Automatic Beam-Changer: This Option was not on my Car when purchased. One day I found solely the Original Sensor Module, and I thought: “Why not?”

I designed a Transistor Trigger Circuit, soldered on a Board and mount under the Dashboard for direct access. A Printed Circuit Board (PCB) would have a quarter of Size. To eliminate the often discussed Flashing in Operate Mode, I set a higher Hysteresis (= Difference between ON – OFF Transition) and a longer ON Time-Constant (10 millisec for Beam OFF, +2 sec for Beam ON), as a manual Switching. The preset of the Sensitivity is done by the Trimmer on the Circuit Board (not visible), directing in the Garage a Pocket Lamp to the Beamer Unit to simulate the Light of an oncoming Car. The fine Adjustment when driving by turning the rear Knob on the Sensor Unit.

Now, the Automatic Headlight Control works excellently, but still remains critical in some Light Conditions due to the limited Viewing Angle of the Photo-Cell. Another Optional Equipment, not necessarily needed, but always nice to have. :) 

To know: the Automatic Inside Mirror  -  MirrorMatic uses the same basic circuit, both use the same Vacuum Tube 12k5. A PCB Transistor Circuit would fit in this Housing, or the Tube could simply be substituted by adequate Transistors, directly plug in the Tube Socket (12V Operation).

(1 Ross Roy - Automatic Beam-Changer L.jpg)

(2 DSC03002L Transistor Circuit & Relais.jpg)

(3 DSC02982L Beamer Unit .jpg)

(4 DSC03000L Beamer OverView.jpg)

1 Ross Roy - Automatic Beam-Changer L.jpg (54KB - 653 downloads)

2 DSC03002L Transistor Circuit & Relais.jpg (89KB - 628 downloads)

3 DSC02982L Beamer Unit .jpg (47KB - 651 downloads)

4 DSC03000L Beamer OverView.jpg (81KB - 668 downloads)

Dimmer Switch: Even when not directly visible, this Switch can easy be upgraded just by putting a Rubber Cap (not Plastic, Bore Dia. 22mm x 20), as used for Chairs.

Now, the covered Knob not only looks more discreet and similar to the Windshield Washer Pad, applying the Dimmer Switch feels much more comfortable. Comparing both Pictures it even seems, without the Rubber Cap something is missing. A quite simply improvement for any Oldtimer!

(DSC03036L Rubber Cap.jpg)

(DSC03051L Original Dimmer Switch.jpg)

(DSC03050L Dimmer Switch with Rubber Cap.jpg)

DSC03036L Rubber Cap.jpg (39KB - 629 downloads)

DSC03051L Original Dimmer Switch.jpg (67KB - 660 downloads)

DSC03050L Dimmer Switch with Rubber Cap.jpg (67KB - 655 downloads)

Sun Visors: On a Convertible the Sun Visors have an additional Function. In slightly higher than in horizontal Position they can reduce the Turbulences at open Top, acting as a virtual Extension of the Windshield. Then they are additionally exposed to a displacement.

To tighten a hanging Sun Visor, pull it out (may need some force), put in a parallel vice between two plane planks, protect it as illustrated, then squeeze a little bit in several steps until fixed enough.

Now, the Sun Visors remain in any circumstances at the preset Position.

(DSC03074L Removed Sun Visor.jpg)

(DSC03069L Retense The Sun Visor.jpg)

(DSC03068L Sun Visor Up.jpg)

DSC03074L Removed Sun Visor.jpg (49KB - 632 downloads)

DSC03069L Retense The Sun Visor.jpg (71KB - 634 downloads)

DSC03068L Sun Visor Up.jpg (78KB - 627 downloads)

15” Wheels and Tires: I always found, 14” Wheels on my Car are relatively too small and look poor in Proportion to the Body and its Wheelhouse. Must say, this was the Style at this time.

The other Point, bigger and wider Tires have much better Adhesion on the Street, the 235/70/15 Radial Tires about +25% in Comparison to the Original 14” Diagonal ones. This improvement is necessarily needed for a full Advantage of Disk Brakes. Thus, I decided in favor of 15” Wheels and the corresponding WWW Tires, still keeping the Original 14” Wheel Set including the Spinner Hubcaps. In order to keep the Original Appearance, the Original HubCaps should fit to the 15” Rims.

I bought 15” decorative stainless Rings, cut out the Border around, and soldered it inside the Wheel Cover. For a stronger Fixing on the rechromed Wheels I increased the Clamp Pression by putting a soft round PVC Profile under the Clamps.

Now, the Hubcaps fit perfectly to the 15” Rims, their Edges are even protected from Curbstones due to the inner Position, and the Air Valve is perfectly centered as well. According my personal feeling, this Wheel Size gives the Car its settled Proportions. Another improvement of the Outfit, for the Drivers Security, and as an additional Benefit the Wheel Cover Edge Protection.

(can see, my HubCaps are not perfect, but polished and with the sticked Black they look as)

(Original Wheel and Parking Lamp.jpg)

(1 DSC00001L Coker Tires 235-70-15.jpg)

(2 DSC03078L 15 Inch Decorative Stainless Rings.jpg)

(3 DSC00051L Soldered 15 Inch Ring.jpg)

(4 DSC03081L Inner Border of HubCap.jpg)

(5 DSCN0012L 15 Inch Wheel Assembled.jpg)

Original Wheel and Parking Lamp.jpg (73KB - 651 downloads)

1 DSC00001L Coker Tires 235-70-15.jpg (101KB - 643 downloads)

2 DSC03078L 15 Inch Decorative Stainless Rings.jpg (67KB - 620 downloads)

3 DSC00051L Soldered 15 Inch Ring.jpg (68KB - 592 downloads)

4 DSC03081L Inner Border of HubCap.jpg (89KB - 619 downloads)

5 DSCN0012L 15 Inch Wheel Assembled.jpg (97KB - 617 downloads)

Dome Nuts and Caps: These devices remove optically bad nuts, covers them or even protect them. Dome Nuts in polished stainless steel may appear as small diamonds.

A low-cost "Jewel+ for your car! - SERGE -  :laugh:

(01 Dome Nuts - Caps DSC03156.jpg)

(02 DomeCap DSC03154.jpg)

(03 DomeNuts Connector DSC00632a.jpg)

(04 DomeNuts Induction Coil.jpg)

01 Dome Nuts - Caps DSC03156.jpg (48KB - 630 downloads)

02 DomeCap DSC03154.jpg (53KB - 626 downloads)

03 DomeNuts Connector DSC00632a.jpg (55KB - 610 downloads)

04 DomeNuts Induction Coil.jpg (79KB - 600 downloads)

Plugged Instruments and Speedometer Units: Working on this Units, what ever the brand of the car, was always a mess for not scratching the painted surrounding, interrupt unintentionally a connection, produce accidentally a short-circuit (when battery unplugged) and even to fix them when working. On newer cars the Units can be removed by unplugging many cables. On our FL-cars, except for the lamps, most cables are fixed.

To avoid these problems, before restoring the gauges, I did these Units pluggable by a multiple pin connector. First I replaced all wires by 50cm long, flexible ones at adequate profile and different colors. When tested I assembled them to a common harness, then cut it and inserted a high current, multiple pin connector. For the most important wires (GND and +12V), delivering the main power, I used two pins in parallel, all pins being soldered. On the Instuments Unit the harness-outlet was set behind the headlamp-switch for an easy turn away to the right side (in the pics folded for re-install the unit).

The remaining connections to remove individually are the speedometer cable, the oil pressure hose and the clock adjustment cable. The ammeter loop, with the cable leading from the one wire alternator to the battery, got a separate interconnection (100A). The thinner black cables leeds to the battery-box (Type 1.5V, UM-6) just deposit under the dashboard for the quartzed clock, working non-stop since already 4 years. On the Speedometer Unit, the brown capton-adhesive tape fixes the fine wires for the four green Micro-LEDs set on the glass end face for an additional impressive illumination of the speed numbers (see Pic above in "Directional Flasher").

Now, a stressfree comfortable handling of the Instruments is possible, beside the dashboard or on a working table! – SERGE - ;)  ;) 

Edited by sermey 2009-12-06 11:00 AM

(2009-04-23 DSC03212 Speedometer Unit.jpg)

(2009-04-23 DSC03206 Front Instruments Panel.jpg)

(2009-04-23 DSC03205 Rear Instruments Panel.jpg)

(2009-04-23 DSC03204 View Under Dashboard.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
2009-04-23 DSC03212 Speedometer Unit.jpg (58KB - 582 downloads)
2009-04-23 DSC03206 Front Instruments Panel.jpg (82KB - 594 downloads)
2009-04-23 DSC03205 Rear Instruments Panel.jpg (88KB - 610 downloads)
2009-04-23 DSC03204 View Under Dashboard.jpg (129KB - 616 downloads)

Rechromed Substitute Parts: On the market there are many rechromed parts available as substitutes, additional eye-catchers. Here two samples.

The Generator Bracket. Fits directly. For a nicer look can be shortened for best match, as I did here.

The Oil DipStick with the Tube. I bent the tube according the position I liked. Then, unfortunately the Oil DipStick couldn't be inserted anymore in the tube. Easy trick: Just twist it! :laugh:   - SERGE -

(Rechromed Generator Braket LL.jpg)

(Rechromed Distributor HoldDown LL.jpg)

(Rechromed Oil DipStick LL.jpg)

(Rechromed Oil DipStick Twisted LL.jpg)

(Rechromed DipStick in Tube LL.jpg)

Rechromed Generator Braket LL.jpg (92KB - 605 downloads)

Rechromed Distributor HoldDown LL.jpg (75KB - 614 downloads)

Rechromed Oil DipStick LL.jpg (64KB - 593 downloads)

Rechromed Oil DipStick Twisted LL.jpg (40KB - 608 downloads)

Rechromed DipStick in Tube LL.jpg (97KB - 581 downloads)

Thank you, John. Every one has his own talents. We all have got them for free. The ones uses them more, the others less. I think, most owner of an oldtimer will find and trim his car to a higher level, as soon he has done all needed restorations. Owning just one car is much easier.

The RAL Colors are well defined Color Standards and available on a CD, indicating the RGB (Red-Green-Blue) percents, awell known by  Photoshop-Users. Thus, any RAL Color can be mixed accordingly, and get exactly the same tone.

John, I have done some small stylist modifications, Virgil Exner would even be happy about - but not the purists.

Sorry, Gary, it is never done. The show goes on! A never ending process.  - SERGE -

Constant Voltage Regulator: This is a thermo-mechanical contact breaker, and cannot be repaired (metallic sealed). It's output is a pulsing 12V,  resulting in an average output of 5Volt. This voltage can only be measured with a long-time integrating instrument. A connected 12V instruments bulb will flash correspondingly. The regulator is used to operate both, the fuel level and the temperature gauges.

I found an electronic device for direct replacement and easy mounting. It doesn't need any additional components, produces a constant Voltage of +5.0V within an input range of  9 - 30 Volts. This device is temperature and short circuit protected, therefore cannot be destroyed. Just move the input and output connection of the breaker to the input / output of the electronic device. The output leads to the fuel level and temperature gauges. The ground (-) is already connected by the fixing screw of the original regulator (heat sink!). Thus the center pad (ground) could be cut. The maximum output current of 1.5A is more than double needed by the fuel level and temperature gauges at full readings.

The readings for two Input Voltages of 9 and 18 Volt, and the water temperature gauge loaded for "normal" reading (sensor simulation R = 22 Ohm, see Pic) have been tested. The output of the device shows a constant value of 4.90 Volt. The original voltage regulator can be left there as is, but unconnected, or it can be removed as shown. On the illustrations the device is not connected (demo on a spare instruments panel), best should be soldered.

Another invisible new technology for a better performance and a higher reliability of your car. - SERGE -  :laugh:

To know: I have purchased some additional devices for interested FWLs and can offer them at cost price: USD 5.00/piece plus shipment by letter (PAYPAL sermey@bluewin.ch).

(1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg)

(2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg)

(3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg)

(4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg)

(5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg)

(6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg)

1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg (92KB - 633 downloads)

2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg (64KB - 678 downloads)

3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg (81KB - 664 downloads)

4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg (90KB - 703 downloads)

5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg (80KB - 636 downloads)

6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg (93KB - 648 downloads)

DeSotohead: ..... If you really want to make it look "original", you can mount the 5V regulator on a PC board inside the old regulator housing.

This is a good idea, Hank. Then the integrated circuit can directly be soldered inside on the existing pins. It will need a screw for the heat sink, and on the Dodge, the metallic housing of the regulator is bent all around and must be opened (?).  I don't know if the other Mopars use the same regulator.

This is the same Mopar Regulator. But this one has only two bent edges. The one in my car (see above Pic 5) is bent all around.

The electronic regulator is a similar one, may-be an earlier product. There are many available, from various manufacturers and for different applications. The one I selected is best for our application and, according the datasheet, doesn't need any components at all (internally compensated), and cannot be destroyed (temperature and current protected). This security is a big advantage, thinking the regulator is located behind the instruments panel and not directly accessible.  Not needed, but the output accuracy in respect to the input range as tested is impressive (4.90V). Too precise for cars of the fifties!

John, this is the 22 Ohm resistor (0.3W), simulating the missing temperature sensor. With this value, corresponding to the warm-up engine, the temp gauge shows 60% reading, visible from the other side.This voltage regulator requires no additional electronic device at all. What you see is the rear of a "reserve" instruments panel 1959 Dodge.  - SERGE -

Water Temperature Gauge Sender: Technical aspects about this device have already been discussed on another thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=15&start=1

Here just a small "Make-up": The pin has been modified by applying a thread M3. This allows a nicer and as well a better electrical connection. Then the device and the dome cap (M3) have been polished. Under the Sensor you see a rubber O-ring to hide its remaining thread.

Now, one more "brillant" on this car! - SERGE -

To know: Polished brass should be protected by coating with Zapon-Laquer to prevent oxydations and to keep the shiny aspect. This is advantageous for any polished metallic items. On pictures the polished surfaces often  doesn't look as shiny, due to mirroring of the ambient.

(1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg)

(2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg)

(3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg)

1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg (51KB - 632 downloads)

2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg (102KB - 625 downloads)

3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg (101KB - 632 downloads)

Correct, the 22Ohm Resistor substitutes the sensor. This was technically discussed in the thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=22&start=1

Bullets for Rear View Mirror: A time ago some bullets have been offered in eBay. Even not an original mopar accessory, they went for up nearly USD100 a pair.
With these bullets the mirror looks rather to be complete.

Now I found "Chrome Bullet Heads" used as Tire Valve Caps in eBay, a set of 4pcs for USD 8.99, 5/8"x1 1/4" in metal. Proceedings:

1. Insert a cylindrical plastic plug inside the Bullet (D:7.2mm L 12mm), put-in a long screw (M4) till end, this will be tight and used for fixing. Reduce the bullet in length (from 30.5mm to 23.2mm) to fit the mirrors end diameter; cut the screw for remaining 5mm. The Bullet is ready for mount. 

2. Remove the mirror nut, drill an M4 thread through, put back the Nut -  the mirror is ready for the bullet.

Now, just screw-in the assembled bullet, and your Rear View Mirror now shows the visible face lifting. The mirror bullets can  easy be removed simply by manually unscrewing, to return to the mirrors standard view.  Another gadget for your FWL Car - if you like it.  - SERGE -

(DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg)

(DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg)

(DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg)

(DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg)

(DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg)

DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg (85KB - 678 downloads)

DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg (47KB - 754 downloads)

DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg (56KB - 717 downloads)

DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg (58KB - 712 downloads)

DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg (77KB - 668 downloads)

Door Panel Protection: When assembling the door panel I had to find a way, for not wear the new coating material at the opening of the door handle, when manipulating with.

I took the body of a "Solder Sucking Wick" as used in electronics. This fits exactly in inner and outer diameter, in thickness of the door panel, and as well to the diameter of the handle, as it was designed for this application. Mounted, it doesn't turn at all and doesn't need additional spacers.

Now, no friction at all to the padded coating material when manipulating the door handle - an easy and efficient solution  - SERGE - 

(DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg)

(DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg)

(DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg)

(DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg)

DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg (97KB - 688 downloads)

DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg (86KB - 689 downloads)

DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg (81KB - 697 downloads)

DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg (88KB - 741 downloads)

Emblem on Door Panel: On many previous cars I owned, I liked the variety of the emblems. This is as well with FWL-Cars. But what I was always missing, an emblem on the door panel of the 1959 Dodge Custom Royal..

I purchased gloove box doors of Coronets, where there is an emblem exactly complying to my demands. Now it looks as original, as it was designed for.  Another "Royal"  eye-catcher. - SERGE -  

(DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg)

(DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg)

DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg (76KB - 731 downloads)

DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg (76KB - 713 downloads)

Door Panels: A 3mm, pressed material is used, cut the contour according the door (the lines are not parallel or rectangular!), drill the holes and openings for handle, switches, clamps. Coat all the panel with a premium to be waterproof. Bostitch a protective pad behind the clamps position, then cover all the panel with a soft 3mm padding material as used for upholstery (not foamed rubber!) and fix it with contact spray.

Now comes the vinyl (no glue at all!), just bostitch around on backside and on front under the mouldings, first a few ones, finally all around when adjusted.

The Door Panel is now ready for mount, not seeing the fixing clamps at all. Same nice job for the other panels. - SERGE -

(01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg)

(02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg)

(03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg)

(04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg)

01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg (39KB - 662 downloads)

02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg (60KB - 687 downloads)

03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg (60KB - 706 downloads)

04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg (141KB - 667 downloads)

Swapping the Door Moulding: When I got my car about 15 years ago, the rear and the door mouldings on the right side have been flatted at their common ends. No way to get some parts at this time, I had to restore them so as to be nearly invisible. Since then I found some of these very rare items. They are in stainless steel, doesn't rust or get pits, but as shown, hardly to restore when deformed. A punch by a door of another parked car - and it happened again!

At last, now I interchanged the door moulding and illustrate here how this is easy done when fixed as described earlier in http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=51 , within a few minutes and no need of any special tools:
Push up the moulding and keep it back, push down and remove it. Due to the many riveted clamps pressing the moulding to the door, there are no gaps at all along. Finally the moulding can be fine adjusted by moving in height and side position. To replace the long rear moulding, the rear bumper has to be removed.

This is fast servicing as is usual in todays cars.  - SERGE - 

(1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg)

(2 - Push up and back.jpg)

(3 - Push down and removal.jpg)

(4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg)

(5 - No Gaps at all.jpg)

(6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg)

1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg (40KB - 616 downloads)

2 - Push up and back.jpg (56KB - 678 downloads)

3 - Push down and removal.jpg (62KB - 642 downloads)

4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg (46KB - 629 downloads)

5 - No Gaps at all.jpg (37KB - 614 downloads)

6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg (66KB - 621 downloads)

Rear Power Windows Motor: The motor is just mounted on the removable panel with two screws. The big manual gear is turned so as to cover all the moving range of the windows lift. The position of the windows motor must be matched to the gear / theeth for the transmission. So, nearly any windows motor can be used. The wires goes under the sill plate.

Easy for servicing or changing - and it works.  - SERGE -

-

(1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg)

(2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg)

1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg (103KB - 606 downloads)

2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg (69KB - 642 downloads)

Dual Oval Exhaust Tips: Long time I had the feeling, my Dual Round Exhaust Tips, as described earlier here, are too small for this big car.

Looking around I found Stainless Oval Tips AMG Style 350 x 85 x 58 mm, slanted. The lenght fits exactly up to the exhausts suspension. They can be mounted without seeing
any screws, thus looks as original tubes. Furthermore, due to the distance of the oval shape to the inner round tube, the tips will not get any heat tinting. They have only to be cut-out to fit the mounting brackets.
When assembled, inserted and adjusted to the correct position, just tighten the two screws - that's all. Same inverse procedure for easy removing.

Now my Dodge looks more powerful and sporty - a low cost visual power boost!   :)

(1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg)

(2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg)

(3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg)

(4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg)

(5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg)

(6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg)

(7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg)

(8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg)

(9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg)

(10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg)

1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg (90KB - 652 downloads)

2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg (65KB - 633 downloads)

3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg (133KB - 652 downloads)

4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg (96KB - 623 downloads)

5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg (46KB - 628 downloads)

6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg (59KB - 631 downloads)

7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg (63KB - 639 downloads)

8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg (73KB - 613 downloads)

9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg (82KB - 634 downloads)

10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg (81KB - 636 downloads)

Buzzer on Flasher: In addition to the earlier subject "Directional Flasher" in this thread here pictures of the final Flasher-Buzzer Unit as glued , connected and fixed with a clamp behind the radio (view from bottom). The buzzer is damped for lower alert with masking tape. 

Today I won't miss this option in my Convertible at all.  - SERGE -

(1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg)

(2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg)

1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg (103KB - 651 downloads)

2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg (86KB - 650 downloads)