|
|
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Silver Point, TN | Looking for some ideas on filler neck removal on my 60 Dodge wagon. It does not want to come out of the tank. According to the "Factory Service Manual" there should be a rubber grommet the filler neck fits into, mine will not break free. Been spraying it inside and out with penetrating oil for last 2 months, still won't budge. Tank needs to come out to patch hole and be cleaned.
What can I use to help dissolve the seal between tank and filler neck?
(filler.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- filler.jpg (88KB - 189 downloads)
|
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 507
Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | If you think that it is a rust build up, a product that has phosphoric acid in it like CLR or other rust remover might help ? |
|
|
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 9922
Location: Lower Mainland BC | I know nothing about 1960 Dodges, sedans or suburbans (wagons). However, I do have access to fuel system diagrams and parts numbers (but only from 55-58) that give me the idea that the filler tube was *NOT* an integral part of the fuel tank, i.e. filler tube has a separate PN. From your photo, I think I see that the tube wants to be removed from the top, not go down towards the tank. Is there no rubber coupler at the tank where the filler tube comes down to the tank?
Tank and (filler) tube have separate listings in this diagram and parts list. I would think that 1960 might still be the same idea. (or not). Look for the coupler.
Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-08 11:37 AM
(14860FuelTankDiagram.jpg)
(14860FuelTankPNs.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- 14860FuelTankDiagram.jpg (102KB - 187 downloads) 14860FuelTankPNs.jpg (207KB - 193 downloads)
|
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 496
| If you pull the tail light out (can't tell if you have done that in the photo), you will have access to the tube/tank connection. On mine, I left the tube screwed into the 1/4 panel and pulled the tank down, away from the tube.
Aaron |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Silver Point, TN | Thanks for the insight. As you can imagine I've been trying all approaches. I too thought I had it by removing the tail light housing, but if you look in the photo there is the filler neck and an additional housing surrounding the filler neck, blocking access to filler neck inside rear fender well. It has to come out straight up. I've used long screw drivers to tap all around the seal area, but it all sounds like steel to me. FSM states there is a seal in there, so I believe it is just rusted tight. I've tried twisting with pipe wrenches, prying with crow bars, making a special "T" handle gas cap to twist it out to break seal. Obviously you can only go so far before the difficult to replace part is destroyed. I'll try "CLR" |
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406
Location: Hilltown, PA | C-300 - 2018-10-08 12:34 PM
If you pull the tail light out (can't tell if you have done that in the photo), you will have access to the tube/tank connection. On mine, I left the tube screwed into the 1/4 panel and pulled the tank down, away from the tube.
Aaron
Best advice you'll get.
Why try to pull a fragile tube/flange to separate a frozen joint? Support the tank, unbolt the straps, and let the weight of the tank (and your help) separate the frozen (and undoubtedly harder-than-granite) rubber coupler while the entire body of the car supports that thin flange.
Gregg |
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 309
Location: Western Colorado | I'm not positive that the 1960 is the same as a 1958 but the pictures look the same. This is what is on a 58 New Yorker wagon.
The smaller fill neck goes directly into the tank and seals with the small rubber o-ring. The larger piece seals against the inner part of the body/wheel well and at the top. The large o-ring fits in a groove in the inner part of the wheel well allowing the spilled fuel to run down and out over the fuel tank. The large o-ring seals so fuel won't run into the inner wheel well area stinking up the inside of the car.
If you can get lubricant between the two pieces, it should run down and lubricate the o-ring that seals the filler tube going into the tank. You might also try carb cleaner to soften the o-ring. I think if you use a couple of wooden blocks, on the body as a fulcrum point, you should be able to pry up on the inner lip of the fuel fill pipe. This area is double thick so it won't bend as easily as trying to pry up on the 3 little flanges. Twisting on it probably won't help much since the curvature of the neck only allows about 1/8th inch movement.
Since the fuel tank sits on a support mount, just releasing the single fuel tank strap won't do much unless you remove the entire mount assembly. This can be a real pain but if you are pulling the tank anyway, it might help.
If you do remove the outer larger piece, be very careful of the large o-ring/seal that fits in the groove in the body. I had to special order mine from a o-ring manufacturer and it over 6 months to get it. When you reinstall the larger piece, be sure you use/make a good gasket to seal it, so fuel doesn't run down into the body.
Hope this helps.
Bob
If you do ruin your filler neck, I'll sell you my spare for $10.00 plus freight, if it is the same part.
Edited by rebel 2018-10-08 3:59 PM
(Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 001.JPG)
(Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 002.JPG)
(Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 003.JPG)
(Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 004.JPG)
Attachments ---------------- Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 001.JPG (107KB - 191 downloads) Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 002.JPG (119KB - 184 downloads) Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 003.JPG (110KB - 187 downloads) Chrysler wagon fuel fill neck 004.JPG (131KB - 176 downloads)
|
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Silver Point, TN | Thanks for the insight. As you can imagine I've been trying all approaches. I too thought I had it by removing the tail light housing, but if you look in the photo there is the filler neck and an additional housing surrounding the filler neck, blocking access to filler neck inside rear fender well. It has to come out straight up. I've used long screw drivers to tap all around the seal area, but it all sounds like steel to me. FSM states there is a seal in there, so I believe it is just rusted tight. I've tried twisting with pipe wrenches, prying with crow bars, making a special "T" handle gas cap to twist it out to break seal. Obviously you can only go so far before the difficult to replace part is destroyed. I'll try "CLR", it'll come loose eventually. |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Silver Point, TN | Rebel,
I'd wager 1960 dodge wagon is identical to a 58 Chrysler from your photos. Thank you for the offer of your spare, I may need it. I'm not sure if the filler tube will slide out with the tank from the bottom if I cut the tabs off, gas tank looks like it needs to slide horizontally into wheel well before it drops out. I hate to cut up a good part. |
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 429
Location: Ohio | The filler neck on the 1960-61 wagons looks identical to the photo of the one posted by rebel
The smaller inner filler tube fits into a metal collar on top of the tank which can rust / fuse the pipe to the tank.
To remove a tank I had tried everything that you’re going through to no avail. In the end the only way to remove the tank was to ruin the 3 mounting tabs on the inner filler tube at top of fender then drop tank out.
Even with the tank out and applying penetrant over & over the tube would still not budge.
Rebel can you provide the name of the company that you found for the replacement “O” ring ?
It would be good to have some spares that aren’t all dried out.
|
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 309
Location: Western Colorado | The hydraulic shop that had found, and ordered, the large seal ring has been out of business for years. I searched the web and couldn't find anything with a large enough cross section in o-rings, but you can get Buna-N cord stock that is 1/2" or 5/8" diameter and then make your own seal ring. I "think" the seal that I got was 5/8" cross section. I know I had a heck of a time getting it in the groove and then getting the pipe inside it. No way it will ever leak though.
Bob
dmacTN; I'll send you a PM
Chas; I'll also send you a PM
|
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Silver Point, TN | Tank has been removed, supported tank with floor jack, cut three tabs, removed outer housing, tank drops right out. I have basically destroyed top of filler neck, I doubt a gas cap would thread on at this point. For future reference I would cut tabs and weld them back on. Prying just wasn't cutting it.
(tank2.jpg)
(filler2.jpg)
(gasket3.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- tank2.jpg (73KB - 188 downloads) filler2.jpg (174KB - 197 downloads) gasket3.jpg (239KB - 183 downloads)
|
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 309
Location: Western Colorado | dmacTN; Were you able to get the neck out of the tank? Are the parts I sent you correct?
Bob |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Silver Point, TN | Rebel,
Yes, the filler neck has been removed from the tank, very rusted tight to the rubber gasket, I carefully cut it out with a sawsall, came right out at that point.
The filler neck and filler neck housing from your 58 Chrysler wagon are identical to a 60 Dodge wagon, perfect fit and replacement.
Thank you for the parts and help, moving forward on project. |
|
|
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 9922
Location: Lower Mainland BC | dmacTN - 2018-10-17 7:39 AM
I carefully cut it out with a sawsall
Now there's a brave/skillful man!!
|
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 309
Location: Western Colorado | EXCELLENT!!!
Glad the parts were the same and that we were able to help!
Bob |
|
|