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Veteran
Posts: 294
 
Location: Rochester, NY | 1958 Plymouth Belvedere brakes have been sticking for several years now: This is like the third time I’ve taken them apart and nothing looks really bad… just a typical amount of brake dust…I sand the shoe linings w/coarse grit, vacuum dust out of everywhere, light sand/wipe drums clean with alcohol/brake clean. I inspect everything nothing appears to be leaking. 2 times ago it got new rear wheel cylinders because they were seeping. Fluid did not appear to contaminate shoes though. Shoe linings are old but still have decent meat on them. Maybe I should replace them anyways? I don’t know. This time I repacked bearings in front too…(that’s kind of standard anyways) and put new (inner) wheel bearing seals. Pulled rear drums tonight…all looks good in there too. So I just thought I’d ask this question now…thought you guys could shed some light on why these old 4 drum fin cars are known for having sticky brakes. My Desoto is pretty much the same until I get it out and start using it again. Usually always front right likes to lock up on that one initially….Get it out drive it snd it’s gone until the next time. I always scratch my head about these vintage Mopar brakes…Thanks guys…any and all facts/opinions are welcome.
Bob |
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Veteran
Posts: 165
Location: christchurch New Zealand | Have the same issue, once used and warmed up they are fine, put them on a brake rolling machine and the hotter they got the better they were. I sometimes wonder about the lining material in the later years ? never seemed to have the problems with old asbestos linings compared to todays linings. I wonder is it a compromise of get asbestos and have great brakes , or breath healthy air and hit a tree.?
Geoff |
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Expert
Posts: 3396
 
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | On damp mornings especially my friends 59 Dodge did the same thing. Had the shoes religned by white post restoration, this cured most of the problem. Mobileparts shoes also worked well. My 55 New Yorker had very sensitive brakes on first cold application, but not lock up like the 59.
Edited by Shep 2023-04-18 8:56 AM
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Expert
Posts: 2003
Location: Branson, MO | Moisture imbeds into the linings and causes the grabbing. Driving the car and dragging the brakes will temporarily evaporate the moisture but always returns after sitting for awhile. The only way I have found to cure the problem was to replace the linings. How long the new linings last is still a mystery. I got my linings from Mobileparts.
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Expert
Posts: 3396
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Same here. Common issue with the ft. brakes until the system was redesigned. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9903
 
Location: Lower Mainland BC | Viper Guy - 2023-04-18 7:06 AM
Moisture imbeds into the linings and causes the grabbing. Driving the car and dragging the brakes will temporarily evaporate the moisture but always returns after sitting for awhile. The only way I have found to cure the problem was to replace the linings. How long the new linings last is still a mystery. I got my linings from Mobileparts.
My 56 Dodge D500 came with 56 Windsor 2.5" x 12" Total Contact drum brakes. I have the same grabby thing if I don't drive the car much in the moist Vancouver winter. One trick that Wizard (Sven) taught me was to ride the brakes a bit as I back the car out of the garage. This gets rid of some of the moisture. Once out in the alley, if the brakes grab going forward, I just reverse a few metres down the alley, riding the brakes some more. That usually cures the problem.
If not, I will just drive through the brakes until they work properly.
If I am driving the old girl on a daily basis, there are no problems.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9666
Location: So. Cal | In my experience, the drum brakes that work, always continue to work, like on my '56 Savoy. The brakes that were problematic, like on my '58 Firedome, were always problematic and I couldn't figure out how to eliminate the problem until I converted to disc brakes. They worked most of the time, but sometimes would hang and cause issues without explanation. I just lost patience with them and converted it. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9903
Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2023-04-18 11:24 AM
In my experience, the drum brakes that work, always continue to work, like on my '56 Savoy. The brakes that were problematic, like on my '58 Firedome, were always problematic.
Nathan: Your Savoy's brakes were not Total Contact Center Plane but the 58 Firedome's were.
That is one big difference.
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Veteran
Posts: 242
Location: 33844 | Lock-up is a common problem with our dual-primary front drum brakes due to the wedge effect.
This is where the dreaded "disc-brakes" discussion comes in.
For 20 years I was determined to keep my cars original, but I finally gave in and put disc-brakes.
I am sooooo glad I did. Driving now is stress-free with brakes that always work excellent.
Edited by Richbo 2023-04-24 12:42 PM
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13049
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hmmm my Saratoga '60 has been driven 170000 miles now with what seems to be the original asbestos brake shoes. No issues at all. |
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Expert
Posts: 4042
Location: Connecticut | If your brakes are 'sticking', then you may have weak return springs. Or maybe someone messed with the brake pedal push rod, which you're not supposed to do with a factory setup.
I rebuilt the brakes on my 58 Plymouth in 2008. Everything was new. Bernbaum shoes. No need to contaminate your lungs with asbestos shoe dust. Never had this problem, even if the car sat over the winter. I live in a damp climate (New England). Ron |
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Opinions wanted: As I’m working on my sticky drum brakes
