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Ebay member: Old parts Source (Front End kit) Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | Hi I purchased the front end kit from them and I finally got time to go through it, it was big my disappointment when I found that the 2 Upper Ball Joints;2 Lower Ball Joints; 2 Lower Control Arm Bushings; 2 Strut Rod Bushings are not for my car, all parts are oversized! like they are for a newer model i believe for a 70 ply With the car and the parts in Argentina go and figure the great news, again like Mitchell did it before these guys ruined my plans (front.jpg) Attachments ---------------- front.jpg (19KB - 431 downloads) | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Scaring me now, I bought a kit from Canters that looks sort of like that and like you, I havnt gone to fit the parts yet and not planning to for a while yet either. Might have to go look closely at my front end on the weekend and check | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | I thought Kanter and Ebay's Old Parts source are the same place. | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | No answer from them yet, both stores are in NJ but i'm not sure. Check your parts out!, the box weight 12 lbs meaning that a return will be way too expensive. | ||
FURY |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1049 Location: Auckland, New Zealand. | Kanter and Ebay's Old Parts source = Chinese reproduced crap! "Do it once, do it thrice". Then use actual old parts Made In USA! | ||
Chrome58 |
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Expert Posts: 1316 Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | I bought a pair of parking brake shoes from them. On the package, there was a big orange sticker saying : "DANGER - Contains asbestos fibers. Avoid creating dust. May cause cancer and lung diseases". How in the world are they allowed to sell those ? Aren't those illegal now ? | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | yes i think it is illegal, i used to date someone working on EPA she could tell us better, but she is long gone . They are the same company Kanter=Old Parts source | ||
FIN_NV |
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Expert Posts: 4589 Location: Northern New Jersey | And if you can return them, you'll probably only get a store credit instead of a full refund. | ||
FIN_NV |
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Expert Posts: 4589 Location: Northern New Jersey | Denis, Fred Kanters son runs Old Parts on EBay. Why dot you post something on Kanters Facebook Page. | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | darn. Thats a pain. The kit in the photo looks remarkably like the parts I bought and installed in my 60 Imp. Hard to tell without dimensions but look like the parts for sure. I seem to recall a thread on here saying the 57's had different/smaller parts than the later Imp's? Steve. | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | I will found that next week when I can finally restore the front end of my 57 Imperial, ball joints, lower and upper bushings are all different. Parts manuals are useless. | ||
Phil_the_frenchie |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 915 Location: Pau, S-W France | Chrome58 - 2013-03-05 8:16 PM I bought a pair of parking brake shoes from them. On the package, there was a big orange sticker saying : "DANGER - Contains asbestos fibers. Avoid creating dust. May cause cancer and lung diseases". How in the world are they allowed to sell those ? Aren't those illegal now ? :stressed: Me too when i order for a '60 Buick. But in fact i'm happy , drums were made for asbetos lining and not for actual substitute. This was because i bought NOS or NORS linings on ebay. | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | OK, I have fitted most of the front end kit now (havnt done the tie rod ends yet) No real dramas except for the lower ball joints. They seem to have a thinner taper than the original ones, they do eventually lock up on the spindle, but I had to use 2 heavy flat washers under the nut so that the split pin hole would still be in line with the castles on the nut. The other thing was how tight the ball joints were to screw in. I know they are supposed to be stiff, but I had to use a 5 foot pole on the end of my "L" bar to wind them in. The service manual says 150 ft lbs to nip them up, but I am sure these were a lot tighter than that. Hope I dont have to take them out again in a hurry, although I did have to swap one over (put an upper where a lower was supposed to be, pays to look sometimes) | ||
recondo |
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Regular Posts: 92 Location: montevallo, alabama | rare parts got me my front end parts that were not locally available, I thought the prices were a little hi but not outrageous | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | I know they are supposed to be stiff, but I had to use a 5 foot pole on the end of my "L" bar to wind them in. if you heat the hole uniformly till it's just hot to the touch , they'll screw in a ton easier . most reason for a huge cheater bar is not finding the old threads to use back in . sometimes it's almost impossible to find em but if you can they are considerable help . --------------------------------------------------later | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | I'm about to take them out tomorrow, is there any good tool/ idea for the Job?, i saw the one in the manual but of course is not easy to find. Thanks! Edited by hemidenis 2013-04-11 11:42 PM | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | You need the 4 sided socket (its 3/4 drive) They are very tight to turn out as well as in. Mine cost me about $100, not sure how you would get them out without it | ||
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