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69s1 |
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Member Posts: 48 | I have a '56 Dodge Coronet with a leaking pinion seal. I removed the nut holding the pionion shaft and expected to pull it right out. I tried but it doesn't seem to want to slide out. I stopped and thought I'd ask you folks how to remove the shaft and pinion seal and install the new seal. Never having done this before (and before I screw something up) i thought asking for advice and guidance woul be the best approach. Thanks for any help. Jerry | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3775 Location: NorCal | Some flanges can be removed by hand and some will need a puller, a claw puller will normally work. After the flange is removed, the seal replacement is pretty straight forward, just pry out the old seal and drive the new one in. I always pack the seal garter spring with grease to prevent the spring from popping off due to the jarring from driving the seal in. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 69s1 - 2018-08-27 2:03 PM I have a '56 Dodge Coronet with a leaking pinion seal. I removed the nut holding the pionion shaft and expected to pull it right out. I tried but it doesn't seem to want to slide out. I stopped and thought I'd ask you folks how to remove the shaft and pinion seal and install the new seal. Never having done this before (and before I screw something up) i thought asking for advice and guidance woul be the best approach. Sorry but it already might be too late (to not screw something up). By releasing the tension on the pinion shaft, you *might have* affected the lash between the pinion and the crown gear. Hopefully not. Have a look at this diagram (below). You probably need a seal removing tool (or hack using two metal screws after you've drilled holes in the metal part of the seal). Check Youtube for similar hacks. Edited by 56D500boy 2018-08-27 2:43 PM (RearAxleAssemblyDiagram.jpg) Attachments ---------------- RearAxleAssemblyDiagram.jpg (174KB - 226 downloads) | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3775 Location: NorCal | Of course, removing the flange nut affects the backlash but installing the flange and tightening the nut restores the backlash. The only time that removing the nut can permanently affect the backlash is if there is a crush sleeve installed and the '56 doesn't have one. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9650 Location: So. Cal | Right, the crush sleeve is used on the later 489 case. You can still remove those without damage, but you need to be REALLY careful about how tight you put it back on. You have to get it back to where it was, and not any more or less. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 57chizler - 2018-08-27 3:05 PM Of course, removing the flange nut affects the backlash but installing the flange and tightening the nut restores the backlash. The only time that removing the nut can permanently affect the backlash is if there is a crush sleeve installed and the '56 doesn't have one. On the way home from having some light blue paint matched for my car (fingers crossed, third time lucky), I stopped by my local differential shop to discuss the replacement of my 56 Dodge's rear pinion seal. https://www.iwerearendsonly.com/ I asked about the need to remove the carrier and have the lash re-set after removing the pinion nut. The fellow said, "Yes, normally, but since we have done so many pinion seals and we know rear diff's inside and out, we don't need to do that. We can retighten things without having to redo the lash. We can do the job for about $20 for the seal and 1 hour labour". Then we had a conversation about the front Detroit Ball and Trunion U-joint - I will have to source *ALL* the parts for that one. So, I'd say, getting it done professionally at a rear diff shop is a wise expenditure. (That is what I will be doing anyway). Edited by 56D500boy 2018-08-27 6:55 PM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9650 Location: So. Cal | 1 hr of labor here is about $100. I would rather do this myself in an hour on my driveway than to pay someone else $120, use gas, & one more hour of time for me to sit around twiddling my thumbs waiting for him to finish.... but that's just me. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13045 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Well, as long as it's a MoPar differential with shims and a steel spacer, the only thing to consider is to tighten the pinion nut to specs. Care should be taken not to use force or hammers while removing/installing the yoke. If it's a GM differential with the crush sleeve, then it's more of a task..... | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3775 Location: NorCal | 56D500boy - 2018-08-27 3:02 PM I asked about the need to remove the carrier and have the lash re-set after removing the pinion nut. The fellow said, "Yes, normally, but since we have done so many pinion seals and we know rear diff's inside and out, we don't need to do that. We can retighten things without having to redo the lash. That's total nonsense unless he's describing a rear with a crush sleeve which the '56 doesn't have. Without a crush sleeve, the backlash will be unchanged as long as the nut is tight...the actual torque on the nut isn't critical to maintain backlash (finger tight to 250 ft. lbs. will result in the same backlash) but the correct torque is necessary to ensure the nut remains tight. | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3393 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Correct | ||
ABloch |
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Expert Posts: 1476 Location: Pacific Northwest | I too need the pinion seal done so I called the infamous Randy's ring and pinion, being that they are close to me. I was told that to replace the crush sleeve pinion seal on my '61 8.75 would cost me 6-800 dollars. I politely hung up the phone. | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3393 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | That's what I charge in my shop for a complete rebuild, plus parts, r and i included. Edited by Shep 2018-08-28 8:29 PM | ||
Stroller |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 371 | Don't forget to put on a seal saver. The seals wear groves, new seal will leak again. | ||
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