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push radiator fan using a generator question Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | will my 60 , 30 amp generator support the fan below -------------------------------------------------later http://www.ebay.com/itm/331245145817?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_t... | ||
jimntempe |
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Expert Posts: 2312 Location: Arizona | I have a Ford T-bird fan on my Firebird. It's considered a fairly heavy draw fan. I measured the current draw for it on high and it was around 18 amps, way less than the horror stories I'd heard. I think it drew about 25 when it started up. So I'd figure that fan you are looking at would draw about 15 amps. On my 60 Dodge I found that driving in teh city at night (lights on) was too much draw for the generator and the battery would slowly go dead. If you add up the power it takes to run all the basic stuff, ignition, running lights, headlights, heater fan, brake lights you are proably pushing 15 to 20 amps for that stuff. For a standard generator that doesn't leave much spare capacity. Adding the fan might be ok on a highway trip but around town sitting at lights I think you'll be in trouble if you add the draw of the fan. | ||
rushpowersystems |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 524 Location: West Jordan | 60 dart - 2014-10-24 12:02 AM will my 60 , 30 amp generator support the fan below -------------------------------------------------later http://www.ebay.com/itm/331245145817?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&am...
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Rodger |
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Expert Posts: 1506 Location: Colo Spgs | Hola All The Engine Cooling Fan is only needed if you are under 20 MPH. If you are over 20 MPH The Speed of the vehicle will push/ force the needed Volume of Air to and through The Radiator. If you can not get to 20 MPH and maintain it --- the other replies are correct. Rodger & Gabby Colo Spgs | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | pretty much what i thought already , just needed a little guidance . so what amp would be needed with no real electrical add on's to the car . this i have no idea about--------------------------------------------later | ||
rushpowersystems |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 524 Location: West Jordan | If you swap out your tail lights for LED bulbs and you run a larger crank pulley you may pull it off with a 50-60 amp gen. But even with a 7.5” crank I don’t think you will generate enough power to run the fan, it will not spin fast enough to make a difference. You would get more bang for your buck with a washer tank and pump so you can mist the radiator at idle, did many a parade that way. Or put an alternator in it. (Now I will sit back as the peanut gallery tells me how wrong I am) | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | I would rather ask the question why you would need an electric fan in the first place? | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Hello Peanut gallery here I wouldnt bother with a bigger crank pully on a generator unless you really want to see a birds nest as the armature windings get flung out I am pretty sure Chuck didnt go to all the trouble of building that engine (I assume its for your stroker poly) to drive at low speeds Chuck, if your going to load up the electrics with a mod con or 2, go the alternator route, but think of what you want in the car and what you have already to work out how big your alternator has to be. If this fan is going to just be there to turn on and off in a parrade (short cruise) situation, you could do it as is, but you would have to remember to let the car charge its battery (or/and put it on a charger) when you get it home and you would want a voltmeter stashed in there somewhere as well (although, if your going to be running your charging system in the negative (discharging), you might be better with an amp meter as well so you can see how much is going in/out of the battery I dont like ammeters in cars though Long story short, put an alternator on it | ||
rushpowersystems |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 524 Location: West Jordan | ^LOL, was not talking about you. you seem to agree with me 90% of the time so i have no problem with someone who is only wrong 10% of the time ;)> But not to split hairs but 7.5" is what most factory AC cars had, so as long as it is not hitting 7K to 8K i think it would be fine. | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Being an auto elec, I am never wrong, sometimes misled, sometimes slightly confused, but never wrong | ||
rushpowersystems |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 524 Location: West Jordan | nothing to add, just wanted the last word. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | BigBlockMopar - 2014-10-24 6:25 PM I would rather ask the question why you would need an electric fan in the first place? you know the stroker story is a long one with no good at any chapter but the last time i started it , it got hot , hellish hot . just tryin now to think of any options i have left to make this motor work . i've even gone as far as using 3 gallon of white vinegar , followed by soda rinse , followed by 3 gallon of metal restore . i know for fact it's now cleaner but how much i really don't know . the aluminum radiator i used first was a touch smaller than oem . this time around it'll be a touch bigger . who knows how this will work but i do know it wouldn't take much more for me to just take a torch and cut it up into tiny pieces . didn't even tell ya about the fuel pump eccentric being fried "burnt blue" ----------------------later | ||
VAN HELSING |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 982 Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | .......... Agree with Rodger, after approx 20 mph you don't need a fan, my daily driver I've had for 7 yrs still doesn't get hot and it's never had a fan yet in all our hot Australian summers. I do mainly highway driving hence I don't need a fan. If you aren't a purist but still want that generator look you can buy an Alternator that looks like a generator if you want to run that fan. I'm sure they make 'em in the US but here's one that's made in Australia. Rated at 60 amps. http://www.caenterprises.com.au/products.php ......... | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | I wasn't aware you had a stroker motor in the car and I understand that if you've been battling heatrelated issues than a simple electric fan will be a interesting thing to try. But think about the fact that an electric powerdraw on the system will also make the alternator work harder, which will make the engine have to work slightly harder aswell, esp. at lower rpms. Have you tried going through all the 'basic' items like ignition timing recurve, proper fan shroud, blocking off false air coming back around the radiator and such? Vacuum advance hooked up on full intake vacuum? | ||
Rodger |
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Expert Posts: 1506 Location: Colo Spgs | Hola Yo'll In 1960 a 30 AMP Unit was a "base unit". If the vehicle was equipped with some more electrical items it was 35 AMPs and if it had every Electrical Item in their book - the unit was 40 AMPs ( Dual A/C - Every Window Electric ( front Vent Windows too )- Six Way Electric Front Seat - Auto Pilot - Power Antenna - Electric Truck Lock Release - Rear Window De-Fogger ( NY State "must have" Requirement ) - Convertible and etc ). The total electrical system was spec'd to accept this load limit. This was standard or available in The Imperial Division and "over kill" with a Chrysler 300F with a 413 cubed engine because some items "a lower classed" ( De Soto/ Dodge or Plymouth ) vehicle never saw. As already stated by others the Marketing Fan that you want is not needed and if you do follow through - The 30 AMP Unit that you now have is Not Enough. Rodger & Gabby Colo Spgs Edited by Rodger 2014-10-25 12:10 PM | ||
55coronet440 |
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Veteran Posts: 272 Location: Missouri | Should be fairly easy and way better in the long run to swap an alternator in, AND switch to a voltmeter if you still have the ammeter. I made a voltmeter to replace the ammeter and it matches my other stock gauges. | ||
Beltran |
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Expert Posts: 1730 Location: Michigan | Speaking from experience, if you plan to idle anywhere with your head lights on, you got about an hour of that before your battery won't start the car after you stop. Those gen's just don't charge at idle so you draw off the battery. Taking my electric fan off and going to a clutch unit. I would go cruise woodward in traffic for a bit then head home with 20 min ride on the freeway at 70+mph. I would have to routinely charge the battery overnight to keep it topped off for the next run. I also had a adjustable temp sensor that only turned on the fan when the engine got really hot. I am also looking hard at going to the look alike alternator, but I then have to move my powersteering pump off the back of the gen to another one that mounts on the engine like standard units today. Edited by Beltran 2015-01-21 7:47 PM | ||
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