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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
 
Location: Park Hills, KY | As many of you 60 Chrysler folks may have seen other threads, I am in the process of repairing my parking brake. While the propeller shaft is out, I am going to replace the u joints. I found moot part # 246. It is listed as "super strength". Is this the right part? |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
  
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Actually, you only have one "true" universal joint, the rear one. Then there is the front one, which is called "Ball and Pin" (constant velocity) by Ma MoPar.
The Ball and pin can actually be still fine after all those years! - Just open it up and clean out the grease and inspect the races for damages and or brinelling.
Unfortunately, I don't have an old MOOG catalogue, so I can't help you with numbers or cross references. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Yeah...I hope I don't have to repair the ball and trunnion. I found a kit though on eBay......not sure if it fits. Wiz? Your thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1957-65-U-JOINT-W-TORQUEFLITE-TRA...
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That's the one and MoPar at that! The "yellow" ones are crap and wears out fast. Even if there's some wear, there is a "quickfix" from back then that Ian recently tried with good success. Keep us posted.... |
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Expert
Posts: 2289
Location: Eastern Iowa | That is the kit for the front "ball and trunion" joint.
If you are going to replace it, best find a shop w/the experience to do it.
DO NOT REMOVE the PIN!!
Removing and installing the pin is the problem, and it takes a press to do the job right as well as a fixture to hold the joint
to insure proper placement of the pin when reinstalling.
Read the FSM, it explains the procedure.
Manuals and parts books can be found here: http://www.jholst.net/300resource/index.php
download whet ever you need.
Good luck! |
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Expert
Posts: 3775
Location: NorCal |
The pin is a wear part, not much sense replacing everything but the pin if the pin is worn.
Much is made of the pin installation but it's not a problem with the correct equipment. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Wouldnt a rebuild kit for the ball and trunion be kind of useless without the housing?
I thought wear in the housing (at the normall, settled driving position) was the problem that caused the vibrations.
This is why putting a spacer between the b+t and the tail shaft fixes it, it moves the housing to a different spot
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Expert
Posts: 2289
Location: Eastern Iowa | In some cases I suspect vibration is caused by improper installation of the pin, i.e. not being centered properly.
Probably caused by a shade tree mechanic installation with a BFH and a tree stump for an anvil.
Best left to a pro at a driveline shop where they can balance the assl'y when done. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | wizard - 2014-08-20 10:50 AM
The Ball and pin can actually be still fine after all those years! - Just open it up and clean out the grease and inspect the races for damages and or brinelling.
what wizard said. properly serviced the b&t lasts forever. do not replace if its still good. just carefully clean and repack with quality synthetic grease. it will outlive you. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | That, my friend is what I plan to do. The only vibration I had prior was mild, and only when turning while goin up a steep grade, and then only inconsistently. I can hear a worn bearing-like sound that increases with the speed of the propeller shaft, but this is at the rear. I am having the u joint replaced since the shaft will already be off. I have been told that this vibrant on grade with less weight on one wheel is a result of the sure grip. Can anyone confirm this? |
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Expert
Posts: 3393
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | From here I don't think we could really tell, uphill should have no effect on the sure grip, around turns, yes. To add, if ft u joint pin measures or checks do not replace it, attempting to do so can be problematic. You could hold one wheel best as you can, then turn the other one to see if the sure grip is holding, not a definitive test, but short of pulling it out, something would be determined.
Edited by Shep 2014-08-20 9:00 PM
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Replacing u-joints - is this right part? any recommendations?
