Power Lock: This is another Feature, as the Power Window Lifts, I won’t miss in my ’59 Dodge.

There are various Kits available with all needed items, including the wiring Harness. I saw even Kits including a Remote Control. What you see is a four Door Kit. The Single Units are mounted inside the Door, under the Door Lock, very easy to install. The only Handicap when there is no wiring at all to the Doors. A high flexible, floating Connection.near the lower Door Hinge helps. Thinking ahead I had already provided many supplement Cables when wiring the Power Window Lifts (for Loudspeakers, Power Lock and various Control / Switch Units when required).

This Power Lock Option is not visible at all and doesn’t need any exterior Switch. All Doors unlock when the Car is being opened by the Key from Outside, or by the Inside Door Handle (Up). They lock when closing correspondingly. Thus, the Power Locks can be activated from outside at open Windows too by moving the Inside Door Handles up or down.

To Know: In this Configuration all Doors have the same State, closed or opened. When disconnecting the Battery and then reconnect, for security reasons, all Locks are turned to the Closed State.

Now, not a visible Improvement, but no Problems anymore with a closed Door on the other Side. And it works!

(Sorry here again, could not take Pictures from inside)

(Power Lock Kit .jpg)

Power Lock Kit .jpg (84KB - 695 downloads)

Emblem Studs: In Pot Metal they are damageable when mounting the Emblem using the Self Tapping Nuts another time..And what a Frustration when a Stud go broken! To prevent this I tapped Screw Threadings on any Emblem. Further more it's a smoother feeling to tighten softly.

Sample shown on the Chevron Emblem.

To know: Side Emblems are mostly in Duals as LH and RH. Some of them can be mounted at any Side, when drilling additional Holes. Finding later a NOS Rechromed Chevron, I drilled the additional Holes. Now there are to LH Emblems, not visible at all. Applying this way all 1959 Rear Lamps are interchangeable as well.

(DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg)

(DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg)

(DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg)

(DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg)

(DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg)

DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg (71KB - 699 downloads)

DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg (75KB - 671 downloads)

DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg (17KB - 696 downloads)

DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg (73KB - 692 downloads)

DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg (66KB - 655 downloads)

Moulding Clips: As the self-tapping Screws, these items had been designed for a fast Manufacturing, and are not suitable for an outstanding Car. They damage the Paint (as the self tapping Screws), go rusty and don’t tighten the Moulding sufficiently (rattling). The rust is programmed, the Mouldings are loosely and thus not close to the Body. And there should be no Gap at all!

I found stainless / rustfree and springy Clips in various Sizes being used to fix Aluminium Covering Profiles. Adding a Screw, attached by soldering (tin), this was the ideal Solution.

Now, these are not Clips anymore, but rather Clamps. Inside comes first the Grommet for sealing, then the Washer, and finally the Wing Screw, as well known from the Dual Rear Antenna, for easy fixing by Hand without any Tool. Of course all in stainless / rustfree Metal.

By cutting the Sides, they can be fitted to match the Width of any Moulding in the Range, even when the Clips are asymmetric, see “Replacement Sample”. For the Wide Door Mouldings I used two opposed Clips, every 3”, enabling to mount the Moulding from Outside: Down hook in -> push up, and then Up hook in -> push down = Fixed, and adjustable Left < > Right, as Up < > Down due to the Spring Property. They can perfectly be aligned each to other and at any time (see earlier Pictures of the Car)

This new Clip is to be tightened till to the Body in benefit to its curved shape and springy Attribute.

No loosy Mouldings anymore, no Gaps at all, and last but not least: A very pleasant Assembling.

(DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg)

(DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg)

(DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg)

(DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg)

(DSC02488L Application.jpg)

(DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg)

(DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg)

(Riveting Double Clips L.jpg)

(DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg)

DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg (74KB - 673 downloads)

DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg (43KB - 672 downloads)

DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg (52KB - 681 downloads)

DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg (57KB - 676 downloads)

DSC02488L Application.jpg (50KB - 676 downloads)

DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg (44KB - 660 downloads)

DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg (46KB - 667 downloads)

Riveting Double Clips L.jpg (30KB - 685 downloads)

DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg (31KB - 666 downloads)

Paunched Sides: All Cars at this time had more or less paunched Sides, best visible from behind along the Car. The Side Mouldings then becomes curved too. A Correction by heating would make it even worse. I tried a mechanical Solution to reduce these Paunches.

In about the Length of the Side Mouldings and under the same Position I mounted Inside a strong Steel U-Profile (W25-H12-D4.5mm). This Dimensions fitted just well behind the Rear Wheelhouse. As expected I didn’t got a straight Line, the max. Curve Retraction was about ¾ “. The Body has become very stiff and highly resistant to Stress.

Paunch reduced - but Weight increased! This is not a Make-Up, rather a Cosmetic Surgery.

(DSC02459L Profile View Inside Rear Quarter.jpg)

(DSC00221L Rear Side View.jpg)

DSC02459L Profile View Inside Rear Quarter.jpg (87KB - 730 downloads)

DSC00221L Rear Side View.jpg (70KB - 658 downloads)

Dome Light: A visual Gadget is the “Longer Light” Feature. A two Port Electric Box is connected directly to the Dome Light Switch and to Ground, being hidden behind the lower inside Panel, near the Loudspeaker (Pic). For easy Connection remove the Switch and pull the Wires through.

To know: This item can as well be connected directly to the Dome Light and the Box hidden behind the Side Panel (Convertible). Attention: Attach to the floating Ground Wire of the Lamp (has 0V when the Lamp is ON) and not to the +12V!!!

Now, closing the Doors the Dome Lights fade out after about 30 Seconds.

(DSC02514L Dome Light Switch.jpg)

(DSC02515L Dome Light Fading Out.jpg)

DSC02514L Dome Light Switch.jpg (132KB - 664 downloads)

DSC02515L Dome Light Fading Out.jpg (46KB - 686 downloads)

Trunk Lid: The Problem of the “Half-masted Trunks..” (2006-10-16 /d500neil) has already been discussed. There I showed my Solution using two Gas-Springs, on the left and the right side, needing only two Holes to fix them. The Data and Dimensions are given there.

I have already replaced them by the next stronger ones, when I covered the Trunk Lid with the same black Parket as for the Interior. Then the Trunk Lid became heavier, I had simply to replace the Gas-Springs by the next stronger ones. Just take out the Split Pin at the upper and at the lower End, then the Spring Unit can be removed and replaced by another one. This may be important when starting with too weak ones for an exchange where purchased! (the silver Screws fixing the Parket disappear when covered by black Plastic Caps, if prefered)

Now, the Trunk Lid when DOWN remain slightly opened (Trunk Light OFF), or stands UP again as before and in younger Years!

(DSC02497L Gas-Springs Lenght 275.jpg)

(DSC02516L Snap-On Gas-Spring.jpg)

(DSC02495L Front View.jpg)

(DSC02496L View Other Side.jpg)

(DSC02522L Interior-Parket on Trunk Lid.jpg)

DSC02497L Gas-Springs Lenght 275.jpg (52KB - 658 downloads)

DSC02516L Snap-On Gas-Spring.jpg (41KB - 651 downloads)

DSC02495L Front View.jpg (45KB - 624 downloads)

DSC02496L View Other Side.jpg (87KB - 660 downloads)

DSC02522L Interior-Parket on Trunk Lid.jpg (82KB - 639 downloads)

Door Weather-Strips: This items on the Car are exposed and visible to anybody, often mounted inaccurately. This stands out on the spot when they are not inline to the opened Window. Usually they are clinched on the Door, not permitting any fine Alignment afterwards.

This can be achieved by using Special Screws, flat as Rivets. I found black burned-in Low Profile Pan-Head Screws. Head Height 1.6mm (see on Pic the upper Screw), Diameter 7.8mm, Metric M4x10mm. The Diameter allows a mounting Hole in the Weather-Strips up to 5.5mm for an Alignment Range of over 2mm in any Direction, the low Height make it impossible to touch the Window, and the black Head disappears in the black Strip. 

Easiest is to use a Manual Hole Puncher for the Strips. First punch 4mm, then more Punches around in order to get the Hole bigger towards the best Position to the Door. Can have more Fixing Points as had before, but should cut at first all Threads in the Door. Now, as well simple and fast to replace them, this when the Strip is wrongly bent at the Ends or too much curved for straightening. (see Alignments of Door Weather-Strips above in Pics “Power Windows Lift”).

Another visible Precision Work on your Car!

(DSC02531L Low Profile Pan-Head Screws.jpg)

(DSC02532L Manual Hole Puncher.jpg)

DSC02531L Low Profile Pan-Head Screws.jpg (66KB - 680 downloads)

DSC02532L Manual Hole Puncher.jpg (40KB - 605 downloads)

Slanted Rear Seats: As far I could see, all earlier Convertibles have steeper Rear Seats than the Front Seats. This is uncomfortable to sit and furthermore this looks not inviting. The Front Seats are already steeper then today Cars, the Angle to the sitting Surface cannot be adapted for best feeling, nor with the 6-Way Power Seats Option. With it the entire Seat is rotated front- or backwards.

First I modified the Hinges of the Front Seat for a wider Sitting Angle. Then I moved the Cross Bar of the Rear Back Seat about 2” backward. In the Pics the fomer Original Position is still visible. In Consequence the Rear Seat Mount had moved up, the Bolt is now in an other Position and the Side Panels have been extended accordingly. The needed, interrelated Modifications at the Mechanics of the Convertible Top is reported later. (when you brighten the first Pic you will discover the Steel Profile and the Power Antenna Unit)

Now, a Comfortable Sitting and more Space too for the Rear Passengers, furthermore nice Parallel Back Seats, as well known from 4-Door Cars. All around happy Passengers: Let's lean back and ride.

(DSC00058L Overview Behind Rear Back Seat.jpg)

(DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Cross Bar .jpg)

(DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Mount.jpg)

(DSC00051L All Slanted Parallel Back Seats.jpg)

DSC00058L Overview Behind Rear Back Seat.jpg (100KB - 649 downloads)

DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Cross Bar .jpg (47KB - 674 downloads)

DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Mount.jpg (85KB - 663 downloads)

DSC00051L All Slanted Parallel Back Seats.jpg (105KB - 627 downloads)

Drumming Noise: I like Low Noise Cars, can listen to the Music, talk with the Passengers and hear the Birds when driving. In the 50thies they didn’t care about Noise as today.

I found flexible, self-adhesive Panels (50x40x3mm, 5Kg/m2) especially designed to reduce Vibrations, Resonances and this Drumming Noise. Setting them flush one with the other the Surface is waterproof. Except the Engine Compartment, I applied these Panels on any reachable Inside Surfaces: All the Interior, Inside the Doors, over the Rear Axle, on the Rear Wheel Houses, on the Rear Quarters (as already seen in “Paunched Body”), and Inside the Trunk, using total about 5m2 / 25kg. Then comes the black Interior Carpet above all, and finally the Mats tailored as the Originals. (the bright Flash makes the Panels appear in brown)

Now, not only the Drumming Noise is considerably attenuated, but the Doors sound discreet when closing, the covered Ground Surface has a new Look, and driving creates a compact Feeling as in a today Luxury Car. Can say: "Forward (Look) to the Presence!"

Knocking on the Car: "Is it Wood or is it Sheet Metal?". No audible Differences. This is not a “Make-Up” for the Vision, but for the Sense of Hearing.

(DSC02641L Covered Rear Wheel House.jpg)

(DSC02642L Four Panels Meet in Trunk.jpg)

DSC02641L Covered Rear Wheel House.jpg (117KB - 666 downloads)

DSC02642L Four Panels Meet in Trunk.jpg (88KB - 660 downloads)

Car Protection: An Oldtimer is usually at nicest when the restoration has completed. From now it starts to waste. It should be protected where parked for longer periods, even in a Single Garage.

There are many better and more solid Car Covers as the one I use. For Inside Purpose the Cover should absorb sand and dust on both sides, hence no scratches when moving it or hook on the Car; then be partially removable without the need of inter fold, and washable.

I found the “Auto-Pyjama”, 100% Cotton and fitting exactly to the Dodge. Cotton in best for polishing, thus the car will rather be polished than scratched when covering, or rubbing the edges.

The ’59 Dodge Custom Royal has particularly critical Chrome Edges: the Front Eye-Brows and the Rear Fins. When not covered I protect them by coating with an static-adhesive thin Transparent Foil, well known as used in the Kitchen for Foods. Recommended on long Trips at high Speed too, preventing the Eye-Brows to go sandblasted, as happens to the Windshield. This Foil is as well useful for packaging Spare Parts: they are protected and cognizable, no adhesive Tape needed.

(DSC02644L Dust Protected Car.jpg)

(DSC02648L Discovered Right Rear.jpg)

(DSC02655L Shiny Unprotected Eye-Brow.jpg)

(DSC02668L Foil Protected Eye-Brow.jpg)

(DSC02666L Foil Packaged Spare Parts.jpg)

DSC02644L Dust Protected Car.jpg (42KB - 661 downloads)

DSC02648L Discovered Right Rear.jpg (59KB - 694 downloads)

DSC02655L Shiny Unprotected Eye-Brow.jpg (75KB - 672 downloads)

DSC02668L Foil Protected Eye-Brow.jpg (72KB - 664 downloads)

DSC02666L Foil Packaged Spare Parts.jpg (55KB - 665 downloads)

Thank you Swen. You said correctly as is the rule: "The hard-core OEM guys wont change a thing on their cars".

Most "improvements" can easily be restored to its Original, even at the place. Others are not visible at all, many are for the personal comfort and security.  But I agree with them: at a glance the Car should show up as Original - and it does when required.

On the other side: "The (Car-) Show must go on!" - SERGE -

Rear Lamps: The Sockets got stainless / rustfree Bolts (M5) fixed by a counter-nut. The assembled Unit is mounted with Wing Nuts (no Tools required). The Lenses got rustfree Thread Screws (M4) too, the Self-Cutting Screws could brake the Lenses locally. As Gasket I used Rubber Sealing O-Rings, leading outside the two Mounting Screws.Two diametric notches have to be grinded as illustrated (Ring: external Diameter 85mm, Thickness 5mm). So, the O-Rings fit and seal as Originals.

I was always fascinated by the broad Rear Lamps on American Cars. As Youngster I could guess the Cars Make at Night, just by their Rear Lights. On my American Cars I wanted more: a Bright Red Glow. I painted the Reflectors from Silver to White, dispersed the Bulbs Light over the Surface of the Lenses, and removed the bright Spot of the Bulbs by a Sticker. On the ‘59 Dodge I wanted a similar Glow Effect.

First I convert the two Back Lights into Stop/Directional Lights by changing the Lenses and the Wiring accordingly. The Back Lights, anyway at the wrong Place for a useable Light, I moved under the Rear Bumpers, in mounting two adjustable, contemporary Chrome Lamps. These Back Lamps gives a wide white Light where needed to see at Night when parking. Beside the Exhaust Outlets I find their aspect nice and discreet (see earlier Pics).

To reduce the Spot Effect of the Bulbs I clamped a Light Dispersing Foil inside on the Lenses Surface (Folder available in any Office Shop).

Now, the Red Light got a Glowing Effect, another Eye-Catcher at the Night Cruise.

Hint: For a homogenous Red Light the Lenses should be from the same Production Batch.

(DSC02693lL Rear Lamp Unit.jpg)

(DSC02691L Zoomed View.jpg)

(DSC02684L Rear Lamp Trunk View.jpg)

(DSC02703L Notched Seal O-Ring.jpg)

(DSC02707L Dispersion of the Spot.jpg)

(DSC02673L Rear Glow.jpg)

(DSC02677L Zoomed Rear Glow.jpg)

(DSC00023L Bright Stop Light.jpg)

DSC02693lL Rear Lamp Unit.jpg (66KB - 675 downloads)

DSC02691L Zoomed View.jpg (68KB - 675 downloads)

DSC02684L Rear Lamp Trunk View.jpg (123KB - 645 downloads)

DSC02703L Notched Seal O-Ring.jpg (66KB - 641 downloads)

DSC02707L Dispersion of the Spot.jpg (43KB - 652 downloads)

DSC02673L Rear Glow.jpg (65KB - 650 downloads)

DSC02677L Zoomed Rear Glow.jpg (70KB - 664 downloads)

DSC00023L Bright Stop Light.jpg (89KB - 659 downloads)

About Dim: This is comparable to an opaque and a transparent Home Bulb, both 25W or 40W. Must check for the best Foil, there are various thickness and surfaces.

Attaching: Inside the Lenses the reinforcement for the two screws goes all along. There need two Foils, on one side and on the other side, round bent and just clamped in between. Cut the first “on the job” to lie against the Lenses Inside Surface, then copy all others. On the Back nothing, no considerable improvement. Can put a small white Sticker on Top of the Bulb to remove the bright Spots, see Pic: Bright Stop Lamp. Sorry, could not remove the Lenses for shootings -> fixed and risk to brake.

Car Height: Lifting or lowering a Car, there are many Opinions and Preferences. It depends on the Car too, and how the Design with the Side Mouldings already influences the Aspect.

On the ‘59 Dodge I found best to be about  flat, but never lower on the Rear. Thus, I set the Rear to be 3cm Higher than the Front (as all previous Pics), measured on the Side Moulding, Front at their End and Rear over the Wheel. The lowest Front Height was given by the Tires (235/70/15) just not touching the Wheel House when the Steering is fully turned to one Side. With the Air-Controlled Shock Absorbers I could lift the Car to the desired Rear Height. The Air Valve for the setting is intended to be mounted beside the Fuel Port, I left it in the Trunk near the Antenna.

For your own Consideration: I have lifted my Car on the Computer - other Prospects!

(DSC02710L Adjustable Shock Absorber.jpg)

(DSC02728L Air Valve.jpg)

(DSC00044L Rear 3cm Lifted.jpg)

(DSC00044L All Lifted.jpg)

(DSC00044L All Lowered .jpg)

(DSC00044L Rear Lowered.jpg)

(DSC00044L Rear Lifted.jpg)

DSC02710L Adjustable Shock Absorber.jpg (56KB - 671 downloads)

DSC02728L Air Valve.jpg (41KB - 637 downloads)

DSC00044L Rear 3cm Lifted.jpg (70KB - 632 downloads)

DSC00044L All Lifted.jpg (71KB - 674 downloads)

DSC00044L All Lowered .jpg (67KB - 685 downloads)

DSC00044L Rear Lowered.jpg (69KB - 702 downloads)

DSC00044L Rear Lifted.jpg (71KB - 648 downloads)

Removing Pits: When I purchased my Dodge the Pot Metal Parts have been rechromed over the Pits. Fortunately I could interchange all these Parts to a non restored Coronet. The owner was happy to get for free newly rechromed Parts, I too to have the Originals.

When removing Pits it is important that the Geometry remains waveless and as Original. If not, any unevenness will be visible when mirroring. I wanted all my Chrome Parts to be “mirror-proof” and flawless.

I don’t know how others remove Pits, so I did it my way. But first all the Chrome and the Nickel on the items had to be removed (galvanic).

1a Punching with Peening Tool: Take an adjustable Point Puncher and round the Point (3mm). On the Rear Side of the Pit to be removed mark a black Spot (Permanent Marker). Hold the item flat on a hard Wood Surface and punch on the Mark until the Pit has disappeared. Adjust the Puncher Force for at least 5 Punches needed. When the other Side has buckled out about 0.1-0.2mm, the Surface can be leveled by using an ultra fine Rasp (no Abrasives). Then polish, but only when the Geometry is corrected.

1b Spinning with Crusher: This modified Tool is intended for Pits not accessible with the Peening Tool, as some Surfaces under the Eye-Brows. The Rounding and the Height of the interchangeable Steel Nails can be changed as needed. Leveling and polishing as described.

2a Filling with Tin: Chrome and Nickel already removed, let apply a strong Copper Plating. Then put the item on the Cooker (kitchen), adjust the Thermostat to be about 140 Degree, and now with an Electric Tin Solder heath locally until melting, applying flux and tin (0.3mm /180deg, as used for micro electronics) just as much as needed to fill the Pit. Then remove the Solder instantly and go to the next Pit. When all is done, level the Surface as described, and copper-plate for the Finish.

2b Filling with Paste: As in 2a, the Surface needs a Replating with Copper to be cleaned in the Pits. Then, instead of Tin,  fill the Pits with a electrical conductive Paste (3M), similar as used for rechroming Plastics  and proceed as decribed.

Microscopic best I found the first three Methods when possible, because of the all Metallic Transition. In some cases a Combination of them is needed.

Once started and experienced with, it worked better than imagined. The final Brilliance of the item, when Nickel and Chrome plated, is given by the polishing of the last Copper Plating. This is most important Section for a brillant track-free Chrome. For that reason I have polished myself all Parts. For the Rear Lamp Sockets I did an Adapter to mount them on the Drilling Machine for grinding out thes many Pits. These maNot having Internet and eBay at this time I could not buy NOS Parts. Even these Parts are mostly minor pittet and have to be restored. Anyway, a good and friendly Relationship with the Galvanic Man is required.

The Chrome Parts on the Pics above show how the Geometry is restored to its Original, a flat undistorted mirroring surface all around!

(DSC02738L Adjustable Punch Markers.jpg)

(DSC02734L Pointed & Rounded.jpg)

(DSC02743L Modified Crusher.jpg)

(DSC02742L Inserts Roofing Nails.jpg)

(Rear Emblem L.jpg)

(Side Moulding L.jpg)

(Rear Lamp Sockets L.jpg)

DSC02738L Adjustable Punch Markers.jpg (51KB - 664 downloads)

DSC02734L Pointed & Rounded.jpg (52KB - 621 downloads)

DSC02743L Modified Crusher.jpg (34KB - 679 downloads)

DSC02742L Inserts Roofing Nails.jpg (49KB - 665 downloads)

Rear Emblem L.jpg (61KB - 642 downloads)

Side Moulding L.jpg (81KB - 647 downloads)

Rear Lamp Sockets L.jpg (81KB - 658 downloads)

Directional Flasher: It had happened to me some times, driving in my Topless Convertible to the Highway, and the activated Directional Flasher not turned off. Because of the bright Sunlight I neither could see the Green Flashing Lamps on the Instruments Panel, nor could hear the Flasher switching under the Dashboard due to the Streets Noise.

1. I connected a Miniature Buzzer (+12V) to the Input Port (red) and Output Port (blue) of the Directional Flasher. This Flasher Output leads to the Directional Switch on the Steering Wheel, and then to the corresponding Lamps, left or right. The Buzzer will sound anytime when the Flasher Switch is open and the Directional Switch ON, means in opposite Cycle as the Lamps.

When an electronic Flasher Unit (not a bi-metal) in used, then connect the Buzzer to the Output Port of the Flasher (red) and to the Ground (blue). 

2. The Buzzer can directly be attached to both Wires leading to the Directional Lamps too. Because it is a DC (Direct Current) Device, a Full Wave Rectifier (50V/200mA or higher)) must be pre-connected. It turns the Supply Voltage in any Direction to the correct Polarity. Even when there is one commun Bulb for Directional and Brake, as most Cars had at this time, the Buzzer will sound only when only one Side is ON. Thus when braking there is no Voltage across the two Wires of the ON Lamps, and of course no buzzing.

The Loudness is adjusted acoustically by wrapping something around the Buzzer and / or by hiding it under the Dashboard. To know: the bi-metal Flasher is short-circuit at no Current.

Now, the Buzzer produces a well-known intermitting alert, audible even in noisy ambient, no need to check the Instruments Panel, a relaxed Concentration on the Traffic.

(DSC02784L Rectifier & Buzzer.jpg)

(DSC02785L Wiring Diagram.jpg)

(DSC02747L Left Directional Light ON.jpg)

DSC02784L Rectifier & Buzzer.jpg (58KB - 707 downloads)

DSC02785L Wiring Diagram.jpg (68KB - 691 downloads)

DSC02747L Left Directional Light ON.jpg (63KB - 705 downloads)

Rear Center Brake Light: The new four glowing Rear Lamps instead originally two of them I still found insufficient for a Show-Effect, namely at Night. The next way was to add a Center Brake Light. The demands on this Feature, should:

- match to the body in Size and Color as designed for

- be easy to remove at anytime and at the place

- not leave any Marks when taken off

- show an intense Red Light in the same shade as the other Rear Lamps.

Among many offered Kits I selected the best matching one.I lowered the Lamp Unit by removing the bottoms Body, attached two springy mounting Brackets in thin Stainless Steel inside connected to the Minus of the Bulbs, and then painted the Body in the Cars Color.

The Lamp Unit is fixed by two Screws for the Tops Cover. The springy Pression of the Brackets hold it tight on the Cars Surface. Pushing by side the Center Chrome Coupling of the Mouldings there is access to the single wire leading to the Rear Brake Lamp, as Power Supply. To know: When there is a combined Lamp for Directional and Brake, as most Car had at this time, then the Supply should be branched directly to the Brake Light Switch.

Now, all initial demands could be completed. This additional Feature is another attractive Eye-Catcher and improves the Cars Show-Effect by an exciting Red Glow when braking. Another item instantly removable to its Original!

(my Digital Camera doesn’t like this high Contrast Bright Red!)

(DSC02803L Brake Light Unit Top View.jpg)

(DSC02799L Brake Light Unit Rear View.jpg)

(DSC02804L Brake Light Unit Ready for Mount.jpg)

(DSC02794L Brake Light Unit Connected.jpg)

(DSC02788 Brake Light Unit Mounted.jpg)

(DSC02786L Center Brake Light ON.jpg)

(DSC00001L Brake Lamps Side View.jpg)

(DSC00007L Night Lights.jpg)

DSC02803L Brake Light Unit Top View.jpg (28KB - 666 downloads)

DSC02799L Brake Light Unit Rear View.jpg (62KB - 715 downloads)

DSC02804L Brake Light Unit Ready for Mount.jpg (38KB - 707 downloads)

DSC02794L Brake Light Unit Connected.jpg (54KB - 689 downloads)

DSC02788 Brake Light Unit Mounted.jpg (33KB - 715 downloads)

DSC02786L Center Brake Light ON.jpg (45KB - 678 downloads)

DSC00001L Brake Lamps Side View.jpg (79KB - 675 downloads)

DSC00007L Night Lights.jpg (71KB - 678 downloads)

Tag Plate: On a nice Car the License Plate should be as nice, for most people look at this. The Expert however is interested in the Tag Plate. This Plate is as the Birth Certificate of the Car, an important integral Part and merits to be cared. What a Problem when this Plate is missing, I just read in another Thread!

When restoring a Car, many paint over the Tag Plate. Made in Aluminum, a polishing gives an additional decorative Character. It can be anodized in any Colors as illustrated. This Golden would better match to another Paint. (the lower Shadow is the Hood Reflection). For a fix mount I used Aluminum Rivets instead of Screws, polished too. Small effort, nice Effect.

Now, at the first glance the Expert will get an excellent Impression of the Car, the next Look at the Tag Plate he will be positively surprised!!

(DSC02817L Tag Plate.jpg)

(DSC01376L Polished Tag Plate.jpg)

(DSC01376L Anodized Tag Plate.jpg)

DSC02817L Tag Plate.jpg (48KB - 683 downloads)

DSC01376L Polished Tag Plate.jpg (46KB - 684 downloads)

DSC01376L Anodized Tag Plate.jpg (59KB - 667 downloads)

Hood Isolation: Many Hoods comes with poor or even with no Isolation at all. Knocking on the Hood is an acoustical Check how the Hood is isolated. Isolation means damping of Drumming due to Vibrations and Motor Noise, but will isolate from Heath too.

I put an Isolation of a today Car, usually made in one piece, for they are heath resistant and attenuate the Noise considerably. To keep the Design of the Under Hood the Isolation is cut in Segments to fit in and then glue them on. Take your attention to the upper Rubber Strip. This prevents hot Air Circulation from the Engine Compartment turning back to the Cooler when the Car stands idling. (the white shadows are sunshine reflections of the Air Cleaner and others)

Must see and hear the Difference!

(DSC00069L Hood Isolation.jpg)

DSC00069L Hood Isolation.jpg (109KB - 684 downloads)

Radiator Cap: Many small polished items enhance the Status of a Car. Here some visible Distinctions more. Just to see.

(DSC00079L Polished Radiator &-Steering Pump Cap.jpg)

DSC00079L Polished Radiator &-Steering Pump Cap.jpg (86KB - 698 downloads)

Convertible Top: A white Top is nice for any Bodys Color – except for white. Because Top and Body in white never match exactly, one will always appear as dirty. Thus, I switched to a black Top, matching best to my black/white Interior.

Due to the slanted Rear Back Seats I had to do minor Modifications on the Tops Mechanic. Simultaneously I lowered it for Top DOWN Position, to reduce the old fashioned “carriage” Look. By modifying the arms in shape, length and crops, the Mechanics went considerably lower, resulting only +1.5cm to the Height of the Body Sides with mounted Top (see earlier Pics of the Car too). As the Picture shows, now there is just enough room for the Top behind the slanted Rear Back Seats.

Modified, complementary croped Arms for lowering the Mechanics are illustrated. The left and the right side Arms must have identical mirrored shape. To protect the Top, all Edges of the Main Arms are rounded (for the finish use abrasive paper at Top UP). Customized Stainless Screws and Nylon Bushings with borders (to put between the Arms) assure a frictionless, inaudible and smooth Operation, no needing oil lubrication. Another functional and visible improvement!

To know: Important for lowest Top DOWN and minor Wrinkles is a carefully correct folding. This needs about 2 – 3 Steps. The Vinyl Window I left always closed at Top DOWN. Without Top and the Cylinders disconnected, the Mechanics should be moved easily up and down by hand. The Top DOWN Height then is lower than the Body Sides.

(DSC02856L Modified Top Screws and Bushings.jpg)

(DSC02849L Modified Croped Arm.jpg)

(DSC02936L Other Side Main Arm Crop.jpg)

(DSC02851L Top Lifted.jpg)

(DSC02825L Top DOWN Folded.jpg)

(DSC02828L Top full DOWN in Side Panel.jpg)

(DSC00082L Lowered Top Covered.jpg)

(DSC00096L Top Up Back View.jpg)

(DSC00094L Top UP.jpg)

DSC02856L Modified Top Screws and Bushings.jpg (63KB - 689 downloads)

DSC02849L Modified Croped Arm.jpg (66KB - 636 downloads)

DSC02936L Other Side Main Arm Crop.jpg (72KB - 635 downloads)

DSC02851L Top Lifted.jpg (64KB - 668 downloads)

DSC02825L Top DOWN Folded.jpg (89KB - 674 downloads)

DSC02828L Top full DOWN in Side Panel.jpg (82KB - 666 downloads)

DSC00082L Lowered Top Covered.jpg (54KB - 653 downloads)

DSC00096L Top Up Back View.jpg (96KB - 675 downloads)

DSC00094L Top UP.jpg (86KB - 671 downloads)

Fuse Box: When I switched from the Generator (30A) to an Alternator (60A) it was obvious to install two new Fuse Boxes. I went sick to search the hidden Fuses under the Dashboard for a replacement, not seeing anything. Then I changed the Wires to double Diameter. The new Fuse Boxes use Color encoded Fuses, easy to remove with the special Tool. I mounted them on the left front Wheelhouse for direct access, first both on a metal bar, then this unit with two longer screws from center to the body, as can see on the last Pic. All "fused" cables leading underneath invisible to the thick Wire Channel, then to the Instruments Panel. The transparent Covers with Rubber Seals make them water proof and allow an instant visual Check of the Fuses.

The One-Wire Alternator allow a simple wiring: from the Alternator to the First Fuse Box, then leading the wire (yellow) through the Ampere Gauge in the Instruments Panel, then back (red) to the Second Fuse Box, and finally ending at the Battery (+). The First Box supplies all items needed to be measured, the second one the momentary High Current items directly from the Battery, not measured such as Starter, Power Windows, Convertible Top, needing Fuse Values up to 40A. The new Voltage Regulator is still there but not connected.

Now, at a "Black-Out" by a defective Fuse: just lift the Hood, look at the Fuses and replace the defective one!

(DSC02890L One Wire Alternator.jpg)

(DSC02967L Wiring Diagram.jpg)

(DSC02963L Tool & Color Coded Fuses.jpg)

(DSC02966L Rubber Sealed Fuse Box Covers.jpg)

(DSC02959L Opened Fuse Boxes.jpg)

DSC02890L One Wire Alternator.jpg (82KB - 622 downloads)

DSC02967L Wiring Diagram.jpg (49KB - 626 downloads)

DSC02963L Tool & Color Coded Fuses.jpg (56KB - 672 downloads)

DSC02966L Rubber Sealed Fuse Box Covers.jpg (61KB - 604 downloads)

DSC02959L Opened Fuse Boxes.jpg (81KB - 648 downloads)

1959 Dodge HubCaps Paint: As the ConvertibleTop I got the HubCaps in white Color. White painted HubCaps are nice for any Bodys Color – except for white. Because HubCaps as the Convertible Top white never match exactly, one will always appear as dirty. Thus, I switched to black HubCaps, matching best to my black/white Interior.

First I removed the old outworn Paint by a solvent. Then I polished all the HubCaps Surface for a new look. Masking around all the many squares and then spraying in black, there was no chance to get a satisfactory result. I had to find another solution, already mentioned in an earlier post. I made Steel Stamping Tools for the two Square Sizes and stamped manually Stickers from professional, all weather-proof adhesive Material, as used for long lasting Outdoor Promotion on Cars. The same I did with the Center of the Spinners.

Now, the “new paint” has all around sharply defined Edges as never feasible with Paint, the Squares are identical, and they can be washed free of damage. At a Glance, the HubCaps look as new and never used, another nice Upgrade of every 1959 Dodge. :)

To know: Just now I got a limited Quantity of Precision Laser-Cut Stickers and offer them at first to FWL-Members. A Set, in White or in Black, fitting four HubCaps (314 Square + 6 Knight Stickers, Application), covering costs ($30.00 + $10 Package & Shipment, PayPal sermey@bluewin.ch).

(DSC00058L Old Outworn Paint.jpg)

(DSC02977L Stamping Tools.jpg)

(DSC02970L CAD Design A4.jpg)

(DSC00025L White Center Sticker.jpg)

(DSC01930L Black Stickers.jpg)

(DSC02972L Black Center Sticker.jpg)

(DSC02975L All Stickers on HubCap.jpg)

DSC00058L Old Outworn Paint.jpg (65KB - 626 downloads)

DSC02977L Stamping Tools.jpg (58KB - 613 downloads)

DSC02970L CAD Design A4.jpg (84KB - 630 downloads)

DSC00025L White Center Sticker.jpg (103KB - 613 downloads)

DSC01930L Black Stickers.jpg (80KB - 653 downloads)

DSC02972L Black Center Sticker.jpg (90KB - 587 downloads)

DSC02975L All Stickers on HubCap.jpg (76KB - 639 downloads)

Automatic Beam-Changer: This Option was not on my Car when purchased. One day I found solely the Original Sensor Module, and I thought: “Why not?”

I designed a Transistor Trigger Circuit, soldered on a Board and mount under the Dashboard for direct access. A Printed Circuit Board (PCB) would have a quarter of Size. To eliminate the often discussed Flashing in Operate Mode, I set a higher Hysteresis (= Difference between ON – OFF Transition) and a longer ON Time-Constant (10 millisec for Beam OFF, +2 sec for Beam ON), as a manual Switching. The preset of the Sensitivity is done by the Trimmer on the Circuit Board (not visible), directing in the Garage a Pocket Lamp to the Beamer Unit to simulate the Light of an oncoming Car. The fine Adjustment when driving by turning the rear Knob on the Sensor Unit.

Now, the Automatic Headlight Control works excellently, but still remains critical in some Light Conditions due to the limited Viewing Angle of the Photo-Cell. Another Optional Equipment, not necessarily needed, but always nice to have. :) 

To know: the Automatic Inside Mirror  -  MirrorMatic uses the same basic circuit, both use the same Vacuum Tube 12k5. A PCB Transistor Circuit would fit in this Housing, or the Tube could simply be substituted by adequate Transistors, directly plug in the Tube Socket (12V Operation).

(1 Ross Roy - Automatic Beam-Changer L.jpg)

(2 DSC03002L Transistor Circuit & Relais.jpg)

(3 DSC02982L Beamer Unit .jpg)

(4 DSC03000L Beamer OverView.jpg)

1 Ross Roy - Automatic Beam-Changer L.jpg (54KB - 655 downloads)

2 DSC03002L Transistor Circuit & Relais.jpg (89KB - 629 downloads)

3 DSC02982L Beamer Unit .jpg (47KB - 652 downloads)

4 DSC03000L Beamer OverView.jpg (81KB - 669 downloads)

Dimmer Switch: Even when not directly visible, this Switch can easy be upgraded just by putting a Rubber Cap (not Plastic, Bore Dia. 22mm x 20), as used for Chairs.

Now, the covered Knob not only looks more discreet and similar to the Windshield Washer Pad, applying the Dimmer Switch feels much more comfortable. Comparing both Pictures it even seems, without the Rubber Cap something is missing. A quite simply improvement for any Oldtimer!

(DSC03036L Rubber Cap.jpg)

(DSC03051L Original Dimmer Switch.jpg)

(DSC03050L Dimmer Switch with Rubber Cap.jpg)

DSC03036L Rubber Cap.jpg (39KB - 631 downloads)

DSC03051L Original Dimmer Switch.jpg (67KB - 663 downloads)

DSC03050L Dimmer Switch with Rubber Cap.jpg (67KB - 656 downloads)

Sun Visors: On a Convertible the Sun Visors have an additional Function. In slightly higher than in horizontal Position they can reduce the Turbulences at open Top, acting as a virtual Extension of the Windshield. Then they are additionally exposed to a displacement.

To tighten a hanging Sun Visor, pull it out (may need some force), put in a parallel vice between two plane planks, protect it as illustrated, then squeeze a little bit in several steps until fixed enough.

Now, the Sun Visors remain in any circumstances at the preset Position.

(DSC03074L Removed Sun Visor.jpg)

(DSC03069L Retense The Sun Visor.jpg)

(DSC03068L Sun Visor Up.jpg)

DSC03074L Removed Sun Visor.jpg (49KB - 635 downloads)

DSC03069L Retense The Sun Visor.jpg (71KB - 636 downloads)

DSC03068L Sun Visor Up.jpg (78KB - 628 downloads)

15” Wheels and Tires: I always found, 14” Wheels on my Car are relatively too small and look poor in Proportion to the Body and its Wheelhouse. Must say, this was the Style at this time.

The other Point, bigger and wider Tires have much better Adhesion on the Street, the 235/70/15 Radial Tires about +25% in Comparison to the Original 14” Diagonal ones. This improvement is necessarily needed for a full Advantage of Disk Brakes. Thus, I decided in favor of 15” Wheels and the corresponding WWW Tires, still keeping the Original 14” Wheel Set including the Spinner Hubcaps. In order to keep the Original Appearance, the Original HubCaps should fit to the 15” Rims.

I bought 15” decorative stainless Rings, cut out the Border around, and soldered it inside the Wheel Cover. For a stronger Fixing on the rechromed Wheels I increased the Clamp Pression by putting a soft round PVC Profile under the Clamps.

Now, the Hubcaps fit perfectly to the 15” Rims, their Edges are even protected from Curbstones due to the inner Position, and the Air Valve is perfectly centered as well. According my personal feeling, this Wheel Size gives the Car its settled Proportions. Another improvement of the Outfit, for the Drivers Security, and as an additional Benefit the Wheel Cover Edge Protection.

(can see, my HubCaps are not perfect, but polished and with the sticked Black they look as)

(Original Wheel and Parking Lamp.jpg)

(1 DSC00001L Coker Tires 235-70-15.jpg)

(2 DSC03078L 15 Inch Decorative Stainless Rings.jpg)

(3 DSC00051L Soldered 15 Inch Ring.jpg)

(4 DSC03081L Inner Border of HubCap.jpg)

(5 DSCN0012L 15 Inch Wheel Assembled.jpg)

Original Wheel and Parking Lamp.jpg (73KB - 652 downloads)

1 DSC00001L Coker Tires 235-70-15.jpg (101KB - 643 downloads)

2 DSC03078L 15 Inch Decorative Stainless Rings.jpg (67KB - 621 downloads)

3 DSC00051L Soldered 15 Inch Ring.jpg (68KB - 592 downloads)

4 DSC03081L Inner Border of HubCap.jpg (89KB - 619 downloads)

5 DSCN0012L 15 Inch Wheel Assembled.jpg (97KB - 618 downloads)

Dome Nuts and Caps: These devices remove optically bad nuts, covers them or even protect them. Dome Nuts in polished stainless steel may appear as small diamonds.

A low-cost "Jewel+ for your car! - SERGE -  :laugh:

(01 Dome Nuts - Caps DSC03156.jpg)

(02 DomeCap DSC03154.jpg)

(03 DomeNuts Connector DSC00632a.jpg)

(04 DomeNuts Induction Coil.jpg)

01 Dome Nuts - Caps DSC03156.jpg (48KB - 630 downloads)

02 DomeCap DSC03154.jpg (53KB - 628 downloads)

03 DomeNuts Connector DSC00632a.jpg (55KB - 611 downloads)

04 DomeNuts Induction Coil.jpg (79KB - 600 downloads)

Plugged Instruments and Speedometer Units: Working on this Units, what ever the brand of the car, was always a mess for not scratching the painted surrounding, interrupt unintentionally a connection, produce accidentally a short-circuit (when battery unplugged) and even to fix them when working. On newer cars the Units can be removed by unplugging many cables. On our FL-cars, except for the lamps, most cables are fixed.

To avoid these problems, before restoring the gauges, I did these Units pluggable by a multiple pin connector. First I replaced all wires by 50cm long, flexible ones at adequate profile and different colors. When tested I assembled them to a common harness, then cut it and inserted a high current, multiple pin connector. For the most important wires (GND and +12V), delivering the main power, I used two pins in parallel, all pins being soldered. On the Instuments Unit the harness-outlet was set behind the headlamp-switch for an easy turn away to the right side (in the pics folded for re-install the unit).

The remaining connections to remove individually are the speedometer cable, the oil pressure hose and the clock adjustment cable. The ammeter loop, with the cable leading from the one wire alternator to the battery, got a separate interconnection (100A). The thinner black cables leeds to the battery-box (Type 1.5V, UM-6) just deposit under the dashboard for the quartzed clock, working non-stop since already 4 years. On the Speedometer Unit, the brown capton-adhesive tape fixes the fine wires for the four green Micro-LEDs set on the glass end face for an additional impressive illumination of the speed numbers (see Pic above in "Directional Flasher").

Now, a stressfree comfortable handling of the Instruments is possible, beside the dashboard or on a working table! – SERGE - ;)  ;) 

Edited by sermey 2009-12-06 11:00 AM

(2009-04-23 DSC03212 Speedometer Unit.jpg)

(2009-04-23 DSC03206 Front Instruments Panel.jpg)

(2009-04-23 DSC03205 Rear Instruments Panel.jpg)

(2009-04-23 DSC03204 View Under Dashboard.jpg)

Attachments
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2009-04-23 DSC03212 Speedometer Unit.jpg (58KB - 584 downloads)
2009-04-23 DSC03206 Front Instruments Panel.jpg (82KB - 596 downloads)
2009-04-23 DSC03205 Rear Instruments Panel.jpg (88KB - 610 downloads)
2009-04-23 DSC03204 View Under Dashboard.jpg (129KB - 616 downloads)

Rechromed Substitute Parts: On the market there are many rechromed parts available as substitutes, additional eye-catchers. Here two samples.

The Generator Bracket. Fits directly. For a nicer look can be shortened for best match, as I did here.

The Oil DipStick with the Tube. I bent the tube according the position I liked. Then, unfortunately the Oil DipStick couldn't be inserted anymore in the tube. Easy trick: Just twist it! :laugh:   - SERGE -

(Rechromed Generator Braket LL.jpg)

(Rechromed Distributor HoldDown LL.jpg)

(Rechromed Oil DipStick LL.jpg)

(Rechromed Oil DipStick Twisted LL.jpg)

(Rechromed DipStick in Tube LL.jpg)

Rechromed Generator Braket LL.jpg (92KB - 605 downloads)

Rechromed Distributor HoldDown LL.jpg (75KB - 614 downloads)

Rechromed Oil DipStick LL.jpg (64KB - 593 downloads)

Rechromed Oil DipStick Twisted LL.jpg (40KB - 609 downloads)

Rechromed DipStick in Tube LL.jpg (97KB - 581 downloads)

Thank you, John. Every one has his own talents. We all have got them for free. The ones uses them more, the others less. I think, most owner of an oldtimer will find and trim his car to a higher level, as soon he has done all needed restorations. Owning just one car is much easier.

The RAL Colors are well defined Color Standards and available on a CD, indicating the RGB (Red-Green-Blue) percents, awell known by  Photoshop-Users. Thus, any RAL Color can be mixed accordingly, and get exactly the same tone.

John, I have done some small stylist modifications, Virgil Exner would even be happy about - but not the purists.

Sorry, Gary, it is never done. The show goes on! A never ending process.  - SERGE -

Constant Voltage Regulator: This is a thermo-mechanical contact breaker, and cannot be repaired (metallic sealed). It's output is a pulsing 12V,  resulting in an average output of 5Volt. This voltage can only be measured with a long-time integrating instrument. A connected 12V instruments bulb will flash correspondingly. The regulator is used to operate both, the fuel level and the temperature gauges.

I found an electronic device for direct replacement and easy mounting. It doesn't need any additional components, produces a constant Voltage of +5.0V within an input range of  9 - 30 Volts. This device is temperature and short circuit protected, therefore cannot be destroyed. Just move the input and output connection of the breaker to the input / output of the electronic device. The output leads to the fuel level and temperature gauges. The ground (-) is already connected by the fixing screw of the original regulator (heat sink!). Thus the center pad (ground) could be cut. The maximum output current of 1.5A is more than double needed by the fuel level and temperature gauges at full readings.

The readings for two Input Voltages of 9 and 18 Volt, and the water temperature gauge loaded for "normal" reading (sensor simulation R = 22 Ohm, see Pic) have been tested. The output of the device shows a constant value of 4.90 Volt. The original voltage regulator can be left there as is, but unconnected, or it can be removed as shown. On the illustrations the device is not connected (demo on a spare instruments panel), best should be soldered.

Another invisible new technology for a better performance and a higher reliability of your car. - SERGE -  :laugh:

To know: I have purchased some additional devices for interested FWLs and can offer them at cost price: USD 5.00/piece plus shipment by letter (PAYPAL sermey@bluewin.ch).

(1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg)

(2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg)

(3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg)

(4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg)

(5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg)

(6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg)

1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg (92KB - 634 downloads)

2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg (64KB - 679 downloads)

3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg (81KB - 665 downloads)

4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg (90KB - 705 downloads)

5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg (80KB - 638 downloads)

6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg (93KB - 649 downloads)

DeSotohead: ..... If you really want to make it look "original", you can mount the 5V regulator on a PC board inside the old regulator housing.

This is a good idea, Hank. Then the integrated circuit can directly be soldered inside on the existing pins. It will need a screw for the heat sink, and on the Dodge, the metallic housing of the regulator is bent all around and must be opened (?).  I don't know if the other Mopars use the same regulator.

This is the same Mopar Regulator. But this one has only two bent edges. The one in my car (see above Pic 5) is bent all around.

The electronic regulator is a similar one, may-be an earlier product. There are many available, from various manufacturers and for different applications. The one I selected is best for our application and, according the datasheet, doesn't need any components at all (internally compensated), and cannot be destroyed (temperature and current protected). This security is a big advantage, thinking the regulator is located behind the instruments panel and not directly accessible.  Not needed, but the output accuracy in respect to the input range as tested is impressive (4.90V). Too precise for cars of the fifties!