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Regular
Posts: 66
| My dad just picked up a 57 adventurer. We did some research on plugs and read that the auto lite 65 would be equivalent to the original ar-32 that the manual recommends . These plugs have the 3/4" reach as opposed to the 3/8" reach . I put a few plugs in and there seems to be play with the tube and the plug , almost as if the 3/8" reach would have been correct . Can anyone chime in here on this . Did I get wrong info for the plugs? It's a 345 hemi |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | Autolite
85 Copper Resistor Spark Plug 345cid;OE Style; Replaces 75 .035 Gap
75 Copper Non-Resistor Spark Plug 345cid; .035 Gap
Champion
RJ10Y
RJ11Y
RJ12y |
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Regular
Posts: 66
| Thanks |
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Regular
Posts: 66
| Anyone know where we can get factory style wires? I see a place called mopar mall sells the plug wires new and they look like the originals . Anyone have experience with them?
Edited by 57swept 2017-01-22 6:25 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6503
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MoPar-1955-56-57-58-Chrysler-HEMI-Spark... |
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Regular
Posts: 66
| Thanks but that's a little more than I want to spend . |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 520
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado | You can get close if you roll your own with 7mm black wire, it will let you run the ceramic factory insulators, you just have to crimp it all together. I did this long ago fro my 392, got the kit from napa. |
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Regular
Posts: 66
| Thanks for the info Chrispy |
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Expert
Posts: 1488
Location: New Castle PA | Atlas Obsolete sells them, BUT I'd only buy there if it were the absolute last place on earth. I echo what Chrispy said -- make your own with 7 mm black wires. If you're trying to be correct, the only issue you might have is that the straight cup for #1 cylinder at the distributor should be red. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
Location: Perth Australia | I have found that the crossover listings for plugs are garbage and are written by stupids
Same problem as you had.
Looked up plugs for my 318 poly and ordered them, they were 3/4 reach, not 3/8 as original.
If I didn't have the original plugs (or I hadn't removed them) and had fitted the ones that came, then wound her over, it would have been a very sad day for me, with no recourse
as I gave the number and how do you find the fool that made the cross over charts
Be careful when changing plugs that you know what your getting
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | If you want to make your wire sets be sure to buy a proper crimping tool so that you have secure bonding at the ends. I have been using an MSD #3500 for the last 20-30 years now and it gives a perfect crimp every time. Not sure what the comparable current plier would be..... The copper bits are available from Beldon.
I'll also suggest that you check the resistance of the wire before buying (you'll need 25') so that you aren't stuck with some crap. Try for less that 5000 ohms/lf (wire used in NASCAR is down around 300-500) (some oem has been measured above 20,000.....).
As to spark plugs interchange:
http://www.autolite.com/productfinder?b=A
http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/ |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1141
Location: Blackpool, United Kingdom. | There are some kits available here including the Red plug boot for no1 plug lead, here are the crimping pliers needed?
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=1288 |
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Veteran
Posts: 145
| I've run Champion RJ14YC plugs in mine for several years with good results. Also with the .035 gap. |
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Regular
Posts: 65
| The wire sets on both my 341 hemi's are standard big block type with straight boots.
Just use needle nose pliers to push the boots on the plugs or to wiggle them off.
I feel they fit more snug than the original ceramic tubes. Once the wire covers
are on, no one notices.
Perry |
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