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Elite Veteran
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Location: Southern California | Hi guys need some quick help, I just bought this new retrofitted electronic volt reg, that's in original style casing , can it be used with this square back alt (74 Chrysler 440) for my 58 Plymouth 440? It's the only one I could find with the dual fields/ isolated flds, problem is I need to replace my round back alt but mine has two tabs on back /fields where most have only one field.
Anyhow please let me know if below combo will work or where I can get a round back dual field
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Here's the one I need to replace with 2 flields, also any field can go to ground right?
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | All square backs (and some round backs) were intended to be “A” circuit, that is 12 volts is applied to one field tab and the regulator controls the field via the ground path. That regulator in the photo is a “B” circuit, the regulator sends voltage to the field circuit and the other side is sent to ground. You can convert it to a “B” by running a ground strap from the FLD tab that is nearest the ground stud, assuming that they installed a ground stud and that they installed the slip ring on the rotor correctly. A rotor has a positive and negative that translates to north and south poles. It will not work right if you reverse them but it is rare that that happens and is usually found when they bench test the alternator.
You can get the factory A or B regulator for less than $15, I never understood that, I know a few concourse judges, don’t know anyone who would notice the correct looking regulator and not notice the incorrect alternator.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Where can I get a A and B reg? Can u post me a link here? |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Or can u post me a link of a round back alternator with 2 fields/spades to match my volt reg above, thanks |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | Sorry let me clarify, you can buy the A or the B, there is not an A and B regulator. I don’t know how much parts houses sale them for but ours is less than $15 shipped. If you want one send me a note, Darren@rushps.com and I will look it up on Monday.
The way to tell if an alternator is an A or B is by how many tabs it has on the back, if it has 2 male connectors on the back it is an A, both will be insulated from the frame, if it has 1 male connector and the other one is a nut that is not insulated from the frame (ground path) it is a B alternator. This applies to both round and square back alternators. So the one you have in the photo is an A circuit alternator.
Just an FYI, we don’t deal in cheap China parts so we are more expensive but a 60 amp is around $125 and a 90 amp is around $150. Its more expensive because we use vintage OEM rotor parts and stator stacks and all copper windings, all other parts are 100% new. Quality parts are expensive, but to be honest if your electrical load is at or near stock, you are probably ok with a cheap China alternator.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Ok, so maybe you've helped solve my problem with my charging system, is it possible that I'm getting low volts because I've been running an A-circuit alt with a B -voltage regulator? The only difference was that my previous volt reg was the one style u see in the pic above but the mechanical type with points and resistors, I just bought the new one above which is original casing with electronic chip inside , I really want to use this reg, can you. Show me what alt I can use and keep this type of volt reg, it needs to be an alt with 2 male tabs.
The guy who built my drivetrain first put a 90 amp powermasters square back dual field (dual male tabs) with the mechanical style resistor type volt reg, then that wasn't charging so then we put a 60 amp dual field(dual male tab) alt (bestest alt) with the same volt reg and still just getting 12.19 volts idling. I'm getting so frustrated, I can't change my volt reg cause it's already been setup like the mechanical type one female ignition connector and one screw in field wire on the other end. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Found it looks like I can use my 69 and earlier points style voltage reg with my Chrysler 1974 dual field alternator as long as one field is connected to ground
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | Funny thing, I have never had someone ask me to install an engine or trans, in other words tell your drive train guy to stay out of electrical, he does not have a clue what he is doing. But yes that is why your alternator does not work, you can’t mix an “A” circuit with a “B” regulator.
The photo you post, that is complete gibberish, there is no such thing as a “dual field” alternator, at least not in a Chrysler round or square. I am sure they are trying to say dual field tabs, but there is only one field generated in a vintage Chrysler alternator.
If you have 2 male tabs you have an “A” circuit and you can very easily convert it to a “B”, look at the photo you posted first, you have one field near the battery post and one near a ground stud, near the mounting ear. The normal way this works is the field wire, from the regulator goes to the tab near the battery post on the alternator and you need to make a jumper wire for the ground, it goes other field tab near the ground post to the stud or any good ground source, closer to the alternator the better. In fact if you look closely you will see that one is designed to always have an insulator from the frame and the other one can be a ground or insulated, if that helps.
Now someone could have messed the alternator up, so you need to test the field. You probably don’t have a gauss meter, but you may have a local “ghost hunter” (aka, shyster hack that Houdini would have a hay-day debunking) with an EMF meter. If you can get access to an EMF tester, hold it at the back of the alternator and measure the magnetic field when you apply power and ground as I have described. Do this with the engine off and key one, once the field is generated there will be a magnetic pull. Final way to test it is to wing it, wire it up as I have described and start the engine, if you hear a strange motor type sound and there is a major load on the engine, shut it off and reverse the wires, then try again. Chances are it is correct from the factory, but you never know.
If you want to pay shipping both ways we will internally convert it and bench test the alternator at no charge. Or you can look up a local rebuilder in your area and ask them to test field polarity and convert it, if they sound confused at “field polarity” call someone else.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Thanks for all your help on this, I really appreciate it, I'm learning a lot.
Just for kicks, I'm gonna post some pics of how it was connected and how it's going back in with the square back and old points style volt reg, please let me know if this is correct, pictures help me the best.
Please take a look at them and feel free to illustrate over them and repost,
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Darren,
heres a diagram of my setup, what do you think? please show me corrections on this.
thanks
by the way all the alts i've had have gone in this way, the 74 chry alt squareback is the one I'd like to install today if its shown conneted here correctly.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | yup, that is correct, assuming your alternator is correct, you will know when you start it, should have about 14 volts. you need a larger battery cable (alternator battery post to relay post) if you are going to run 90 amps and you should have an inline fuse but you have the wiring correct. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | awesome thanks, and only running 60 amp alt |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | one more thing I can use either of the male tabs for field and ground right? or try them both? see which works |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | ok so final config will be 74 chry alt dual tabs with 69 mechanical ponits volt reg.
wish me luck!
I'll post results soon |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
 
Location: Perth Australia | I missed something, why back to the mechanical reg?
The electronic ones are better ?
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Darren, so from my diagram below can i use the "B" circuit electronic voltreg I bought, or do I need to use the mechanical points type?
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | Well i would test the old one, if it works put it in your road trip tool box and use the new one. they are both B so they will both work. thing is I don't know the specs on the electronic, I don't know how many field amps it can handle, so if you are going to run the 90 amp alternator I would run the mechanical one or get newer A circuit, or better yet aftermarket, like a Transpo V1200, or Ford external. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Darren, have you had much trouble with the transpo regs?
Years ago (when it was still viableto reco alternators) we used transpo for a while and had a lot of comebacks with the regs failed (these were internally regged alternators) and stopped using them.
I have not rebuilt an alternator in over 10 years as buying a replacement (mostly china ones) was cheaper than the parts used to recondition the orriginal one and (as you know) most customers will winge if they think your charging to much for a reco, when they can get a new one cheaper.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Success finally! The new 74 Chry square back alt with new mechanical volt reg is working good so far, getting 13.5-14.5 volts , gonna take her out for a drive later this week and see how she performs especially once the fan kicks on, hopefully alt keeps up.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | @ Michael, years ago when they moved build operations to Indonesia, if I remember correctly, quality tanked, many problems. But quality has come back and we rarely have a failure. I loved the old days when you could call tech department, when they were here in the states and tell them what you needed and they could prototype it. There are a few small companies here in the states that do that but custom innovation at Transpo is dead. But then we are for the most part dealing with the high amp stuff. I have seen a lot of junk out of China but WAI stuff from there is not that bad, the windings and electronics are quite good, hardware like the screws are complete junk, they are one use only.
@ Michael, enjoy the voltage, if you are dropping lower than 13.5 with the fan on you need to look at the size of wire to the fan or you may need a larger crank pulley.
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Southern California | well thought I'd share some more great news, took her out for a drive and started the car with 14.5 volts and holding, then drove for a bit until the electric fan came on, and it only dropped down to 13.5-13.1 and held there while moving down the road, so the fan draw is not to bad. then at a complete stop at a traffic light with fan on volts go to 12.5 ish and hold until light turns green and then the volts go up again to about 13.5 volts and holds there with fan on while driving. once fan goes off volts move back up to almost 14 volts. sounds like everything is working to me, the only iffy part is at complete stop its 12.5 volts probably the fan draw, otherwise goes back up upon acceleration.
thoughts? everything look good for now? or any further recommendations?
thanks.
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Southern California | also the resistors on the volt reg were glowing red for a bit in the begining while charging at first start up but then went away and were not glowing, this normal? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | A) Your wires are too small to the radiator fan, that is driving up the amp load.
B) Your crank pulley is too small and you are not generating enough amps at idle.
I suspect A, but what alternator are you using, amps? What size fan? What size are the wires to the fan and how long are they?
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | using a 1974 chrysler alternator 60 amps with 69 mechanical voltage reg with a 15' electric fan.
the thicker wire from relay to fan black box is 28 gauge wire with inline fuse.
and the skinnier single black and red wires wrapped in black plastic direct to the fan where it connects are each 22 guage thick |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | I think you want to re look at the fan wires, a 28 gauge wire would go up in smoke, it should be 14/16, that is the junk that comes with the fans, I would run 10-12 gauge and see if that helps. The mechanical regulator is probably old and has seen its days. I would switch to the electronic and save that as an emergency spare.
Think of it like this on the fan. What you are doing is like hooking a garden hose to a fire truck. You need a wire that is large enough to handle the amp load that the fan needs.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | I was way off on my wire guage mesurment, I dont have a wire guage measure tool but maybe u can covert for me, the wire from relay to fan black box is about 10mm thick or about 1/4' drill bit thickness and the 2 wires red and black wrapped in blacl plastic direct to the fan are about 1/8 drill bit thick each or 4 mm thick, these guages ok?
based on this info what wire guage size are these? |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | heres pic
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | That’s better, that is the size you should run. So next measure the crank pulley, I will bet it is about 6” in diameter, you really need to run a 7 to 7.5 to get the alternator rotor speed up at idle and you may need more amps out of the alternator. You can’t go any smaller on the alternator pulley. The problem is if you go larger on the crank you may hit the water pump pulley. Other option is to convert to multi rib pulley for the alternator, that way you can run a 1.5” alternator pulley but no on that Chrysler alternator, you will need to run Denso or GM. The key is when you rev the engine, you just need to get the alternator shaft spinning faster at idle, or just live with it, shift into N if it drops below 12.8 and rev the engine, or put a kill switch on the fan. No easy answer here. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | The crank pulley is 6.5 in diameter and alternator pulley is 2.5 in diameter |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | I understand I'll need to improve things later but I think I can live with it for awhile like this. I mean it's not gonna hurt anything on the car right? I don't mind keeping the rpms up at traffic lights, I mean technically it's all working right? I just wanna drive her. When I'm moving she stays 13.5 volts with fan on and charges up as long as I rev slightly at traffic lights with foot on brake. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | The only problem is you are always a step behind. If you charge it over night and go for a drive you will start out a 14+ and that is what you want. The lower the voltage drops the higher the amps go up and that is more stress on the system, you want balance, when you have it you are at the voltage set point. So at idle you are running off battery, you have a hard time getting back to 14 volts because the alternator is running the vehicle and trying to replenish the battery from the stop light, should not matter on long drives. Around town you will shorten the life of the alternator and battery, but if it is a weekend driver it may not be that big of a deal. Just unhook your battery when it is going to sit for more than 3 or 4 days, or keep a trickle charger on it.
There are two other options, you can use a GM CS alternator, you can run a 2” pulley and that should get you very close, it would be cheaper than having a 2” pulley cut for the Chrysler, I don’t know of anyone who makes a 2” Chrysler pulley, next option is probably the easiest, is belt driven clutch fan.
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Southern California | thanks Darren, good info. its a weekend car so no prob for now but gonna do the pulleys or clutch fan, will figure something out, but youve definetly helped me to understand all this  |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1150
Location: Southern California | Darren, what do u think of these one wire alts from summit, this looks like something I would love to have! Looks stock but one wire with built in reg like Delco
Style
Please see link
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8509rdsp |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | I don’t think much it. First off, chrome is for trailer queens and does not belong on an alternator. Chrome does not allow heat to escape and heat is the number one reason why alternators fail. When it over heats the gap between the rotor and stator expands and you get less power output. If you want it to shine polish the case, but you will spend a lot of time cleaning it.
Next one wire alternators are not as efficient as standard hook up, and in this situation it will make things worse. They are not as good at sensing load and they tend to be a bit unstable. What they are not showing you in the photo is box on the side, it’s about an inch wide, 2 inch long, and about ½ think, it’s how you make them one wire, at least the most effective way. I know I am going to get the “I have had a one wire for years and I love it”. I am not saying they don’t work, I am saying it is not the best way to go. I have run parade vehicles with them but never on a driver. One wire alternators were designed as a simple and easy way for farmers to replace obsolete charging systems on tractors and as a cheap and easy way to bypass a wiring problem.
Finally that is a lot of money, for around $100 less you could send us your alternator, we can polish it, install new bearings and brushes and install the one wire module, including shipping back to you, even less if don’t want the one wire module.
To be honest you are better off with what you have. Thing is I think if you drop to a 2” pulley I may just solve your problem. I think I may post a listing to see if there is enough interest in running a batch of 2” pulleys.
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Southern California | I see, well think I'm gonna stay with what I have, she ran great yesterday held 14 but mostly 13.5 volts all the way down the freeway, drove 60 miles and held 13.5 volts  only thing is at idle with fan she drops to 12.5-8ish but then goes back upo 13 plus once we're moving again. I can live with this for now, my alt pulley measures 2.5' in diameter, so I may be interested in your 2' inch alt pulley on another 74 Chry square back alt as long as it has the 2 male tabs in the back.
If I go to a 2' pulley will I overcharge maybe at high speeds? I know for surface streets light to light will be perfect but high speeds? Yesterday I found that as long as I went no more than 70 mph she held 14 volts but would climb higher not much past 14.5 but higher prolly 14.8 if I went faster than 70
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Expert
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Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | All sounds well, Mike. With a halfway decent sized battery, (which you have), the time you spend with the motor idling and the fan on
won't cause a problem. (How do I know)?
Well I did a 2 hour parade in Huntington Beach July 4th.
I do have one of those "Trailer Queen" Chrome Alternators, alto not single wire, and after 2 hours of stopping, just idling and "hotter than Heck"
in that parade, I had "tons of battery left", and I needed it, as the car vapor locked~~~~~cars with exaust headers are not "good parade cars".
At first, I thought the battery did go dead, as the starter would barely turn, but it turns out it got heat soaked from the headers too! grrrrrrrrr.
Water temp was fine though, the big electric fan kept the radiator cool.
Anyway, I let the car sit for 30 mins, and then she cranked vigorously alto would not start.
Checked for gas squirt in carb when I pushed accelerator linkage~~~~None
Poured water on the fuel pump, and she cranked up.
So alto I do have a "Chrome Trailer Queen alternator", anybody that knows me, knows my car IS NOT
a trailer queen and if you see the car on a trailer, IT"S BEEN STOLEN!!!!!
by the way, that chrome alternator has lasted more than 3 years now, maybe more, It was installed
when Jon put the 440 engine in the car.
Gary |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | rushpowersystems - 2014-07-19 9:24 AM . I know I am going to get the “I have had a one wire for years and I love it”. I am not saying they don’t work, I am saying it is not the best way to go. I have run parade vehicles with them but never on a driver. Never fails! I grew up with a guy that is now a very good knee surgeon, when I had him look at my knee a few years ago, I told him how wrong he was because the guy down the street had a problem and just took vitamins. Mike, the voltage set point is 14.5, for the system to run at maximum efficiency you want at the set point. The reason your voltage is dropping down at idle is because you are not spinning the alternator fast enough at idle and the field is collapsing, so you are running off battery which is not the best way to do it. If you lower the load at idle it will help but the best way to deal with it is spin it faster. Once the field is generated the regulator controls it so it will not over charge. The only risk is over spinning the alternator. We run into that problem on race cars that turn 9-12K RPM it will not mater on your vehicle. So as long as we are tossing around anecdotal evidence, because that is a much better than my 30 years in the automotive electrical business. I run my nearly daily driver Jeep, with 2500 watts in the stereo, and a winch that I use a lot, rock crawling in very hot places like Moab. I have 8 years on my alternator and 5 years on my battery. I know that does not compare to “I was in two parades near the beach with a nice breeze off the ocean” but there you go. Shaking head. |
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Expert
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Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | First, note I said it is not a 1 wire alternator.
2nd, I've been working on cars since I was about 15, rebuilt generators, voltage regulators, changed diodes in alternators.
as you mentioned, it is very hard to obtain a 2" pulley for the alternator, and it just isn't necessary.
For "Normal driving" or high rev stuff, the smaller pulley will, at the very least wear out the alternator bearings faster, most likely belts too.
12.5 volts at idle with a load of 20-30 amps or so, (mikes fan, maybe his stereo) is not bad performance at all.
Mike would do better to install a regular fan and shroud, maybe a better radiator, and keep the electric fan as backup and
really hot days.
Myself, I do not like electric fans running all the time, I only want them to come on for really hot days, and then
only on long nuff to drop the water temp, and then shut off.
I originally had a system like Mike's, had 2 fans, freaking things ran all the time, even in winter.
I ditched the too small aluminum radiator, put in my 3 core copper radiator, added a shroud, and
now it works as I described above,~~only comes on for really hot days, runs a min or 2 and shuts off.
However when I did have that junk cooling system with 2 fans, running all the time, I had no
electrical problems, No dead batteries, regulator or alternator problems.
Gary |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | Point was someone is always chiming in with “my car has, does, blah, blah, blah. From reading you post I can tell you that you don’t know what you think you do, what you said sounds good but for someone who does not know what he is doing I can tell you it is BS, but you know that. So mister electrical expert, why did no not help him with his charging problem, why was it that I had to. If you bother to read the posts I am the one who suggested he switch to a manual fan. Please, “wear out the bearings faster” what a joke.
There are a few of us that hang out in D-boards to help people out and it never fails, there is always some self appointed expert who knows everything but never steps up to give correct info, to solve a problem. But then it is good for laughs around the shop.
Mike, believe me if you want or don’t, but here are the facts. Going from 2.5” to 2” pulley will not have an adverse effect on your system at all, the only thing it will do is make your system work correctly. Go measure the crank pulley on a 70’s Mopar, you will find that it is larger in diameter than your crank pulley, larger drive pulley makes the same size alternator pulley spin faster. The reason for that is Mopar engineers knew the alternator needed to spin faster to generate a field at an idle, I know our parade friend will say they are fools and risking bearing damage. But they went and did it anyway.
12.5 volts at an idle is BAD! Our alternator expert has shown he does not know what he is talking about. When the field collapse there is NO amp output, not 20, not 30, not or so, nothing. You are running off battery, that is why the fan slows down and lights dim. When you hit the gas the field generates again, only this time the alternator is forced to charge a discharged battery, that is why it does not go back to 14+ like it does when you are driving at a constant speed. Al alternator is not a battery charger, it maintains system voltage, you are stressing the system doing that because the alternator goes for 0 amps to full field to charge a battery and feed the electrical load, that is hard on everything.
Here is why your set up is bad, the amp load goes up when the voltage drops, so you fan that is designed to run at say 10 amp at 14 volts now runs at say 15 amps, same with the coil, headlights, heat, ac, anything electrical. Higher amps generates more heat. Everything including the wires runs hotter and that shortens the life. How much you drive it and how you drive it has a direct effect on the severity of the damage. I am just telling you the risks, what you do with it is up to you.
Now lest hear from the peanut gallery.
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Expert
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Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | I'm done, no point with arguing with somebody that doesn't even know "The Basics", I (current) = E (voltage) divided by R (resistance). I = E /R, .
Voltage goes down so does current!
Taught nuff Electronics, so I gonna stay retired! (IE I'm done with this conversation). I gotta go out and tow all those cars that had Generators that ran off the batteries, Home!!!!!!
Gary |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | A factor thats not mentioned is mechanical load on an electric motor
As the voltage drops (to a point), current will go up as a motor tries to continue doing what its supposed to
An example is to see how much current and what the voltage does to a stalled electric motor (voltage goes down as current rises)
A better one would be to run a starter motor on the floor and see what your voltage/current readings are, then test the same motor trying to turn your car over.
The ohms law example is totally correct for a resistive circuit (eg light bulb), but falls over when it comes to a motor.
Ohms law can be used to determine the nominated current draw for a motor but, I personally, add 50% margine to the wire size and fuse rating to cover low voltage or high mechanical load situations, this is except for a starter as normal working load really should be applied to the motor and current measured then as it is very unlikely (unless its broken) that it will be working in an unloaded situation.
A resistance measurement of a starter is pretty close to a short circuit anyway
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | This from the guy that thinks you have an alternator generating 20-30 amp at 12.5 volts. If you taught electronics then it explains why so few people understand it. But I am happy to hear you are done, misleading and misinforming people, educated person would say finished, but whatever.
Just so there is not confusion, generators do not generate a field, therefore they are designed to run off a battery, and that is stupid, say how many cars were sold last year with a generator? That would be none! Alternators are not designed to run off batty power they are designed to run at the set point. This is the same defective mental thinking that results in “test your alternator by unhooking the battery cable with it running” great way to kill a regulator.
If you were still making a fool out of yourself I would ask this, why is it that when we all drive our modern daily driver, and we look at the volt meter, if equipped, at an idle, why is it that it is not at 12.5 volts. And if it is at 12.5 volts, why do we fix it.
Quoting ohms law in not an argument, anyone can Google, now use it. For example let’s say we have a fan at 14.5 volts and its amp load is 10 amps that is 145 watts. If we take the same 145 watts at 12.5 volts that is 11.6 amps, hey that went up. To make it easy you can see it for yourself on our calculator on our web site http://rushps.com/tools.html Don’t trust our calculator? Google volt amp calculator.
But then I have thousands of people contact me in a month for my expert opinion on charging systems, I will direct them to you.
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Expert
Posts: 2244
Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | "the amp load goes up when the voltage drops, so you fan that is designed to run at say 10 amp at 14 volts now runs at say 15 amps, same with the coil, headlights, heat, ac, anything electrical" from Darren.
(Just so you guys don't hafta read the "fine print")!
Also I don't appreciate being misquoted. I did not say the alternator was putting out 20-30 amps at idle,
I said "Load" that means the draw on the electrical system, which "could be" be mainly the battery depending on engine idle speed.
Gary
Edited by 1959Dodge 2014-07-20 8:30 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | ttotired - 2014-07-20 5:54 PM A factor thats not mentioned is mechanical load on an electric motor As the voltage drops (to a point), current will go up as a motor tries to continue doing what its supposed to An example is to see how much current and what the voltage does to a stalled electric motor (voltage goes down as current rises) A better one would be to run a starter motor on the floor and see what your voltage/current readings are, then test the same motor trying to turn your car over. The ohms law example is totally correct for a resistive circuit (eg light bulb), but falls over when it comes to a motor. Ohms law can be used to determine the nominated current draw for a motor but, I personally, add 50% margine to the wire size and fuse rating to cover low voltage or high mechanical load situations, this is except for a starter as normal working load really should be applied to the motor and current measured then as it is very unlikely (unless its broken) that it will be working in an unloaded situation. A resistance measurement of a starter is pretty close to a short circuit anyway OK now it makes sense, I must be a displaced Aussie, everyone know you guys are backwards from us, so it must be that in the US amps go down when volts go down. Fix that check your guns at the door stuff and I am moving. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | 1959Dodge - 2014-07-20 6:25 PM "the amp load goes up when the voltage drops, so you fan that is designed to run at say 10 amp at 14 volts now runs at say 15 amps, same with the coil, headlights, heat, ac, anything electrical" from Darren. (Just so you guys don't hafta read the "fine print")! Also I don't appreciate being misquoted. I did not say the alternator was putting out 20-30 amps at idle, I said "Load" that means the draw on the electrical system, which "could be" be mainly the battery depending on engine idle speed. Gary Though you were done. So amp fairy comes and gives the battery the 20-30 amps lost at idle then? You know the time in which the alternator is not supplying the power the electrical system needs. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Not sure if your having a go or not Darren?
If you check your guns at the door, your most welcome to come over and say g,day
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | No I want to bring them, that is my only hang up, I like my government to fear the fact that I have them.
So what are you guys going to do now, since there will not be anymore Ford, are Chevy and Mopar guys going to fight at races?
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Na, I expect we will now end up with the european and japanese cars and possibly the US larger cars.
We already get that to some extent, really goes for all the makes as our car (manufacturing) industry dies
My work vehicle is a Falcon ute with a big box on the back, thats pretty close to its time for replacement and I am a bit pieved about it because I wanted to keep the box and transfer it to a new falcon, this isnt going to happen now, so I am going to have to hang on to the car a bit longer while I work out if I can put it on a nissan patrol or landcruiser cab/chassis
Just another fly in the ointment, keeps running a business interesting
Oh, by the way, the F trucks are to big, thats why I havnt concidered one of them
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Expert
Posts: 1740
Location: Alaska | You know Darren, everyone on this site appreciates knowledgeable advise but we don't appreciate the arrogance that seems to go with yours. It would be good if you would tone yours down. |
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Electronic volt reg compatibility with alt?
