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my heater switch repair ! Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | thanks to those who helped or offered to help ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, i used a couple of junk switches to make one . a good set of used cards were used . 1/8 plastic tubing i had layin around . i've had the gang connector on and off at least a dozen times . all totaled time was about 2 1/2 hrs. but that was taking time , not being in a hurry , making sure all working parts were clean , which were washed in plain ordinary rubbing alcohol . the brass plated wood screws i also layin around . i think it turned out really great . it'll last till i'm gone !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -------------------------------------------------later (vac. switch repair 004.JPG) (vac. switch repair 002.JPG) (vac. switch repair 003.JPG) (vac. switch repair 005.JPG) (vac. switch repair 006.JPG) Attachments ---------------- vac. switch repair 004.JPG (118KB - 180 downloads) vac. switch repair 002.JPG (116KB - 175 downloads) vac. switch repair 003.JPG (104KB - 184 downloads) vac. switch repair 005.JPG (117KB - 171 downloads) vac. switch repair 006.JPG (117KB - 173 downloads) | ||
B/G 61 |
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Expert Posts: 2612 Location: Parts Unknown | Good stuff brother - | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | thanks buddy . wasn't really to hard to do , just a little time consuming and having a drill press worked real well with this approach . no way would i have tried this free hand . ---------------------------------------------later | ||
Windsor Wendy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 395 Location: Netherlands | Nice one Chuck, we have a spare I repaired in the exact same way, replaced the broken plastic tubes with brass ones, cleaned all the dried out grease and relubed the cams inside and used slightly smaller brass screws with a round head. 2 months after my repair I noticed a guy on Ebay offering this repair service when you send him your core, think it's 80-90$ he wants for a repaired one.....easy money eh? | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | the nice thing about using the plastic tubing is that it gives just a little so the tubing doesn't have to be set perfectly straight . i also made em just a touch longer to be received just a little past the original seat in the rubber gang block . the test one tube i did , i moved around to simulate terrible handling . it would not break off or pull out ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ya , the guy on ebay from canada wants 75$ plus 15$ core charge or the core ------------------------------------------------later | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Aah - this takes me back to the old days in the late seventies - back then, there was no parts to be found (sometimes on a junkyard) - I had to repair my heater switch for my '59 NY, practically the same way. Good thing you show it here for our fellow FL'rs Chuck, thanks for sharing. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | if now i only had electric power to the switch . can't find the wiring diagram to track the wires . i've been all over the 60 dodge service manual --------------------------------------------------------------------later | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Nice job on that switch repair, Chuck. These '59 heater switches were rather problematic, it seems. ---John | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | thanks big john . black wire goes to the single side prong , brown goes above it . the green wire goes to the left of the brown one as the switch sits in facing , with the vacuum hoses on the right . the black one , the power wire has an inline fuse , on mine was blown"20 amp" . now i have only low speed , why ? it'll run on low speed but high speed has to have a dead short somewhere . so for now i have no room in the garage to work pulling the whole heater unit and the glove box . i'll just move the green wire over to where the brown goes and run def. and floor heat combined . once they start throwin salt on the roads it ain't leavin the house anyways --------------------------------------------------------------later | ||
njlimbaugh |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 421 Location: N. Georgia | Chuck, my factory manual for a 60 Plymouth shows the following: Black power wire in to single prong on the switch as you said; brown and green both go to a "T" shaped connector on the heater motor: brown to the upright of the "T" and green to the crossbar. I think the same switch was used on both cars. So, I'm guessing that one of the wires goes through a resistor for low speed, the other directly into the motor windings for high. Maybe this will help a bit. | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | Good work. You have to be a little resourceful when you're doing old classic cars. | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | Check one of the wires to the fan has not chaffed and shorted in the clips under the dash. | ||
cpd1212 |
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Veteran Posts: 144 Location: Chicago, IL | I like the fix. On a side note, a friend used a similar repair for the heater control in an 80s Diplomat with excellent results. | ||
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