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Location: North Australia | Anyone have experience rebuilding the original RB water pumps? This is the one with the black plastic impeller.
Looks like 2 little lugs on the impeller shoulder which fits onto the shaft. The removal of the impeller looks to be the hard part of the job.
Only want to do this as an exercise and have a road spare in the boot.
Thanks in advance for the help. Sid?
Steve.
Edited by 60 Imp 2014-05-23 7:31 AM
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
IIRC, the plastic impeller can't be reused...it's broken upon disassembly. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7409
Location: northern germany | that is correct. if you want to reuse the oe plastic impeller in a new pump you need to drill out the shaft carefully. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 982
Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | ........
Apart from rebuilding the pump you already have, is this the pump you need for a spare Steve ??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Water-Pump-Chrysler-383-400-413-426-440...
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
The problem with a lot of the replacement BB pumps nowadays is they supply the 6-vane impeller for use on both A/C and non-A/C applications....original non-A/C had the 8-vane impeller. |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | What would be wrong with using the A/c Version? |
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Location: North Australia | The unit out of my car has 10 vanes. Anyhow, looks like I wont rebuild this one. Never seen a replacement impeller so too hard considering the replacement for a new unit. Thanks Van, Sid e.t.c. |
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal | jimntempe - 2014-05-25 10:42 PM
What would be wrong with using the A/c Version?
The 6-vane pump is driven 140% of crankshaft speed (40% overdrive) in order to turn the fan faster, when driven with non-A/C pulleys (95 % of crankshaft speed) it moves less coolant than the 8-vane pump. |
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Expert
Posts: 1506
Location: Colo Spgs | Hola Yo'll
Isn't the driven speed a factor of which Diameter of Pulley is used vs what or how the engine is equipped.
Also because of a different Impeller Diameter the amount of needed energy used for it is the same one for Performance - Industrial - Towing and even A/C Units .
The Original MoPar Performance Books that have Factory Engineering Department Studies on this have this 3.67 inch x6 Water Pump mentioned.
Rodger & Gabby
Colo Spgs |
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Veteran
Posts: 272
Location: Missouri | Has anyone used an aftermarket pump (similar to a Be-Cool) that has a modified impeller implementing a thin disc attached to the back, in effect making it work like a water wheel? I have one on my 440 as I figured it would work a little better than an A/C pump, although after reading a post above wonder if I should use an A/C pulley with it. I was having a heat issue in parades and bottled traffic even though the rad was redone with a 4-row core and I have a fan shroud. Also use a 7-blade stock steel fan and a 160-degree high-flow stat.
Edited by 55coronet440 2014-07-27 12:22 AM
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
The hard part about troubleshooting a low-speed heating problem is knowing whether the problem is coolant flow or air flow related. What is your current pump/pulley configuration? |
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Expert
Posts: 3035
Location: N.W. Fla. | 55coronet440 - 2014-07-26 11:14 PM
Also use a 160-degree high-flow stat. I believe you're supposed to be using a 180-195 thermostat. Also saw that cyl wall wear is 3 X higher with a 160 vs one in the 180 to 195 range, though when I've brought up wear before no one seems too concerned. |
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
The thermostat setting is irrelevant if the system temperature exceeds it...IOW is the system goes to 230°F with a 160° thermostat installed the thermostat isn't the problem.
I always run 160° thermostats and I've never had an engine that would hold that temperature...others might. |
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Veteran
Posts: 272
Location: Missouri | Yes, just to experiment once, I tried a 180 and it did not make a difference. Using single groove pulleys as there is no A/C or power steering; the crank pulley is a little over 6 3/4" and the pump pulley is 6 1/2", with a 1/4" gap between them. Still have the above mentioned aftermarket pump with the disk attached to the impeller but do not know the # of vanes without taking the pump off. It's been in use a long time; but I have to admit that my '55 has not been licensed since Sept. '05 and the 440 last ran in '06. I know, I know, it's hard to believe myself; I'm trying to get it going again, it started with a leaking front wheel cylinder that got me to do the AAJ brake swap, and I suppose I went through most of this time with a lack of interest in getting all these problems fixed. I'm very determined to drive it again, as I'm 64 1/2 and the clock keeps ticking! I don't know what size the A/C pulley is, but maybe it could help. Should also add that I have a pusher fan that I only use in slow traffic & parades; never had a problem on the highways. I just run it when needed off of the 2-speed heater blower switch except in winter. |
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Location: North Australia | Harold, time you got keen again and got that old rig running.
steve. |
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Veteran
Posts: 272
Location: Missouri | Steve, I totally agree with that! I'll have to spend less time fixing mowers and get the '55 road ready! |
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Expert
Posts: 2596
Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | I bought this water pump on Ebay a few years ago, nice to have.
Rebuilt by CPR standing it on a sticky note and has 10 wings is this to my 383 RB in 1959?
NR 1853250 2R
Edited by Windsor59 2014-08-13 3:29 PM
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Attachments ---------------- DSC_5119.JPG (109KB - 156 downloads) DSC_5115.JPG (107KB - 163 downloads) DSC_5116.JPG (123KB - 171 downloads) DSC_5117.JPG (153KB - 151 downloads) DSC_5118.JPG (84KB - 164 downloads)
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Location: North Australia | Thanks for the photos. That looks like a cast iron impellor, (the same as a plastic 10 blade job)??
Steve |
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