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Extreme Veteran
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| I have a power seat assembly in front of me out of a '57 Chrysler that has been sitting idle for many years. Have never put power to it so don't know if it "runs" or not. Would be very keen on hearing any tips on what to look at, clean, lube, pull apart before I try powering it up. A "how it works" and description of parts would be good too.
Any info at all on the power seat unit would help 'cause I know nuthin' 
Thanks
Owen |
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Expert
Posts: 1737
 
Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | HI Owen,
I posted schematics of the power seat electrics and switches a while back... see the posting in this discussion area under "power seat switch".
Also, here is a blow-up diagram, from the 1957 Chrysler master parts catalog. It is from Chrysler Canada, but I think that the power seats were all the same...
Personally, I would disassemble and clean out all the old hardened grease and grime from the parts before I power it up. Might save from putting too much strain on the motor or solinoids. Do you have a shop manual?? It goes through diagnoisis and disassembly/re-assembly of the complete seat assembly. |
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Expert
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Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada |  Stupid computers!!
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | As usually, the workshop manual is a good way to start with - read the chapter through and think before doing - nothing is really difficult with the power seats. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 363
| Thanks Brad,
I've pulled it down and found plently of loose change stuck in the tracks as well as being seized up. The slave units seem to be dry too. No way it would have ever moved.
The workshop manual can be a very handy tool but it's always nice to get other FWDLK's ideas/tips and practical experiences of how to attack a job like this before starting. It can save many hours frustration.
Thanks again
Owen |
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Veteran
Posts: 174
Location: Camptown PA | When disassembling make sure you ID which drive cable goes where - saves a lot of time when assembling. I had to pull mine completely apart to free the tracks. There are 2 steel roller bearings in each track (my assembly is a 1960 I think they are the same design as yours) - don't loose them. When I freed mine up one of the bearings came out, rolled across the shop floor, and hid under a workbench in a pile of bolts. Spent 15 minutes looking for it. When you re-assemble make sure the master and slave are in the same position on the track and adjusting bars are engaged in the same relative position. I just counted the number of bar teeth showing in front of each drive unit. Don't power up the unit until you have the whole assembly reconnected - this keeps everything in the same relative position. If you don't have everything in the same relative position one side will run out of adjustment before the other side does. When I assembled my unit, I put the whole thing on a long table and clamped the tracks down before powering it up. Hope this helps. Good luck
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Owen: been-there-done-that!
What you want to do, FIRST (if you can)...is hook up 12V to the hot lead and ground the power seat (to your car)
so that you hopefully can get that device to operate.
You want to raise UP the seat track as much as possible, in order to field strip it down, and to reassemble it.
It's virtually impossible to get to all the gears and lifting levers without the seat mechanisms being raised up fully.
Did you get it up? Good...
Next thing is you want to get some paint and/or take CAREFUL diagram-measurements documenting the precise location
of the three lifting-levers' connections to the gear teeth, on each side's mechanism.
This can't be over-stressed, because you are, eventually, going to have to re-position those levers precisely as you find them,
or else the two seat mechanisms will not work together to move the seat up/down/back/forth uniformly.
So, counting-the-lever-teeth, and writing/recording/photographing, and placing a marking-paint daub on the levers' teeths' connection to the gears is critical.
Then, you have to write down, carefully, the order/orientation of the components that comprise the gears that will come
out of the gear-mechanisms. This is really important, too, because their installation-orientation is confusing.
Also, be SURE to record the order/orientation of the three gear-cables that you'll find.
Hopefully, their inner cables' wound-ends are still squared-off; be careful with them.
This project is VERY doable, but you must record EVERYTHING that you encounter, in disassembling the two sides of this guy,
so that you can reverse the process, after every component is cleaned/polished and lubed up and painted.
There are also some solenoids that you'll find, in this deal, but, again, write down/diagram/photo everything---when I overhauled
my car's power seat, digital photography didn't exist.
Do this right, and you'll never have to worry about 'it' again; do it wrong, and you'll be using colorful language on yourself and on that seat's mechanisms...until you eventually do get it right (and you will).
BUT, the absolutely critical issue is documenting the location of all six lifting arms' gear-attachment, because being-off by only
one 'tooth', on one arm, will mess up the seat's movement coordination!
AND: being able to move the seat mechanisms to their fully upright (opened-up) positions before you
try to disassemble the mechanisms.
Once you initially get the mechanisms fully-up (and maybe fully-back, too---this will give you an ABSOLUTE
position to (try to) replicate, upon re-assembly), you shouldn't have to apply any further electricity to
the system, until you test out the operation of the solenoids....they're fun to watch them operate the conduited cables.
Edited by d500neil 2011-06-11 10:20 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 363
| Great info guys, thanks. Neil what did you use as lube on the tracks, slaves etc? Would copper antisieze be a good idea on the tracks or just a standard lithium grease?
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | I just used lithium grease; altho the electrical connections to/at the solenoids might appreciate a dielectric grease
application. I Forget their initiation operation, right now.
The 6 toothed lifting arms really don't need to have any grease applied to them, once they're cleaned.
Any grease, there, will only attract/hold dirt to that area, and be counter-productive; maybe just a dab of grease
on their concavities---nothing much is needed.
Doctors don't like to operate on their own families, so, I'd like to overhaul your seat; it is a bit of an intellectual/manual
challenge to record everything's position that you touch/move/adjust, but, it is, in the end, an almost a purely mechanical
exercise, but it is a bit like a Rubick's cube, since both sides of the mechanism operate independently, with also together in a coordinated action....kinda like a marching band or military formation.
Edited by d500neil 2011-06-12 6:17 PM
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Expert
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Location: Sept. 1958 | ram300 - 2011-06-11 10:39 PM
Great info guys, thanks. Neil what did you use as lube on the tracks, slaves etc? Would copper antisieze be a good idea on the tracks or just a standard lithium grease?
I wouldn't use anti seize, that stuff gets hard after some time. I'd go with a good white lithium grease. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Y'know....what you probably should try doing (altho it is no where near as macho as doing both sides at the same time)
is overhauling the passenger's side first, just to get the 'hang' of the three lifting levers' positioning and operation.
When you're done cleaning/lubing/polishing/painting that half, you can ensure that it operates in conjunction with the
driver's side.
At that point, the two sides may still work poorly (depending upon the mechanical-electrical condition of the driver's side)
but, you can play with the adjustment of the passenger's side easier than you can with the driver's side, and the adjustment/
documentation lessons that you learn over on the passenger's side should carry over to the driver's side (where all of the 'fun'
work resides).
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | .
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | That's them--btw, all of those gears-and spacers, above, fall-apart from each other, and, unless Sven would
have very carefully recorded/documented the orientation of those gears and the three lifting levers, as they
engage the gears, he would have been in deep doo-doo, trying to guessstimate the levers' proper orientation
when he would have tried to reassemble the mechanism.
And, about the only way that an overhaul can be performed is when the mechanisms are raised up to their full height.
Edited by d500neil 2011-06-13 8:09 PM
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | And, now/then, Sven, show everyone the motor-solenoids and the orientation of the three conduited wire cables
that run to the driver's side gear set.
What's really nice about this project is that no special tools or equipment are required.
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | .
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The wood frame is for to be able to move/transport the power seat without damaging the cable housings |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Very nice before-and-after; Sven, do you have any pics of the solenoids' overhaul?
When I did all this, at least I didn't have to open up the motor!---but everything else got the O/H work done
to it.
Note how Sven has marked those three cables; they come right out and it would be confusing to try to second-guess
their subsequent installation order, if not so-marked before their removal.
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The solenoids where in good working order, so I did not open them Neil. No pictures on them. |
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Expert
Posts: 1737
Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | WOW!!!!! Hey, thanks guys!! I haven't done mine yet, so this is all great info!! I probably would'a screwed it up. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
| Hey look, an EXCELLENT writeup, with plenty of pics, warnings, and advice buried in posts from 2011!!
Are sticky threads organized for reference not done here?
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-23 8:35 AM
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Power seat rebuild/test/clean
