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RB cooling water pump re-build.
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60 Imp
Posted 2014-05-23 7:30 AM (#442006)
Subject: RB cooling water pump re-build.


2000100050025
Location: North Australia
Anyone have experience rebuilding the original RB water pumps? This is the one with the black plastic impeller.

Looks like 2 little lugs on the impeller shoulder which fits onto the shaft. The removal of the impeller looks to be the hard part of the job.

Only want to do this as an exercise and have a road spare in the boot.

Thanks in advance for the help. Sid?

Steve.

Edited by 60 Imp 2014-05-23 7:31 AM
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57chizler
Posted 2014-05-23 2:48 PM (#442052 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: RE: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert

Posts: 3768
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Location: NorCal

IIRC, the plastic impeller can't be reused...it's broken upon disassembly.
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1960fury
Posted 2014-05-23 5:09 PM (#442063 - in reply to #442052)
Subject: RE: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert 5K+

Posts: 7385
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Location: northern germany
that is correct. if you want to reuse the oe plastic impeller in a new pump you need to drill out the shaft carefully.
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VAN HELSING
Posted 2014-05-23 5:36 PM (#442064 - in reply to #442063)
Subject: RE: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Elite Veteran

Posts: 982
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Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia
........

Apart from rebuilding the pump you already have, is this the pump you need for a spare Steve ??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Water-Pump-Chrysler-383-400-413-426-440...


.........

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57chizler
Posted 2014-05-24 4:35 PM (#442149 - in reply to #442064)
Subject: RE: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert

Posts: 3768
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Location: NorCal

The problem with a lot of the replacement BB pumps nowadays is they supply the 6-vane impeller for use on both A/C and non-A/C applications....original non-A/C had the 8-vane impeller.
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jimntempe
Posted 2014-05-26 1:42 AM (#442281 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert

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What would be wrong with using the A/c Version?
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60 Imp
Posted 2014-05-26 8:46 AM (#442293 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: RE: RB cooling water pump re-build.


2000100050025
Location: North Australia
The unit out of my car has 10 vanes. Anyhow, looks like I wont rebuild this one. Never seen a replacement impeller so too hard considering the replacement for a new unit. Thanks Van, Sid e.t.c.
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57chizler
Posted 2014-05-26 1:44 PM (#442312 - in reply to #442281)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert

Posts: 3768
200010005001001002525
Location: NorCal
jimntempe - 2014-05-25 10:42 PM

What would be wrong with using the A/c Version?


The 6-vane pump is driven 140% of crankshaft speed (40% overdrive) in order to turn the fan faster, when driven with non-A/C pulleys (95 % of crankshaft speed) it moves less coolant than the 8-vane pump.
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Rodger
Posted 2014-05-27 11:33 AM (#442461 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.


Expert

Posts: 1506
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Hola Yo'll

Isn't the driven speed a factor of which Diameter of Pulley is used vs what or how the engine is equipped.

Also because of a different Impeller Diameter the amount of needed energy used for it is the same one for Performance - Industrial - Towing and even A/C Units .
The Original MoPar Performance Books that have Factory Engineering Department Studies on this have this 3.67 inch x6 Water Pump mentioned.



Rodger & Gabby
Colo Spgs
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55coronet440
Posted 2014-07-27 12:14 AM (#450568 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Veteran

Posts: 272
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Location: Missouri
Has anyone used an aftermarket pump (similar to a Be-Cool) that has a modified impeller implementing a thin disc attached to the back, in effect making it work like a water wheel? I have one on my 440 as I figured it would work a little better than an A/C pump, although after reading a post above wonder if I should use an A/C pulley with it. I was having a heat issue in parades and bottled traffic even though the rad was redone with a 4-row core and I have a fan shroud. Also use a 7-blade stock steel fan and a 160-degree high-flow stat.

Edited by 55coronet440 2014-07-27 12:22 AM
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57chizler
Posted 2014-07-27 12:59 PM (#450611 - in reply to #450568)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert

Posts: 3768
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Location: NorCal

The hard part about troubleshooting a low-speed heating problem is knowing whether the problem is coolant flow or air flow related. What is your current pump/pulley configuration?
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Mopar1
Posted 2014-07-28 9:37 AM (#450726 - in reply to #450568)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



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55coronet440 - 2014-07-26 11:14 PM

Also use a 160-degree high-flow stat.
I believe you're supposed to be using a 180-195 thermostat. Also saw that cyl wall wear is 3 X higher with a 160 vs one in the 180 to 195 range, though when I've brought up wear before no one seems too concerned.
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57chizler
Posted 2014-07-28 2:20 PM (#450752 - in reply to #450726)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert

Posts: 3768
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Location: NorCal

The thermostat setting is irrelevant if the system temperature exceeds it...IOW is the system goes to 230°F with a 160° thermostat installed the thermostat isn't the problem.

I always run 160° thermostats and I've never had an engine that would hold that temperature...others might.
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55coronet440
Posted 2014-07-28 8:42 PM (#450815 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Veteran

Posts: 272
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Location: Missouri
Yes, just to experiment once, I tried a 180 and it did not make a difference. Using single groove pulleys as there is no A/C or power steering; the crank pulley is a little over 6 3/4" and the pump pulley is 6 1/2", with a 1/4" gap between them. Still have the above mentioned aftermarket pump with the disk attached to the impeller but do not know the # of vanes without taking the pump off. It's been in use a long time; but I have to admit that my '55 has not been licensed since Sept. '05 and the 440 last ran in '06. I know, I know, it's hard to believe myself; I'm trying to get it going again, it started with a leaking front wheel cylinder that got me to do the AAJ brake swap, and I suppose I went through most of this time with a lack of interest in getting all these problems fixed. I'm very determined to drive it again, as I'm 64 1/2 and the clock keeps ticking! I don't know what size the A/C pulley is, but maybe it could help. Should also add that I have a pusher fan that I only use in slow traffic & parades; never had a problem on the highways. I just run it when needed off of the 2-speed heater blower switch except in winter.
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60 Imp
Posted 2014-07-29 8:00 AM (#450872 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: RE: RB cooling water pump re-build.


2000100050025
Location: North Australia
Harold, time you got keen again and got that old rig running.

steve.
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55coronet440
Posted 2014-07-29 10:03 AM (#450889 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Veteran

Posts: 272
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Location: Missouri
Steve, I totally agree with that! I'll have to spend less time fixing mowers and get the '55 road ready!
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Windsor59
Posted 2014-08-13 3:27 PM (#452784 - in reply to #450889)
Subject: Re: RB cooling water pump re-build.



Expert

Posts: 2596
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Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden
I bought this water pump on Ebay a few years ago, nice to have.
Rebuilt by CPR standing it on a sticky note and has 10 wings is this to my 383 RB in 1959?
NR 1853250 2R

Edited by Windsor59 2014-08-13 3:29 PM




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60 Imp
Posted 2014-08-15 7:52 AM (#452986 - in reply to #442006)
Subject: RE: RB cooling water pump re-build.


2000100050025
Location: North Australia
Thanks for the photos. That looks like a cast iron impellor, (the same as a plastic 10 blade job)??

Steve
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