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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 440
 
| I am in the process of installing an O.E. coaxial power steering in my 56 Dodge CRL. “Process” meaning, taking a long time. My car now has Arm Strong Steering. I have most everything ready except converting the steering wheel horn wiring. I need to take the little ring that cancels the signal off an old steering to get at the contact plate. I have soaked the pieces with Breakaway and have tried prying the ring off gently, I might add, so not to break anything. Suggestions on how to proceed would be appreciated.
Del S
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10797
 
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Del: The two-tab cancelling ring is held to the steering wheel hub basically by friction (and maybe in your case, corrosion) *AND* a little peening at the tab that fits into the groove on the hub.
The ring can be/has to be pried off. Try not to damage that insulating rubber bushing.
REFERENCE POST: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=69539&...
Good luck.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 440
| I'm om it, Doing just that. along with a few blue words.
Del |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10797
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Try a 1" wide putty knife under ring/above the rubber. And bend back the tab (a bit) away from the groove in the hub.
Slowly slowly.
Not sure if tapping the cancelling tangs a bit to the left/right might help.
Also not sure how you got a photo that large to load. Here is a smaller (1024 x 768) version.
Edited by 56D500boy 2025-07-21 3:32 PM
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DelsSpareSteeringWheelAndCancellaitonRing_1024.jpg (147KB - 169 downloads)
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 440
| It was a chore to get the cancellation ring off as it was rusted on pretty tight. an overnight soaking in a penetrating oil and then sanding off the rust ridge along with a great big screw driver for a pry bar. The copper contact plate was pretty corroded, a bit of Hand cleaner and 400 grit paper cleaned it up A new wire to replace the rock hard wire. The Insulator on the contact plate was in piece before I started to remove the cancellation ring, so what to do. I dug through my drawers and found my supply of "1-1/2" Fire Hose Seals". A bit large in diameter. I cat a piece out and squeezed it in. The thickness is about 0.020" thicker than the O.E. insulation which I don't think will make any difference as the rubber is soft and will squeeze down.
Del
Edited by dels56 2025-07-25 12:08 PM
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Expert
Posts: 4189
Location: Connecticut | Del - Does the Fire Hose Seal have a lip on both sides ? That would be essential for it to work successfully. If so, can you provide a link where we can find these seals ? This is an issue for all us restorers, where the seal has brittled off, causing the horn to blow constantly. Finding a NOS contact plate with a good seal can be tough. Ron |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 440
| Yes it does! I will post a photo of a seal when I get back to my shop. I buy the seals for my fire suppression system from a Hose and Fitting distributor. In B.C. it is New Line Hose.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 440
| Photo of 1-1/2" Fire Hose Coupling Gasket. I will need to phone the supplier tomorrow to get the part number as I cannot find my invoice.
I cut a piece out of the ring to fit the contact plate. The fire hose gasket is 0.010" on each side and the groove is wider but it squashes down enough when the cancel ring is pressed back on.
Del
Edited by dels56 2025-08-05 10:56 PM
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