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New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker
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Shep
Posted 2011-02-14 5:12 PM (#261028 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Expert

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Cool, looks familar though. LOL
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floyd066
Posted 2011-02-16 12:13 AM (#261197 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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I paid $400 for mine about 5 years ago. The 331 poly has an upgraded cam and new valves. I'm going with an alternator and a different power steering pump, to allow the engine to be seen. I converted to front disc with AAj Brakes. I needed a Virgil Exner finned ride.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-02-23 10:57 AM (#262093 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hi John

Thanks for your information. I visited the "What did you do to your FL car today" and saw the pictures you posted. The chassis looks wonderful! Congratulation! Furthermore I visited your photo album to get an overview about your project. I wish you goooood luck for the finishing of your wonderful Windsor.
Thanks a lot for the information about how much you paid for it. I guess it's clear I paid truck loads of money more for my Chrysli.
But for years when not for decades nobody did a maintenance at my Chrysli (preowners...). So until now I paid another 5 digit sum to my mechanic, but at least I got the date of the appointment my mechanic did /w the road traffic licensing department: next week over. That means mid March I'll mount the license tags and then the fun begins.
What I'll do within next few weeks:
- clock is not working (power?)
- brake warning light does not work (no feed? - I'll check it first, the bulb is new)
- no map light (where is the socket? the map light lens is in the glove box)
- mount door perimeter weatherstrips (the set I bought at Kanter is worthless, the wrong profile; I'll ask Gary Goers)
later on (e.g. next year): what's with the radio - the pointer doesn't move when I rotate the tune knob
Happy motoring!

Dieter


Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-02-24 1:13 AM
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floyd066
Posted 2011-02-26 2:03 PM (#262633 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Let me know how the weatherstripping works for you from Gary. I need to replace all of the stuff. Eastern Washington State is a very dry enviroment so the rust in the body is the front floors, a small spot in the trunk, and the rear lower quarters have been repaired sometime in the past.
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d500neil
Posted 2011-02-26 2:56 PM (#262635 - in reply to #262633)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

Posts: 19146
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Dieter, your clock's not working might just turn out to be a good thing, for you, regarding its 60/24/7/365/decades of
continued operation.

Hopefully, your clock will rejoin the living by simply spraying some WD-40 into one of its rear openings.

Sounds too-good-2-B-true, but that protocol can awaken a sleeping clock.

You may find that the small fuse, behind the clock, may need to have its connections be cleaned-off (the fuse
might even be broken).

After you get the clock running, 'watch' its timing; you can advance or retard the time by 1-minute per day by simply
moving the hours by '12-hours' for each minute that your clock is 'off'.

Keep playing with it, until your clock puts a Rolex to shame.

If a clock will not hold an adjustment, its 'contact-points' might be worn (which almost certainly would have happened if it had
continued to operate for 50 years !), so that it would require an internal overhaul.




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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-02-27 5:51 AM (#262688 - in reply to #262633)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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floyd066 - 2011-02-25 8:03 PM

Let me know how the weatherstripping works for you from Gary. I need to replace all of the stuff. Eastern Washington State is a very dry enviroment so the rust in the body is the front floors, a small spot in the trunk, and the rear lower quarters have been repaired sometime in the past.


Hi John
I'll let you know about the weatherstripping as soon as I'll order/get/mount it. But I guess I'll do it this summer or fall.
Good luck for you and your project!

Dieter
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-02-27 6:03 AM (#262690 - in reply to #262635)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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d500neil - 2011-02-25 8:56 PM

Dieter, your clock's not working might just turn out to be a good thing, for you, regarding its 60/24/7/365/decades of
continued operation.

Hopefully, your clock will rejoin the living by simply spraying some WD-40 into one of its rear openings.

Sounds too-good-2-B-true, but that protocol can awaken a sleeping clock.

You may find that the small fuse, behind the clock, may need to have its connections be cleaned-off (the fuse
might even be broken).

After you get the clock running, 'watch' its timing; you can advance or retard the time by 1-minute per day by simply
moving the hours by '12-hours' for each minute that your clock is 'off'.

Keep playing with it, until your clock puts a Rolex to shame.

If a clock will not hold an adjustment, its 'contact-points' might be worn (which almost certainly would have happened if it had
continued to operate for 50 years !), so that it would require an internal overhaul.






Hi Neil
Thank you very much for your information about the clock. I'm sure I'll get it running again. But it needs some time until I'll get my car out of the mechanics.
At home I got a can of WD40. I use it for many things on my truck.
Personally I do not care about the precision, because I'll disconnect the battery after a run to let my car sit for a week or more. When I reconnect the battery to do a journey I'll have to readjust the time either. It's the same for my truck.

In my truck I mounted an electric clock from AutoMeter. The truck has a main switch to disconnect the battery. First thing after turning the switch to the on position is to adjust the electric clock... and then prime the carb /w the additional electric pump.

Back to the Chrysli: First I'll check the power and then I'll use WD40 and afterward I'll remove the back cover of the clock. I guess the construction of the case is quite similar to the speedometer.
Happy motoring!

Dieter
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-07 5:55 AM (#263750 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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A happy day today! My Chrysli passed the check at the road traffic licensing department. My Chrysli got the historic state
I guess Friday this week I'm going to get it at my mechanic's - first I have to get the registry card.

Happy motoring!

Dieter
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ttotired
Posted 2011-03-07 9:14 AM (#263764 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Congrats Dieter

So its all leagal now

You can drive it ?

Mick
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-07 3:50 PM (#263798 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hello Mick

Thanks a lot for your good wishes. Yes I'll pick it up this Friday, 03/11/2011. I did a test ride 10/30/2010. It was successful. The PowerFlite shifts very smooth up and down. The kick down works and it's a quite and comfortable ride. Since my test drive I got a new exhaust system (Waldrons Antique Exhaust /w Impostor mufflers). My mechanic told me it sounds more powerful now. I'll post more after I picked it up. All the best for all of you!

Happy motoring becomes true now (for me)!

Dieter

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-07 3:51 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-12 3:11 PM (#264400 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Yesterday afternoon, evening and today I did journeys with my Chrysli. It's a pleasure to ride. Sometimes the Powerflite shifts very hard up and down (I could hear clonk). I like the prismatic rear mirror and the dimmer for the panel lights!
The temperature gauge stays very low at normal temperature. At 170 F surface temperature on the same position where the sensor is and 66 Ohms I guess the needle should be more or less at the center. At the sensor I measure around 6V - ignition on. I'll do some checks (according the service manual) later on.
The door weatherstrip from Kanter is okay. The door weatherstrips are mounted. I only could hear the noise of the tires - American Classic 235/75R15S /w M+S classification.
Here is a short ride:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSNdy8DgHQc

Happy motoring!

Dieter

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-12 3:14 PM




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1956DeS
Posted 2011-03-12 7:23 PM (#264421 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker


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Dieter, that was great Thanks for the ride. I felt like I was in the drivers seat. Will download some of the others soon.

BG
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soiouz
Posted 2011-03-13 9:14 AM (#264463 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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The picture of the Chrysler parked next to the Smart is priceless!! Great looking Chrysler!
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-13 3:42 PM (#264505 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Thanks a lot. It's my Chrysli. For the first three journeys with my Chrylis I got a 14 mpg gas consumption. I guess it's a very good value.

I wish I could readjust the drivers side door lock so that it keeps the opener locked. At the passengers side I could rotate the key to 3 o' clock and 9 o' clock to lock and unlock the door opener. At the passengers side the door lock keeps the opener locked. At the drivers side I could reach the 9 o' clock position to open and almost 3 o' clock. I feel and hear the lock working, but when I pull the handle the mechanism doesn't hold and the door opens. During pulling the opener I feel that the lock mechanism goes back to the unlock position (apparently the lock mechanism isn't fully engaged - or at the end position).

Happy motoring!

Dieter

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-13 3:52 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-19 1:06 PM (#265196 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Today I visited my Chrysli. Always a 30 min journey to my Chrysli.
The targets today were:
Get out the reason why the horns do not work anymore
Find out why the temperature gauge stays around 10 to 20% when the engine has normal temperature
Looking for the map light socket
Get out the reason why the drivers door lock doesn't keep the locked position
Results:
Horns: the relays is defect. When I short circuit the input and the output of the working contacts, the horns are working.
Temperature: the sensor shows about 1.8k Ohms at 41F (5 degree C). That's ways too much.
Didn't find the map light socket. But as far as I got out there are two wires at the map/dome light switch. I guess I have to remove either the radio or the panel
Drivers side door lock: The escutcheon of the door handle is partially bent. That's not the problem, except that water will find it's way into the door. But I guess the lock is defect, dirty or worn. When the door handle is released there is no contact to the door lock. When I pull the door handle first there is a small travel until the boss get contact to the latch and then I moves the latch to free the rotor of the lock and the door opens. I didn't remove the lock. I guess first I'll have to remove the glass and the channel at the rear side to get access to the lock.

What I wonder: does anybody have the same problem with the door lock? Solution? I'll appreciate your comment. Thank you.

Happy motoring!

Dieter



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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-20 10:35 AM (#265281 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Today on a sunny Sunday I did a short ride (do not know if an hour or less or more...). It runs good. First I had to install the drivers side door panel again. But look at the front door. It looks like new - fresh from the factory - except the door lock...

And a short presentation of my car (outside only..., Impostor mufflers): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Su04zcyC6U

Happy motoring!

Dieter




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d500neil
Posted 2011-03-20 4:35 PM (#265333 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

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Dieter, a possibility for a too-cool running engine is a stuck-open thermostat.

"Everybody" makes a big-deal about having their cars run as cool-ly as possible, but, our engines have a normal
operating temperature, and a failed T-stat will mean that your engine might not ever get up to its proper temperature,
and, a too-cool running engine will WASTE gasoline, as well as harm the engine.

At any rate, it's no big-deal to remove the T-stat, inspect it, and to test its operation, on a stove top or work bench.




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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-20 5:17 PM (#265337 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hello Richard

Thanks a lot for your answer. I think the thermostat opens. The top of the radiator had about 140F while the crossover where the temperature sending unit and the thermostat is had the surface temperature of about 150F (engines off and staying for about 30 min). The temp sending unit has a resistance of 1.8 k ohm, cold (45F), and 680 ohms at 150F surface temp. I took a set of resistors with me, but didn't test it (1, 2.2, 3.3, 10 and 12 ohm). I guess the cold value should be around 360 ohms as sermey and wizard measured at the temperature sending unit in '59 Chryslers. I guess - because Chrysler uses a choke type thermostat - if the thermostat doesn't open the engine would overheat.
I tried to crank the small threaded bolt -as Serge (sermey) did - but I couldn't. The bolt is fixed.
By the way: the warm water heater is very powerful. I did open the valve only a little and got very warm (with the fresh air flaps closed).
I tried to follow the checking procedure in the 1956 Chrysler Service Manual. But I couldn't execute step 2 (disconnect the engine to ground wire, the temp gauge should swing to the top right position). I only found the wire from the battery to the engine, but not an engine to body wire like my truck has on the passenger side (from the last intake manifold screw to the firewall). When I disconnect the battery to engine wire, there is no power at all in my car.

Happy motoring!

Dieter

BTW:
Link to the thread "Defective Water Temperature Sensor"
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&...

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-20 5:24 PM
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floyd066
Posted 2011-03-20 5:55 PM (#265342 - in reply to #265337)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hey, do you have a picture of the linkage on the left side of the carb? I finally have the engine and powerflite connected properly and am installing a 57-58 power steering pump. Don't want that generator/p.s.pump combo to cover the left side of the engine.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-21 4:19 AM (#265394 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hello John

Look, the best view of the throttle linkage I got is this. I'll go to take a picture of the linkage. But I think there is not much to see, because the linkage goes around the lower area of the firewall. The space between the engine and the firewall is very limited as well.
I wish you good luck for your project Windsor.

Happy motoring!

Dieter



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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-21 3:50 PM (#265434 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hey John

Look this is the only picture I found in my collection. I don't know if it will help.

Happy motoring!

Dieter



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floyd066
Posted 2011-03-22 12:27 AM (#265496 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Dieter, you are fantastic!! I don't have the diagram in my shop book. Where did you get it? I printed it out right away. The other I will study very closely. Thanks friend. John.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-22 2:36 AM (#265500 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hello John

Some days ago Phil the French posted a thread with this link: http://jholst.net/dust-to-dust.php
I downloaded from the 55 to 58 category the group 23 body pdf document. The quality of this electronic document is ways better than the print copy I got from Bishko. I wish ya good luck, dear friend.

Happy motoring!

Dieter

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-03-22 2:38 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-04-10 2:50 PM (#267858 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Except from (probably) crashing the starter motor I took some pictures from the Carter WCFB. Good luck, the service tag is still mounted. From my experience I guess most of the primary stage side is clogged. No wonder is the idle speed so high. I didn't check the setting of the mixture screws. Actually I cannot start the engine anymore...

Happy motoring!

Dieter



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floyd066
Posted 2011-04-10 3:38 PM (#267863 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Extreme Veteran

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Hey Dieter!! Great shots!!! Looking at taillights on yours, its going to look a little different on mine. I plan to alter the housing to accept 2 LED vertical strips within the lens. One for braking and turn signal. The one bulb doesn't seem like enough light.
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BarnFind57
Posted 2011-04-10 9:06 PM (#267909 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Somehow managed to miss this one digging through the old threads.... Beuatiful old Chrysler, sir.

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-04-27 12:06 PM (#270175 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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After removing most of the old oil and grime I took some pictures of the starter motor of my Chrysli. After I removed it I noticed that the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid (brown, 16 ga) was loose at the relay post.
To restore this starter is loads more expensive than a new one (e.g. Powermaster 9530).
History: the starter sometimes didn't crank the engine, once it was locked in the ring gear and after that it didn't engage into the ring gear, but rotated quite slow (-> chrrrr). Actually I try to get an answer from Joe Mazzone (Buckeye Auto Electric) - restoring cost. The weight of the starter motor is 25 lbs (11.3 kg), shipment to the States about US $ 100.- to 140.-

Happy Motoring

Dieter

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-04-27 12:09 PM




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MOPAR-TO-YA
Posted 2011-04-28 2:45 AM (#270242 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker


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My bet is-- take the starter all apart and clean it inside. put in new end armature bushings, clean and lathe turn the commentater, and put in new brushes , and it will work for you. ............................MO
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-04-29 12:52 PM (#270435 - in reply to #270242)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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MOPAR-TO-YA - 2011-04-27 8:45 AM

My bet is-- take the starter all apart and clean it inside. put in new end armature bushings, clean and lathe turn the commentater, and put in new brushes , and it will work for you. ............................MO


Yes Steve, I guess it's the most economic way. Yesterday evening I removed the starter solenoid to clean the area under the solenoid. Inside the main housing is a lot of grime around the brush holders. I assembled the starter solenoid and mounted it again. I'll wait for a week. Until now I didn't order any parts for the starter motor. I just looked around and are ready to order a starter solenoid, the front bushing and a brush set. But what, when the stator winding and/or armature winding is/are defect? I was looking around for winding companies. Three are in an area of 10 mi. I'll contact them after I disassembled all parts (except pole shoes and stator winding).

Happy Motoring!

Dieter
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d500neil
Posted 2011-04-29 6:53 PM (#270481 - in reply to #270435)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

Posts: 19146
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Location: bishop, ca
Hi, Dieter; did you ever fix your door latch's operation?







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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-05-01 4:23 PM (#270670 - in reply to #270481)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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d500neil - 2011-04-29 12:53 AM

Hi, Dieter; did you ever fix your door latch's operation?




Thank you very much for your question, Neil. No I didn't. I postponed it to the fall/winter 2011. I couldn't ride my Chrysli anymore. It is in the air with the drivers side and the starter motor is removed.
I'm swinging forth and back (pro/contra) restoring the original one/new mini starter.
Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1yYxhpbD2A
I know, the example is a Porsche 911, not an FL Mopar

Happy Motoring!

Dieter
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d500neil
Posted 2011-05-02 6:31 PM (#270846 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

Posts: 19146
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Dieter, cleaning and restoring our starters and generators are relatively simple procedures.

Once they're fixed-up, you can forget about them; except for a once-a-year oiling the generator.






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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-05-24 3:01 PM (#273789 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Yesterday I removed the carb to clean it. I'll disassemble it and bring the parts to a ultra sonic cleaning shop nearby.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter



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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-06-05 2:28 PM (#275531 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Yesterday I mounted the cleaned carb and removed the carpet, the under laying isolation, the heater regulator valve and replaced the oil filter (FRAM was inside, now WIX). I didn't mount the shell correct - today the result was a big mess. I destroyed one gasket and couldn't mount the filter again with the only existing. The gasket was sliding away all the time when I was trying to install the filter with the shell. I gave up and went home. Good luck I had a look into the parts catalog. So I figured out that there is a stem and a shell with nut - not a big screw like it appears in my case. So next time I'll try to separate the nut from the stem and mount the stem first into the base.
Good luck the engine didn't start, but fired once or twice. I noticed a small leak of gas between the base and the bowl at the driver side, secondary stage. I guess I'll remove the carb again to check if I torqued the mounting bolts (base to bowl).
All the mats and carpets are drying out. That needs a lot of time...

Happy Motoring!

Dieter



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catman
Posted 2011-06-05 4:06 PM (#275545 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Location: Montreal, Canada
Dieter,

Your oil filter problem reminds me of a bad adventure I had with my first car back in 1984.
It was a 1955 Buick Century and I didn't screw the oil filter bowl bolt tigh enough. It was a big mess when I crank the engine.
Oil was everywhere on my girlfriend's father driveway !!!!!!
I was 18 and I had learn the hard way. Needlees to say, nobody was impress with my mechanic ability at the time
(read really angry).

By the way, your car looks rock solid. Those floor are incredible. Cool car !!!


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BarnFind57
Posted 2011-06-05 8:55 PM (#275572 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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What a mess to have to dry up....

But, on the positive, the floors look super nice.

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floyd066
Posted 2011-06-10 12:22 AM (#276209 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Posts: 347
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Location: Ocean Park, Washington
Dieter, I replaced that old oil filter canister and bought the adapter from HotHemiHeads.com. Only their 30 degree adapter will work. The same angle as that old piece of garbage.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-06-20 8:31 AM (#277298 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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The canister oil filter... The second trial was successful. I was lying on the rh fender, working at the canister filter. The gasket I fixed it with a small rope of self adhesive tape, then I guided the screw into the thread and the filter onto his place. Then I pressed the canister case down and tightened the screw until it had contact to the case. Then I removed the tape and tightened the screw completely. First time starting the engine some drops of oil appeared around the screw. I cleaned and tried to torque the screw a little bit more.
After filling the cooling ciruit with plain water I let the engine run until the thermostat opened - no more oil drops appeared.
Then I drained the cooling fluid once more (only signs of coolling fluid, mostly water). When the cooling circuit was empty I closed all valves and put in cooling fluid, -31 F rating and run the engine again until the thermostat opened.
The insulation mats and the carpets are dry as well - so I installed the mats and the carpet. Only missing is the front bench. It's too heave for me alone.

John, thank you very much for your answer. I'll keep it in my mind. If I'll remove the canister I could use your idea. Thanks.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-07-03 12:06 PM (#278976 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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The power steering makes troubles after about 5 minutes from the cold start. I made two videos. Please enjoy...

Happy Motoring!

Dieter


Stopped by (power steering problems!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJRZgz9Kuks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPcX3El1as4
Got an idea why the power steering seems to overheat (oil starts to boil and spills all around - just an idea)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMO9f9WoEsA

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-07-03 12:21 PM
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d500neil
Posted 2011-07-03 1:24 PM (#278981 - in reply to #278976)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

Posts: 19146
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Location: bishop, ca
Dieter, every oil filter should come with a new rubber gasket, inside its box.

When I change my car's oil, (in the next couple days, coincidentally), I just inspect the existing gasket for any damage
and if it is perfect condition--it always is--I typically just reuse it, as it will have taken a natural shape-set to its housing and doesn't
move around when the canister is re-secured to it.

If you (or anyone) need a spare gasket, PM me and I can slip one into an envelope; I should have 1+ spares lying around.




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d500neil
Posted 2011-07-03 1:40 PM (#278984 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

Posts: 19146
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You've previously drained the P/S fluid, right?

Disconnect the outlet hose from it and the system will drain in only a couple seconds.

You might be able to buy Lucas' Power Steering Lubricant & Stop-leak---that's very thick stuff, like honey,
and use a bottle of it along with power steering fluid.

It is said, & I'm pretty sure I've used ATF in the power steering system with fine results, but ATF is somewhat
detergent-like---it's also said that you can put a quart of ATF in the engine oil 500 miles or so from an oil
change---but haven't ever tried doing that....so maybe ATF may be a good thing to put into the P/S system
along with Lucas' stuff---they're both pink colored!

A 'groan' when you turn the wheels (even, from YOU)...is usually a sign of trapped air in the system, which should
work its way out, from continued turning-efforts.

(right/wrong; anyone? Buehler?)







Edited by d500neil 2011-07-03 4:51 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-07-03 4:51 PM (#279001 - in reply to #278981)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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d500neil - 2011-07-02 7:24 PM

Dieter, every oil filter should come with a new rubber gasket, inside its box.

When I change my car's oil, (in the next couple days, coincidentally), I just inspect the existing gasket for any damage
and if it is perfect condition--it always is--I typically just reuse it, as it will have taken a natural shape-set to its housing and doesn't
move around when the canister is re-secured to it.

If you (or anyone) need a spare gasket, PM me and I can slip one into an envelope; I should have 1+ spares lying around.



Thanks Neil
Addressing the engine canister oil filter: I bought a WIX filter. Within the box were three (!) gaskets. Two of them with the same size for the canister. The third I don't for what. The old gasket only had some signs of compressing (border of the canister). Unfortunately I throw it away. Next time I'll keep the gasket and I'll reuse it as you recommend. Thank you very much for your idea.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-07-03 5:20 PM (#279007 - in reply to #278984)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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d500neil - 2011-07-02 7:40 PM

You've previously drained the P/S fluid, right?

Disconnect the outlet hose from it and the system will drain in only a couple seconds.

You might be able to buy Lucas' Power Steering Lubricant & Stop-leak---that's very thick stuff, like honey,
and use a bottle of it along with power steering fluid.

It is said, & I'm pretty sure I've used ATF in the power steering system with fine results, but ATF is somewhat
detergent-like---it's also said that you can put a quart of ATF in the engine oil 500 miles or so from an oil
change---but haven't ever tried doing that....so maybe ATF may be a good thing to put into the P/S system
along with Lucas' stuff---they're both pink colored!

A 'groan' when you turn the wheels (even, from YOU)...is usually a sign of trapped air in the system, which should
work its way out, from continued turning-efforts.

(right/wrong; anyone? Buehler?)



I've never drained the P/S fluid since I got my Chrysler spring 2010. I removed the existing P/S pump and mounted a refurbished pump I got at ePay about a year ago. Both hoses are new the pressure hose I got at ePay either. The return hose I bought from the mechanic. He filled in ATF II or III (Dexron).

I've never checked the fluid level until I ran into troubles with the power steering (I never noticed an oil leak before).
I just filled in about half of a quart to adjust the P/S fluid level (the level should stay above the filter element...).
The strong torque to rotate the steering wheel to the LH side (where the oncoming traffic is...), afterwards the total blackout of the P/S support and loud whining from the motor bay...
Later on after I opened the reservoir of the P/S I could imagine that the P/S pump sucked air instead of P/S fluid. And now probably some air has trapped in the steering gear.
Since I corrected the fluid level - I didn't notice any leakage of the P/S. I used Dexron III to adjust the level.

You're right: Now I could hear the groan every time I rotate the steering wheel (beware, it's not me who's groaning).

Happy Motoring!

Dieter


By the way: The oil I cleaned from the valve cover, the hoses, the inner fender and the vacuum reservoir smelled like fish oil...
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-07-21 5:48 AM (#281510 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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While I let run the engine with the new fuel pump I checked the behavior of the power steering again. I applied different engine speeds while I was turning the steering wheel from lock to lock and back (quite slow).
The more I turned the steering wheel cw the stronger the force to turn the steering wheel back appeared. The higher the engine speed the higher the force. Now I lifted up all four wheels (mainly to check the fuel line for leaks when I'll apply some pressure at the filler tube at the tank).
I'm on the way to remove the p/s pump from the generator to get rid of the self turning (most time ccw) of the steering. I don't see the chance that the steering gear would cure itself.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter

BTW: I know - it might be my fault: after the initial fault occured back home I tried to cure it. Several times I turned the steering wheel ways faster than 60 rpm clock wise (cw) from the center position.
Might be that I damaged a gasket or something else in the piston system of the steering gear (the service manual warns not to rotate faster than 60 rpm)

Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-07-21 9:13 AM
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d500neil
Posted 2011-07-21 4:06 PM (#281590 - in reply to #281510)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

Posts: 19146
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If there are about 3 turns lock-to-lock on the steering wheel, 60 turns-per-minute (60 rpm) would equate
to about one full turn of the wheels (3 steering wheel rotations) in about 20 seconds, not counting for any
lost-time in beginning to turn the steering wheel back the other-way?

I guess that that sounds about right, but, with the wheels off the ground (permitting the rapid cranking of the
steering wheel in such a manner)....I wonder what kind of damage might be done to the P/S pump, with no
'load' upon it?




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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-07-21 5:05 PM (#281599 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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The very fast turn on the steering wheel was shock wise not full lock to lock (a little bit more than 3 turns from lock to lock). The wheels were on the floor, the front end weight on the wheels.
Initially the steering wheel (initially at the neutral position) started to turn ccw as soon as the engine started (the car was on the wheels). I always MUST keep at least one hand at the steering wheel.

Today I tried once again. The wheels are off the floor actually. I took care to use several seconds to rotate the steering wheel from one lock to the other. At the end when the POWER script is at the top, the steering wheel stands still and when the script is at 6 o clock and I take my hand away the steering wheel starts turning ccw. It stops close to the lock.

an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2pasBqHVC8

Happy Motoring!

Dieter
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-07-28 3:57 PM (#282704 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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I think, this is a very good thread for my problem with the power steering (overheats... p/s fluid boils and spills out - I wrote about it yesterday at the What did you do to your FL car today).

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=27175&...

It's because when the steering wheel is at the straight forward position (I call it 12 o clock) it doesn't spin to the left, when it is at 6 o clock (I turned it 180 deg) and let it loose the spin to the left starts immediately. I feel unequal force during a full turn of the steering wheel. This is overlaying the second problem (spin to the left/overheating).

Happy Motoring!

Dieter

BTW: according Wizard the almost the same or higher temperature of the p/s pump, the hoses and the steering box than the upper water box at the radiator is too high, overheated.

At least I mounted new upper belts (Gates XL 7440 instead of 7450)



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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-09-04 8:31 AM (#287503 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: RE: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Yesterday I lifted my Chrysli up to rest it onto three leg supporters. It looks a little bit dangerous. The reason is to prepare it to remove the steering gear and mount a restored one (actually at Lares Corporation, thank you very much, John).
I bought a 1 m (about three yards) of 3/8" threaded shaft and few 3/8" hex nuts. The steering wheel puller I bought has two 3/8-18 x 4" screws. These are a little bit too short. So I could cut two 5" parts and use the hex nuts as the head instead of the hex section of the screw.
The resealing of the glass filter I'll do when the car is at his own wheels again (approx October or November).

Happy Motoring!

Dieter



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FIN ME
Posted 2011-09-04 9:39 AM (#287510 - in reply to #222613)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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Hi, Dieter - just found your thread. I know you've heard it before, but what a wonderful car you have there! The colours are great, and I really like your fabric pattern. Your steering wheel is in amazingly good shape! Your Chrysler has found a good home.

I enjoyed looking through your pictures. We have a Smart Car, so I especially liked the picture of your Chrysler parked beside the Smart Car. Our DeSoto is as wide as our Smart Car is long, so they make an odd pair, sitting in the driveway together.

Keep those great photos coming!
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-10-16 3:12 PM (#292830 - in reply to #287510)
Subject: Re: New member - 1956 Chrysler New Yorker



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FIN ME - 2011-09-03 3:39 PM

Hi, Dieter - just found your thread. I know you've heard it before, but what a wonderful car you have there! The colours are great, and I really like your fabric pattern. Your steering wheel is in amazingly good shape! Your Chrysler has found a good home.

I enjoyed looking through your pictures. We have a Smart Car, so I especially liked the picture of your Chrysler parked beside the Smart Car. Our DeSoto is as wide as our Smart Car is long, so they make an odd pair, sitting in the driveway together.

Keep those great photos coming!
:)

Thanks a lot for your comment.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter
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