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1956 Plymouth - My First Forward Look Car! Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Jaxsonp10 |
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Member Posts: 5 | Hello The Forward Look Network! I've been searching for a 1956 Plymouth Savoy for the last year or so, and I finally found one a few weeks ago! It was listed out in KY, about 500 miles from me. I borrowed a truck and trailer and snatched it up, it was my first time hauling a car, and it was one heck of an adventure. Unfortunately when I arrived, I learned the engine was stuck; however, the underside was largely rust free, so I felt fine purchasing the car (and after driving all the way there, I wasn't about to leave empty handed!) I've had the car home now for a couple weeks. I've started to revive the paint and have had some good success, however I have had less luck with the engine. I'm going to pull the engine and transmission soon, next weekend probably. Should be a fun experience! I've been trying to schedule having the highway patrol come out for an ID/OD inspection, excited to get it titled in my name. If anyone has any guides or resources for 277 poly rebuilds and transmission refreshes, especially lists of parts that'll fit, I'd greatly appreciate it! I've got the factory service manual, but I'm always looking to do more research! For those curious and for those who can tell me more about the car: Vin: 22300783 Body Code: 201-E 21073 Engine Code: P29-241499 (Front.jpg) (Side Profile - As Purchased.jpg) (Side Profile.jpg) (277 Poly.jpg) (Shifter.jpg) (VIN.jpg) (Body Number.jpg) (Engine Code.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Front.jpg (298KB - 49 downloads) Side Profile - As Purchased.jpg (392KB - 44 downloads) Side Profile.jpg (417KB - 129 downloads) 277 Poly.jpg (471KB - 72 downloads) Shifter.jpg (147KB - 57 downloads) VIN.jpg (143KB - 45 downloads) Body Number.jpg (427KB - 77 downloads) Engine Code.jpg (375KB - 48 downloads) | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4110 Location: Connecticut | Nice score in a great color combo ! Before going down that rabbit hole and pulling the engine, I would follow the recommended procedure for freeing up a stuck engine. Put some Marvel Mystery Oil down the spark plug holes after removing the plugs. Let it sit for a week or more. Attach a 3/4" breaker bar and socket to the crank bolt. Hold the breaker bar tight as you hit the side of the breaker bar clock wise, then counter clock wise. Do this a few times a day. People have freed up the nastiest engines by using this method. Be patient and you'll save yourself a lot of grief and money. Also, change the oil. Ron | ||
Jaxsonp10 |
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Member Posts: 5 | Thanks Ron! It's exactly the model, engine, transmission, and color I was looking for, so I'm pretty over the moon! Sorry I didn't elaborate further in the OP, but I have already been down that road and since given up (I used ATF+Acetone, instead of marvel, however). It's stuck very, very tight. I let it sit for a week and I couldn't even get a wiggle out of it! I even used an old compression tester air tube to make sure I got lots and lots of fluid in there, but to no avail. I took a look down each cylinder with a borescope, and I didn't see any rust or water intrusion, luckily. I think it'll probably be better to pull the engine for a rebuild anyways, since I've got some pretty lofty reliability goals in mind. I'd hate to get it unstuck, only to find out there was crud in an oil gally and wipe a cam lobe! It would have been really awesome to have it run for at least a moment or two, however... Thanks for the advice! | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9883 Location: So. Cal | Congratulations, that's a great looking Savoy! I would recommend pulling the heads first before you pull the engine. With the heads pulled, you should be able to clean out whatever crud is in there, causing it to stick, and fix any stuck valves (most likely the problem). While you have the heads off, get a good valve job done on them, replace the valve springs, inspect the cam & bore to determine if it's worth trying to run it by just putting the heads back on. In my opinion, I would also take the opportunity to replace the cam with a stronger version at the same time. This is what the original seat fabric looks like. (56 Savoy Blue Seat Material.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56 Savoy Blue Seat Material.jpg (229KB - 42 downloads) | ||
22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 696 Location: Finland | I have pulled and at least reringed and reshelled the engine in every 60+ years old car I have had , stuck or not. Then you can get rid of the engine killing crud lurching inside the engine. Give the engine an opportunity to live a long life and go through everything. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7498 Location: northern germany | Nice!!!!!! Congratulations! Love the color combo | ||
ClassicCars |
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Member Posts: 49 | Congratulations on your find. It looks like a beautiful car in great condition. I'm going through the same thing right now on my 1959 Coronet engine....it's only been a couple of days so I'm still hopeful my mixture of 50/50 diesel/atf fluid will work. You can also remove the valve covers and used a rubber mallet to bang on the valves to see if any are stuck. I did this and luckily all were free. You can also rotate the push rods to make sure that's not an issue as well as removing the starter and making sure it's not in gear. I know you are already moving on to pulling the engine so these are tips for the next car!! Take care and good luck!! | ||
ClassicCars |
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Member Posts: 49 | Congratulations on your find. It looks like a beautiful car in great condition. I'm going through the same thing right now on my 1959 Coronet engine....it's only been a couple of days so I'm still hopeful my mixture of 50/50 diesel/atf fluid will work. You can also remove the valve covers and used a rubber mallet to bang on the valves to see if any are stuck. I did this and luckily all were free. You can also rotate the push rods to make sure that's not an issue as well as removing the starter and making sure it's not in gear. I know you are already moving on to pulling the engine so these are tips for the next car!! Take care and good luck!! | ||
ClassicCars |
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Member Posts: 49 | Congratulations on your find. It looks like a beautiful car in great condition. I'm going through the same thing right now on my 1959 Coronet engine....it's only been a couple of days so I'm still hopeful my mixture of 50/50 diesel/atf fluid will work. You can also remove the valve covers and used a rubber mallet to bang on the valves to see if any are stuck. I did this and luckily all were free. You can also rotate the push rods to make sure that's not an issue as well as removing the starter and making sure it's not in gear. I know you are already moving on to pulling the engine so these are tips for the next car!! Take care and good luck!! | ||
Jaxsonp10 |
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Member Posts: 5 | Thanks Powerflite! Most of my interior is complete, though the previous owners had sew on a large patch on the drivers seat in a different fabric. Both the original fabric and the patch have both come apart, exposing the cotton batting. Luckily there's more than enough material to make up some patterns when the time comes. The rear seats are in much better shape, some seams are separating on the seat back, but nothing terrible. It all smells like an antique mall, though! Ralf, I'm inching closer to pulling the engine every evening, chipping away at it. I've got most of the top side out and disconnected, I'm going to pull of the fuel pump and try working towards the exhaust manifolds tomorrow, I'm hoping they don't fight me too badly. I pulled off the driver's side valve cover and found quite a lot of black crud, as I'm sure you've seen many times. Wish me luck! Here's a low-quality photo of how the engine sits today. Rusty and Crusty! Thanks ClassicCars! I hope you have better luck than me! Thanks for the words of encouragement. (1716429097021106.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1716429097021106.jpg (329KB - 41 downloads) | ||
22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 696 Location: Finland | Good luck! Remember to remove the main oil gallery plugs so you can mechanically clean the galleries . Clean the water mantle several times with a pressure cleaner and help of a 3-4mm soft steel rod or something else useful. The back end of the watermantle is often full of crud. Don`t throw away a pile of money if you don`t have to. I have seldom machined heads , quite bad looking valves can be cleaned and hand lapped. If the cylinders look good and have a clearance less than 0,3mm you don`t have to bore it if . A proper hone is what it takes if you build a sunday driver. This of course onlu is possible if the pistons are checked for cracks or oil ring groove wear etc. These low budget ideas you can forget if you have a lot of money to spend. | ||
Jaxsonp10 |
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Member Posts: 5 | Well guys, I finally got the engine out of the car! I've never pulled an engine before, so this was a real learning experience, to say the least. Unfortunately, I bent the core support pretty badly on the crank pulley, but hopefully it won't be too hard to beat back into shape and get the hood to latch again. Hardest part, save for the actual act of removal, was getting the shift cable to come out of the transmission. It seems like over time the o-ring swelled, and would not allow it to pull out of the transmission. Had to drop the pan and remove the o-ring, total pain in the butt! Everything else was like butter. I was extremely impressed by the lack of seized bolts. Everything was easy, I broke the motor mounts loose with a 3/8 ratchet, no stress. Very excited to start the rebuild! Wish me luck! Attachments ---------------- Messenger_creation_edf42139-1bd4-43f9-9b48-040a73aa8ce1.jpeg (418KB - 60 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9883 Location: So. Cal | Good luck with the build and have fun with it. Gary Pavlovich can help you with advice and information about rebuilding these engines. He owns a '56 Savoy as well. You can reach him on Facebook. | ||
Lancer Mike |
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Location: The Mile High City | Welcome Jaxon - that's a dandy! Looks very clean and unmolested. Very, very nice!
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