club Internation I know, that I got an original 300 F.

Even the passenger side front fender lost most of the plaster. Between the fender wheel bow and the front light bezel there is a little bit more plaster (on primer, not on bare metal!) because of the hammering out of a (most probably) accident-damage.

The surface on the roof is grinded down and completly smooth now. Both C-pillar have a really small area where the surface is a little bit lower (marker color slightly shaved) to correct.

Sooner, or later, I have to call the engine restorers to ask for the actual state of the engine.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Both front fender got primer again (truck chassis primer quality). The passenger side front fender has a really slight dent (only visible with light/shadow border, almost not while stroking with fingers along the fender) just ahead of the flake type dust.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_8845 drivers side front fender.JPG)

(IMG_8846 passeger side front fender.JPG)

IMG_8845 drivers side front fender.JPG (315KB - 178 downloads)

IMG_8846 passeger side front fender.JPG (267KB - 177 downloads)

Today I got the power steering pump cap Mopar parts # 2127 284. It's the correct cap for the power steering pump I removed from the engine.

Furthermore I found a source for the carpet (super plush quality, black, custom molded) and the correct jute sound and heat deadener (plus some square feet flat carpet for the center console I just have to measure, what the surface area is).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter