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Converter to Spin-on Oil Filter for 318 Poly Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> The Exhaust Pipe - Modification & Performance | Message format |
mean58fury |
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Regular Posts: 82 | I know that PAW and Hot Heads make converters to spin-on type oil filters for early Hemi engines. Is there anyone out there selling one for the 1958 318 Poly? My Fury has the canister type and I would like to change it if possible to accept modern spin on filters. Any help will be greatly appreciated. | ||
peachcasino |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 394 Location: GREEN BAY WI AREA | heres one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1953-58-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-NOS-... | ||
safetymike77 |
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Expert Posts: 4533 Location: Ripon, WI | Actually, you can take the round plate, the center stud and an oring and put it on just like the newer 318 blocks... I have the plate and the center in my garage... With nothing to use it on... hint hint. | ||
plypete |
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Veteran Posts: 228 Location: Centerville, SD | You can use the right angle LA (273, 318, 340,360) filter adaptor. These are on ebay all of the time and are available new. You just need the gasket that comes with a cartridge filter. Or like mike said, take the stuff from a newer block and install the same way. | ||
Mel |
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Veteran Posts: 279 Location: Los Angeles, CA | As safetymike said, there is a spin on adapter for the newer blocks which will work for your block as well. It's just a plate that you thread onto the block where the old canister used to thread into. The only thing to remember is that you will need to block your engine's internal bypass in order to convert to the full flow filter. I put one of these plate adapters on my '59 326 poly and it's worked great and made oil changes so much easier. | ||
mean58fury |
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Regular Posts: 82 | Hey Safety Mike sell me your adaptor. Do you have a PayPal account? Let me know how much and how you would like to be paid. I just did an oil change with the dreaded canister and needless to say that there is a puddle of oil under the car. That's the last time that I try changing oil on a piece of $#&% canister. NO MORE!!! I need the adaptor as quickly as possible. Thank you guys for the advice and assistance. Since I'm making my car a driver and not a show queen I will be making adjustments from the original equipment when it is suited. Doug 1958 Fury "Charlene" Leaking oil, but looking beautiful doing it. | ||
safetymike77 |
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Expert Posts: 4533 Location: Ripon, WI | Email me your contact info, and I will send you the info on it. Shipping should be nice and cheap. You will need to get the gasket between the block and the plate, but I have the new style center piece that has a square in the center for a 3/8 extension. Allows you to get it tight enough to seal. | ||
narleycharlie |
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Expert Posts: 1812 Location: Slidell La. | Mel - 2006-12-30 5:55 PM Mel , you mentioned blocking the internal bypass , never heard that phrase before . I have pulled my poly 318 to opt for a larger motor and better tranny , but I have always had a major oil leak which I always thouht to be a rear main . The adaptor for the oilfilter was already on the car when I bought it . Could that have been my leak all along ? The bypass not being plugged off ?As safetymike said, there is a spin on adapter for the newer blocks which will work for your block as well. It's just a plate that you thread onto the block where the old canister used to thread into. The only thing to remember is that you will need to block your engine's internal bypass in order to convert to the full flow filter. I put one of these plate adapters on my '59 326 poly and it's worked great and made oil changes so much easier. | ||
safetymike77 |
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Expert Posts: 4533 Location: Ripon, WI | PRolly not charlie.... It is internal in the engine... The leak is probably because the adaptor isn't tight enough. The old style is very tough to get tight without screwing up the threads. The new style ones have a 3/8 ratchet square in the middle of them. | ||
Mel |
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Veteran Posts: 279 Location: Los Angeles, CA | The bypass is inside the engine. It's a hole you need to block in order to convert to a full flow filter. It won't cause any external leaks by not blocking the passage. I think Mike is right about your leak. The adaptor probably isn't tight. | ||
narleycharlie |
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Expert Posts: 1812 Location: Slidell La. | Yeah its been a mess from day one , no one around here wanted to tackle the old style rope seal , and I would have been pretty pizzed if that didn t solve the problem . Thanks for the insite . | ||
Resurrector |
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Ok so how do you get at this bypass hole in the engine?? I did the same thing on my 318, converted to the spin-on...but I didn't know about this bypass deal...my engine is still on the hoist, do I need to take off the oil pan to get at it? | |||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | The bypass is drilled in the block under the rear main cap. You will need to pull the pan and the cap, and then to insert a plug into this drilled passage replacing a ball and spring valve which you will find there. Pull the whole cage assy out and you can most likely use the same blockoff the hemis use (Hot Heads has them), or make your own.... | ||
Resurrector |
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And what happens when you don't plug it? No oil pressure? | |||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | No...Nothing like that! BUT, the internal bypass in the oil filter will be overridden by this internal one, so you will always be getting unfiltered oil in the system. The internal bypass is set at a lower delta-P than the spin-ons, because the canister filters would leak to the outside world at colder temperatures without this relief. If possible, I would highly recommend plugging the internal one..... | ||
Resurrector |
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Ahh, crap. Good to know though, thanks! | |||
Resurrector |
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I wanted to share how I ended up plugging the bypass hole. The hole is just a bit bigger than 3/8", so I tapped it to 7/16" coarse thread - no need to drill it out for the tap. Then I cut the end off a bolt and cut a slot in the end to screw it in with a flat screwdriver (a 7/16" allen-head plug would have been ideal - didn't have one, so I improvised) I loct-tited it and screwed it in - worked great, and saved buying the plug from hot heads. I put grease in the grooves of the tap to contain the metal bits. | |||
Mike P |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 585 Location: SE Arizona | I'm not sure that you have done a good thing. If I read your post correctly you made a solid plug. The "plug" hot heads sells is actually slotted and hollow on one end, not solid. The slot is aligned to direct the oil thru the filter and then to the engine. The hollow end is where the oil enters the engine from the oil pump. I'm not positive but I suspect you have just blocked all the oil flow to the engine. Edited by Mike P 2007-02-18 8:23 PM (releif valve.JPG) Attachments ---------------- releif valve.JPG (54KB - 434 downloads) | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | Mike P - 2007-02-18 7:03 PM I'm not sure that you have done a good thing. If I read your post correctly you made a solid plug. The "plug" hot heads sells is actually slotted and hollow on one end, not solid. The slot is aligned to direct the oil thru the filter and then to the engine. The hollow end is where the oil enters the engine from the oil pump. I'm not positive but I suspect you have just blocked all the oil flow to the engine. I too- kinda wondered about the solid plug, but I don't know those engines. On the 354 Hemi the plug that Hotheads sells directs the oil to the spin on oil filter only-which has a built in bypass....................................5%................. | ||
Mike P |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 585 Location: SE Arizona | ".....I too- kinda wondered about the solid plug, but I don't know those engines........." I'm kind of in the same boat and don't have access to a 318 Poly to look at. Additionally it may also depend on the year of the block. I'm not sure how accurate the picture attached is but it shows the Poly as a full flow system (no by-pass passage or valve. No bypass valve in the block (under the main cap would be the first clue that it's full flow (but I could have been left out on a previous re-build). The real test would be to determine if there is a passage drilled between the oil filter in and out ports. Possibly someone with a 58 318 shop manual could tell. Regardless of that, if the plug was installed just deep enough the to plug the passage (i.e. almost flush with the main cap surface) it has in effect block off the entire oil flow to the engine. If the block is a bypass design the plug would need to be made/installed so that it ONLY blocks the bypass port and leaves the oil filter passage open. (Poly%20Oil%20System.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Poly%20Oil%20System.jpg (110KB - 722 downloads) | ||
Resurrector |
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Mike P - 2007-02-19 6:03 PM I'm not sure that you have done a good thing. If I read your post correctly you made a solid plug. The "plug" hot heads sells is actually slotted and hollow on one end, not solid. The slot is aligned to direct the oil thru the filter and then to the engine. The hollow end is where the oil enters the engine from the oil pump. I'm not positive but I suspect you have just blocked all the oil flow to the engine. Not to worry, I didn't plug the entire passage, just the very deep end of it...I made sure the plug didn't stick up past into the area where oil flows through the cavity, from the oil pump to the filter. The plug is only 1/4" long. I Should have taken a picture of it. | |||
Mike P |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 585 Location: SE Arizona | "......Not to worry, I didn't plug the entire passage, just the very deep end of it......." Just as it should be. I was concerned from reading your post that the entire passage was pluged and would have hated to see a ruined engine as a result. | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | OK Jeff that sounds good. You have done basicaly what the aftermarket part is designed to do and saved yourself time and money. .........................5%.... | ||
Resurrector |
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That's my "farmer improvising" kicking in!! Thanks for the concern though guys, I have about $3300 invested in this engine...so I was very grateful for this forum and noticing this post. My engine builder, when asked about this, reminded me jokingly that the '55 Ch**y 265 had no filter at all - now that's crazy! | |||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Anyone have a source for a 318 poly 90 degree spin on oil filter adapter? Thanks! Marc. | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3027 Location: N.W. Fla. | mstrug - 2015-05-26 6:42 AM If memory serves me correctly look for a Van (?) with the 90 deg. fitting on it & put it on your Poly as described above.Anyone have a source for a 318 poly 90 degree spin on oil filter adapter? Thanks! Marc. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | 55 chevrolet , no filter , i'd stop goin to that builder -------------------------------------------------later https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=191 | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Yep, It was an option on '6's those years! All 6-cylinders and 1955 V8's had optional bolt on units. These filters might be rare, but you can always find them at Danchuk! Danchuk # 191 will work on any 1956-1957 classic Chevy model with a 6-cylinder engine and 1955 V-8's. | ||
Tragic Wagon |
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Member Posts: 35 | Marc, I have a couple of the 90° adapter setups lying around. Good used parts from my 340s. Let me know if you're interested and I can ship one with the pulley. Edited by Tragic Wagon 2015-05-28 11:45 AM | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6487 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Oh heck yeah! Thanks! Marc. | ||
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