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Location: Oconomowoc Wi | jboymechanic - 2012-04-18 8:02 AM Badger Metal Finishing has a bunch of my '56 Imperial chrome, my first experience with re-chroming. Are you happy with the results from them Bart? My first experience with rechroming as well....
I had to look extremely close to find ny flaws. There may have been a mix-up as I told them that these bases werewere original virgin potmetal pieces ready to be chromed. I didn't mean that they were prepped completely. as such I found a blemish that I had not taken care of as I was doing my own prepping, sanding etc, prior to sending them out.
I believe that they figured the parts were ready and went straight to the tanks. That said....yes they look very nice. |
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Location: west chazy ny | Today I put new brake line from dist box to rear end then when done realized were I flanged it its leaking :l so have to re flange it now. Also took exhaust from the muffler back seeing it was shot! |
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Location: Blythewood, SC | I moved it off the rack to do an alignment on the S-10. First time I've used the alignment machine a buddy gave me. Once all of the optical heads are calibrated it's a breeze to use. I was thinking about selling the alignment machine, but now I think I'll keep it. |
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Location: little rock, AR | I was tired of not knowing how much gas I had because the sending unit in the tank is shot. I had to drain 15gal of non -ethanol and ordered my new sending unit. Kinda pricey,$99.00 with shipping. This is for my '60 Savoy.
Edited by oldwood 2012-04-23 12:04 AM
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Posts: 2265
Location: McComb, Mississippi | Painted the steering wheel on the Plymouth today. now I just need to wetsand it... |
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Posts: 1318
Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | Installed the passenger side quarter window ... And it was a mess !
The service manual says very little about the procedure, and it does not help you.
I had to do it twice to get it correctly (and I mean assembling AND disassembling twice ...).
And still I have not a clue about the correct procedure to do it on the driver side ...
Edited by Chrome58 2012-04-23 5:30 AM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | With help from my beautiful wife, we installed 2 patches in the rear floorboard with solid rivets. I cut patches from the hood of a 74 Blazer. Preety cool!! What a wife!!! |
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Location: Signal Mountain, TN | I removed more paint.... still.... 
All that's left now is a fender and the roof....
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Posts: 100
Location: west chazy ny | I havn't done anything weather is cold and raining but did ask pertonix if they had a pertronox ignitor kit for my car they said we do not but can make a custom one for you for $300....um no thanks |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Mike, you need to score a dual point distributor in order to install Pertronix's "Ignitor 1383" into your car.
Can you read the model number on your car's Autolite distributor?
It's something like IBK-xxxx or IBJ-xxxx
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Veteran
Posts: 100
Location: west chazy ny | yeah it's a Auto lite IBJ 4301A |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | The IBJ 4301A was installed in 56 Dodge Poly V/8's and the 56 PLY 270 2-bbl V/8's.
It is a good performing dissie, with 4 degrees of initial advance recommended, with 30 degrees of built-in Mechanical
Advancement = 34 degrees with an OEM Vacuum Advance rated at 25 degrees = 54 degrees of total advancement.
It has relatively heavy primary & secondary springing, which will slow down the rate of advancement, so that the 34
degrees of total M.A. might not be reached until around 4,500 RPM+ of WOT, or so (the V.A. is inoperable at WOT)
...and, at cruise mode, when the V.A. provides its advancement, the heavy springing will hold down the M.A., so that the total advancement might be retarded to....maybe 45 degrees.
If you can find a wasted dual point dissie, its breaker plate could be put into your dissie, so that the Pertronix E.I. could
then be installed, along with the dualie's light weight springing, for faster timing advancement.
Meanwhile, you should be on the lookout for a good/NOS/re-man V.A. unit that is rated at about 14 degrees (a '7' would
be stamped on its lever arm), so that you could dial in about 6 degrees of I.A. + 30 degrees of M.A. + 14 degrees of
V.A. = 50 total degrees of advancement.
But, your dissie has good Mechanical Advancement already built into it, as a starting point.
Edited by d500neil 2012-04-24 4:31 PM
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Location: west chazy ny | haha you lost me there I'm not to good with distributors that's why I wanted to go with the ignitor kit east maintnece and what of cars/trucks would the dual points distributor be in? also does it just drop in? |
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Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | Have developed my 59 AFB carburetors that I bought the Big M in January (Turn of the self from an Imperial 59) Will blasted (glass or nut shells??), and all the rods and screws to electric galvanized. Have a good carter carburetor at Windsorn but not the right model.
If any know how I blasted the carburetors with glass or nut shells?
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I did a journey with my Chrysli. Up to a local pass with grades up to 15%. Down to the next village I drove in "L" and from time to time I applied the brakes not to get too fast. I've never seen blue smoke in the rear mirror. That's good. But I've to plan when I'll replace the hoses to/from the radiator to desludge the engine. It's weird how black the oil was (when I had a leak around the canister filter) and how brown (colored like honey) the oil is at the dip stick at the same time.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 468
| Got my new plymouths bumper in and put her o. |
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Location: Blythewood, SC | Windsor59 - 2012-04-25 8:52 AM
Have developed my 59 AFB carburetors that I bought the Big M in January (Turn of the self from an Imperial 59) Will blasted (glass or nut shells??), and all the rods and screws to electric galvanized. Have a good carter carburetor at Windsorn but not the right model.
If any know how I blasted the carburetors with glass or nut shells?
I wouldn't use glass bead. I usually soak them in carb cleaner. If you want to blast the surface, I would use soda or walnut shells, but nothing more coarse than that. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 608
Location: Madison, Wisconsin | I put two new taillight bulbs in. I purchased them at Jefferson Car Show and Swap this weekend from a vendor that was selling products from the same people that make the california car duster. The new bulbs are "supposed" to be twice as bright as original. I have yet to test them. Most likely a rip off but I was willing to take a chance. I will let you know the outcome. btw. highly recommend my califorinia car duster. Works great. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 755
Location: Big M Automotive's Yard | Yesterday I drove Brutus from Williams, ca to Redding, ca. It is a 100 miles north of us. I wanted to go see Kyle Petty's Charity Ride and the closest the were to us was in Redding. Apparently she only likes the old 2 lane highways and not the interstates. I drove old 99 north to Corning and she ran great. Stopped for gas and transferred over to I-5. We made it 20 miles and she started getting hot. I drove her at 60mph, the same we were doing on the old road. We pulled off in Red Bluff and sprayed the radiator and block with water. We did make it to the ride. I parked her next door to the event and she promptly "marked" her spot.
We stayed there for about 45 minutes and then headed to a friend's house. We let her cool off, topped her off and then headed home. She ran cool the whole way home. Go figure.
M'Lisa |
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Location: Blythewood, SC | Maybe an air bubble in the cooling system? |
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| After installing a new fuel filter and rebuilt carbs, I'm checking all connections and doing final adjustments....
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, blue exhaust smoke, under strong deceleration, going downhill (or when starting up the car) indicates worn out valve-stem
rubber seals (boots).
Mike, any Autolite dual point dissie can have its breaker plate be installed into a single point dissie so that a Pertronix "Ignitor 1383" could then be installed into it.
Dual point dissies are pricey, even bad ones.
But a guy on this site may soon be offering up a dualie-points parts-dissie.
You should remove your dissie's vacuum advance to see if it is operable (suck on its orifice & listen/feel if its diaphram is moving).
Edited by d500neil 2012-04-30 8:08 PM
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | d500neil - 2012-04-30 2:05 AM
Dieter, blue exhaust smoke, under strong deceleration, going downhill (or when starting up the car) indicates worn out valve-stem
rubber seals (boots).
Mike, any Autolite dual point dissie can have its breaker plate be installed into a single point dissie so that a Pertronix "Ignitor 1383" could then be installed into it.
Dual point dissies are pricey, even bad ones.
But a guy on this site may soon be offering up a dualie-points parts-dissie.
You should remove your dissie's vacuum advance to see if it is operable (suck on its orifice & listen/feel if its diaphram is moving).
Thank you very much. I remember a neighbor owning a '67 Plymouth Fury III /w a 383 engine (I guess I remember the Super Commando V8 emblems at the front fenders) always exhausted a blue cloud when starting the engine. That was in the mid 70ies, when I was about 13.
Or a customer of a Fiat garage brought his Ford Taunus, continuously exhausting a slight blue exhaust gas at idle where the owner of the garage said, the valve stem gaskets have gone. My truck engines shows the same, now the valve stem gaskets are new now(as some valve guides are, too).
Or BMW 2002 were well known to show a big blue cloud, when at the deceleration lane at the high way (80 mph allowed at that good old time) and down shift and brake to come down to about 35 mph in a a short distance.
At my Chrysli I've never seen blue smoke or smelled burned oil. But that doesn't tell too much. If the engine consumes a lot of oil, it could be a sign that the piston rings are not like new anymore, too.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Location: Michigan | Worked on the engine Sunday.
Put the headers on, valve covers, spark plug tubes and plugs. Put on the oil filter and filled the pan with 6 quarts of break in oil. I then spun up the oil pump with the drill and got it to 65 - 85 PSI as I rotated the engine and made sure oil got up into the heads and out the valve train.
All went well and she is primed. successfully! |
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Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | Installed the vent window frame in the passenger door.
Did swear a little.
Tried three times to install the window into the door, finally succeeded when I understood that the rear channel had to be disassembled first.
Did swear a little more ...
Adjusted the doors, scratched my new paint here and there in the process, and sweared again.
Scratched my head trying to figure how to assemble my inner window scraper with the chrome plated upper thingie.
Found a way to do it, then tried to install it and sweared again until I understood that the inner door skin was bent a little. Unbent it and installed the thingie. Looks nice.
Finally got to try to repair that broken vent window frame, driver side.
Made two holes in the pot metal, used hardened steel nails to reinforce the lot, and used plenty of JB weld.
Looks like it's gonna do the trick. Have to wait a few days though, before trying to install it.
And I did not even talk about repairing my quarter window frame, assembling and then disassembling the passenger door lock (because the hole in the arm that connects the latch with the lock was too small, had to enlarge it to allow that 1/4 bolt to go in), finally putting the door strikers (now the car doors do lock !), scratching my new paint here and there (again !), installing the complete set of stainless steel moldings around the windshield (and polishing them before), ...
Drank a lot of beer.
Ate home made hamburgers and a Philly steak sandwich (made with leftovers of a giant T-bone).
Sweared too much.
A nice weekend, if you ask me.
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Location: Connecticut | Beltran - 2012-05-01 9:24 PM Worked on the engine Sunday. Put the headers on, valve covers, spark plug tubes and plugs. Put on the oil filter and filled the pan with 6 quarts of break in oil. I then spun up the oil pump with the drill and got it to 65 - 85 PSI as I rotated the engine and made sure oil got up into the heads and out the valve train. All went well and she is primed. successfully!
Just curious about this...could you have primed the heads/built up the oil pressure by cranking the starter, assuming that the fuel line was disconnected from the fuel pump ?
Ron |
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Posts: 223
Location: Woodcrest California | Thanks to M Lane loosing it....Found the dash steering column bracket for Christine! Thanks John |
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Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | No I would not do that. Can't crank the oil pump enough and your risking all the new bearings you just put in. Drill motor is the only way to do it. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Yeah; that's called "wiping" the non lubricated bearings.
Back 20 years or so, I bought a rebuilt D500 engine (actually one of the last ones produced in 1957) that had sat for a few years.
When it was opened up, the bearings were 'wiped' and useless, because they were not properly lubricated when the engine was
reassembled by the builder.
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Posts: 4196
Location: Connecticut | OK, so let's say that instead of a freshly rebuilt engine, it's an engine that hasn't started for about 20 years. Crank turns freely after soaking in Marvel (down the spark plug holes). In this situation, would it be acceptable to do what I described above ?
Sorry about getting off-topic, but I need to know this.
Ron |
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Location: Blythewood, SC | Looked at the coolant on the floor under the 57. Decided that I can't be delusional about the radiator leak any longer. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | ..Cheap and easy repairs; the rad is held to the core support by 4 easily accessible bolts, and rad-shop work is not
spendy.
How are the radiator hoses?
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Expert
Posts: 1493
Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | Or...if it's barfing out of the overflow tube because the core is clogged with sediment... |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Right...I had my car's rad be re-cored, with an extra row of tubes; forget its price, but it was not expensive.
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Expert
Posts: 3611
Location: Blythewood, SC | I've had this radiator patched up so many times it's not funny. It's not clogged up, and it's not the core. It's the top tank seam. It splits open all the time. I need to bite the bullet and get a new one. I've been eyeballing and aluminum one from Summit that will work with my next engine as well. |
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Expert
Posts: 2499
Location: Kansas City, KS | found a tear in my power brake booster today. had a spare that came in the trunk of a parts car, it had been in there for years but still works great. got them swapped out and took a nice drive around the neighborhood. it was a much easier and quicker job that I anticipated.
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Location: west chazy ny | Started on my floors 3 bad spots turned to 9 spots after the wire wheeling wtf! darn rust got 3 holes patched now a week of rain :/ |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 446
Location: Victoria, AUSTRALIA | Finally got to work on the actual engine.
Primed the motor with a Mopar priming rod, got 55lb and nearly blew up my cordless drill 
then started mocking up some temporary wiring for the run in. Refiitted the Dissy and static timed it.
The tranny and engine oil was full but no water in radiator yet. fitted fuel hose to jerry can of fuel and cranked.
the 440 started so easy and wanted to run. I s**t myself and pull the wires off to stop it straight away. Cant believe how easy it was
to start and wants to run , love it, christine lives!!! 
so tonight going to fit the tempertaure guage & tacho with the already temporary oil guage, fill the water and connect thermo fan, then run the cam
I m going to film it so will post on you tube with a link. bloody excited, had the engine built 2 years ago
and finally getting the chance to here it run.. I'm on a high right now
Car goes to paint shop next month, just waiting on the driveshaft to be custom made
then I can drive it bar bones - LOL
more later
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Posts: 2376
Location: Eastern Iowa | Gonna pull the carbs off today and send them of to the rebuilder for a restore & re-bush.
But first I have to get by my Princess here as this was the 1st sight this AM when the door went up.
Hope to bring the F to Carlisle in July if I can finda decent price on some new tires.
Gonna put 'em on a set of 15" '70 300 chrome slotted road wheels.
Should give me a little better mileage on the trip, I hope.
Dave S
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Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | I did the thing all the cool kids are doing, and continued to cut my car to pieces. And no, I'm not using perfect replacement pieces from John's desert cars. I'm using angle stock, scrap sheet metal and cheapo repro floors. A perfect 10 she will never be.
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| Fired up the Desoto and let it run for a while. The last time I ran it, it stalled after a few minutes like it had run out of fuel or had a plugged fuel filter. I changed the filter, but the old one was ok, and it still stalled afterwards. Then I tried to make sure the gas cap was vented, as it seemed someone drilled it out, but something on the inside of the cap was moving and partially blocking the hole. Today it ran fine, so we'll see what happens. Then I brought the clock down from the attic, where its been for a few years, and plugged it in.
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Location: Oconomowoc Wi | I drove it... after sitting in storage for a year and a half, I washed it, and I drove it. Simple pleasures.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7219
Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | This post is also in the "Body, Glass and Interior Trim" thread under "What glue to use for Weatherstrip"
I installed new deck lid weatherstrip, and used the 3-M Weatherstrip Cement as recommended in that other thread but there are two types..... apparently I got the wrong stuff so read on...
OK, So I bought a tube of the 3M Weatherstrip cement this week so I could install my new deck lid weatherstrip. They had two types, black and yellow, same price. The guy told me to buy the yellow as it is "Super Weatherstrip Adhesive" and the black stuff is "Regular" . Well I used it ( the yellow stuff) tonight and it is nothing more than standard Contact Cement. Very difficult to work with but I managed to do it. The thing is I already had a can of Contact Cement in the basement and was looking for something easier to work with that's why I chose the 3-M product mentioned in the other thread. Anyhow to give you an idea of what I did, I removed the old weatherstrip ( which was reproduction that had been installed before I bought the car but was not high enough to seal). I then rotary-wire brushed out the trough to bare metal, sealed with a rust-inhibitor, then primed and repainted the entire rail. Let it sit for three days, then tonight I applied the cement to both the rail and the weatherstrip, as you do with contact cement you have to coat both surfaces. Then I installed it. This new weatherstrip is from Gary Goers and certainly is high enough to seal the deck lid all the way around. It is a new "hollow" weatherstrip instead of the usual "sponge type" that is common for these cars. In fact its a little too high and it takes a good slam to get the lid to shut, even with the latch adjusted all the way up. The deck lid sits a fraction higher than it did before but at least it seals. This is the best sealing weatherstrip I've so far seen that fits the 60-62 full sized cars. I have never had any others from different suppliers that would ever seal correctly on the various 1960-1962 Mopars that I've owned. Anyhow as to the 3-M adhesive, I wish I had tried the black stuff as I am assuming it is NOT Contact Cement. Any one else out there know?
Edited by imopar380 2012-05-16 12:19 AM
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Ian, years ago, I bought some Gary Goers trunk weatherstrip, and it took about a year before the trunk could
be shut normally, but, the seal became like a bank vault tight, as might be expected, after the W/S took its set against the
closed trunk.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7219
Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | d500neil - 2012-05-15 10:00 PM
Ian, years ago, I bought some Gary Goers trunk weatherstrip, and it took about a year before the trunk could
be shut normally, but, the seal became like a bank vault tight, as might be expected, after the W/S took its set against the
closed trunk.
The deck lid weatherstrip for the 57-59 cars is a better fit than the stuff available for the 60-62 cars, until this new one from Gary became available for the 60-62s.
Edited by imopar380 2012-05-16 1:13 AM
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Expert
Posts: 1532
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday night I removed the restored p/s pressure hose and installed a NOS one. The transparent MOPAR bag containing the p/s pressure hose indicated the year 1991. I hope it could handle the pressure... even though these two hoses aren't brand new.
Then I started the engine to check if the connections are good (no leaks) and I used the situation to select all gears in a row. Afterwards I checked the level at the transmission as well while the engine was still running at idle. The stick shows a level about 1/4" above "MIN" level. The ambient temperature was around 50F.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Expert
Posts: 1324
Location: Hickory, NC | Last night I got the driver's rear door on my '60 Fury unstuck. Now all my doors open. The door lock mechanism was frozen just enough to where the door wouldn't open. I moved to the passengers rear door to get the door lock working properly...I got the lock working great, but now the outside door handle wont open the door. So it'll just have to be opened from the inside for now until I investigate it some more.
I then ripped out the remnants of the headliner/rats nest out of the car. Boy that was fun.... |
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Posts: 1318
Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | The dashboard is now in ...
But I realized too late that the windlace had to go in first before putting the dashboard !
Ah well ... I'll find a way.
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13163
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Looks really nice Vincent, keep up the good work and keep us posted! - Oh by the way, are you sleeping in your car now? - well I get on the nerves of my wife sometimes too  |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 907
Location: Magra, Sweden | Got a beautiful NOS grille piece for the right side of my 55 Dodge by mail from Turkey today.
It's already on the car ready for the car show on Sunday. |
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What did you do to your FL car today?
