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Lug Bolt to Lug Nut Conversion Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Brakes, Wheels and Tires | Message format |
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | I'm sure it's been addressed here somewhere, but I can't find it. I have a stock '56 Plaza that I want to change to aftermarket "mags" that use a shank style nut. What is the simplest and most common way for users here to do that? I'll eventually be upgrading the rear to a later, sturdier 8.75" unit, and the front can have a drum swap, but for now I just want to add some good wheels without "reinventing" it. ;-) I have found conversions studs that will work for the right side, but for the left, I have not yet been able to locate any LH thread. Does anyone know of a source, or a special lug bolt that will work with a shank/shoulder-style mag? Please advise. Thanks!!! | ||
Old Ray |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 510 Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | Change the front hub/drum to a right hand threaded one, I think they both should be the same other then the thread and maybe change the rear axle to RH studs if possible. Unfortunately simplest and most common way doesn't exist (or cheapest) with old cars. | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | There has to be an easier way than that. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3802 Location: NorCal | Get a 3-foot length of all-thread and cut the lengths needed to make individual studs. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/left-hand-threaded-studs/left-hand... | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9883 Location: So. Cal | Hopefully grade B7 is sufficient hardness for that application. I would prefer to use a grade 8 there. | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | Nice thought, but I would never trust that, even with a flathead 6... Need rolled threads. Thanks, though! | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | I've answered my own question, at least I hope so... I have purchased some 4.5" X 5' X 1" wheel spacers. I plan to bolt the spacers to the drums with the original tapered lug bolts, then I will have 5 nice RH studs to add whatever mags I choose (probably some old original Torq Thrusts). Side "benefit" is a 2" overall increase in track. I might run into clearance issues, but I doubt it given the size tires I plan to use. Please understand this is just an "intermediary" step, God willing, I will swap to a later year rear, front discs, etc when I install the 392, and obviate the need. This is just a step along the way of my Plaza adventure!!! | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9883 Location: So. Cal | You'll want to use custom headers when you swap to a 392. That's what I did when I installed the 331 into my '56 Savoy. Manifolds don't work well. I'm not sure which is worse, wheel spacers or the grade b7 studs. You'll need a '65-'67 B-body rear when you swap to a later 8 3/4. That's what I use on mine. | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3068 Location: N.W. Fla. | When I put the 331 in my '60 Plym I used ex mans that pointed towards the oil pan. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3802 Location: NorCal | Elmore - 2024-03-26 5:21 PM Nice thought, but I would never trust that, even with a flathead 6... Need rolled threads. Thanks, though! Try this: https://www.rolledthreads.com/products/studs/ | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | That's good news on the '65 B-body rear. I have those "in stock"!!! | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9883 Location: So. Cal | When you swap in the newer rear, remove the spring perches from your old rear and weld them to the new axle. They are narrower in width than the newer ones and doing this will save you a lot of headache. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3802 Location: NorCal | Powerflite - 2024-04-06 4:29 AM When you swap in the newer rear, remove the spring perches from your old rear and weld them to the new axle. They are narrower in width than the newer ones and doing this will save you a lot of headache. When relocating the perches the pinion angle also needs to be corrected. Better choice is the '65-'69 C-body...it's a virtual drop-in needing only a longer brake hose to complete the installation. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9883 Location: So. Cal | No, not true John! The C-body is too wide for the '55-'56 Dodge/Plymouth. The narrow '65-'67 B-body is a much better fit if you don't want to run custom offset wheels that won't look right. Also, the '56 Plymouth rear has a 41" spring perch separation. The 46" C-body is not even close to being able to work as a drop in. You must be thinking of '57-'61. Edited by Powerflite 2024-04-06 1:13 PM | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3802 Location: NorCal | Powerflite - 2024-04-06 10:09 AM No, not true John! The C-body is too wide for the '55-'56 Dodge/Plymouth. The narrow '65-'67 B-body is a much better fit if you don't want to run custom offset wheels that won't look right. Also, the '56 Plymouth rear has a 41" spring perch separation. The 46" C-body is not even close to being able to work as a drop in. You must be thinking of '57-'61. You're right. Senior moment, was thinking '57-later. | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | 57chizler - 2024-04-06 12:28 PM When relocating the perches the pinion angle also needs to be corrected. Better choice is the '65-'69 C-body...it's a virtual drop-in needing only a longer brake hose to complete the installation. No kidding? I have a spare one out of my '69 Newport convertible with a 489/3.23 literally sitting under my shed! Just needs an axle seal. I would have thought that one would be too wide for the '56. Have you done this swap? Have any pictures? Thanks! | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | Powerflite - 2024-04-06 1:09 PM No, not true John! The C-body is too wide for the '55-'56 Dodge/Plymouth. The narrow '65-'67 B-body is a much better fit if you don't want to run custom offset wheels that won't look right. Also, the '56 Plymouth rear has a 41" spring perch separation. The 46" C-body is not even close to being able to work as a drop in. You must be thinking of '57-'61. That's what I was thinking, but I'm open to any and all ideas!!! | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | 57chizler - 2024-04-07 4:26 PM Powerflite - 2024-04-06 10:09 AM No, not true John! The C-body is too wide for the '55-'56 Dodge/Plymouth. The narrow '65-'67 B-body is a much better fit if you don't want to run custom offset wheels that won't look right. Also, the '56 Plymouth rear has a 41" spring perch separation. The 46" C-body is not even close to being able to work as a drop in. You must be thinking of '57-'61. You're right. Senior moment, was thinking '57-later. Well, bummer, I should have read all the comments. I kinda figured that anyway! | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | I ended up sourcing these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/235501565747 for the left-hand (grade 8, had to cut and dress), and readily available screw-in conversion studs for the right-hand. I distorted a row of threads on the cut-down ones so they won't screw in too deep. and I plan to clean and apply red Loctite. It's looking like with the mags I'm running, I MIGHT not even have to remove the pin (they are recessed between the stud holes). Wish me luck! I nixed the idea of the spacers, I think that would have made things too wide and the tires rub. Also, I got them cheap, and the hub register is too small, I'd have to put them on the lathe. Edited by Elmore 2024-05-10 12:30 PM | ||
Elmore |
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Member Posts: 35 | Elmore - 2024-05-10 12:29 PM I MIGHT not even have to remove the pin (they are recessed between the stud holes). Wish me luck! I never get lucky! I spent the whole day chiseling off pins and grinding down rivets. Mag equipped now, though!!! | ||
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