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Elite Veteran
Posts: 689
Location: Winston Salem, N.C. | does the factory service manual list wheel alignment settings? Mine is a 56 Plymouth 4 door station wagon using radial tires.
thank you
Jerry Whitfield
Winston salem NC |
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Expert
Posts: 3777
Location: NorCal |
Yes, for the original tires the '56 Plymouth FSM calls for:
Camber -1/2 to +5/8 degree The left side should be set 1/2 degree greater than the right side.
Caster -2 to 0 degrees
Toe-In 1/8" |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 689
Location: Winston Salem, N.C. | hi
thank you for taking time to reply and give me this information.
I am not using original tires, I am using radials and the 205/75/R15 is what is recommended.
Do you have he specifications for alignment on radial tires (on 56 station wagon)
thank you for your help.
Jerry Whitfield |
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Expert
Posts: 3777
Location: NorCal | I'm no expert, but compare the '56 specs to a more modern car that uses radials as standard equipment. Keep in mind that the '56 adjustment range is pretty limited compared to modern designs.
Edited by 57chizler 2017-07-01 4:39 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3398
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | You need some positive caster with radials, at least 1-2 degrees, the adjustment range on a 56 will not get you there. There are shims made for the lower control arms to achieve expanding the range, old school stuff and you need a sharp alignment shop to handle this. Too long a ride to my shop to handle this for you. Lol
Edited by Shep 2017-07-02 5:44 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 397
Location: Milano, Italy | Hello friends
I wish I could attain a strong return to center of the steering wheel of my '58 Belvie in any situation, and although I have centered the power steering arm then centered the steering linkage and after joined them together, I still have no return of the steering wheel from bends.
I have also increased the caster by adding the shims as I have radials, but still no results.
I wonder if is there a way to obtain a positive return without sacrifying the straight line stability?
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13049
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hi Antonio, below you'll find the values I'm using. Mind that this is for cars with power steering and radial tires
It's the positive caster that will return the wheels to the center (in fact also negative caster will do the same)
CAMBER, NEGATIVE ¼º to ½º
Try with ½º on the left side and ¼º on the right side
CASTER, POSITIVE 2º to 3º (Most probably the camber will go out of specs at a caster over 1,5º)
TOE-IN 1/8”
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Veteran
Posts: 256
Location: Chicago | A late master mechanic friend of mine who lived through the transition recommended zero toe-in when switching to radials. Thoughts? |
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Expert
Posts: 3398
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | With the standard steering linkage some toe in is required, as you pick up speed the wheels tend to try and toe out, due to the suspension geometry and the unavoidable stacked play in the steering linkage. 1/8 should do it with good tight steering components. |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13049
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hypothetically, zero toe in will be toe out when the car is driven and that can also stabilize the car, BUT it will wear the tires more.
Correct setting is 1/8 with good tight steering components as stated above.
With worn components, the 1/8 will be zero or even toe out when the car is driven. |
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Expert
Posts: 1207
Location: Ponder, TX | Great info!
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I'm curious what to use for approximate settings while the entire steering and suspension is being replaced and before it can be taken to a shop, or if there is anything to be gained by even trying?
My '56 has the engine and transmission installed, but no front sheet metal and no interior, so the weight on the wheels is far less than the final configuration.
Edited by GaryS 2018-04-06 5:49 AM
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13049
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | For a very basic set-up that will get you to the alignment shop;
Caster - take notes and measures for to get Close to the original setting when you dismount.
Camber - take a spirit level and hold it vertically on the rim - when you have the bubble in center it's approximately 0 degrees and good enough
Toe-in - measure behind the tires as high up to the center as possible, use a chalk to mark the position - roll the car until the chalk mark is in front and measure to the same reference Point as behind. The measure shall be less by 1/4"
These settings will get you to the alignment shop, but don't drive around with this as the toe-in is too much (1/8" normal) |
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Expert
Posts: 3777
Location: NorCal | For DIY alignment I have one of these, works well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWAe_CdFjJw&t=22s
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Expert
Posts: 1207
Location: Ponder, TX | Thanks for the info, guys! |
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