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1957 Plymouth 2 Door Suburban Wagon - IT RUNS! Jump to page : 1 2 3 Now viewing page 2 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Great! At least I don't feel alone in having garbage panel fitment. Heck you'k think with only 2 doors to get fitted they'd get a bit closer. I'll take you up on that for sure. Thanks! | ||
dukeboy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6203 Location: Big pimpin' | Scott Smith Harms - 2009-04-02 7:00 PM On another note, does anyone make headers for these cars? Not that I want to butcher the car but a headers would be a nice add on and I could keep and stash the OEM manifolds. Not the kind your prolly used to...You know, the Summit Racing $200.00/set Headers.....Anything you find in the header department for the poly's will cost 'ya........Let's put it this way....Before you buy a set of custom made headers for that car, you will prolly pull that old poly 301, and dump in a later "LA" style 318..... Edited by dukeboy 2009-04-02 7:51 PM | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | I get the picture, oh well, leave it stock for now I guess. If I swap engines it will be to one of these, I have a freshly restored one carbs to pan with exhaust from a 60 300F in the garage just begging for a new home! (61 Long Ram.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 61 Long Ram.jpg (121KB - 272 downloads) | ||
dukeboy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6203 Location: Big pimpin' | YEAH!!! That's what I'm talkin' bout! | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Ok, So today I removed the remainder of the A/C system (under dash unit, condenser, compressor, etc.). It all came out very easily and is in good shape. I screwed all the hoses and fittings back together to keep the lines clean of junk and stashed it all in the shop. So now I want to tackle replacing the entire wiring harness (I've ordered a new reproduction) and clean and detail the backside as it's pretty dusty/dirty under there. It seems that the easiest way to do so is to remove the entire dash as an assembly, fit it all up on the bench, and then reinstall it as a unit. Any comments? Is there a simple procedure for removing the dash? | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Here's the air stuff. I did a bit of research, it's from a company called "Clardy MFG." out of Fort Worth Texas. I found them doing a net search but I don't think they are still in business. The grille for the dash unit is MIA otheriwise it's 100% complete and functional. If anyone has a junker dash unit for this that could give up a grille I could make it complete? (Cool Car Air Conditioning.jpg) (Clardy Cool Car Air Conditioning Box.jpg) (Clardy Cool Car Air Conditioning Serial Number.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Cool Car Air Conditioning.jpg (181KB - 335 downloads) Clardy Cool Car Air Conditioning Box.jpg (199KB - 323 downloads) Clardy Cool Car Air Conditioning Serial Number.jpg (161KB - 297 downloads) | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | So, in case anyone was wondering just how much it might cost to get your "rotter" running and road worthy again here are some actual costs to consider. Keep in mind that this car actually ran when I started but that doesn't exactly make it a dependable ride, some of these items could have been skipped over, but in the name of good preventative maintainance they were rebuilt/replaced anyway. I'm far from finished, still have to purchase some more tune up parts, a battery, complete wire harness, complete brake overhaul and tires, not to mention some not so functional upgrades like floor pan patches, uphosltry, etc. so here's a running total so far..... 1957 Plymouth Wagon – Parts cost tracking 28.97 Fuel Pump 1.00 Gas Tank O-Ring 6.13 Rislone Oil 18.99 Silicone Gasket 14.18 Anti-freeze (2 gal) 2.99 Gumout (Gasket Cleaner) 57.48 Engine Oil (12 quarts 10w30) 14.12 Oil filter 12.72 Spark Plugs 200.00 Boil & repair radiator 236.98 Boil & repair fuel tank 150.00 Rebuild Generator 110.00 Rebuild Starter 59.00 New Voltage Regulator 34.90 Soft brake line hoses 27.90 Fuel sender filter & float 100.00 Fuel sending unit 30.55 Gas cap 76.09 Rebuild water pump 14.04 Fan Belt 5.88 Thermostat .69 Thermostat gasket 1.98 Fuel line-sending unit 6.99 Fuel filter 13.05 Radiator hose 16.33 Radiator hose 18.99 Heater hose 8.72 Bypass hose 45.00 Ignition Key Sub $1,328.79 Here's my dilema; The underhood of the car is really starting to look cool, all of the original diurt and grime is comming off after much scraping and washing with every harsh chemical known to man, what's revealed is a very "Desert baked" looking under hood area with a nice dry antiqued "rust & old paint patina" on most every componant, even the generator and starter motor are originals to the car and were left unpainted after thier rebuilds, only cleaned of grease and gook. So, what do you guys think? should I go ahead and properly repaint and detail the engine bay to original or should I just leave it all crusty looking but keep it clean and original showing all the wear on everything (which sort of matches the rest of the cars appearance)? I can get the rest of the incorrect blue paint off the intake to give it a more correct "worn original" appearance, it comes off easy. Edited by Scott Smith Harms 2009-04-18 10:03 PM (Wagon Parts Rebuilt.jpg) (Starter Tag.jpg) (Generator Tag.jpg) (301 stripped.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Wagon Parts Rebuilt.jpg (254KB - 292 downloads) Starter Tag.jpg (203KB - 287 downloads) Generator Tag.jpg (191KB - 285 downloads) 301 stripped.jpg (245KB - 344 downloads) | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I prefer an an unmolested original over a half-baked resto any time, so I would vote for keeping the patina as much as possible until you decide to do the whole thing. I have done some painting of valve covers and intake, etc. in the past and then just let them grime up to match - which never takes too long if you are driving it. I will have to get out your way and see this beast. Brent | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | What are the odds of this? I was looking for an original 301 crank pulley so I started with the local Craigslist ads, I simply typed in "Plymouth" in the parts search, the VERY first ad was for a complete 1957 Plymouth 301 V8 and 2 speed transmission. Not only was it EXACTLY the engine & trans I have in the wagon (looked like a clone of it condition wise as well) it was also in good running condition, local, and cheap! $300.00for the works! So now I have a spare engine& trans for parts etc. I may just strip and detail it and replace what's currently in the car just for the conveinience of having everything accessable. (Spare 301.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Spare 301.jpg (246KB - 329 downloads) | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Well time for an update. It's been what seemed to be a really short summer, I was hoping to get the old girl back together and on the road for some fun this summer but it was not to be, several things hindered my efforts, work being at the top of the list and parts availability being just below it. This was my first adventure working on a pre 60's Mopar (as I'm sure you can see by my many postings with questions), I learned allot about these old cars in the process (much of it to the credit of you board members) you guys got me out of allot of head scratching situations and I appreciate it! I made my most recent goal complete today by getting the suspension rebuild finished and to get the car back onto it's tires before the snow flies. I have one PIA hicup to deal with and that is to R&R the torsion bars again, upon lowering the car It went right to the ground so it looks like I missed something in re-installing them. They are in the correct location ("Left" marked bar on drivers side, "Right" on passenger side, both with the R&L facing the rear of the car) I adjusted the bolts with about and inch of thread showing above the anchor as the book instructs but for some reason they don't hold the car up? I'll mess with it some more tomarrow, for now she rests with a 4x4 woodblock under the K member (nice rake though! :)). I invested $400.00 in new generic tires because the others were junk/leakers of various sizes, these 215's are the tallest 14.00" tires I could find locally, they actually look ok. Edited by Scott Smith Harms 2009-10-09 11:33 PM (57 Wagon October 10 2009 2.jpg) (57 wagon October10, 2009.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57 Wagon October 10 2009 2.jpg (165KB - 365 downloads) 57 wagon October10, 2009.jpg (202KB - 285 downloads) | ||
jsrail |
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Expert Posts: 1590 Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Really nice wagon Scott! I really want an early station wagon one of these days, but have too many projects going now that are unfinished and driving the wife crazy! | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | She's looking great Scott! Scott Smith Harms - 2009-10-09 10:28 PM I have one PIA hicup to deal with and that is to R&R the torsion bars again, upon lowering the car It went right to the ground so it looks like I missed something in re-installing them. They are in the correct location ("Left" marked bar on drivers side, "Right" on passenger side, both with the R&L facing the rear of the car) I've never replaced torsion bars myself, so someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the "L" and "R" go the front of the car, not the rear. The exposed end should allow you to see the part number. Probably a simple fix.... (PICT0017_resize.jpg) (PICT0018.JPG) Attachments ---------------- PICT0017_resize.jpg (83KB - 274 downloads) PICT0018.JPG (55KB - 267 downloads) | ||
MoparBrew |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 461 Location: Brooklyn NY | I've found on all Mopar torsionbar frontends, when reinstalling the t-bars, try and have the lower control arms hanging as low as possible. The bar ends being a hex, if you "catch" the hex side with controlarm too far up, you'll experience what you are now. 57 Burb is right in the #s go to the rear. Did you reverse the bars by accident or take'em out that way?..From another Suburban guy.....Ralph from Brooklyn | ||
MoparBrew |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 461 Location: Brooklyn NY | 1 more thing, you'll know if you connected the t-bars at too low a point if when raising the controlarm to attach the balljoint the car goes up in the air. and don't forget to back of the adjusting bolts before removing t-bars. | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | I think the screw up was uppon dissasembly. I pulled appart the upper and lower control arms and pretty much everything else attached to the k member before I adjusted the pressure off the TB adjusters, the LCA were last to come off and at that point were not holding any pressure on the bars, when I went to loosen the adjusters they just popped out of the way and the rear TB mounts wiggled free of the car so the adjusters still had full thread engagment from being tightened years ago. When I re-installed the bars I put them into the (still up in the air) LCA's and then back into the rear mounts, the adjusters were already screwed in most of the way and layed into the cradles without any problems, BUT, they only took a couple more twists of the adjusters to tighten them up, hence, not enough pressure/twist. As far as the L&R markings being towards the front or rear, I used my (still original) 58 2door wagon parts car for reference, it has the bars installed with the part#'s forward. Any further thoughts on this? | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Got the TB bars to work, it was simple, I had to bring the adjusters all the way down and spin the rear mounts so that the adjuster cradle was nearest to the floor, then I simply tightened up the adjusters again and it works fine now. Before I started with the rear mount adjuster cradles dropped all the way to the frame towards the ground (duh) and the adjusters couldn't pull them down enough to twist them any. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7498 Location: northern germany | Scott Smith Harms - 2009-10-10 2:02 PM As far as the L&R markings being towards the front or rear, I used my (still original) 58 2door wagon parts car for reference, it has the bars installed with the part#'s forward. Any further thoughts on this? R goes to the RIGHT L goes to the LEFT. part numbers or L/R toward front or rear is not important of course. | ||
abqcarl |
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Regular Posts: 75 | Scott Smith Harms - 2009-04-02 6:26 PM I get the picture, oh well, leave it stock for now I guess. If I swap engines it will be to one of these, I have a freshly restored one carbs to pan with exhaust from a 60 300F in the garage just begging for a new home! ;) So why are you worrying about the stock motor??? I would love to have that engine in my '57 DeSoto. Get that thing in there!! | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Well my original plan (having discovered that the old beast actually ran) was to just toss a tune up and fresh brakes at it and enjoy it for the summer and do an engine swap later on. But.......... as can happen with these projects my original plan snow balled into a complete front end and brake rebuild, a completely new wire harness, radiator rebuilt, gas tank and fuel system refurbish, and rebuilding more engine accesories than I had originally planned on. Then of course finding parts has been a nightmare and time consuming.....POOF! Summers over, it's 19 degrees outside this am! So.........I figure I'll keep tinkering with small stuff over the winter and possibly yank the 301 for a 413 swap next summer. Maybe I'll just leave it stock, it's kind of grown on me over time, the little 301 is a neat little putt-putt engine. We'll see how I feel about it come springtime. (57 Wagon October 10 2009.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57 Wagon October 10 2009.jpg (215KB - 322 downloads) | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Looking at your pix, I'd leave the 301 in there and consider a 4bbl and a cam to get the most go-fast and fuel economy out of it. To me, what a car like this has going for it is charm. Kind of a hard to quantify asset, but it is the stripper trim, the dog dishies, that sort of thing. I'd ditch those white stripes and get some correct Rayon blackwalls and that thing would be cute as a button. The monster motor is just all too predictable in a two-door wagon. When was the last time you saw a sedan delivery without Cragars and a big, gawdy engine ? At some point it become cliche. I'd stick with the original charm. BTW - is that color original ? Funny, but it was 19 degrees up here on the hill too !!!! This cold is putting the ki-bosh on my shop project. Better buck up and get to it though. I want a roof over my junk before the snows bury me again. | ||
B/G 61 |
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Expert Posts: 2612 Location: Parts Unknown | Doctor DeSoto - 2009-10-11 4:10 PM Looking at your pix, I'd leave the 301 in there and consider a 4bbl and a cam to get the most go-fast and fuel economy out of it. To me, what a car like this has going for it is charm. Kind of a hard to quantify asset, but it is the stripper trim, the dog dishies, that sort of thing. I'd ditch those white stripes and get some correct Rayon blackwalls and that thing would be cute as a button. The monster motor is just all too predictable in a two-door wagon. When was the last time you saw a sedan delivery without Cragars and a big, gawdy engine ? At some point it become cliche. I'd stick with the original charm. Yea, I know you have been collecting that Long Ram stuff for a while now, but I agree with Doc - THEN AGAIN, it is your car (wagon) so do what you want with it . . . | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Yea, the tires are just some skids I put on to get it on all 4's again, the previous tires were just a mismatched set of goofy looking low profile jobs that wouldn't even hold air. These are new, and while not cheap ($410.00 mounted and balanced) at least it rolls level for now and I can always use them as rollers for my Duster later on. Some proper tires will be purchased next summer. The original color is AHH on the code tag (It's a silvery blue/gray light metallic color) sort of reminds me of Winchester Gray used on 71 Mopars. I've never seen an original car that color, sort of bland looking but it could be ok I suppose. I think the car may have been used as some kind of Air Force car, it was located near a base in Arizona so who knows? You can see the original paint under the tail lamp housing, looks like gray primer but it's not. (Original color.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Original color.jpg (91KB - 281 downloads) | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | Sand Dune White roof with a Silver Charcoal body, interesting color combination. Someone changed the color on my car too, I wonder why there were so many people dissatisfied with their cheapie 2dr wagon color schemes! (1957-plymouth-pc.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1957-plymouth-pc.jpg (69KB - 788 downloads) | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | That Silver Charcoal on the sample page doesn't look anything like the color showing under his tail light. One is almost black, the other a very light color. Are we sure that is the right code ? Did the car get painted a new color BEFORE it got that rust color ? Wagons seem to suffer from a difficult to design roofline. So many are really ugly. A few are really quite stunning though. I never thought Exner got the roof right on the 57-59 4-door wagons like they did with the HT wagons in 60, .... or GM did in 57-58. However, the 57-59 2-door wagon roof is so light and airy with those skinny pillars, it really echos the Googie trends of gravity defying forces holding it up. Always liked those 2-door wagons ! I have long considered a major custom build using a 2-door wagon body, grafted into a full size 57-58 DeSoto, using the regular passenger car fins. That would be the best of all worlds ! | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | No, that's original paint for sure, and it's everywhere, firewall, etc. The color changes depending on the light, it can look lighter in bright sun but it's generally a medium shade of metallic gray, sort of an "elephant gray". Not the most attractive color IMO but with a white roof, a factory B&W interior and some whitewall tires it might just look pretty sharp. If restored to stock in those colors I bet a set of true spoke wire wheels would really set it off! | ||
narleycharlie |
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Expert Posts: 1812 Location: Slidell La. | Cool car you got yourself there . My 59 Plymouth sat up for 10 years before I got it . I got it running and drove the wheels off it ,had a poly 318 . From sitting up , all the engine seals dried up and I left a snail trail everywhere I went . Trans front seal and engine front and rear mains leaked really bad . Ruined the driveway , future x wife wasn t/aint happy (WTF). | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | Notice there is an alternate paint code for LA-built cars, meaning it's a slightly different color. Look at your car's trim tag Scott, it is located in the engine compartment, on the passenger's side upper cowl area. If it was built in LA, it would have this style trim tag, and would also be a slightly different (apparently lighter! ) shade of gray. Would be spectacular in that color scheme btw... (57burbtt.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57burbtt.jpg (74KB - 264 downloads) | ||
dukeboy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6203 Location: Big pimpin' | Dump the Big Block Cross Ram motor in it...Wagons with huge engines are cool....Especially with the dog dishes and WWW tires....Love it....I bet that car raises more eyebrows with that engine in it than the 301.....Bet. Edited by dukeboy 2009-10-13 12:23 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | The alternative PNT coding , between L.A. & Detroit, may just be that: coding difference, for maybe a different paint formulation, but to produce the same paint color. Brent, if you look at Danny's paint chip selector's sheet-color, it looks like the actual chip-colors' representations are a tad 'off'--like, in/for that shade of Sand Dune White . I also agree upon the modification of the OEM engine; if I read your posts correctly, you still have the OEM engine block, plus a spare engine? Either engine will need a rebuild, so, after a boring out of the OEM engine block, you can investigate getting a slightly taller piston (it can still be flat-topped) to increase the compression ratio. A Poly head is a very economical design; get them ported & polished, with a nice bottom-end cut camshaft, and balance the crankshaft, and install a rebuilt WCFB carb, or even 3 dueces, and a set of glass-packs, with 2 1/4" aluminized pipes, and you'll be good to GO. BTW, probably very few of us, having an OEM engine in our cars, realize that the thermostat housings are probably very badly corroded, beneath the area where the upper radiator hose connects to it. Your spare engine looks like its T-stat housing is still in decent condition. Edited by d500neil 2009-10-13 2:22 PM | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Yes, correct, the car still has it's original engine that runs well, and I found an identical spare 301 and auto trans out of a running driving 57 Savoy for $300.00 (delivered to my door no less!). So, spare OEM parts are plentiful if needed, and yes, BOTH thermostat housings are still good, I blasted the one off the spare engine and it had some minor corrosion but it's still solid all the way. Here is my body tag (Trim Tag 57 Plymouth.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Trim Tag 57 Plymouth.jpg (100KB - 347 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I don't know WHEN that P/T plate-car was actually built, but is has a VERY-very late Scheduled 1957 build date! Boy, Danny & Scott should definitely go get their cars' IBM card copies. Late 57 Dodges received the 1958 Dodge dashboards; Scott, does your car have the 57 dash, or the 58 one? (rear view mirror location at forward/rear of the dash, respectively). Edited by d500neil 2009-10-13 4:19 PM | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | I'm awaiting a response from Chrysler Historical. How long does it take for them to respond to inquiries? I just wanted to make sure the service is still available before sending them $90. Do you think his or mine is possibly a 1956 date? I ask because the body numbers are far different, the tag is slightly different (headers) and mine indicates Chrysler WCD-LA and his is just Chrysler. Now that I look at it, mine may be an extremely EARLY car because the VIN is 25222664, and LA production started with 25215001, a difference of 7,663. Is it possible mine is one of the first 10,000 FL Mopars produced? Hmmm. Edited by 57burb 2009-10-13 4:23 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | It's $90-bux, now?????--you should get it w/i 2 weeks of order, I hope. Back in the 90's, you/I could get as many different cars' cards, as 'we' wanted (& I got 10+ cards, probably, for various 56-59 D500s) for $15.00 each. ....Well, all shall be revealed, when you get your IBM card copy. Edited by d500neil 2009-10-13 4:24 PM | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | Two cars, $45 ea | ||
59CRL |
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Expert Posts: 2679 | Doctor DeSoto - 2009-10-11 4:10 PM Looking at your pix, I'd leave the 301 in there and consider a 4bbl and a cam to get the most go-fast and fuel economy out of it. To me, what a car like this has going for it is charm. Kind of a hard to quantify asset, but it is the stripper trim, the dog dishies, that sort of thing. I'd ditch those white stripes and get some correct Rayon blackwalls and that thing would be cute as a button. The monster motor is just all too predictable in a two-door wagon. When was the last time you saw a sedan delivery without Cragars and a big, gawdy engine ? At some point it become cliche. I'd stick with the original charm. BTW - is that color original ? Funny, but it was 19 degrees up here on the hill too !!!! This cold is putting the ki-bosh on my shop project. Better buck up and get to it though. I want a roof over my junk before the snows bury me again. I would keep the 301 also, cuz it is a rare engine and most people other than Mopar guys, have never heard of a 301 poly. Chrome out the engine too. I would go with white letter tires like BF Goodrich and chrome smoothie rims. | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Mine has the 57 Dash (gauge cluster is B&W numbers on the gauge faces, my 58 has greenish numbers). I think the mirror is located further forward on the 57 but I'll have to check some old pics to be sure, it's currently out of the car. My 57 also has the lower grille without the add on filler bars, I was told this was a feature of an early car? It is possible that it's been replaced, the passenger fender was replaced at one time due to an accident so it's possible it got replaced as well with an earlier used one. Edited by Scott Smith Harms 2009-10-13 10:29 PM | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Ok, so I spent some more money on it, going with a 354 Hemi. I posted about it on another thread but figured I'd add it here to keep this thread alive. (354 Before D.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 354 Before D.jpg (207KB - 275 downloads) | ||
Finsinthemirror |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1124 Location: CA | the paint color chips are very misleading. the silver charcoal poly looks much closer to a turquoise in real life. | ||
suburban61 |
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Expert Posts: 1480 Location: Australia | i agree... the original colour chips are way off... the colour of my suburban is carnival red, and the colour chips make it look like its a dirty red/ brown colour... and then you look at photos in the original sales literature and magazines and it looks like an orange/red... but matching it with the front window recess and under the paint under the tailgate crank it came up a real deep red, which in my opinion looks alot better than that of the colour chips or the literature... the colours in photos can lie depending on the light source....also with the sales literature the paper/ printing quality was not at its best 40-50 years ago, not to mention how it has most probably deteriorated with age... adriana | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Scott Smith Harms - 2010-02-16 11:16 PM Ok, so I spent some more money on it, going with a 354 Hemi. I posted about it on another thread but figured I'd add it here to keep this thread alive. *************************************** My memory is fuzzy on this, but I think the Imperial valve covers are unembossed, with only the spark plug wire covers being marked? By doing a mix-n-match, you can get an unmarked top end, to then decal as you please. Some custom made period looking decals ID'ing the engine as a "HY-FIRE V-8" would look pretty cool on those valve covers. Really confuse the idiot / know-it-alls too !!!! | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | 57 IMP's had the "Chrysler Firepower" embossed on them. The 58 IMP's got "Imperial" embossed onto their VC's. | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | The only un-stamped original Chrysler Hemi valve covers were found on Dodge trucks from '57-59. They were painted or stickered as "POWER GIANT 354" but no stamping. All passenger cars were stamped "Chrysler FirePower", except as Neil has noted, the '58 Imperials which are stamped "IMPERIAL". Edited by 57burb 2010-02-16 4:19 PM (116_0704_03_z+1958_dodge_700_truck+valve_cover.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 116_0704_03_z+1958_dodge_700_truck+valve_cover.jpg (79KB - 288 downloads) | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Well, there you go ! The Forward Look Network, ever at the ready ! | ||
Dan C |
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Veteran Posts: 122 Location: Ocean Shores, WA | Scott, Wow, the red/white wagon sure looks familar! Dan C | ||
Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | It should, it was blackberry bush planter box yard ornament at your place for a while A? Love your white one! (57PSubDeLuxe.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57PSubDeLuxe.jpg (96KB - 309 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I've never previously seen the 354 Dodge truck valve covers having that 'metallic' applique on it/them. I'd bet that that engine was a vintage 1959, as the various 59 Mopes seemed to have had appliques be installed on their VC's . Scott, hope that you stick with having a 301 engine in your car--either the OEM guy or the replacement motor/trannie you found. You could, always, build-up/dress-up that 301 engine, and even install some glass packs onto its dual exhausts. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6552 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | wagon blue 58 an Dans 57 Edited by mstrug 2011-06-26 10:34 AM (58PSubSport.jpg) (58plydanny-wagon_fortworth016.jpg) (58subblue2dr.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 58PSubSport.jpg (62KB - 254 downloads) 58plydanny-wagon_fortworth016.jpg (77KB - 461 downloads) 58subblue2dr.jpg (65KB - 283 downloads) | ||
dickjwa |
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New User Posts: 2 | Hi, what is the secret to getting the fuel filler off the gas tank so I can remove the tank ? Thank you for any help. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7819 Location: Williams California | The fuel filler is probably stuck at the O-ring, hopefully not with rust build up. I remove the three screws, then liberally spray penetrant o0n the sides of the fill tube, then wiggle and pry upwards carefully. Sometimes these can be really stubborn. ---John | ||
ArnieC1958 |
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New User Posts: 3 | Nice car.
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