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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Brakes, Wheels and Tires | Message format |
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1351 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | A couple weeks ago, I had the hub/drums, shoes, wheel cyls, and axles replaced on my stock 60 Suburban. Last week end, I took a 2 hr drive. I heard the Rt. rear rubbing when I would slow down. I sat on a very slight grade out of gear and it rolled fine. Felt the wheel and it was warmer than the others but I figured I could get home OK. It continued making the noise and the drum would get hot. I was leaving to take it back to the garage that did the brake work and pulled out of my drive and I had very little pedal. I figured I probably melted a cylinder piston. Which it did. That's why I am a firm believer in the safety of the dual reservoir MC. I had enough pedal to safely drive it to a local garage. They said they were adjusted a little tight but not much. They replaced the wheel cylinder and cleaned the shoes. Seemed OK for a couple days until I went on a longer drive and then I could hear it dragging again. I had tighten the pedal rod a little before all this happened, so I thought it was too tight and backed it off but no difference. What would cause 1 wheel to drag? I could only think of 2 things. I guess a collapsed or slightly clogged line to that wheel might do that or is this what weak springs might do? I know finding springs has come up in these forums several times but I don't recall anyone saying the 11" x 2" springs are readily available. IF I missed that, where can I find 4 #1944 258 springs? IF they are not easy to find, my local spring company may have them or I can see what it might cost to have a bunch made if enough people were interested? This company has had about every type spring I've ever needed or they could make them. All I would need is a sample. Would anyone have one they could part with? Just looked in my 1960 parts manual. It only lists 2 different return springs for 1960. One for all 12" drums and 1 for all 11" drums "except Suburban". Must mean for the front only. Suburbans fronts use an 11 1/2" x 2" drum. Rears use same shoes as all 1960-61 MOPARs with 11" x 2" so the rear springs should be the same as all 11" x 2" also. Thanks, Karl. | ||
dodge59 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1018 Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin | apparently those shoes got wet with brake fluid when the wheel cyl melted down.. that brake fluid will always creep to the top surface when the shoes get warm then they will pull or grab when you apply the brakes. install a new set of shoes and will be fine.. you will never get that oil out of those shoes they are junk. I went thru all of this several times on other cars. | ||
mobileparts |
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Veteran Posts: 254 | I have N.O.S. ++ ASBESTOS ++ Brake Shoes -- and you would do your car WELL to use only them -- and your braking will be smooth and beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935.... New York.... I've been led to believe the return springs have now been repro'ed but they are pricey --- can get them , too.... | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1351 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | So, what does happen if the springs get weak? Do the brakes drag? I've found NOS ones at Collectors Auto Supply for $10 each. I guess it won't hurt to have a spare set? | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 Location: Perth Australia | The springs are what pulls the shoes away from the drum and forces the fluid back to the master cylinder Weak springs means the shoes dont move away properly Also, if you think about it, if the springs are weak on one brake only, because its a single circuit brake system, when you apply the brake, the weak springed brake will apply first because its the easiest one to move and will come off last because the pressure from the fluid returning to the master cylinder will hold the brake shoes out longer Only happens on drum brakes, no springs on discs | ||
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