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Location: Kansas City, KS | Anyone here using an aftermarket aluminum radiator in their Forwardlook car?
I'm looking for a radiator for one of my Imperials. I really don't want the trouble or expense of tracking down an original and having it re-cored. This will be a driver and not OEM restored.
Any suggestions or links would be appreciated. |
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Location: Minor Hill, TN | I would highly recommend copper not aluminum . Copper will last longer |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i have one on red but not filled or used yet . the one i used had to be fitted using aluminum angle . why because there was no exact fit , though you may be lucky enough to find one to fit an
imperial . it is also a 3 core supposed to cool up to 650 hp , meaning at high rpm it'll still cool properly . cost was like 215$ delivered . for what i needed , it should work good --------------------------later |
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Location: Kansas City, KS | Thanks, Chuck! That's the exact type of info I'm looking for. I expect a little fab work and realize nothing will be a perfect fit but the price is right in budget. Where did you get yours? Do you have a brand name or part number? Random browsing is overwhelming. |
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Location: N.W. Fla. | I bought a generic Ford cross flow style from Summit for my '60 Plym. |
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Location: Kansas City, KS | I did some more searching and found a T-Bird radiator with very close specs. I'll post some pics when it arrives and I get it installed. |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | mine was from the left coast , ebay , made by champion . you might also have to settle for flex hoses top and bottom . the top hose on mine aint exactly as i'd like it but beggars
can't be choosey -----------------------------------------------later
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Location: Minor Hill, TN | I would not use aluminium copper lasts longer. if you have the original 1 have it rerodded, I did with my '61 |
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Location: Kansas City, KS | 1961plymouthfury - 2014-07-16 9:32 PM
I would not use aluminium copper lasts longer. if you have the original 1 have it rerodded, I did with my '61
Rodding out a radiator doesn't help if a copper radiator is corroded or leaking.
I had the original radiator for this car completely re-cored about 9 years ago for the bargain price of $400.
In the meantime, some nice copper thieves walked it up to the recycler and got at least $7 for it.
My cars are not concours restorations so I'm very happy with aluminum radiators that are more efficient, higher capacity, readily available and at a fraction of the cost.
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Location: Kansas City, KS | Here's a pic of of my new aluminum radiator mocked up. Since this pic was taken, I've got it completely mounted and even found molded hoses that fit.
 (2014-06-24 19.45.42.jpg)
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 2014-06-24 19.45.42.jpg (94KB - 175 downloads)
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Location: North Australia | Good work Don, Keepin' the dream alive!
Steve |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | My cars are not concours restorations so I'm very happy with aluminum radiators that are more efficient, higher capacity, readily available and at a fraction of the cost.
that sums it up quite nicely --------------------------------------------later |
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Location: West Jordan | You talking aluminum vs. brass or vs. copper? Because if you look up thermal properties of copper it is much more efficient than aluminum, we must run pure copper in our 300 amp rectifiers because aluminum ones can’t handle the heat. I think the number is almost double, like 1.3 vs. 2.4, off the top of my head. |
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Location: NorCal |
You can't just look at the material the radiator is made from, look at the design of the tubes. The fewer/wider tubes in most aluminum radiators offer more surface area for heat transfer. |
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Location: Kansas City, KS | rushpowersystems - 2014-07-19 12:45 PM
You talking aluminum vs. brass or vs. copper? Because if you look up thermal properties of copper it is much more efficient than aluminum, we must run pure copper in our 300 amp rectifiers because aluminum ones can’t handle the heat. I think the number is almost double, like 1.3 vs. 2.4, off the top of my head.
Of course copper, brass and aluminum will have different scientific thermodynamics for heat absorption and dissipation. This would be more relevant if the control was capacity, design, and shape with the only variable being composition such as in your field of alternator parts. Aftermarket aluminum radiator compared to brass or copper OEM radiator is apple and oranges. |
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Location: Kansas City, KS | Chuck, here's my molded hoses, even with different size ends.
also got my new PB booster and master cylinder mounted but that's another story.
 (2014-07-19 17.14.20.jpg)
 (2014-07-19 17.14.47.jpg)
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2014-07-19 17.14.20.jpg (102KB - 189 downloads)
2014-07-19 17.14.47.jpg (78KB - 194 downloads)
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: West Jordan | I could not get my high compression 258 CJ to run cool at all with an aluminum radiator and I completely solved my problem with a custom built copper radiator. Same shape, same capacity, same flow rating, copper dissipates better. |
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Location: Alaska | Not to start an argument but: where did the idea come from that aluminum radiators don't last long? most of the newer cars and trucks run aluminum rads. What I don't like is the crimped on top and bottom plastic tanks, I have seen many of them leak. |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | KC , how much clearance you got from blades to rad . .--------------------------------------------later |
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Location: Kansas City, KS | Chuck, right now I'm at 1-1/4in clearance from the blades to radiator.
In the near future I will either change fans, spacers, or add a shroud but first I need to make sure motor mounts are good.
My other Imperials have the following clearance:
factory AC, clutch fan, shroud = 1in
non-AC, standard fan, no shroud = 3/4in
 (1958AlumClearance.jpg)
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1958AlumClearance.jpg (67KB - 169 downloads)
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Location: Alaska | KC, "1 1/4 should be good. Try it first without a shroud. If you were over "2 away I would recommend a shroud. |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I have 1" clearance between the fan clutch cooling fins and the radiator. The clearance between the fan blade tips and the radiator is 1 1/2". Never any issues. I would say that 1 1/4" should do if your motor mounts are in good condition. |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | thanks KC . mine i'm guessing is close + or- 1 1/2 but since i had to remove the left half of the front end again for the soft plug deal , i'm thinkin on adding a 1" aluminum spacer once i get a solid
measurement . where's its at i don't think will be a problem but we'll see .
in all honesty i can see someone wanting to keep am oem radiator but to what length for a driver . i can buy 3 aluminum radiators for what it costs here to have "1" totally upgraded . to me and for my need
it don't make economical sense -------------------------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | I put a 70s valiant (new) in my dodge, used the molded hoses for the same year car, just had to cut the engine end a bit to make it fit (hose that is)
The valiand one is a bit wider than the original one, so I had to make the mount for the battery tray narrower (move the battery closer to the inner gaurd) by 1/2"
I was quoted $800 to re core the one out of it
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Location: Kansas City, KS | 60 dart - 2014-07-21 3:13 PM
...... in all honesty i can see someone wanting to keep am oem radiator but to what length for a driver . i can buy 3 aluminum radiators for what it costs here to have "1" totally upgraded . to me and for my need
it don't make economical sense -------------------------------------------------later
I agree completely! I have 5 of these Imperials, 3 still have their oem radiators and that's enough expense and hassle for me. I just want at least one that's easy and fun to get parts for. I wish there were alternatives like this for $$ suspension and steering parts that I need next. |
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Location: Kansas City, KS | Thanks to everyone for all the comments. I was worried this thread would turn into a bigger oem vs custom debate. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 424
Location: Harrison, NY | Do yourself a favor and call Tony Smith of Smith's Radiator in Indiana. He did my 58 Allum radiator exactly like the original in black and removable Allum fan shroud. It bolted up like the original radiator on the support. I will look up the phone number for you.
Thanks
Edited by Christine'sRevenge 2014-07-25 10:39 PM
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| Nice workmanship on the Christine rad. BTW I think you meant to say Plymouth, not Packard as to your rides, Christinesrevenge!
I'm absolutely amazed that those of you in warmer climates than what we have in Alberta aren't running electric fans, as a necessity...I've found mechanical fans to be the opposite of what you need-when your sitting idling with no other airflow, they turn slow, (fast fan action needed) when you are rolling down the highway with lots of natural airflow, they turn fast(not needed) ..all my V8 cars would overheat if not for electric fans, what gives? Do shrouds make that much difference? |
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Location: Arizona | In most cases shrouds make a difference. The way I look at it is that the automakers would not spend $1.75 on a shroud for millions of cars if they didn't think the shroud was needed. I think it's main value is at low speeds when you are dependent on the fan for cooling. It makes the fan something like 30% better at pulling air thru. |
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Posts: 2633
Location: Minor Hill, TN | I have never used an aluminum radiator in my '61. I had my original flushed out and re rodded . |
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aluminum radiator
