The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

1958 Dodge ball joint removal.
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Steering and SuspensionMessage format
 
local2Ed
Posted 2015-01-20 4:47 PM (#468131)
Subject: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 580
500252525
I'm going to be doing ball joints and bushings on my 1958 Coronet soon and was wondering what is the preferred tool/method to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle?

Also the alignment shop I spoke to said the upper control arms have the adjustment in the bolts that go through the bushings but the FSM says the caster/camber is adjusted by shims. I believe the upper control arm bolts, that go through the bushings, do not adjust anything, is that correct?

Here are some prices the shop quoted me just for LABOR:
4 balljoints installed, labor only- $180.00
4 upper control arm bushings installed, labor only-$150.00
Both side strut rod bushings installed, labor only-$100.00
Align front end- $55.00

Are these prices reasonable?
When I've done ball joints on newer cars before the hardest part for me was getting the ball joint/tie rod stud out from the spindle.
Any tip would be appreciated.

Thanks
Top of the page Bottom of the page
60 dart
Posted 2015-01-20 5:21 PM (#468133 - in reply to #468131)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8947
50002000100050010010010010025
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA
ball joint push out tool below is like what is used , just make sure you get the correct length one , i build my own ----------------------------------------- later

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-J-26407-Ball-Joint-Separator-Rem...



(ball joint tool 003.JPG)



(ball joint tool 004.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments ball joint tool 003.JPG (130KB - 151 downloads)
Attachments ball joint tool 004.JPG (130KB - 153 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
local2Ed
Posted 2015-01-24 9:40 PM (#468521 - in reply to #468133)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 580
500252525
60 dart - 2015-01-20 5:21 PM

ball joint push out tool below is like what is used , just make sure you get the correct length one , i build my own ----------------------------------------- later

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-J-26407-Ball-Joint-Separator-Rem...

I see yours has two bolts compared to one on the kent-moore could you explain why?
I can't tell from the picture but is the head of your bolt concave or flat?
Fine thread or standard bolt/nut?

Thanks for the link and the picture of yours.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
sconut1
Posted 2015-01-30 9:42 PM (#469043 - in reply to #468131)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.


Elite Veteran

Posts: 782
500100100252525
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Hi 60 Dart..... I made a tool similar to yours. So how much pressure are you supposed to crank this up to? My manual says to tighten it until there is pressure between the two ball joints, then ...paraphrasing there.... aggressively "rap" on the knuckle. I've been rapping (no smart comments here) for awhile and the ball joint is not coming loose. Manual says not to attempt to remove the ball joint with the tool alone.

So, my question for you is.... are you supposed to crank this tool up hard, or just until there's pressure and then smack the crap out of the knuckle? It's upper ball joints I'm doing. I would like to save my ball joints as they are in pretty good shape.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Joe Mac
Posted 2015-05-11 12:53 PM (#477998 - in reply to #468131)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 314
100100100
Location: Fairfield County, CT
I also made a tool that looks like Chuck's but I left one end open to slip over the opposite ball joint stud. I've broken loose some very old ball joints with this by preloading the stud with a lot of pressure. The hammer shot needs to be full swing and square to the side of the stud socket. If you hit it at an angle it won't release. Always works, haven't done any damage yet
Top of the page Bottom of the page
60 dart
Posted 2015-05-11 5:46 PM (#478014 - in reply to #468131)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8947
50002000100050010010010010025
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA
don't know how i missed the earlier questions . i'm here 5-6 times a day . the reason i used 2 bolts was to give it more than enough length and those i had layin around . they are fine
thread and also the heads were concave'd with a 9/16 bit , with depth being just enough not to slide off the ball joint stem . when i tighten the spreader , i give it about all i can . when i used this
one it popped without rappin with a beater . the reason being , they were removed a time or two for various reasons . by experience though i would have to say go for as much pressure as you
think you can give it . if you have to rap it with a good sized beater , go for it but most importantly DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE THE B-JOINT NUTS----------------------------------------later


as a post script , as a kid i never had fancy tools nor the means to fab em . i would just beat em til they released
with a 2-3lb. beater and never had a problem after the repair .

Edited by 60 dart 2015-05-11 5:50 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
59 in Calif
Posted 2015-05-11 7:43 PM (#478023 - in reply to #468131)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1102
1000100
Location: Hayward, Calif
Just a word of caution,,,, take a small wire brush and clean off all the built up rust and crud off the threaded end of the ball joint where the threads protrude thru the control arm. It's easy to miss this on the upper control arm. I did and took out most of the threads in the control arm. Luckily my machinist buddy was able to save it and installed the new ball joint. I also had him replace that big lower control arm bushing, sounded like this was definately a job to be done with a press. The spindles came loose with a couple heavy blows with a big hammer. Kinda like Chuck, I never had any fancy tools as a kid ether. Jerry
Top of the page Bottom of the page
ronbo97
Posted 2015-05-11 9:10 PM (#478037 - in reply to #478023)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.


Expert

Posts: 4034
2000200025
Location: Connecticut

Does your shop realize that these ball joints are threaded and that there is a special socket that is used to remove the ball joints (Snap-on S9365A) from the control arms ?

When I separated the ball joints from the steering knuckle, I'm fairly sure I just used a pickle fork and a 3 lb. sledge.

Ron

Top of the page Bottom of the page
LD3 Greg
Posted 2015-05-11 9:11 PM (#478038 - in reply to #478023)
Subject: Re: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.


Expert

Posts: 1906
1000500100100100100
Location: Ontario, Canada
57-58 cars used shims for alignment.

Here is my second attempt for a ball joint removal tool. It fits Dodge/Ply as well as Chrysler/ Desoto and captures both the upper and lower studs so it can't slip. 3/4" course thread nut welded to a piece of 3/4" pipe and a 3/4" bolt with a ring of 1/2" pipe welded to the head of the bolt. I apply a lot of pressure as you can well imagine with both an 1 1/4" and 1 1/8" wrench.

Greg



(image.jpg)



(image.jpg)



(image.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments image.jpg (110KB - 152 downloads)
Attachments image.jpg (102KB - 143 downloads)
Attachments image.jpg (110KB - 154 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
local2Ed
Posted 2015-05-11 10:40 PM (#478043 - in reply to #468131)
Subject: RE: 1958 Dodge ball joint removal.


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 580
500252525
I've been meaning to update my original post but I see several have replied with the questions I asked in the original post.
Anyway I ended up making my own. (Thanks for the pictures Chuck)
I bought a 3/4 -16 (fine thread) x 2.25 long coupling nut @ $3.68ea.
A 3/4-16 x 2.50 length bolt @ $1.32ea. Bought both of these from Fastenal because I wanted fine thread and nobody carried fine in any of the hardware stores around.
I then drilled the head of the bolt with a 3/4 bit to give it a concave to keep it from slipping off the ball joint stud.
I am fairly certain they were the original Ball joints in there but I tightened up the tool in place, with the nut loosened, and hit the knuckle between two hammers and I believe it was two whacks and it popped loose.
I you need to make it longer another bolt could be used like the one in Chucks picture but the above lengths worked just fine on my 1958 Dodge Coronet.
I was then able to unscrew them "fairly easy" using the correct snap-on socket.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

* * * This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated * * *


(Delete all cookies set by this site)