Dual Oval Exhaust Tips: Long time I had the feeling, my Dual Round Exhaust Tips, as described earlier here, are too small for this big car.

Looking around I found Stainless Oval Tips AMG Style 350 x 85 x 58 mm, slanted. The lenght fits exactly up to the exhausts suspension. They can be mounted without seeing
any screws, thus looks as original tubes. Furthermore, due to the distance of the oval shape to the inner round tube, the tips will not get any heat tinting. They have only to be cut-out to fit the mounting brackets.
When assembled, inserted and adjusted to the correct position, just tighten the two screws - that's all. Same inverse procedure for easy removing.

Now my Dodge looks more powerful and sporty - a low cost visual power boost!   :)

(1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg)

(2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg)

(3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg)

(4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg)

(5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg)

(6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg)

(7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg)

(8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg)

(9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg)

(10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg)

1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg (90KB - 609 downloads)

2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg (65KB - 592 downloads)

3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg (133KB - 610 downloads)

4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg (96KB - 584 downloads)

5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg (46KB - 592 downloads)

6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg (59KB - 594 downloads)

7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg (63KB - 596 downloads)

8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg (73KB - 569 downloads)

9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg (82KB - 593 downloads)

10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg (81KB - 597 downloads)

Buzzer on Flasher: In addition to the earlier subject "Directional Flasher" in this thread here pictures of the final Flasher-Buzzer Unit as glued , connected and fixed with a clamp behind the radio (view from bottom). The buzzer is damped for lower alert with masking tape. 

Today I won't miss this option in my Convertible at all.  - SERGE -

(1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg)

(2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg)

1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg (103KB - 610 downloads)

2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg (86KB - 610 downloads)

4. “500” with font style of the front medaillon “DODGE”: To match the heavy chrome bars, the numbers are extruded with a slightly conical thickness (06). Inserted on the car with Photoshop as check gives a near original impression (07). Finally I decided to manufacture these numbers.
Using a STEP-File built from the model, a mechanical workshop cut the numbers directly, out of an aluminium-bloc, without the need any dimensions (08). The fixing bolts have been placed in order to fit between the gaps of the grille (M4). Thus there is no need of any modification or drilling (08). I did two sets at once. The one Golden coated I mounted first on the car, and the other I let Rechrome.
Golden I found too excessive (09)(10)(11). Only old ladies may wear a lot of gold – not a 1959 Dodge! Thus I swapped to the 500 Chrome version (12)(13)(14).
 
On the podest, at the last car meeting, the “outsider” speaker announced surprisingly: ”This is a DODGE 500”. -> No – this is just a unique, personalized 1959 DODGE!   - SERGE - 

(06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg)

(07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg)

(08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg)

(09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg)

(10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg)

(11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg)

(12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg)

(13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg)

(14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg)

06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (65KB - 615 downloads)

07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (130KB - 622 downloads)

08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg (83KB - 590 downloads)

09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg (135KB - 601 downloads)

10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg (111KB - 639 downloads)

11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg (144KB - 599 downloads)

12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg (145KB - 611 downloads)

13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg (150KB - 608 downloads)

14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg (170KB - 780 downloads)

I know, many will dislike this, keeping strictly all as Original. Of course, if I will feel same one day, I will switch all back - a much shorter project! 

(Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg)

Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg (141KB - 607 downloads)

As I decided for this missing option on my car, I purchased 1959 / 1960 mirrors, harder to find than all other Mopar types. The mirrors I got had all more or less visible pits or speckles, and couldn’t satisfy the demands for my car, even they were praised to be “very nice”. When I got total five of them, four with remote and one without, I had no other choice to restore them. Now it was obvious to install a remote one as well on the passenger side, as an exceptional feature.
 
1. The body: Outside mirrors are for a viewer most exposed items - a bad one would affect an overall positive impression. Thus, they should present as jewels.
When the mirrors were disassembled, first the old chrome was removed. Then punched-out the pits as already described earlier (01), and the geometry of the surfaces restored. For finishing the conical parts and the round mirror housings, fixing items were necessary -> a polishing tool and a spray cap (02) to fix them on the driller (03). Now all parts have become ready to be copper-plated (04). With the fine polishing at home (!), nickel- and chrome-plating externally, the bodies have become ready for assembling.

2. The control wire: I found Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire (05), for minimum friction needed in the longer control line (180cm), and matching the specs of the original wire (D 0.85mm / 30kp breaking strength). The difference of the wires is shown in (06). On the rear of the mirror, additional holes are drilled, enabling to swap the wires and fix them as original by a node (07). These holes then are closed with plastic plugs, and all looks again as it should be (08).
(will be continued)

(01 - Punched-out pits.jpg)

(02 - Fixing items.jpg)

(03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg)

(04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg)

(05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg)

(06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg)

(07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg)

(08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg)

01 - Punched-out pits.jpg (114KB - 601 downloads)

02 - Fixing items.jpg (69KB - 641 downloads)

03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg (95KB - 602 downloads)

04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg (160KB - 667 downloads)

05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg (111KB - 602 downloads)

06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg (91KB - 610 downloads)

07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg (62KB - 643 downloads)

08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg (94KB - 648 downloads)

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (2)

4. The control line: Searching for the shortest line to the dashboard I found best to pass behind the hood hinge, this as well for the driver side. I modified the shaft of a conical drilling tool to fit a 1/4" adapter (12). With some 1/4" extensions I could easy widen the hole up to 20mm to fit a rubber protector, where the fixing plug of the interior isolation was previously removed (13). Now the control wires behind the hood hinge are much shorter, hardly visible and in a heat protected place (14).
(will be continued)

Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 4:28 AM

(09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg)

(10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg)

(11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg)

(12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg)

(13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg)

(14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg (95KB - 755 downloads)
10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg (55KB - 754 downloads)
11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg (133KB - 700 downloads)
12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg (64KB - 779 downloads)
13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg (67KB - 742 downloads)
14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg (71KB - 781 downloads)

Power Window Connectors:

(01 - Single connector soldered.jpg)

(02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg)

(03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg)

(04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg)

(05 - Connectors mounted.jpg)

(06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg)

(07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg)

01 - Single connector soldered.jpg (101KB - 767 downloads)

02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg (103KB - 735 downloads)

03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg (122KB - 770 downloads)

04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg (135KB - 710 downloads)

05 - Connectors mounted.jpg (98KB - 692 downloads)

06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg (169KB - 900 downloads)

07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg (113KB - 722 downloads)

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (3)

6. The wire attachment: The described operations may be very usefull for those who have to repair their remote mirror. First of all, the three wires already fixed to the glass now must be inserted through the shell. To get the correct length the glass has to be fixed fully inside the body, to assure a sufficient tension to hold the mirror-glass at the end (18).

Due to the nickel-chrome alloy, the wire cannot be soft soldered. For a solid attachment crimping sleeves are needed, as is original. For this purpose I used standard rivets, D 4mm, L 5.5mm (19). Before removing the nail, the diameter of the rivets head should be reduced from 7.5mm to 6.5mm in order to fit to the control unit (20). The end of the flexible control wire is bent to be better fixed when crimped, using a standard AMP tool (21). Take care to correct diameter for crimping, or the rivet may not fit anymore to the control unit (22)! Now the wires can easily be attached (23). To know: the rivets cannot be removed after crimping. Can cut away, must restart with shortened shell and wire (-6mm).

On the passenger side, these operations can be done outside the car, for the control wires are long enough to pass the small side window (24).

(wiil be continued)

 

Edited by sermey 2012-06-21 12:28 PM

(15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg)

(16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg)

(17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg)

(18 - Fixing the glass.jpg)

(19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg)

(20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg)

(21 - Crimping the wire.jpg)

(22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg)

(23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg)

(24 - All control wires attached.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg (81KB - 744 downloads)
16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg (131KB - 710 downloads)
17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg (77KB - 707 downloads)
18 - Fixing the glass.jpg (115KB - 728 downloads)
19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg (111KB - 738 downloads)
20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg (101KB - 732 downloads)
21 - Crimping the wire.jpg (113KB - 700 downloads)
22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg (73KB - 792 downloads)
23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg (110KB - 718 downloads)
24 - All control wires attached.jpg (92KB - 761 downloads)

Here how as I did all parts  to be rechromed on my car:

1. Disassemble all items to single parts

2. Bring them to the galvanic shop for remove chrome and nickel. Old copper will partly be removed due to strongness of nickel-removal.

3. Restore items geometry by punching, grinding, . . . and pre-polish to get the control of the surfaces.

4. Bring them again to the galvanic-shop for copper-plating. Needs enough copper for last restoration.

5. Fine-grinding and polish the item (01). The rechromed part will exactly be shiny as it has been polished.

6. Bring to the galvanic shop for nickel-plate and chrome-plate. Looks as in 5., but now in "blue" chrome (02).

When nice polished and rechromed, the mirror-effect should be sharp as from a glass-mirror (unfortunately my rugh ceiling is reflected, but some differences on the the Pic are apparent). If you can polish the items by yourself, you alone decide how nice the items will become.

To know: from polishing you will get more black than from grease.

 

 

Edited by sermey 2012-06-25 3:24 PM

(01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg)

(02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg (149KB - 700 downloads)
02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg (181KB - 909 downloads)

This is a good advise, for I didn't know, unless it was to be expected. Do they sound when flashing as well?

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (4)

Dual remote outside rear view mirrors, an additional exclusive feature on an outstanding 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible.  – SERGE -      

(25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg)

(26 - Left side mirror control.jpg)

(27 - Right side mirror control.jpg)

(28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg)

(29 - Mounted bullets.jpg)

(30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg)

25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg (107KB - 719 downloads)

26 - Left side mirror control.jpg (135KB - 754 downloads)

27 - Right side mirror control.jpg (139KB - 718 downloads)

28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg (110KB - 774 downloads)

29 - Mounted bullets.jpg (145KB - 708 downloads)

30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg (136KB - 754 downloads)

Head Lamp Bezel: When purchasing this item, the fixing clips are often rusty, broken or even missing (01). Before rechroming, they anyway have to be removed. Instead of these single metal clips, I used on each side two standard Nylon washers (D20 x d10.5 x t2mm) to fix the head lamp bezel. Metal washers are not flexible!
Grind the washer, flat on one side of its diameter, from D20mm to 18.5mm (or to d3.5mm distance to inner diameter) (02). Then, with a self-tapping stainless pan head screw (D2.85mm x 5.5mm), the Nylon washer can be fixed on the bezel (03). Due to the asymmetric grinded surface on one side, and to the geometric shape of the bezel on the other side, the washer cannot turn around and remains fixed, but still being flexible for mounting (03). Because of the originally uncentered threads of screw on the bezel, the Nylon washers have not the equal length, but this doesn't influence the function at all (04). A perfect Head Lamp Bezel you can see here:

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=34070&start=10
 
When needed, this is an instantly, simple and rustfree solution, and not scratching the paint when assembling.  - SERGE -

To Know: This Head Lamp Bezel is identical for the left and the right side. What you see here I did already 10 years ago, the Nylon washers have become a little bit yellow..

(01 - Missing Clips.jpg)

(02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg)

(03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg)

(04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg)

01 - Missing Clips.jpg (87KB - 748 downloads)

02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg (133KB - 676 downloads)

03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg (150KB - 718 downloads)

04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg (142KB - 692 downloads)

^{Soft Front Styling: Supplement to  http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=144}

^{I found some missing pictures commented here. The cutting line has equal distance (78mm) to the end, for keeping the original angle (3a). In the shortened chrome bar, four screw threads M4 (not M3!) are cut (3b). On the other side, the four Allen stainless screws are then shortened as needed (3c). As usual, it looks nice and solid.} 

(3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg)

(3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg)

(3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg)

3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg (69KB - 711 downloads)

3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg (143KB - 724 downloads)

3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg (113KB - 713 downloads)

Soft Front Styling 2:
Here again: A soft styling is only visible when direct comparing with the original. This should just accentuate or hide some style elements being part of its original design.

Just remove the parking light assembly, put underneath washers or plates as distance, about 10 - 15mm at all according personal preference, the screws are long enough (04). Washers can be added and removed afterwards at any time. Then re-assemble the unit as well with the chrome bar mounted. My shortened chrome bars have anyway an additional bracket for fixing, thus before tightening it can be positioned, otherwise as well washers will be needed. The positioning of the chrome bars should be done carefully in order to keep the full harmony of the front. They should be aligned vertically (05) and horizontally according the bumpers inclination (06). After this small moving to front, the change can easy be seen at the mounted collars, or in direct comparison (07). Best effect is visible from inside (08) or exact from side position (09).

This soft front styling injects to a 1959 Dodge a decent “horny” appearance!  - SERGE -        

N.B. The red rust-protecting paint behind the body (04) is from the former owner. He used to paint all with, even no rusting surfaces as shown here.

(01 - Original Position.jpg)

(02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg)

(03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg)

(04 - Distances-washer.jpg)

(05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)

(06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)

(07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg)

(08 - Moved - Right View.jpg)

(09 - Moved - Side View.jpg)

01 - Original Position.jpg (75KB - 670 downloads)

02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg (97KB - 698 downloads)

03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg (111KB - 709 downloads)

04 - Distances-washer.jpg (148KB - 720 downloads)

05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (129KB - 683 downloads)

06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (113KB - 696 downloads)

07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (146KB - 717 downloads)

08 - Moved - Right View.jpg (124KB - 701 downloads)

09 - Moved - Side View.jpg (115KB - 712 downloads)

Head Lamp Assembly: The head lamps on my 1959 Dodge are un-centered (01), the glass-ring of one lamp is even nearly touching the head lamp bezel (02). There is no way provided to center them, they are factory “adjusted by design-engineering“. Here I show how I fixed it on the right head lamp. Same proceeding to apply for the other head lamps.
As all parts, including the beamer lining, are related to the main housing, no post-readjustment of the beamer will be needed when centered. The main unit has just to be moved toward the center position (03). To get the single head lamp unit adjustable the three fixing holes have to be enlarged to 6mm dia, or grinded to enable the needed shift. For the illustrated case here, this was not sufficient. Because the border of the main housing prevented to extend the fixing wholes as needed, this had to be done on the car-body side. I inserted riveting nuts M5 according the displacement. The aperture for the lamp unit on the car-body had as well to be grinded accordingly (04). I cut all M5 threads in the body, for easy inserting the stainless Alen screw M5 inside the assembly (05). Then I used the opportunity to give the glass-ring a soft polish (06).
Fix the lamp unit just to remain still movable. The glass-ring, as well the head lamp bezel, now have to be pre-fixed as reference for centering. When centered "by eye", remove again the head lamp bezel to have access to the fixing screws M5. With the final tightening and the re-mounted head lamp bezel the proceeding for this lamp is terminated (07). Of course, the head lamp bezel has always to be in the correct, aligned position to the fender. 
Now the head lamp assembly is finally where it should be (08).  -- SERGE –

 

Edited by sermey 2012-07-17 3:17 AM

(01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg)

(02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg)

(03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg)

(04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg)

(05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg)

(06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg)

(07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg)

(08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg (129KB - 700 downloads)
02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg (129KB - 669 downloads)
03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg (126KB - 685 downloads)
04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg (129KB - 691 downloads)
05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg (94KB - 698 downloads)
06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg (106KB - 684 downloads)
07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg (114KB - 711 downloads)
08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg (144KB - 676 downloads)

Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest.
First remove backseat for easier handling. On the swivel seat, just rasp on each side near the both hinges, where the backrest is stopped, about 4.5mm deep (2). In back position the seat should fit on both sides (3). The angle then will increase from about 97deg to 103deg (90 + 13) (4).
Now, simply by a minor “surgical operation”, sitting in the car feels more relaxing and comfortable (5).  - SERGE -    

To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat.

(1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg)

(2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg)

(3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg)

(4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg)

(5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg)

1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 670 downloads)

2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 691 downloads)

3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 689 downloads)

4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 680 downloads)

5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 668 downloads)

Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5).
To a modern radio only one of these antennas should be connected, the second antenna, as stated, to the original MF- radio, or when removed or not working, just left unconnected.
My car has two radio receivers: the original radio type 857, (MF range “5 – 16”) located in the center of the dashboard (6), the loudspeaker as well on top center dashboard (*). The other multi-band stereo receiver with musicassette player and remote controle is hidden in the glove box. (7), the 6 loudspeakers are on both front bottom sides and on the rear.
 Accordingly there are two separate antenna cables from the dual antennas, both along the right side under the sill plate to the radios. The rear left antenna leads to the original radio, the line here  is longer and less loss-sensitive at lower RF-signals, the rear right antenna goes to the modern radio needing a shorter cable, with low capacity as used today.
Now, both radios work independently, even simultaneously, without any interference and fading (8).  – SERGE –    

(*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...

 

Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM

(1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg)

(2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)

(3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)

(4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg)

(5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg)

(6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg)

(7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg)

(8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 674 downloads)
2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 701 downloads)
3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 709 downloads)
4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 680 downloads)
5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 725 downloads)
6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 700 downloads)
7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 683 downloads)
8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 663 downloads)

Front Seats 2: For those who want this modification to be reversible, here I did the seatback angle adjustable, to a fixed angle:
Cut on both sides of the lower seat hinge in the upper end a thread of M6 and insert a headless Allen screw of 10mm length (6).
Now the modified seatback angle (7) can be re-set to its original position (8) by compensating the rasped 4.5mm with the screw. Or you can adjust the angle to a minor amount to your best comfort (9).  - SERGE -

N.B. As I like my fixed setting, these pictures are real-view mounted for illustration on PS.

Edited by sermey 2012-07-27 3:10 AM

(6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg)

(7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg)

(8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg)

(9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg (80KB - 681 downloads)
7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg (102KB - 638 downloads)
8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg (90KB - 621 downloads)
9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg (123KB - 703 downloads)

FIN ME - 2012-08-02 4:57 PM Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! :)

Thanks for your kind comment, and to all the many people viewing this thread. Three hints to the photos: - 1. clean the item - 2. remove around all what not needed - 3. then at all if possible: NO flash to keep the deepness! - SERGE -

Fuel Alert Contact: In addition to: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=173&start=41
I sacrificed various samples of micro-switches because their body was not resistant to fuel (01). Then I applied a simple way to get a cursor controlled contact, to switch ON a LED before the fuel tank is empty.
I used a copper plated board (PCB) as used in electronics. Then separated the copper plating in two sectors by grinding, one side A soldering to the ground and fixing, the other side B leading to the LED by a separate (black) wire. The hand-made cursor is soldered to the turning axis of the variable resistor (02). It needs an additional pad, very well sealed to the fuel (3). Inside, the wire is soldered (4). Just before the fuel tank is empty, the cursor grounds the LED to switch it ON. The other pad of the LED is connected to +5V (regulator), over a resistor of 180 – 470Ohm to fix the brightness.

Now, when the LED goes on, I read the odometer and know exactly how far the remaining fuel will last, independent of the vague fuel gauge reading (05). For today cars nothing exceptional, but all the more on a fifties car.  – SERGE -

N.B. The elegant solution is using a differetial OPAMP, no extra wires, but same variable resistor. Finally I was restoring a car, not again designing an electronic device.

(01 - Micro-Switch.jpg)

(02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg)

(03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg)

(04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg)

(05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg)

(06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg)

01 - Micro-Switch.jpg (100KB - 695 downloads)

02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg (67KB - 687 downloads)

03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg (108KB - 685 downloads)

04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg (101KB - 689 downloads)

05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg (99KB - 661 downloads)

06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg (130KB - 662 downloads)

Wider tires: Modern wider tires transform a car visually to a more powerful vehicle. This is obvious when comparing two tire types next to each other on the similar FWL-Car: Original Dodge Diagonal Type, and replacement Radial Type (01). This and the much better stability on the street, mainly in curves and when braking, brought me to do this switch. First, shortly abstract considerations on dimensions:
_________________________________________________________________________________________
Diagonal Type 225/75/14”
DW = 355.6mm : [Diameter of Wheel (DW)14": 14 x 25.4mm= 355.6mm (1" = 25.4mm)]
HT = 168.75mm :[Height of the Tire (HT): 225mm x 75% = 168.75mm]
OD = 693.1mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): DW + (2 x HT) = 355.6mm + 337.5mm = 693.1mm (or 27.3")]
CC = 2176mm : [Circumference (CC): OD x 3.14 (pi) = 693.1mm x 3.14 = 2176.334 mm (or 85.7")]

Radial Type 235/70/15”
DW = 381mm : [Diameter of the Wheel (DW)15": DW = 15 x 25.4mm= 381mm]
HT = 164.5mm : [Height of the Tire (HT): HT = 235mm x 70% = 164.5mm]
OD = 710mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): OD = DW + (2 x HT) = 381mm + 329mm = 710mm (or 27.9")]
Overall Diameter measured OD = 708mm – I wonder how accurate (02).
CC = 2229.4mm : [Circumference (CC): CC = OD x 3.14 (pi) = 710mm x 3.14 = 2229.4 mm (or 87.7")]
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Differences and effects on car:
The Circumference CC (235/70/15") is 2.4% longer than the CC (225/70/14"). At same speedometer reading, now the car will run 2.4% faster. This difference is just tolerable without modifying the speedometer. Or otherwise: the speedometer will show 2.4% less at same speed. To calibrate the speedometer when needed, the return-spring in the speedometer should be lowered by lengthen, as calibrating mechanical watches.
The Overall Diameter OD (235/70/15") is 16.9mm bigger, thus the car will stay about this half amount higher. For the front this can be compensated by adjusting the torsion bars, and for the rear by setting down the high jackers.
The Wheel Distance with tires 8.00 x 14” is factory given by 60.9” (03) or 1546.8mm, on my car with the wider tires it is 1624mm, about 77mm more.
There is a noticeable difference in the Road Contact when measured: the Diagonal Type 125mm (04), and the Radial Type 175mm (05). This is 40% more! Highlighted the rear left tire on the street (06), or another front view (07).
Wider tires offer more security and power-feeling in one step. Just keep the original hubcaps on the car, and keep as well in reserve the original wheels. – SERGE –  

P.S. (01) Partly Picture: Quentin Willson “Classic American Cars”

(01 - Comparison Front View.jpg)

(02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg)

(03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg)

(04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg)

(05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg)

(06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg)

(07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg)

01 - Comparison Front View.jpg (160KB - 665 downloads)

02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg (104KB - 664 downloads)

03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg (90KB - 692 downloads)

04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg (130KB - 652 downloads)

05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg (111KB - 668 downloads)

06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg (114KB - 687 downloads)

07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg (118KB - 663 downloads)

Thank you and as new member welcome on this site.

What you see here is mostly “cold coffee”, because the restoration was completed about 15 years ago. At this time I had no digital camera. Now, not so easy to comment and particular to show “before – after”. Sometimes I must use pictures of other cars as reference.  - SERGE - 

A useful option that make sense. I will have a look at. - SERGE -

Filling Fine Scripts: For fine letters, standard paints will sometimes “over-layer” when filling. For this purpose, the thinnest paint I found was the Permanent Refill Ink (01), used for water resistant marker felt pens. It is very fast-drying and has a high coverage.
Apply with an ultra fine brush or needle (*), and when dried, remove the over-paint simply by rubbing with the finger or a school rubber. If too resistive use a fine cloth, moistened with solvent without pressing.
Now, the newly filled fine scripts have got a much higher contrast and thus become significantly better readable.  – SERGE -     

(*) A felt pen is not suitable for a homogeneous coating on metal.

(01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg)

(02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg)

(03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg)

01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg (97KB - 665 downloads)

02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg (108KB - 667 downloads)

03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg (61KB - 694 downloads)

Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5).  - SERGE -

(1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg)

(2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg)

(3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg)

(4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg)

(5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg)

1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 734 downloads)

2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 702 downloads)

3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 660 downloads)

4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 658 downloads)

5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 678 downloads)

Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem.

Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come.  - SERGE -

(01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg)

(02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg)

(03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg)

(04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg)

01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 771 downloads)

02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 647 downloads)

03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 655 downloads)

04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 678 downloads)