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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 310
Location: Woolwich Twp, NJ (South Jersey) | I have recently completed the modifications to my engine and I am in the process of dressing it out. I used ARP studs for the heads and valve train without realizing that the valve covers hit the top of the studs. I would like to reuse my original valve covers to defer the cost of new ones and have contemplated double gaskets. The double gaskets are not enough to clear the studs. I tried resetting the studs but they are in the bottomed out position. Has anyone ever had spacers made to keep the original valve covers? Are there other options other than new covers?
Thanks, Mike
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 585
 
Location: SE Arizona | Well Mike, the first one......which of course you don't want to hear...... is going back to OE style head bolts. Yes I know that studs (along with many other race oreinted parts) are superior to the OE parts but in many instances they are overkill on a street motor (the high compressions street motors from the 60's all ran standard head bolts). At best you get bragging rights on parts that no one will see.
Your head studs fit into this catagory. Even with the raised compression your running the bolts and washers that Hot Heads sells will be more than sufficent for your motor. At $48 it's your cheapest and easiest alternative. You should be able to do one at a time and not disturb the head gaskets.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 310
Location: Woolwich Twp, NJ (South Jersey) | Mike,
Thanks for feeling my pain. LOL.
I used studs in lieu of bolts for reliability. Torquing a stud is a single axis function of stress. Bolts have to deal with two forms of stress to reach their intended loading. The stretching and twisting of bolts for loading increases the likelyhood of failure and or fatigue. Also, due to the twisting moment and stretching, bolts are not as uniform with loading as studs are. I had to have a technical reason incase my wife ever asked.
I was hoping to keep the original valve covers for the logo purposes only. I will contact HotHeads in the near future for new covers. The cost of the new covers compared to what I have put in this motor in negligable. Wow...did I say that? I must be a Hemi owner. LOL.
I just hate the idea of breaking apart / replacing the studs on this engine. When I bought my car the engine was apart in pieces. The car was in storage for 46 years in that condition and this is the first time since '58 it has been back together.
Regards,
Mike |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 585
Location: SE Arizona | "......I had to have a technical reason incase my wife ever asked......."
But can you tell her this with a straight face??????
Mike
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 310
Location: Woolwich Twp, NJ (South Jersey) | Engineer by trade - as soon I go technical the bride's selective hearing kicks in. LOL |
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Board Moderator
Posts: 3186
 
Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Mike...
Would it be possible to remove the studs one at a time and to shorten them? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 310
Location: Woolwich Twp, NJ (South Jersey) | Hank,
I considered a one at a time removal and cut but the studs are heat treated. The only way would be water cut to eliminate the use of heat. The mechanical cutting heat (grinding, saw, etc...) could embrittle the steel/alloy.
Regards,
Mike
PS: I could always stress relieve the studs in kitchen oven but my utility bills would go through the ceiling and the wife would kill me. Temp of 600F for 3-4 hours and a 100F/hr cool down. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5139
Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | Mike, just a little input from me- I think you should do what you like --but, The aluminum valve covers really do look good but is there going to be clearance problems getting them off and on when engine is in the car? I too wanted to keep the Chrysler identity--those stock valve covers have more of a WOW factor for me. Mine were in excellent condition, as yours appear to be, and I had them chrome plated. Now if you have adjustable rockers as opposed to adjustable pushrods, the stock covers will not work. On the studs, I have to agree - they are kinda hyped in all the magazine builds but I don't think necessary in mostly street engines that are not supercharged. I have run stock type headbolts in a 12:1 + 8000rpm engine with no problems ( drag racer).................................5%............... |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 827
Location: Northwest Iowa | Mike:
How much do you have to shorten the studs? ?
If you can shorten them to like 1/8 to 1/4 above the nut the heat affected zone would never create a problem with the hardened studs even if you have to shorten them to flush with the nut I myself wouldn't have any concerns with affecting the hardness of the studs.
What would you suspect the heat buildup would be if you were to use a 1/16 cut off wheel , I would guess maybe 200 degrees.
What is the draw back temp after hardening a piece of metal ? ?
I don't have my book right in front of me but as my memory serves me it is like 350 to 400 degrees.
If you were to lathe cut them the heat buildup would be considerably less.
Blacksmith Weldor repairman by trade.
Good luck:
J.W. Duhn
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 310
Location: Woolwich Twp, NJ (South Jersey) | JW,
I agree that I could get away with cutting them with a wafer wheel very slowly and cautiously. Typical conservatism on my part. Just the idea of having to back out each stud, cut & dress, then reinstall ends up becoming more work. I am becoming very anxious trying to get this engine running. I measured the bolt lenghts from the milled surfade of the rocker shaft stand support point and found the following:
Driver Side:
Intake Shaft Bolts: 3 3/32" to 3"
Exhaust Shaft Bolts: 3 17/32" to 3 15/32"
Passenger Side:
Intake Shaft Bolts: 2 31/32" to 2 29/32"
Exhaust Shaft Bolts: 3 7/16" to 3 11/32"
The dimensions have the same deltas between the highs and lows, but the cylinder head tappings are different between heads. I will use this info to confirm the new valve cover clearances w/ the folks at HotHeads. If I am going to go with new covers I think I will go with their PCV/Breather system too since I do not have a draft tube anymore.
Thanks for the help and ideas.
Regards,
Mike |
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Need help with Hemi valve cover fit
