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New brake light switch Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Lisa P |
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Veteran Posts: 260 | I installed a new brake light switch tonight to work with the dual pot master cylinder upgrade. Rather than drill and tap into the M/C to install a factory style switch, I opted for an electromechanical type mounted under the dash. In my spare metal, I found a piece that had an existing hole exactly the right size for the switch, and could be welded directly to the steering column. It is easy to adjust the switch in proximity to the brake lever with this set up and easy to replace the switch. (0703122116comp.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 0703122116comp.jpg (58KB - 454 downloads) | ||
Desotorandy |
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Veteran Posts: 234 Location: Chambersburg,PA | Great idea,good work! | ||
Destr0 |
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Veteran Posts: 175 Location: Hebron, IN | Lisa- What breke light switch did you use? I have decided not to drill and tap my MC and go with a mechanical switch insted so I can run silicone brake fluid. ~K | ||
Destr0 |
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Veteran Posts: 175 Location: Hebron, IN | Just an FYI- I found a 3/16 pressure swith that I can thread right in the distribution block to use that port rather than plug it. Hiding the two wires in the loom already there wasn't that hard either. :-) | ||
Resurrector |
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That's a great improvement Lisa, I have had nothing but trouble with the original style pressure switches...they can leak/allow air into system, just plain not work, and besides that they are a horrible idea to begin with because they only work if the system becomes pressured up...I like knowing if my brakes fail, people behind me will still know I'm trying to stop! Besides all that, they don't ever come on as quick as the modern style...this is one area to say, SCREW originality. Edited by 58dodgeregent 2012-10-16 11:44 PM | |||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3396 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Did the same thing here, but it is a 1/8 pipe thread , not a flare port, but I used a different Weatherhead t fitting | ||
Lisa P |
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Veteran Posts: 260 | Sorry I took so long to get back to you. The brake light switch was an extra that I had for my 1978 Jeep CJ. I hope this helps anyone that may be looking for one. It has been working great and trouble free thus far! | ||
imopar380 |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7207 Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | I mounted a 1962 Chrysler brake pedal arm switch in mine when the new dual pot M/C was installed. Does basically the same thing as Lisa's but the bracket is bolted on to an existing bracket near the pedal arm, but actually butt-stops on the push rod knuckle. Edited by imopar380 2012-10-17 9:29 PM (stop_light_switch_mount.JPG) Attachments ---------------- stop_light_switch_mount.JPG (102KB - 463 downloads) | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Same thing with a peice of scrap "L" bracket. I just went to a parts store and asked for a switch for a 1980 Chevy. Figured I try the most common part I could find. Probably used from the 70s- the 90s on every GM. Just ask for an aftermarket 2 wire brake switch. I think it was only a few $s. My guess is the only differences might be the hole diameters. | ||
Lancer Mike |
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Location: The Mile High City | I am going to install one of these on the De Soto. I am sick of the "never works" hydraulic switch. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9665 Location: So. Cal | Destr0 - 2012-08-02 6:57 AM Just an FYI- I found a 3/16 pressure swith that I can thread right in the distribution block to use that port rather than plug it. Hiding the two wires in the loom already there wasn't that hard either. :-) I am interested in this part. What is the part number and where to buy it? Another problem with the pressure switch version is that when they fail, they often short out. You realize that the switch has gone bad when you can no longer start your car because of the battery drain. | ||
Lancer Mike |
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Location: The Mile High City | Well, mine isn't as snazzy as the others, but it works! I selected a generic looking two-prong brake light switch from O'Reilley's Auto Parts BWD S237 switch/commutateur/interruptor $9, a extra large hose clamp $1.90 from Ace Hardware, some extra rubber gasket material I had available, a 90 degree support from Home Depot I had lying around, a bit of extra wire I had around, and a male and female end wire connector ($6) - to link the original brake light wire to the new wires I ran through the firewall at the steering wheel column. It was all pretty easy to fabricate and install and I am glad to be done with that pressure switch at the bottom of the MC! I took a picture of the switch with the brake pedal depressed to see the white button at the end of the switch. (IMG_7293 reduced.jpg) (IMG_7294 reduced.jpg) (IMG_7296 reduced.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_7293 reduced.jpg (178KB - 397 downloads) IMG_7294 reduced.jpg (148KB - 390 downloads) IMG_7296 reduced.jpg (131KB - 393 downloads) | ||
NC Adventurer |
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Veteran Posts: 148 | Lancer Mike - 2016-05-30 10:53 PM Well, mine isn't as snazzy as the others, but it works! I selected a generic looking two-prong brake light switch from O'Reilley's Auto Parts BWD S237 switch/commutateur/interruptor $9, a extra large hose clamp $1.90 from Ace Hardware, some extra rubber gasket material I had available, a 90 degree support from Home Depot I had lying around, a bit of extra wire I had around, and a male and female end wire connector ($6) - to link the original brake light wire to the new wires I ran through the firewall at the steering wheel column. It was all pretty easy to fabricate and install and I am glad to be done with that pressure switch at the bottom of the MC! I took a picture of the switch with the brake pedal depressed to see the white button at the end of the switch. Lancer Mike, I can't say thank you enough for engineering this simple upgrade! While wiring my car, I had one of the posts pull completely out of hydraulic switch. Having encountered the correct switch being a bit on the rare side and hearing the more knowledgeable members of the crowd discuss the lack of reliability of the hydraulic switches, I decided on upgrading to a mechanical switch. I selected your design because of its simplicity and common sense approach to the issue. Here's what I spent and where in completing this project: Switch - $13.99 at O'Reilly Auto Parts - The new part number for the switch is STD SLS66 18 gauge wire - $7.99 at O'Reilly Auto Parts, Part # CTI 85732 Rubber Gasket - $1.99 at Lowe's, Item # 31446 2.5" corner brace at Lowe's, $4.08, Item # 67407 Roll of electrical tape - .88 at Wal-Mart Side Note: I had checked for power on the pink wire when I thought it was the hydraulic switch not working. After connecting everything with the mechanical switch, I had power to the pink (Wire D3 on the schematic) but still had no brake lights. I reviewed the schematics at some length and began working my way backwards from the connection that was now on the mechanical switch. While inspecting the first six wire connection, I noticed that the white wire's connection had backed out of the connector - just enough to not touch the opposing side. My first thought - "It couldn't be this easy!" - but it definitely was! I used a small standard screwdriver with a 1/8" tip to press each wire's connector on to the opposing side. With my trusty assistant standing behind the car, I pressed onto the brake pedal and PRESTO! brake lights! Sometimes its the simple things that caused the most head scratching. Funny Note: I wanted wrap the wire extensions with electrical tape to disguise to look like like the original wiring. I couldn't find a roll of electrical tape so the hunt began. I tried several places and each time was told, "COVID is causing shortages of a lot of things." How did COVID cause a run on electrical tape and with who? Eventually I relented and ventured into that Jerry Springer Show commonly referred to as Wal-Mart. Evidently those now hoarding electrical tape are also allergic to Wal-Mart. They actually had a few rolls in stock, thankfully. Again, many thanks to Lancer Mike for the engineering on this and for sharing his idea. Edited by NC Adventurer 2020-08-16 5:20 PM | ||
samstrader |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 443 Location: Beaumont TX | I still have the pressure switch for my brake lights but just wanted to mention that another advantage of Lisa's design is that you can use Dot 5 brake fluid in your brake system. I've read that the pressure switches will fail if you use Dot 5. I'm going to switch over because what is shown here is so simple to implement. | ||
NC Adventurer |
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Veteran Posts: 148 | samstrader - 2020-08-20 7:50 PM I still have the pressure switch for my brake lights but just wanted to mention that another advantage of Lisa's design is that you can use Dot 5 brake fluid in your brake system. I've read that the pressure switches will fail if you use Dot 5. I'm going to switch over because what is shown here is so simple to implement. Wouldn't all the mechanical switch designs allow for DOT-5? I'd be more concerned with the seals in the wheel cylinders being compatible. At least with a switch being visible, you could see it fail (dripping). | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i've used a switch like this for @ 10yrs. with no problems with or without dot 5 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Ford-Chrysler-Brake-Line-Tube-Tee-Lig... | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/details/KICBLSW/Adjustable... bought this, hope it works | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Years ago I did the AAJ brake set up and I was do for inspection so I bought a cheap Chevy one. Very basic and simple set up. I forgot until now that I had just hose clamped an "L" bracket to the steering column to get through inspection and it's been there since. It just took a few minutes as I recall and as there is VERY little pressure on the switch, I haven't had any issues and forgot to make it permanent. Ooops. | ||
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